Nereus
push it to the limit

Chabster

Nereus
push it to the limit

I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.

Chabster

Nereus
push it to the limit

I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.

Chabster

Clovis559
You won’t be popping these temps 🙌🏽

 

 
Sir, why do I *need* those temps? Please run phoenixminer and share your best efficiency value over couple hours and hashing speed. Heat does not just disappear. It is either spread by the GPU or by the radiator. If whatever I see does not make the GPU run faster (in terms of the VRAM ofc), the $300 worth backplate is useless waste of money.
 

• I would 100% always prefer a single card over two in SLI for most of my gaming. 
  • 2 cards typically generates quite more heat and resistance in your case/loop than 1
  • As we all know, the support for NVlink / SLI with regard to gaming is diminishing. If you're not playing a game where the developer specifically worked for NVLINK support, SLI either will not work, or will work with varying degrees of bugginess. 
  • If you are playing faster-paced games like shooters, Ultra Low Latency mode is amazing and cannot be enabled while in SLI (last I checked) 
  • in terms of ongoing management and support of your rig, one less component just makes most things easier :) 
• In my personal experience of comparing the cooling performance on the FTW3 3090 Ultra, HC vs Optimus, Optimus was hands down the winner. It consistently kept the card (GPU, VRAM, Mem Junction) several to 10 degrees cooler in my workloads. I even tried swapping the thermal pads on the HC with Fuji 17/wk and repasting with KPX and it couldn't keep up. One aspect to consider is the longer gaming sessions as this will always be when better cooling shines as heat is a compounding problem. 

Gr3yGhost

Chabster

Nereus
push it to the limit

I think the only thing pushed to the limit is the balance on the credit cards. $3000 worth 2x air cooled 3090 FE will beat the hell out of optimus waterblocked KINGPIN. People keep finding new ways of burning money for nothing.

Nobody needs to do any of this.... we all WANT to do this, and if we can afford it, why the hell not?


I ordered my 3080Ti block 2 weeks ago to replace my EKWB block. Ugh the wait is painful

Gotspeed_2000
It take patience to do it right.  It was nerve racking doing it knowing you have a 2k gpu you are working on.  But if you take your time to take it apart it should be fine.  I just watched a ton of videos of other people doing it to gain insight into various issues or concerns I would see.  Each gpu model and block have their own issues or quirks.  So taking the time to go through them should help if you haven't done it already.  
 
One more thing is that if you have a leak tester, make sure to use it and to leak test your pc without actually powering on the system.  It might sound simple, but in the haste to get your pc back together it is often overlooked with huge implications should a leak occur.  If you have a spare PSU, you can use that to power the pump to leak test the pc.  You just need to block to trick the PSU to power on once you turn on the main switch on the back of the psu.  Also, when filling your loop, to make your pc lean at various angles to help get the air out of the loop easier and more effectively.  
 
If you can do the CPU thermal paste, you should have no issues with the GPU when it comes to that.  
 
Other than that, it should be fun doing the loop.  You did the hard part already by buying all those parts.  The planning to me was the most frustrating part trying to make sure you got the right parts and thinking of how you want your system to be.  Working on pcs for me is like therapy.  I use it as form of expression, I can't afford to modify the car that I would want but this fits within the budget to a certain extent.  
 

 The glare is a bit much, but I sent this picture to a friend who we will be building a pc similar to this.  I'll take another with the glass panel off later.  
 

 This is my sensor panel for my pc.  It takes up almost the entire front glass panel of the O11XL.  I used the center art work and top gauge from another user who shared it but did the rest myself.  I had to reload my operating system because it would not fully function the new CPU and was limiting the performance.  Once I did that the pc really came to life.  The only thing was I spent hours trying to find out why my new cpu wasn't living up to my expectations which including locking up the mobo and requiring to do a mobo bios flash to regain full function and then after the reloading windows realizing that I didn't save the sensor panel version I had been using which caused me to lose about 30% of my work prior.  It ended up being all good as I took the time to set the panel up and was able to monitor each of the 32 threads along with the 16 cores independently.  
 
It was nice seeing it come together though.  I really like the look of the new AL120 fans I changed to.  
 

Gotspeed_2000
Redteamtango,
It is a second screen setup via HDMI connected through the case to the GPU.  Power for the screen is by micro USB to USB which I had to install an additional USB hub internally due to all the USB ports on the case and the need for the connection for the Lian Li Unifan controller.  The sensor panel background and the primary sensor near the top of the panel are from a user who posted his panel.  I based my panel off his artwork that I used as the center background and that that sensor.  It's pretty much the only things from his panel I used and then added in all the other things I wanted to the panel to get it to work for my set-up.  16 cores and 32 threads later along with the graphs and info added in is what is now displayed on my panel.  Many hours of tinkering got me to what I have now.  The artwork wasn't too bad, what would have killed me was the amount of time for that top gauge cluster if I wanted to custom that as well.  
 
I use the unifan controller to control all fan speeds.  The only fan connected to the MOBO on my setup is the rear case fan.  The rest on controlled by the Lian Li controller using L-Connect 2 for fan speed and RGB.  My pump is run off the PSU with info to the mobo at max speed. 
 
 
What mobo are you using?  I wouldn't mind taking a look to see if I can help figure out how to get your temp info into your mobo if you want.  This is also part of the reason why I went with the unifans in my setup.  I've used them in almost all the builds I do for myself and others.  The connection of their fans limit the number of fan cables running around your case and also the Lian Li hub also limits the number of inputs into your mobo.  Another plus is that the Lian li controller/hub connects via a mobo usb connector which frees up space and time.  It can be connected to be controlled by the mobo, but I find that I'd rather run it off the L-Connect instead in most cases.  The rgb patterns are better with the Lian Li software and it makes it easier to set the fans to speeds you want and the adjustments are easier to get to if you want to change them on the fly.   
 
Which parts do you have left that you would want to have put in your system?  Post a picture of your system and your mobo and lets see if there's a way to figure it out together.  
 
If you are thinking of monitoring your temps and your mobo doesn't have temperature inputs then you could always get an inline temperature sensor.  I have the thermaltake Pacific model between my rads and the GPU.  Its located near the bottom of my loop and that unit can sense coolant temp and flow rate.  Just be sure to position the intake tube properly based on location and water flow direction.  I'm at work right now and I don't remember the brand of the one on top.  I want to say it's a by byskski.  I bought this one first and then wanted the flow rate which that one didn't measure so I had to buy a second one for my needs.  I initially planned to have one of those impeller meters where I had the lower temp sensor but changed my mind and got the second sensor instead.  The two temperature displays info doesn't go to the mobo.  Those are both stand alone units based on how they are setup in my system.  The Thermaltake unit does have the capability to connect to the mobo through a hub by thermaltake and their software, but I didn't want to buy that and run their firmware.  I have a simple temperature plug sensor that I plugged into my res/pump combo that is sending temp readings to the mobo.  On my sensor panel it has a graph to monitor the temperature readings during a certain duration of time so I can see how it is either spiking or staying consistent.  I have those two sensors with displays there just for me to look at to monitor the temp of the coolant as it leaves the CPU and again after passing through 2 rads along with the pump/res combo before it gets the GPU.  
 
It's the little things you learn along the way like the mobo not having the features you might want to support water cooling and the use of the air pressure tester.  I use the EK pressure tester too.  It's a bit pricey at $40 plus just for a tester, but it's worth it if you build enough systems or when you have to rebuild so you have piece of mind of the integrity  of your loop.  Those are the little things that will help you along with the experience you got building your loop and planning your loop order.  You were bettered prepared than many so props to you for spending the time it takes to get things in order before your build.  
 
Custom loops do eat up a ton of space and the more items you put into the loop the more complicated it can get.  Small form factors like you found take even more planning but the experience you got doing your will make it easier moving forward.  Once you get your system setup how you want it, take a seat and enjoy the work you put in.  

ShawnB420
People really need to start considering Aquacomputer for fan controlling and monitoring temps. Get yourself a Quadro or Octo and then use Aquasuite to control everything and you'll never use a crappy MB header again. Aquacomputer blows all other options away.
 
Also build your own leak tester instead of giving money to crappy EK. I built mine for like $4. 

Nereus

bavor

tps34433
The memory modules on these cards are just ridiculously good, and this waterblock would help that so much too.. Most people don’t even realize it (Leaving the dip switches off, and the standard bios, or OC bios. But I’ve personally played Cyberpunk 2077 at +2,050 on my memory. it’s really kinda scary how it just keeps going and goin.

The memory modules aren't consistently good.  One of my Kingpin cards has constant crashes and artifacts with a memory overclock past 900 MHz.  Its actually the lowest memory OC I've been able to achieve on the 10+ 3090 cards I've used so far.  EVGA doesn't guarantee memory overclocks, but having such awful memory overclocking on a top tier overclocking focused card is just absurd.  

I'll second that on my 3090 FTW3. First card was black screening so I RMA'ed it. The replacement card (which I have now) clocks better and no black screens, but >900MHz on the memory seems to be where problems start. I have a newly built system as of a few days ago so I'll give it another try over the next few days and see if the new setup has helped.
 

redteamgo

Nereus

Where did you get "twice as good" from? Are you basing that on price? The existing GPU block with XL back plate costs about $380. With the double sided block, it's $589, so it's not double the price, as anyone buying the original single block is also going to get the back plate. The new front & back blocks are effectively 2 separate GPU water blocks, so you're buying 'double' the number of GPU blocks, if that's what you mean ...so you can't expect it to be cheap.

The KingPin 3090 was designed for high performance water cooled overclocking (or chilled, or LN2, or even helium apparently), and if you'd done any due diligence you'd know that VRM cooling is an issue with the back side of these GPUs getting really hot. With water cooling, keeping it cooler enables higher clocks, therefore being able to address the high VRM temps with active cooling on the back side of the GPU is going to help run higher overall clocks. Is it going to double the overclock - obviously not. Is it going to enable achieving higher clocks - for sure.. and that is what these cards are for - enthusiasts who really want to push it to the limit.

yes , price was the back of the envelope metric for what I posted. For twice the money I would want twice the performance or thereabouts when considering diminishing returns. Did you get one? I’d love to see a HC vs optimus comparison.
 
e: and just to be clear.  The 1999 hydrocopper kit for the kingpin hybrid from EVGA was ~ $300.  this one is ~ $600.