Looks gorgeous!

ya that is very nice score.
 
Yep new tek-9 icon 3. Works really well would and am very happy with it. Might recommend purchasing the extra bracket but not sure as I have not tried it yet. Currently only have 4 points in my configuration.
https://kingpincooling.co...volta-mounting-bracket
 
well Really I don't think that bracket will work. Its not for what I want to use it for. I will just use the heater when its released but some type of back bracket would be helpful facilitate the extra points and add rigidity to the card. Its pretty bendy and always makes me cringe.

I am surprised how well the KPE Card can run without any PX1 Installed or using the Classified Tool.
A good re-look may help re-think how you are overclocking the KPE. This is not including LN2 Benchmarking.

tt0ne
I understand the cards are not the same and I understand that the layouts of the PCB and where things have been engineered are vastly different. What is NOT different is how cooling works. Instead of beating around the bush or trying to pick the right words to avoid social retardation or to offend anyone the truth of the matter is - the KPE HydroCopper sucks. Furthermore, it's even more evidence of how good a job Tin and Kingpin did with the engineering of the AIO solution. Don't get me wrong, the KPE is an engineering marvel and was worth every penny I paid for it if for nothing else than just the customized software tools that accompany it or the time it saves from having to volt mod other inferior 2080s. But the Hydro Copper Waterblock - for $349 is a huge disappointment. I have both a hydro copper for my 2080 Ti FTW3 Ultra and for my KPE. Never mind the obvious issues with flow restriction or the pros and cons of nickel plated vs no nickel plated and things of that nature - just holding both of them in my hands and just looking at them it's obvious there was a QA issue. The KPE looked like it was made from a fudge machine, the finish is uneven, the copper looked like it still had plastic wrap on it and we won't talk about the broken frame that leaves the LCD hanging off the side that I had to jeri-rig during installation or that my hands being black from touching the area where the inlet and outlet ports are located because it turns out that there is some sort of untreated oil substance that somehow never got removed between the time it was manufactured and when it was packaged up. Based on that is it really inconceivable that maybe - just maybe - the precision and attention to detail needed for something as worthy as the KPE 2080 Ti might just be missing in the Chinese factory that they were  manufactured in? As you all know a few millimeters is all it takes to differentiate great cooling and no cooling.
 
Let me state it another way. I agree - let's not compare the FTW3 and the Kingpin. There is no comparison. The KPE is superior in every way. But surely we can compare HC waterblocks. Sadly, it is my estimation as an owner of both that the FTW3 version is cheaper and yet of much higher quality because just like my KPE 2080 can beat the shiz out of my FTW3 in all benchmarks my HC waterblock on my FTW3 kicks the crap out of my HC waterblock on my KPE when it comes to cooling. And not just by a little.
 
Presuming your screenshot which showed your GPU core at 8C was taken at idle load how can your mem1 which make up the most isolated ICs on the entire board (your mem2 and mem3 are sitting between your core and your power delivery circuitry) possibly be anything other than a few degrees +/- of 8C? I can understand why you might see something like that with the AIO which had focus cooling on the GPU only but not with a full copper waterblock hooked up to a high performance water chiller.
 
If I'm the only person who feels this way then I'm open to correction and am willing to dismiss it as another one of my idiosyncrasies. Again, I want to reiterate that I'm in love with my KPE GPU (and my FTW3 and 13 other evga products of various SKUs), love eVGA as a company. I have a little idol made in TIN's likeness in my living room where people who come to my house have no choice but to bow to it in respect of the engineering gods. Nothing to say about Kingpin - I highly doubt he will ever buy an nVidia product with my name on it. Lots of positivity coming from me - I hope you can all feel it. Nevertheless, the KPE HC Waterblock is a horrible disappointment.

Honestly if I received a waterblock like that, it would go straight back from where I bought it, I've seen alot of posts regarding the low quality and often damaged look of the waterblock and it currently costs THREE TIMES that of a normal waterblock for 2080 Ti here in the UK, I absolutely refuse to pay £360 for such a seemingly low quality product, I'm better off just hooking up a universal one to it and using a chiller, it would cost about the same.

bcavnaugh
I am surprised how well the KPE Card can run without any PX1 Installed or using the Classified Tool.
A good re-look may help re-think how you are overclocking the KPE. This is not including LN2 Benchmarking.

HOF is Down ATM https://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/port+royal+3dmark+score+performance+preset/version+1.0/1+gpu
But I am not using the XOC Bios and have 107xx for PR
But also I am seeing this on all my ALL Scores "Result not found".

This long road trip is a bummer, I'm having benchmark withdraw symptoms. I do have a replacement chiller waiting for me when I get home though. Hopefully it won't be defective like the original one.

tt0ne

808sting
Looks like yours and my score is the top EVGA ID KP boards.  I've been glancing at my OLED for ave load and it hits +460w.  I'm guessing the peaks are well above 500w.  I may connect my Corsair PS Link usb to a separate computer to log 12v load.  I kill all unnecessary background apps/services.

 
You can't know that because when someone uses the XOC BIOS the hardware ID changes to the generic version of the chip.

 
Based on people's posts of their KP scores, the ID shows NVIDIA.  Whereas the KP factory bios shows EVGA, unless there are other settings that mask EVGA ID.  That's my point about the XOC changes the ID to generic NVIDIA, thus the reason for asking.  I'm considering the XOC to play and while keeping the OC bios for general use.  I do not want to remove the thermal protection by using BIOS switch position 3, but wouldn't mind the unrestricted power limits of the XOC.  Is this correct?

 Nice Black -n- Red

Did you pull off the thin film from the OLED and the EVGA Logo?
What Case is this?

Now that its time to get frosty... When I first tested the cpu pot mounting I had the VRM heatsync on it. Obvs it came off at game time.
 

Throw back GPU during  cpu pot mounting test. Guess Ive been a fan of EVGA for a bit...
 
 


 

 

 
Guess Ill sand bag the scores from this session on account of the HOF being down again...
 
speaking of sanding.  Look at this pretty copper IHS I am about to put on a 9900K
 

 

vladdimplr

 
Up and running after switching to dual pump, and the ce 420 from 280, These Noctua 140mm fans are weak, may upgrade to something that can move more air. temps all sub 40c under 1 hour load. Still stuck at 2160/8300 (have not played with the classified tool yet)

Question about your fans in the front.  I notice the second set of fans in the image are set to exhaust.  Is your front setup to exhaust and is there a filter installed in the front?

Zeddivile
HOF #2 Night Raid
https://www.3dmark.com/nr/127027
HOF TimeSpy Extreme Single Card #34 - Highest 9900K score for TSX - But I can do better just testing
https://www.3dmark.com/spy/7497091

So Cool and Frosty

Zeddivile
HOF #2 Night Raid
https://www.3dmark.com/nr/127027
 
HOF TimeSpy Extreme Single Card #34 - Highest 9900K score for TSX - But I can do better just testing
https://www.3dmark.com/spy/7497091
 
 

Congrats mate ... amazing scores, extreme OC at it's finest :) 

dwexpress

dhall243
Im glad im not the only one with Mem1 temps being higher then everything else, Kind of makes me wonder if EK or Bitspower are making a block for the KPE.

When I get home I'm going to be doing some custom thermal pads. I've noticed when I had mine back apart some of the indents where the memory and thermal pads meet and vrms and thermal pads don't seem to be very uniform. Looks to me like some need thicker and some thinner to be more uniform.

Going to do the same after our Moo! Event is over.

You putting on a copper lid? That's what I did on my 7980xe.