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Hot!OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090

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Chabster
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/07 01:29:50 (permalink)
Nereus
push it to the limit



I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.
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redteamgo
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/07 05:56:25 (permalink)
Nereus
redteamgo
Nereus
Where did you get "twice as good" from? Are you basing that on price? The existing GPU block with XL back plate costs about $380. With the double sided block, it's $589, so it's not double the price, as anyone buying the original single block is also going to get the back plate. The new front & back blocks are effectively 2 separate GPU water blocks, so you're buying 'double' the number of GPU blocks, if that's what you mean ...so you can't expect it to be cheap.

The KingPin 3090 was designed for high performance water cooled overclocking (or chilled, or LN2, or even helium apparently), and if you'd done any due diligence you'd know that VRM cooling is an issue with the back side of these GPUs getting really hot. With water cooling, keeping it cooler enables higher clocks, therefore being able to address the high VRM temps with active cooling on the back side of the GPU is going to help run higher overall clocks. Is it going to double the overclock - obviously not. Is it going to enable achieving higher clocks - for sure.. and that is what these cards are for - enthusiasts who really want to push it to the limit.

yes , price was the back of the envelope metric for what I posted. For twice the money I would want twice the performance or thereabouts when considering diminishing returns. Did you get one? I’d love to see a HC vs optimus comparison.
 
e: and just to be clear.  The 1999 hydrocopper kit for the kingpin hybrid from EVGA was ~ $300.  this one is ~ $600.

Twice the money = twice the performance you say? Ok then, on that basis, not having a water block would mean a card with 0MHz clock? Awesome. See the problem with that statement now? ..lol, as I said previously, you're effectively paying for a 2nd GPU block, and the materials and labor and profit margin required to make that block. Nobody else claimed 'twice the performance', and it would seem to be an intentionally obtuse statement. Increased performance certainly, particularly with mem clocks, but until the blocks come out we don't really know exactly how much of a difference it will make.
 
I have not been able to get my hands on either of the 3090 KingPins (AiO or Hydrocopper) although I am on the notify list, but based on the current rate of movement it's going to be near a decade before my name comes up (not kidding), and I refuse to pay scalper prices for one. IF I had been lucky enough to get a KP 3090, I would have got the Optimus block initially, and added the active back cooling block too. Unfortunately I was unable to get onto the product page for a couple of hours at launch/open notify, so I missed out.
 
Comparing with EVGA on price alone - sure; EVGA KP block (p/n 400-HC-1999-B1) is $300. Optimus is $600 and it is effectively 2 blocks. That answers that one.
 
I can appreciate how strongly you want to defend the price point to performance ratio. I want to see some results before I make any determination. If you’re as smart as you’d like to project you’d be doing the same thing. Paying 2x for another 2-3C is a fools game.
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Nereus
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/07 08:42:10 (permalink)
Chabster
Nereus
push it to the limit

I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.

LOL agreed about the expense. A couple of 3090 cards in SLI will almost certainly beat out a single one (yes, even if it's a KP), but that's kind of comparing apples and watermelons...
 

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#33
Nereus
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/07 09:03:59 (permalink)
redteamgo
Nereus
redteamgo
Nereus
Where did you get "twice as good" from? Are you basing that on price? The existing GPU block with XL back plate costs about $380. With the double sided block, it's $589, so it's not double the price, as anyone buying the original single block is also going to get the back plate. The new front & back blocks are effectively 2 separate GPU water blocks, so you're buying 'double' the number of GPU blocks, if that's what you mean ...so you can't expect it to be cheap.

The KingPin 3090 was designed for high performance water cooled overclocking (or chilled, or LN2, or even helium apparently), and if you'd done any due diligence you'd know that VRM cooling is an issue with the back side of these GPUs getting really hot. With water cooling, keeping it cooler enables higher clocks, therefore being able to address the high VRM temps with active cooling on the back side of the GPU is going to help run higher overall clocks. Is it going to double the overclock - obviously not. Is it going to enable achieving higher clocks - for sure.. and that is what these cards are for - enthusiasts who really want to push it to the limit.

yes , price was the back of the envelope metric for what I posted. For twice the money I would want twice the performance or thereabouts when considering diminishing returns. Did you get one? I’d love to see a HC vs optimus comparison.
 
e: and just to be clear.  The 1999 hydrocopper kit for the kingpin hybrid from EVGA was ~ $300.  this one is ~ $600.

Twice the money = twice the performance you say? Ok then, on that basis, not having a water block would mean a card with 0MHz clock? Awesome. See the problem with that statement now? ..lol, as I said previously, you're effectively paying for a 2nd GPU block, and the materials and labor and profit margin required to make that block. Nobody else claimed 'twice the performance', and it would seem to be an intentionally obtuse statement. Increased performance certainly, particularly with mem clocks, but until the blocks come out we don't really know exactly how much of a difference it will make.
 
I have not been able to get my hands on either of the 3090 KingPins (AiO or Hydrocopper) although I am on the notify list, but based on the current rate of movement it's going to be near a decade before my name comes up (not kidding), and I refuse to pay scalper prices for one. IF I had been lucky enough to get a KP 3090, I would have got the Optimus block initially, and added the active back cooling block too. Unfortunately I was unable to get onto the product page for a couple of hours at launch/open notify, so I missed out.
 
Comparing with EVGA on price alone - sure; EVGA KP block (p/n 400-HC-1999-B1) is $300. Optimus is $600 and it is effectively 2 blocks. That answers that one.

I can appreciate how strongly you want to defend the price point to performance ratio. I want to see some results before I make any determination. If you’re as smart as you’d like to project you’d be doing the same thing. Paying 2x for another 2-3C is a fools game.

Oh dear, I'm sorry, it seems I hit a nerve.
 
I'm not trying to defend the price, I've already said I thought it was insanely expensive, I was responding to your comments about double the price should equal double the performance, which came across a little obtuse, and in doing so, I seem to have annoyed you. Given your name is "RedTeamGo" I had to wonder if you were trolling. Chill out man. I agree that $600 to block a single GPU is insanely expensive, however you seem to have overlooked the fact that there are a number of extreme enthusiasts on these forums to whom a 2-3C delta is certainly significant - some of these guys will burn through several CPU and GPU's trying to get higher benchmark scores. I'm not one of them - I've never used LN2 or come close to breaking any 3DMark records, and can't afford to burn through multiple CPU or GPUs, but I am an enthusiast, just not extreme.
 
As far as your snide comment there about projecting; I'm not an expert and never claimed to be one, although there are numerous experts on these forums, but maybe you should read the comment you were responding to again - I specifically said, "Increased performance certainly, particularly with mem clocks, but until the blocks come out we don't really know exactly how much of a difference it will make." ...what part of that did you not understand? You appear to be angry at me while agreeing with me on that point, lmao. Strange.
 
Last but not least, if you think paying so much for a double block is a fool's game, why are you considering it? Really makes no sense does it. It's not a fool's game in everyone's mind - it's an extreme enthusiast's 'game' - for those who can afford it.
 
Again, chill out man - written words can lose some intended context over spoken words, so try not to take it so personally.
 
post edited by Nereus - 2021/08/07 09:08:15

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#34
Clovis559
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/07 09:46:23 (permalink)
Chabster
Nereus
push it to the limit



I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.




Sadly you kinda hit a brick wall. As next to nothing will support nvlink, except 3dmark and some out dated games. And if you were to even check 3dmark scores for multi cards, the scores are not all that impressive. Its more of a top10 list, and an entitled I bought two 3090’s top 90.
most of the scores appear to be hooked right out of the box with no overclocking at all. I have two Kingpin’s and I’m not sure I want to be on that list.
 
I was on the single card Port Royal, recently fell off, and that’s a much harder list to get on. Yet, out of 100 places… not one Founder’s edition made the list.
 
So what are your two air cooled FE’s beating? in Mining?
 
You won’t be popping these temps 🙌🏽

 
And by the numbers, far more  often then not 2x 3090 FE NVLink  in more software, will fall short to a single kingpin with an Optimus waterblock.
#35
Chabster
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/07 11:33:11 (permalink)
Clovis559
You won’t be popping these temps 🙌🏽

 

 
Sir, why do I *need* those temps? Please run phoenixminer and share your best efficiency value over couple hours and hashing speed. Heat does not just disappear. It is either spread by the GPU or by the radiator. If whatever I see does not make the GPU run faster (in terms of the VRAM ofc), the $300 worth backplate is useless waste of money.
 
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Clovis559
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/07 11:56:48 (permalink)
Chabster
Clovis559
You won’t be popping these temps 🙌🏽

 

 
Sir, why do I *need* those temps? Please run phoenixminer and share your best efficiency value over couple hours and hashing speed. Heat does not just disappear. It is either spread by the GPU or by the radiator. If whatever I see does not make the GPU run faster (in terms of the VRAM ofc), the $300 worth backplate is useless waste of money.
 




 I actually have never mined, but the hash rate interests me. Nobody has point me in the right direction. If you could write up a quick start, I would love to check it out see what I can get.
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tps34433
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/07 15:40:30 (permalink)
Chabster
Nereus
push it to the limit



I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.





I had (2) watercooled 2080Ti’s previously. Those (2) 2080Ti’s were 35% faster than my single overclocked 3090 Kingpin in Port Royal benchmark. And that’s about $2,000 dollars. 


^ And I could not wait to get rid of them things. 


So what would I rather have? 



(2) 3090 FE’s?
Or
(1) 3090 Kingpin? 


I would rather have the single faster card. This is a real thing for sure! Your gonna have SLI disabled in Nvidia control panel 98% of the time anyways. So why would you want a hot ass 3090FE single card screaming at you?

I didn’t want two 3090’s. I just wanted a single card that hauls ass, and runs very cool and quiet and overclocks really well.


I don’t get why people hate on these cards so bad.. Hell the 3090 Strix cost more, and it’s air cooled..
 
I know a bad deal.. And the 2080Ti Kingpin was a bad deal. It was like $1000 dollars more expensive then the cheapest evga 2080Ti. Well the 3090KP is less than $500 more expensive than the cheapest evga 3090 and your getting a 360mm AIO, GA102 die binned for 1995Mhz minimum default boost, classified tool, and awesome overclocking support.
 


 
I have nothing against any of the other AIB or FE 3090’s available. But $2,069 bucks for a 3090 Kingpin with a 360MM AIO is an amazing value. Even if your not a overclocker at all. I wish everyone had the opportunity as me. I feel very grateful to have received one.
 


 
As for the Optimus Kingpin water-block, I’m not buying one and I have decided against it. I already have the Kingpin Hydro Copper block.  


 
If someone wants a good value, then I recommend they go buy a PS5 or Series X lol. The PC hardware space isn’t really about getting a bargain.
post edited by tps34433 - 2021/08/07 15:49:57
#38
MackWage
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/07 16:03:51 (permalink)
I hesitate to jump in given the tone in several of these posts but sharing my two cents regardless in case it helps some. 
  • I would 100% always prefer a single card over two in SLI for most of my gaming. 
    • 2 cards typically generates quite more heat and resistance in your case/loop than 1
    • As we all know, the support for NVlink / SLI with regard to gaming is diminishing. If you're not playing a game where the developer specifically worked for NVLINK support, SLI either will not work, or will work with varying degrees of bugginess. 
    • If you are playing faster-paced games like shooters, Ultra Low Latency mode is amazing and cannot be enabled while in SLI (last I checked) 
    • in terms of ongoing management and support of your rig, one less component just makes most things easier :) 
  • In my personal experience of comparing the cooling performance on the FTW3 3090 Ultra, HC vs Optimus, Optimus was hands down the winner. It consistently kept the card (GPU, VRAM, Mem Junction) several to 10 degrees cooler in my workloads. I even tried swapping the thermal pads on the HC with Fuji 17/wk and repasting with KPX and it couldn't keep up. One aspect to consider is the longer gaming sessions as this will always be when better cooling shines as heat is a compounding problem. 
 
As far as the screenshot(s) above on KPE memory temps while mining, I have a high degree of confidence there are other variables at play in your specific circumstance that will not apply to many or most others given those really low temps ... lower than ambient for most people even :) 
#39
dng25
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/08 04:20:07 (permalink)
tps34433
Chabster
Nereus
push it to the limit



I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.





I had (2) watercooled 2080Ti’s previously. Those (2) 2080Ti’s were 35% faster than my single overclocked 3090 Kingpin in Port Royal benchmark. And that’s about $2,000 dollars. 


^ And I could not wait to get rid of them things. 


So what would I rather have? 



(2) 3090 FE’s?
Or
(1) 3090 Kingpin? 


I would rather have the single faster card. This is a real thing for sure! Your gonna have SLI disabled in Nvidia control panel 98% of the time anyways. So why would you want a hot ass 3090FE single card screaming at you?

I didn’t want two 3090’s. I just wanted a single card that hauls ass, and runs very cool and quiet and overclocks really well.


I don’t get why people hate on these cards so bad.. Hell the 3090 Strix cost more, and it’s air cooled..
 
I know a bad deal.. And the 2080Ti Kingpin was a bad deal. It was like $1000 dollars more expensive then the cheapest evga 2080Ti. Well the 3090KP is less than $500 more expensive than the cheapest evga 3090 and your getting a 360mm AIO, GA102 die binned for 1995Mhz minimum default boost, classified tool, and awesome overclocking support.
 


 
I have nothing against any of the other AIB or FE 3090’s available. But $2,069 bucks for a 3090 Kingpin with a 360MM AIO is an amazing value. Even if your not a overclocker at all. I wish everyone had the opportunity as me. I feel very grateful to have received one.
 


 
As for the Optimus Kingpin water-block, I’m not buying one and I have decided against it. I already have the Kingpin Hydro Copper block.  


 
If someone wants a good value, then I recommend they go buy a PS5 or Series X lol. The PC hardware space isn’t really about getting a bargain.


If they were looking for value why even buy a 3090 lmao... It's the least bang for buck card period.
#40
Gotspeed_2000
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/08 12:33:50 (permalink)
The aspect of burning money for nothing is to the individual not to the whole.  It applies to almost everything you buy in life.  Why buy brand A when brand B is half the price...Why buy a ford when you could have bought a kia...etc.  The list goes on and on.  Performance in PCs is definitely a diminishing return expenditure as the higher you want to push the more it's going to cost you and that cost curve is not linear.  It shows a lack of experience or knowledge to point out from a cost perspective how one GPU is better than another.  There are more than just temperature or basic performance variables while there are silicon lottery issues even with the lower cost cards as well.  Someone might get lucky and get the one in a million card that is matched with good components throughout.  If that is you, props to you.  
 
But honestly like dng25 shared, if you bought a Kingpin card or any 3090 AIB card are you really worried about the $300 price difference between the EVGA water block and the Optimus Signature?  The price to performance ratio for a 3090 gpu is really not there and is the extreme.  Some might have concerns as all the only gpu they could get at a decent price might have been a 3090, but if you are open looping your PC and bought a top tier card for your pc in most cases I would think those are the people with funds to expend on their pc that others may not.  For those who already have the EVGA water block the decision is tougher since you already have a solid block and did the custom work to incorporate your block into the system so spending another 600 might be an issue, I know it would be for me that I would have to consider but since I don't have my Kingpin in my loop system yet it's a question that is a whole lot easier for me to decide on.  
 
Next time you see a Ferrari or Lambo owner ask them how they feel about burning all that cash on their car that takes them to from point a to point b just like your car that cost hundreds of thousands less and see what they say.  It's more than likely a similar answer in context to what most Kingpin owners who are buying the $600 Optimus block would say to the same question.  If you can't justify the expense then don't do it, it's up to the end user to justify costs based on their financial situation.  
 
For me, I want a PC that screams performance.  Do I need it?  No.  But I want it and it's what I want to spend money that I have earned on my own and I can choose how to spend it. 
 
To each their own. It's your money and do what you want with it.  
post edited by Gotspeed_2000 - 2021/08/08 12:37:24

Lian Li O11 XL
AMD 5950X - Optimus Foundation CPU Water Block
EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra - Optimus Absolute GPU Water Block
Asus Dark Hero X-570 Mobo
32gb Trident Royal RAM
500gb Nvme primary drive
1tb Nvme secondary drive
1tb SSD drive
EVGA 1200 Watt Supernova PSU
10 Lian Li AL120 fans
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#41
redteamgo
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/08 16:29:24 (permalink)
Gotspeed, agreed.  If I didnt already have the KP HC, I would probably get the fancy optimus block if there were meaningful improvements... because it is a nominal cost increase vs total build.  My new loop you helped me with plus system is about $5k.  With the optimus instead, its probably $5400. 
 
.... so its more like a F1 AMG vs Redbull than grocery getter Kia vs Ferarri IMO LOL
post edited by redteamgo - 2021/08/08 16:30:42
#42
Gotspeed_2000
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/08 19:34:05 (permalink)
Redteamtango,
How is your build going?  I had my PC apart at the end of last week changing out my CPU to the 5950 and all my SL120 fans to the new AL120s.  While I was at it I had to clean out my system after I used the Mystic Cloud fluid from EK and it clogged the cooling fins on my blocks.  For me, I'm not sure what I did wrong with the EK fluid other than there might have been some air trapped in the rads that I didn't force out of the loop which could have helped cause the fluid to break down and get deposited in the cooling fins.  Lesson learned, I'm sticking to clear fluids for now.  

Lian Li O11 XL
AMD 5950X - Optimus Foundation CPU Water Block
EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra - Optimus Absolute GPU Water Block
Asus Dark Hero X-570 Mobo
32gb Trident Royal RAM
500gb Nvme primary drive
1tb Nvme secondary drive
1tb SSD drive
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#43
redteamgo
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/09 18:45:41 (permalink)
Gotspeed, I got my RMA'd kingpin today.
 
All I can say about water cooling is..... one does not simply swap out the video card LOL. 
 
post edited by redteamgo - 2021/08/09 18:48:40
#44
Gotspeed_2000
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/09 19:52:33 (permalink)
It take patience to do it right.  It was nerve racking doing it knowing you have a 2k gpu you are working on.  But if you take your time to take it apart it should be fine.  I just watched a ton of videos of other people doing it to gain insight into various issues or concerns I would see.  Each gpu model and block have their own issues or quirks.  So taking the time to go through them should help if you haven't done it already.  
 
One more thing is that if you have a leak tester, make sure to use it and to leak test your pc without actually powering on the system.  It might sound simple, but in the haste to get your pc back together it is often overlooked with huge implications should a leak occur.  If you have a spare PSU, you can use that to power the pump to leak test the pc.  You just need to block to trick the PSU to power on once you turn on the main switch on the back of the psu.  Also, when filling your loop, to make your pc lean at various angles to help get the air out of the loop easier and more effectively.  
 
If you can do the CPU thermal paste, you should have no issues with the GPU when it comes to that.  
 
Other than that, it should be fun doing the loop.  You did the hard part already by buying all those parts.  The planning to me was the most frustrating part trying to make sure you got the right parts and thinking of how you want your system to be.  Working on pcs for me is like therapy.  I use it as form of expression, I can't afford to modify the car that I would want but this fits within the budget to a certain extent.  
 

 The glare is a bit much, but I sent this picture to a friend who we will be building a pc similar to this.  I'll take another with the glass panel off later.  
 

 This is my sensor panel for my pc.  It takes up almost the entire front glass panel of the O11XL.  I used the center art work and top gauge from another user who shared it but did the rest myself.  I had to reload my operating system because it would not fully function the new CPU and was limiting the performance.  Once I did that the pc really came to life.  The only thing was I spent hours trying to find out why my new cpu wasn't living up to my expectations which including locking up the mobo and requiring to do a mobo bios flash to regain full function and then after the reloading windows realizing that I didn't save the sensor panel version I had been using which caused me to lose about 30% of my work prior.  It ended up being all good as I took the time to set the panel up and was able to monitor each of the 32 threads along with the 16 cores independently.  
 
It was nice seeing it come together though.  I really like the look of the new AL120 fans I changed to.  
 
post edited by Gotspeed_2000 - 2021/08/10 10:15:28

Lian Li O11 XL
AMD 5950X - Optimus Foundation CPU Water Block
EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra - Optimus Absolute GPU Water Block
Asus Dark Hero X-570 Mobo
32gb Trident Royal RAM
500gb Nvme primary drive
1tb Nvme secondary drive
1tb SSD drive
EVGA 1200 Watt Supernova PSU
10 Lian Li AL120 fans
Lian Li Strimmer Kit - 24 pin MOBO and 24 Pin VGA
EK Pump/Res Combo
2 PE Coolstream 360mm Rad/1 SE Coolstream 360mm Rad
Samsung G7 32" Monitor
EVGA Z20 Keyboard
Glorious Model O
#45
Gr3yGhost
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/10 10:13:58 (permalink)
Chabster
Nereus
push it to the limit



I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.



Nobody needs to do any of this.... we all WANT to do this, and if we can afford it, why the hell not?


I ordered my 3080Ti block 2 weeks ago to replace my EKWB block. Ugh the wait is painful


 
#46
Gotspeed_2000
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/10 10:35:26 (permalink)
Gr3yGhost
Chabster
Nereus
push it to the limit



I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.



Nobody needs to do any of this.... we all WANT to do this, and if we can afford it, why the hell not?


I ordered my 3080Ti block 2 weeks ago to replace my EKWB block. Ugh the wait is painful




The waiting is the hard part once you make the commitment.  When you get the box I'm thinking you'll be impressed.  I know I was when mines came it.  You can look at all the pictures, but when you see it in person and feel the weight of it to me it was very impressive.  
 
If I may, the only advice I would give is if possible and your setup allows to vertical mount your GPU once you get this water block in.  It's a chonker once you block the GPU with this and unless you have multiple methods to support the weight it may put a bit of stress on the PCI-E port on your mobo.  If you do the vertical mount, just be sure to get a PCI-E 4.0 cable to support the GPU if you vertical mount kit doesn't come with one.  If you can't get a PCI-E 4.0 cable, you can revert to PCI-E 3.0 in your settings before you do the change and should be fine with that but make sure you do that before you power off your system to start the rebuild process.  You probably know this, but this would be a friendly reminder of this.  

Lian Li O11 XL
AMD 5950X - Optimus Foundation CPU Water Block
EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra - Optimus Absolute GPU Water Block
Asus Dark Hero X-570 Mobo
32gb Trident Royal RAM
500gb Nvme primary drive
1tb Nvme secondary drive
1tb SSD drive
EVGA 1200 Watt Supernova PSU
10 Lian Li AL120 fans
Lian Li Strimmer Kit - 24 pin MOBO and 24 Pin VGA
EK Pump/Res Combo
2 PE Coolstream 360mm Rad/1 SE Coolstream 360mm Rad
Samsung G7 32" Monitor
EVGA Z20 Keyboard
Glorious Model O
#47
rblaes_99
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/10 12:56:23 (permalink)
just ordered the block for one of my kingpins......  


#48
redteamgo
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/11 08:51:45 (permalink)
Gotspeed_2000
It take patience to do it right.  It was nerve racking doing it knowing you have a 2k gpu you are working on.  But if you take your time to take it apart it should be fine.  I just watched a ton of videos of other people doing it to gain insight into various issues or concerns I would see.  Each gpu model and block have their own issues or quirks.  So taking the time to go through them should help if you haven't done it already.  
 
One more thing is that if you have a leak tester, make sure to use it and to leak test your pc without actually powering on the system.  It might sound simple, but in the haste to get your pc back together it is often overlooked with huge implications should a leak occur.  If you have a spare PSU, you can use that to power the pump to leak test the pc.  You just need to block to trick the PSU to power on once you turn on the main switch on the back of the psu.  Also, when filling your loop, to make your pc lean at various angles to help get the air out of the loop easier and more effectively.  
 
If you can do the CPU thermal paste, you should have no issues with the GPU when it comes to that.  
 
Other than that, it should be fun doing the loop.  You did the hard part already by buying all those parts.  The planning to me was the most frustrating part trying to make sure you got the right parts and thinking of how you want your system to be.  Working on pcs for me is like therapy.  I use it as form of expression, I can't afford to modify the car that I would want but this fits within the budget to a certain extent.  
 

 The glare is a bit much, but I sent this picture to a friend who we will be building a pc similar to this.  I'll take another with the glass panel off later.  
 

 This is my sensor panel for my pc.  It takes up almost the entire front glass panel of the O11XL.  I used the center art work and top gauge from another user who shared it but did the rest myself.  I had to reload my operating system because it would not fully function the new CPU and was limiting the performance.  Once I did that the pc really came to life.  The only thing was I spent hours trying to find out why my new cpu wasn't living up to my expectations which including locking up the mobo and requiring to do a mobo bios flash to regain full function and then after the reloading windows realizing that I didn't save the sensor panel version I had been using which caused me to lose about 30% of my work prior.  It ended up being all good as I took the time to set the panel up and was able to monitor each of the 32 threads along with the 16 cores independently.  
 
It was nice seeing it come together though.  I really like the look of the new AL120 fans I changed to.  
 


Build looks amazing.  That front panel must have been a ton of work, it is very impressive.  Did you have that front panel custom made and is it a second screen connected via HDMI on your video card???
 
I also see those temperature gauges........ Are you able to get the loop's water temperature and set your fan profile to use that?  I'm trying to figure out how to do that.... my MB doesn't have an extra temperature 2 pin header so I think I'm stuck with running the pump and fans from the CPU/System1 temp... which is most likely fine but not ideal, especially considering I bought the parts but it seems like I can't use them.  Maybe I'll do another mini ITX system for fun to work in the spare parts in my entertainment center.
 
I couldnt agree more on the loop air pressure testing .  Getting my loop going was actually pretty easy - only because I got the EK air leak tester.  The EK air pump tester made testing the loop a breeze.  If the air tester holds for a few hours, water will be fine just due to molecule size alone.  If I didn't have that, I would have been nervous the first time but now its a pretty easy thing to do.  Unfortunately, I am crushed with my actual job so I won't have time to install the KP HC block til this weekend but I am expecting it to be pretty straight forward .  The other thing I found that was kind of a hassle is that my reservoir size is small relative to the loop size.  one 360 rad, one 240 rad, one 120 rad + all of the blocks.  When filling the loop, it takes probably 8-10 power cycles with tilting ... which inevitably will create a lot of micro bubbles as things get sucked back into the pump.  They all go away in a day or so though.
 
When I got my kingpin RMA 2 days ago, I found that I couldn't get my old 1080TI out of the system the way I did the water cooling hoses.  So I had to break down the loop just to get the old card out and get the new card in for testing.  That was pretty time consuming but I remade it so that I can get the card in and out without an issue.  I also changed some fitting orientations to drain the loop more easily.  Having convenient drain/fill ports is just essential in case of unanticipated maintenence and flushing.  Now, in theory, I could just put my fill line in a bucket and my drain line in a different bucket and easily flush the system at full pump speed.  It still not easy as I am in a compact form factor.  Small form factor always has its own challenges... especially so with water cooling.  Everything has to slot into place "just so" or you will have problems reassembling.  There is very little margin for error, no room for cable extensions.  I can see why people get water cooling fatigue over the years but once I get this setup I don't really tinker unless I'm upgrading :)
 
Your help has been just excellent , thank you again  , when I get the HC block installed I'll share a pic that I'll be proud of!
#49
Gotspeed_2000
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/11 11:11:33 (permalink)
Redteamtango,
It is a second screen setup via HDMI connected through the case to the GPU.  Power for the screen is by micro USB to USB which I had to install an additional USB hub internally due to all the USB ports on the case and the need for the connection for the Lian Li Unifan controller.  The sensor panel background and the primary sensor near the top of the panel are from a user who posted his panel.  I based my panel off his artwork that I used as the center background and that that sensor.  It's pretty much the only things from his panel I used and then added in all the other things I wanted to the panel to get it to work for my set-up.  16 cores and 32 threads later along with the graphs and info added in is what is now displayed on my panel.  Many hours of tinkering got me to what I have now.  The artwork wasn't too bad, what would have killed me was the amount of time for that top gauge cluster if I wanted to custom that as well.  
 
I use the unifan controller to control all fan speeds.  The only fan connected to the MOBO on my setup is the rear case fan.  The rest on controlled by the Lian Li controller using L-Connect 2 for fan speed and RGB.  My pump is run off the PSU with info to the mobo at max speed. 
 
 
What mobo are you using?  I wouldn't mind taking a look to see if I can help figure out how to get your temp info into your mobo if you want.  This is also part of the reason why I went with the unifans in my setup.  I've used them in almost all the builds I do for myself and others.  The connection of their fans limit the number of fan cables running around your case and also the Lian Li hub also limits the number of inputs into your mobo.  Another plus is that the Lian li controller/hub connects via a mobo usb connector which frees up space and time.  It can be connected to be controlled by the mobo, but I find that I'd rather run it off the L-Connect instead in most cases.  The rgb patterns are better with the Lian Li software and it makes it easier to set the fans to speeds you want and the adjustments are easier to get to if you want to change them on the fly.   
 
Which parts do you have left that you would want to have put in your system?  Post a picture of your system and your mobo and lets see if there's a way to figure it out together.  
 
If you are thinking of monitoring your temps and your mobo doesn't have temperature inputs then you could always get an inline temperature sensor.  I have the thermaltake Pacific model between my rads and the GPU.  Its located near the bottom of my loop and that unit can sense coolant temp and flow rate.  Just be sure to position the intake tube properly based on location and water flow direction.  I'm at work right now and I don't remember the brand of the one on top.  I want to say it's a by byskski.  I bought this one first and then wanted the flow rate which that one didn't measure so I had to buy a second one for my needs.  I initially planned to have one of those impeller meters where I had the lower temp sensor but changed my mind and got the second sensor instead.  The two temperature displays info doesn't go to the mobo.  Those are both stand alone units based on how they are setup in my system.  The Thermaltake unit does have the capability to connect to the mobo through a hub by thermaltake and their software, but I didn't want to buy that and run their firmware.  I have a simple temperature plug sensor that I plugged into my res/pump combo that is sending temp readings to the mobo.  On my sensor panel it has a graph to monitor the temperature readings during a certain duration of time so I can see how it is either spiking or staying consistent.  I have those two sensors with displays there just for me to look at to monitor the temp of the coolant as it leaves the CPU and again after passing through 2 rads along with the pump/res combo before it gets the GPU.  
 
It's the little things you learn along the way like the mobo not having the features you might want to support water cooling and the use of the air pressure tester.  I use the EK pressure tester too.  It's a bit pricey at $40 plus just for a tester, but it's worth it if you build enough systems or when you have to rebuild so you have piece of mind of the integrity  of your loop.  Those are the little things that will help you along with the experience you got building your loop and planning your loop order.  You were bettered prepared than many so props to you for spending the time it takes to get things in order before your build.  
 
Custom loops do eat up a ton of space and the more items you put into the loop the more complicated it can get.  Small form factors like you found take even more planning but the experience you got doing your will make it easier moving forward.  Once you get your system setup how you want it, take a seat and enjoy the work you put in.  

Lian Li O11 XL
AMD 5950X - Optimus Foundation CPU Water Block
EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra - Optimus Absolute GPU Water Block
Asus Dark Hero X-570 Mobo
32gb Trident Royal RAM
500gb Nvme primary drive
1tb Nvme secondary drive
1tb SSD drive
EVGA 1200 Watt Supernova PSU
10 Lian Li AL120 fans
Lian Li Strimmer Kit - 24 pin MOBO and 24 Pin VGA
EK Pump/Res Combo
2 PE Coolstream 360mm Rad/1 SE Coolstream 360mm Rad
Samsung G7 32" Monitor
EVGA Z20 Keyboard
Glorious Model O
#50
Zen_Punk
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/11 14:28:24 (permalink)
That is one beautiful looking block.
I will have to seriously think about getting one if and when I get my Kinpgin.
#51
ShawnB420
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/11 20:46:58 (permalink)
People really need to start considering Aquacomputer for fan controlling and monitoring temps. Get yourself a Quadro or Octo and then use Aquasuite to control everything and you'll never use a crappy MB header again. Aquacomputer blows all other options away.
 
Also build your own leak tester instead of giving money to crappy EK. I built mine for like $4. 
#52
redteamgo
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/12 09:52:39 (permalink)
Gotspeed_2000
Redteamtango,
It is a second screen setup via HDMI connected through the case to the GPU.  Power for the screen is by micro USB to USB which I had to install an additional USB hub internally due to all the USB ports on the case and the need for the connection for the Lian Li Unifan controller.  The sensor panel background and the primary sensor near the top of the panel are from a user who posted his panel.  I based my panel off his artwork that I used as the center background and that that sensor.  It's pretty much the only things from his panel I used and then added in all the other things I wanted to the panel to get it to work for my set-up.  16 cores and 32 threads later along with the graphs and info added in is what is now displayed on my panel.  Many hours of tinkering got me to what I have now.  The artwork wasn't too bad, what would have killed me was the amount of time for that top gauge cluster if I wanted to custom that as well.  
 
I use the unifan controller to control all fan speeds.  The only fan connected to the MOBO on my setup is the rear case fan.  The rest on controlled by the Lian Li controller using L-Connect 2 for fan speed and RGB.  My pump is run off the PSU with info to the mobo at max speed. 
 
 
What mobo are you using?  I wouldn't mind taking a look to see if I can help figure out how to get your temp info into your mobo if you want.  This is also part of the reason why I went with the unifans in my setup.  I've used them in almost all the builds I do for myself and others.  The connection of their fans limit the number of fan cables running around your case and also the Lian Li hub also limits the number of inputs into your mobo.  Another plus is that the Lian li controller/hub connects via a mobo usb connector which frees up space and time.  It can be connected to be controlled by the mobo, but I find that I'd rather run it off the L-Connect instead in most cases.  The rgb patterns are better with the Lian Li software and it makes it easier to set the fans to speeds you want and the adjustments are easier to get to if you want to change them on the fly.   
 
Which parts do you have left that you would want to have put in your system?  Post a picture of your system and your mobo and lets see if there's a way to figure it out together.  
 
If you are thinking of monitoring your temps and your mobo doesn't have temperature inputs then you could always get an inline temperature sensor.  I have the thermaltake Pacific model between my rads and the GPU.  Its located near the bottom of my loop and that unit can sense coolant temp and flow rate.  Just be sure to position the intake tube properly based on location and water flow direction.  I'm at work right now and I don't remember the brand of the one on top.  I want to say it's a by byskski.  I bought this one first and then wanted the flow rate which that one didn't measure so I had to buy a second one for my needs.  I initially planned to have one of those impeller meters where I had the lower temp sensor but changed my mind and got the second sensor instead.  The two temperature displays info doesn't go to the mobo.  Those are both stand alone units based on how they are setup in my system.  The Thermaltake unit does have the capability to connect to the mobo through a hub by thermaltake and their software, but I didn't want to buy that and run their firmware.  I have a simple temperature plug sensor that I plugged into my res/pump combo that is sending temp readings to the mobo.  On my sensor panel it has a graph to monitor the temperature readings during a certain duration of time so I can see how it is either spiking or staying consistent.  I have those two sensors with displays there just for me to look at to monitor the temp of the coolant as it leaves the CPU and again after passing through 2 rads along with the pump/res combo before it gets the GPU.  
 
It's the little things you learn along the way like the mobo not having the features you might want to support water cooling and the use of the air pressure tester.  I use the EK pressure tester too.  It's a bit pricey at $40 plus just for a tester, but it's worth it if you build enough systems or when you have to rebuild so you have piece of mind of the integrity  of your loop.  Those are the little things that will help you along with the experience you got building your loop and planning your loop order.  You were bettered prepared than many so props to you for spending the time it takes to get things in order before your build.  
 
Custom loops do eat up a ton of space and the more items you put into the loop the more complicated it can get.  Small form factors like you found take even more planning but the experience you got doing your will make it easier moving forward.  Once you get your system setup how you want it, take a seat and enjoy the work you put in.  


I converted the hybrid to a hydrocopper last night!  Took about 3 hours.. have never done a cooler swap on a card before and tried to use an abundance of caution.  It was a success but I had to remove the 120mm rear exhaust rad.  I could jam it in there but IMO its just too tight against the top rad and the card.  I would have to literally force it in , metal on metal . And even then, the bottom of the rad would be in contact with the 3090 which is not ideal.  Total volume of distilled water / coolant is only 350ml +/- with the 120 rad removed.
 
I have to admit, I was a bit disappointed that there was no RGB downlight in the hydrocopper cooler.  I should have just not bothered with the vertical mount.  That vert mount is a lot of extra work and probably cost me $200 for the PCIe4.0 riser cable and the bracket. I could have used that other D5 pump I bought first and skipped the whole thing but I thought I would have a fancy light to match the rest of the system.  This is why you're supposed to read before you buy.  Oh well.
 
I don't have a port royal score yet but I got 18900 in regular timespy which is quite good I think for only using PX1 sliders:  +144 core, +1200 mem stable, 120% power, LN2 bios..  Ambient temp is 27C in my house as I live in a hot area.
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/64793633
 
The bad news is that running that overclock produces a significant amount of heat LOL and real world gaming causes the CPU temp to sit quite a bit higher than it did when this loop was CPU only.  It goes to show how much of a difference another 360 rad makes in a dual pump custom loop setup  - ie, when the card was still a hybrid and I had 120+240+360 for just CPU...... the good news is that the overclock is completely unnecessary even at 4k ultra.  
 
I have a bitspower temp sensor in the loop to the right of the reservoir.  Its on the T-fitting directly underneath the top rad but on the back side of the fitting where the top rad pipes down to the reservoir inlet.  My board is a Gigabyte Aorus Z590i.  The build used to be an air cooled mITX system... but then I found out that the first queue hit I got was the kingpin hybrid which threw a wrench into things..... $4000ish later here we are LOL.
 


 
 
 
ShawnB420
People really need to start considering Aquacomputer for fan controlling and monitoring temps. Get yourself a Quadro or Octo and then use Aquasuite to control everything and you'll never use a crappy MB header again. Aquacomputer blows all other options away.
 
Also build your own leak tester instead of giving money to crappy EK. I built mine for like $4. 


 
Shawn, thank you for the Aquacomputer suggestion.  I'm new to this so I really just wouldn't know optimal ways yet but I learn fast and appreciate feedback.
post edited by redteamgo - 2021/08/12 10:10:32
#53
bavor
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/14 07:32:52 (permalink)
tps34433
 
The memory modules on these cards are just ridiculously good, and this waterblock would help that so much too.. Most people don’t even realize it (Leaving the dip switches off, and the standard bios, or OC bios. But I’ve personally played Cyberpunk 2077 at +2,050 on my memory. it’s really kinda scary how it just keeps going and goin.


The memory modules aren't consistently good.  One of my Kingpin cards has constant crashes and artifacts with a memory overclock past 900 MHz.  Its actually the lowest memory OC I've been able to achieve on the 10+ 3090 cards I've used so far.  EVGA doesn't guarantee memory overclocks, but having such awful memory overclocking on a top tier overclocking focused card is just absurd.  

Ryzen R9 5950X, EVGA RTX 3090 Kingpin SLI/NVLink, 64 GB DDR4 4000 MHz B-Die, 1TB PCIE 4.0 NVMe SSD, 4TB PICE 3.0 NVMe SSD, 2TB 2.5" SSD, 12TB 7200 RPM HDD, 1500 Watt BeQuiet PSU, Lian-Li O11 Dynamic XL case.
#54
DeathsWhispa
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/14 07:45:09 (permalink)
Clean, surely gotta post a pic of the setup too :D
#55
Nereus
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/14 07:56:59 (permalink)
bavor
tps34433
The memory modules on these cards are just ridiculously good, and this waterblock would help that so much too.. Most people don’t even realize it (Leaving the dip switches off, and the standard bios, or OC bios. But I’ve personally played Cyberpunk 2077 at +2,050 on my memory. it’s really kinda scary how it just keeps going and goin.

The memory modules aren't consistently good.  One of my Kingpin cards has constant crashes and artifacts with a memory overclock past 900 MHz.  Its actually the lowest memory OC I've been able to achieve on the 10+ 3090 cards I've used so far.  EVGA doesn't guarantee memory overclocks, but having such awful memory overclocking on a top tier overclocking focused card is just absurd.  

I'll second that on my 3090 FTW3. First card was black screening so I RMA'ed it. The replacement card (which I have now) clocks better and no black screens, but >900MHz on the memory seems to be where problems start. I have a newly built system as of a few days ago so I'll give it another try over the next few days and see if the new setup has helped.
 

ASSOCIATE CODE CSKKXUT5Q9GVAFR FOR UP TO 10% DISCOUNT ON EVGA.COM PURCHASES! [DETAILS]

  BUILD 1 2   |   MINI-ITX BUILD   |   MODSRIGS $1K WIN   |   HEATWARE

#56
redteamgo
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/14 09:12:26 (permalink)
Nereus
bavor
tps34433
The memory modules on these cards are just ridiculously good, and this waterblock would help that so much too.. Most people don’t even realize it (Leaving the dip switches off, and the standard bios, or OC bios. But I’ve personally played Cyberpunk 2077 at +2,050 on my memory. it’s really kinda scary how it just keeps going and goin.

The memory modules aren't consistently good.  One of my Kingpin cards has constant crashes and artifacts with a memory overclock past 900 MHz.  Its actually the lowest memory OC I've been able to achieve on the 10+ 3090 cards I've used so far.  EVGA doesn't guarantee memory overclocks, but having such awful memory overclocking on a top tier overclocking focused card is just absurd.  

I'll second that on my 3090 FTW3. First card was black screening so I RMA'ed it. The replacement card (which I have now) clocks better and no black screens, but >900MHz on the memory seems to be where problems start. I have a newly built system as of a few days ago so I'll give it another try over the next few days and see if the new setup has helped.
 


+2000 is the best I've ever heard of, that is atypical for non-test bench conditions


#57
Zen_Punk
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/15 10:22:31 (permalink)
I don’t even have the Kingpin yet, but ordered this block in anticipation.
#58
pmclean
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/16 12:45:34 (permalink)
redteamgo
Nereus

Where did you get "twice as good" from? Are you basing that on price? The existing GPU block with XL back plate costs about $380. With the double sided block, it's $589, so it's not double the price, as anyone buying the original single block is also going to get the back plate. The new front & back blocks are effectively 2 separate GPU water blocks, so you're buying 'double' the number of GPU blocks, if that's what you mean ...so you can't expect it to be cheap.

The KingPin 3090 was designed for high performance water cooled overclocking (or chilled, or LN2, or even helium apparently), and if you'd done any due diligence you'd know that VRM cooling is an issue with the back side of these GPUs getting really hot. With water cooling, keeping it cooler enables higher clocks, therefore being able to address the high VRM temps with active cooling on the back side of the GPU is going to help run higher overall clocks. Is it going to double the overclock - obviously not. Is it going to enable achieving higher clocks - for sure.. and that is what these cards are for - enthusiasts who really want to push it to the limit.



yes , price was the back of the envelope metric for what I posted. For twice the money I would want twice the performance or thereabouts when considering diminishing returns. Did you get one? I’d love to see a HC vs optimus comparison.
 
e: and just to be clear.  The 1999 hydrocopper kit for the kingpin hybrid from EVGA was ~ $300.  this one is ~ $600.




If you want twice the performance for twice the money, you obviously do not own a 3090. I don't understand why you're posting in this thread.

My current build is a direct die w/Grizzly LM 10900KF w/Optimus V2 Sig Block on an ASUS Maximus XII Apex, 32 GB 4000MT/s Cl 15 G.Skill Trident Z Royal RAM, EVGA RTX 3090 KingPin Hyrbid, EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra w/Optimus Absolute WaterBlock, EVGA 1600 Watt PSU, 2 x Corsair MP510 960GB M.2 RAID0, 2 x WD Blue 1 TB SSD RAID0, 2 x 6TB WD Red Pro 7200RPM HDD RAID0, EVGA Nu Audio Card, Lian Li Strimer Plus 3x8 Pin & 24 Pin, Corsair 7000D White Case, 7 x Lian Li SL140 Fans, Samsung 55" QN90A,  Samsung c49RG9 Ultrawide Monitor, HyperX Cloud Orbit Headphones, Sony AV Reciever STR-DN 1080, KEF Q Series 5.1 Speakers, SteelSeries Rival 600 Mouse, SteelSeries Apex Pro KB, Corsair MM300 XL & MM350 XL Gaming Mouse Pad, Vartan Gaming Chair, APC Back UPS PRO BR 1350VA, MO-RA3 420 w/ 2x WCP D5's
 
#59
pmclean
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Re: OPTIMUS SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 2021/08/16 12:52:56 (permalink)
Chabster
tps34433
First of all. 90C is hot lol. Hot to me anyways! What is your memory Tjunction temp?
'
 
It is always fun how a $1500 FE can make people raise eyebrows and embarrass $2300+ MSRP GPUs, I provided TJ temp already.
 
Eth speed: 125.794 MH/s, shares: 8373/0/0, time: 79:59
Available GPUs for mining: GPU1: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 (pcie 11), CUDA cap. 8.6, 24 GB VRAM, 82 CUs
GPU1: 49C 65% 301W
GPU1: cclock 1140 MHz, cvddc 731 mV, mclock 11001 MHz, Tj 63C, Tmem 80C, p-state P2, pcap power, 418 kH/J
 
Fan at 65%, ambient 26c, VRAM 80c.
 
You said "The cooler is runs the better!", may I ask what does "better" mean? Higher hash rate? Higher efficiency? You sleep better?




 
If those number are true, it's the only FE in the entire world performing so cool with such low power/high hashrate. With regard to 3090 FE's you are the luckiest person in the whole entire world you should be very happy.

My current build is a direct die w/Grizzly LM 10900KF w/Optimus V2 Sig Block on an ASUS Maximus XII Apex, 32 GB 4000MT/s Cl 15 G.Skill Trident Z Royal RAM, EVGA RTX 3090 KingPin Hyrbid, EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra w/Optimus Absolute WaterBlock, EVGA 1600 Watt PSU, 2 x Corsair MP510 960GB M.2 RAID0, 2 x WD Blue 1 TB SSD RAID0, 2 x 6TB WD Red Pro 7200RPM HDD RAID0, EVGA Nu Audio Card, Lian Li Strimer Plus 3x8 Pin & 24 Pin, Corsair 7000D White Case, 7 x Lian Li SL140 Fans, Samsung 55" QN90A,  Samsung c49RG9 Ultrawide Monitor, HyperX Cloud Orbit Headphones, Sony AV Reciever STR-DN 1080, KEF Q Series 5.1 Speakers, SteelSeries Rival 600 Mouse, SteelSeries Apex Pro KB, Corsair MM300 XL & MM350 XL Gaming Mouse Pad, Vartan Gaming Chair, APC Back UPS PRO BR 1350VA, MO-RA3 420 w/ 2x WCP D5's
 
#60
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