This is my idea currently with 4 misters. Since the nozzles would just be a foot or two above the pump, the PSI required to get the small droplets wont nearly be as high as if it were 7 feet. Only problem might be that the heat would build up too quickly. The 80mm fan would take the water vapor and push it towards that small res, where it would condense back to liquid form. Only the cooler liquid would be allowed to return to the main reservoir since the warmer water (if it is indeed significantly warmer) is higher than what connects the two reservoirs. The 120mm fan would cool the tiny water droplets instantly back to room temp since they are so small. The red thing is an air intake filter from a car. This would 'Seal' the chamber to a very high level, which would mean no frequent fill ups.

You probably wouldnt see sub ambient temps with this, but you would keep the liquid at room level at a fraction of the space required. It would take quite a bit more work\tools\skill to make however.

I think what I said would work.
I dont know how to save a picture of what I am trying to say to you tho.

ok. so. you guys know you can water cool a computer with a rad right.
you run the water from computer in rad, have a fan blow through the rad to cool the water

Its what I am running (mind you. I am running a dodge truck rad 4 core. its over 3 feet long)

So heres my idea.


you run your bong right. and lets just say your bong  has an intake port where you throw your 120mm fan to blow air through the bong at the bottom. and then you have a exit port at say the top of your rad with a 120mm fan blowing the air outside of the bong.

you guys are pretty much doing this now. fan blowing in, fan blowing out. only problem is your loosing too much water with the fan blowing out of the bong.

My idea would be, the fan that blows out of the bong, would instead of blowing out the air out into your room, it would instead blow the air out into a hose (air dryer hose whatever) into a rad. the rad would not have water inside it. it would just have air. (air from the bong)

and then on the exit hole of the rad, you would have your air dryer hose or whatever you want that would feed back into the bong intake  120mm fan. makeing a closed loop for the air of your bong

Your making 2 closed loops. 1 is your water from your water cooled computer which travels from the top of the bong to the bottom. and the second loop is the air from the bong intake to the rad back to the bong


Now to cool the air running through the rad you put a few fans blowing through the rad on the outside of the rad as you would normally do if you where water cooling the rad.


that would work. turbo inter coolers run air inside a rad and have outside air blow through the rad to cool the air down inside the rad
if I could send a picture it would make more sense but really u guys should be able to figure out what I am saying now.

Well, an intercooler has larger tubes and less bends in it than a standard radiator.  A standard radiator would provide much more of a restriction of air flow through it than an intercooler would.  Either way, cool idea.  This would virtually eliminate the issue of water evaporation and humidifier effect.

darrell262

Well we arn't trying to drop as much heat off as a turbo system would so I think it would be fine for this idea. and we don't need as much air flow through the rad because we arnt feeding a motor with its intake from this, so it doesnt have to travel really fast. we are just re circulating the air through the bong. I think it would work. Heck I am going to try to build this and see. (probley in the next 2-3 months when money permits

It's a really good idea because it completely isolates the atmosphere in the cooler from the atmosphere in the room.  Virtuall no water evaporation will occur.  The only water which will evaporate is what leaks out of joints and such -- which should be unmeasurable.
 
The other nice thing about it is that you won't have to worry about the water becoming dirty nearly as fast.  You don't have the issue of dust building up in the water and having it turn all muddy.  Oh, and it should be quieter.
 
I really like it.  I want to see some pictures of it finished.

You'll definately want the radiator/intercooler above the point where air returns back to the computer and the outlet below the inlet so that water which does condense in the radiator/intercooler freely runs back into the reservoir.  Otherwise, the condensed water will pool up until the point that it obstructs the flow of air.
 

 
The one issue I see with this is that the air inside the cooler will become saturated with humidity and may reach a point that the basic method of its operation no longer functions since water will no longer be able to evaporate into the air which is already super saturated with moisture.  There is only one way to find out though.
 
You might have to place the fan above the intercooler so that the air going through it is only saturated with moisture instead of below the intercooler where there will actually be large droplets of water potentially going through the fan.  Or else, you could make a S-trap (like a sink drain) where the water would pool and then have the water which pools run down to the reservoir (like Nate's dryer hose idea) seperate from the air so that only air goes through the fan, not water.

Here is a modification which has a drain hose going down the reservoir so that the fan doesn't have to process water.

The issue is evaporation.  Will the intercooler/radiator cause enough water to condense?  If the air blowing through the water mist isn't dry enough, evaporation and cooling won't take place.
 
If the intercooler/radiator is not effective at removing a large extent of the moisture in the air, the air circulating around the cooler will be too humid and will cause the required evaporation not to occur.  In that case, you would only have a huge water cooling kit.  So, you'll definately want a big heat exchanger and do whatever you can to most effectively remove the moisture from the air.
 
I was thinking that the bottom fitting should not be a "Y" fitting in this instance.  Instead, it should be a "T" fitting.  A "T" fitting would allow the air to flow less restricted and would cause the elbows required to all be 90 degree instead of needing one funky 135 degree elbow.
 
EDIT:  One thing I noticed working against this idea is that the higher and lower pressure side of the loop are in the wrong places.  Optimally, the cooling tower should be in the low pressure side.  It is sort of backwards as it is right now.
 
"What do you mean, 'pressure'?"  So, yes, it is only a low pressure fan.  But there will be a pressure difference before and after the heat exchanger none-the-less.  And you need to take advantage of any efficiency you can because this isn't very efficient to start with.
 

 
Since the air would only be humid and not containing a measureable amount of solid water at the top, I think the fan would be fine up there.

Tygers MSPaint-fu.... is that of a wise warrior.  You would certainly have to BOLT your bong to to a wooden floor plate cause that sucker would NOT stand up with an intercooler on it, but it sure would be sweet.\

Darrel... post as many pictures as humanly possible here.  I would LOVE to see this intercooled bong!


Here are the pro's and con's to "traditional" bongs:

pro's: 
sub ambiet liquid.
"inexpensive" (the NON-intercooled models)
low operating costs (compared to a chiller)
tremendous capicity to remove heat.

con's:
humidity in the air
consumes water
requires a killer pump

This is just off the top of my head.  The pump in an un-avoidable expense, so I can't quite consider it a con, but pumps aren't cheap.  As for the humidity, if we vent the bong outside a window with dryer duct, then that nips that in the but, but then the consumption of water is more challenging.  Water is cheap, and easily avaiable.  It sounds like your intercooler idea would nip everything in the butt.  You certainly have my attention.  You guys can post as many pictures, or builds here as you like.  Maybe I can convince a mod to make this a sticky bong-err... evaporative cooling thread.

TWSS69

just wondering ,

what shower heads do you guys use for this?

ive seen some at lowes but they all have really low GPM limits way below the ~350GPM of the mcp655

The MCP655 isn't 320GPM, it is ~ 317 GPH.  (Gallons per Hour)  That is only ~ 5.3GPM.  You might have to settle for a shower head which is only 2-3 GPM though since a large shower head may not fit and may not provide a fine enough spray pattern.
 
^This is all by the seat of my pants.  No experience.
 
Nate: http://forums.evga.com/fb.ashx?m=129939
Post 39.

Well, I got my tower together, but the water is just trickling out of the shower head. Not sure if it is airlock or if I didn't prime the pump good enough.
Any tips on priming a pump etc?

how tall is your tower cade?
what diameter tubing are you using?

if there is no "head" listing for the pump, guugle up the model # and you should be able to find a decent spec sheet listing the ratings of lift in feet vs pipe diameter.

As for priming, you could tilt the assembly to a 45 degree angle till you see a steady stream flowing (no air).
doing this you may also find  the lift capacity of the pump (approx)

I am using a 5 foot pipe. With the Y base it is a little over 6 feet. The pump I am using now is a pond pump submerged in my reservoir. It is rated to put out 375 GPH at a height of 7 feet. When I first fired system up yesterday with the 655 pump my temps were around 20 degrees C. Around or slightly below ambient. Nice. I don't know exactly what happened. My idle temps now are in the mid 30s which I can do with air(1.3 volts). I have my tower setup just like Nateman's. Only difference seems to be the way I attached the shower head. I used a plastic half inch adapter coming out of the head. I then glued a section of pvc pipe to that then made the U shaped bend at the top using curved pieces of pvc. Where the assembly points back down the tower I came out with a half inch pvc barb glued into the bend. The hose is clamped onto that and goes to the water block. I am using half inch ID hose, primochill. I suspect airlock but don't really know how to effectively deal with it. I used a good bit of extra hose so I could move my case around independant of the tower and res, so I'm not sure how I can pull off tilting everything 45 degrees. The tower yes, but the extra hose has its own thing going own. Maybe too much hose? I am going to take apart the water block tonite, if I can find the tool, and check and make sure debris hasn't clogged in there.

First off... TAKE SOME PICS!!

second.. TAKE MORE PICS!!    seriously, we wanna seeeee!

ok, one thing that I noticed goes a long way is CPU mount.  Is your block crooked?  is the board warped, are you using standoffs?  I wouldn't imagine air would be a problem, the water would just fill in and displace the majority of the air. 

OK, YOU are starting to worry me!!  If the feds see that thing, they are going to think you are building an ICBM or something?!

str1d3r

It looks very similar to a burner can from a turbine engine.