kanth1991
Heya everyone, I just got a Hybrid KPE but sadly my whole build is based on custom loop.... Any one know anything about the Wateblocks ?
Its sad that the Waterblocks are so few and i dont understand why they have the block so limited since it aint electronic related 🙄🙄🙄

 
There is currently a queue for the KPE Hydro Copper waterblocks, unfortunately I don't have a link to the thread or to the product page but I'm sure you can manage.

degenerate

kanth1991
Heya everyone, I just got a Hybrid KPE but sadly my whole build is based on custom loop.... Any one know anything about the Wateblocks ?
Its sad that the Waterblocks are so few and i dont understand why they have the block so limited since it aint electronic related 🙄🙄🙄

 
There is currently a queue for the KPE Hydro Copper waterblocks, unfortunately I don't have a link to the thread or to the product page but I'm sure you can manage.

Sadly, i found it, and its condition its like their GPUs.

Not existing in Europe that i come from
In USA there is a forgoten queue months ago...

fuccons
One rad is enough if I'm just cooling my card for now right? ekwb is telling me to buy two for some reason. I'm assuming I'd want a 2nd rad if I want my cpu in the loop?

Depends the Rads you are using.

I would go with 1x 240 Rad for CPU and 1 x 240 for GPU,
IF they are High end and you aim for insane OC, i would maybe go 360 on both

sorti

theberg13
I know this card is meant for pure beastliness but curious what you all think the smallest case that could take advantage of this and not suffocate with thermals?

I did "fit" a kingpin card into a Fractal Design Meshify C case. I had to remove the front mesh, front mount the radiator, and move the intake fans to the outside of the case. Then used magnets to keep the mesh on the front of the fans. It ran about 30 C over ambient while gaming. 
 

Do we have a picture of that?I got a meshify2compact,looking for some guide

fuccons
One rad is enough if I'm just cooling my card for now right? ekwb is telling me to buy two for some reason. I'm assuming I'd want a 2nd rad if I want my cpu in the loop?

I went with 7 rads just to be safe 

Ordered Arctic P12 and have the NF-a12x25 in my cart if needed, which do you prefer

degenerate

kraade
Ordered Arctic P12 and have the NF-a12x25 in my cart if needed, which do you prefer

Can't go wrong with either. Noctua's have better build quality/longevity/warranty/accessories and you pay for that but performance-wise they're almost equals.

That is cool, I don't have a problem with spending the money, (hence a KPE purchase) but I will try the Artic first because a 5 pack was 42$ and the Noctua, I would have to hit with some hot rod black rattle can paint, that color, ugly...

andi0139
I think i might have gotten the worst kingpin ever, not possible to do more than +115 on core and +800 memory, and i put memory higher to 900 or 1000 i get artifacts and strange colours + timespycrashing. **** what can be wrong here ?

My Kingpin Hybrid was like that.  I couldn't get past +900 on the VRAM.  I had the Hydro Copper kit and decided to put on the hydro copper kit to see if it made a difference.  Two things I noticed during disassembly:

• The 4 screws around the GPU were sort of loose compared to most other 3090s I disassembled to put on water blocks.
• Some of the VRAM thermal pads didn't fully cover the VRAM chips and one of the VRAM chips had 1/4 of the chip not covered by a thermal pad or thermal material.

 
After putting on the Hydro Copper block and making sure all the thermal pads were properly placed, the GPU can be overclocked to +160 to +215 depending on the benchmark and the VRAM can be overclocked to +1215 MHz.  That's with ambient water cooling.  Its still not the +1400 to +1700 VRAM overclock I see some get with their 3090 Kingpin Hybrid or Hydro Copper and ambient cooling, but its a big improvement.
 
Another note, this is my second 3090 Kingpin Hybrid.  The first one displayed an "OVERHEAT" message on the LCD within the first couple hours of use.  The GPU temperature would hit 100C within 90 seconds of turning on the system when the system was idle.  Nothing EVGA tech support suggested fixed the issue.  I assumed the pump died, but maybe the thermal pads and thermal material wasn't placed correctly and the GPU screws weren't tightened fully on that one also?
 
You still get the silicon lottery with Kingpin cards, but the lower end seems a bit higher than the average 3090.  Unfortunately, my 3090 Gaming X Trio with the MSI Suprim BIOS still outperforms the Kingpin with the 520 watt LN2 BIOS in most benchmarks if both cards use stock voltage and their max power limits.  The main advantage of the Kingpin at this point is the ability to change voltages and LLC with the switches or classified tool.

robertdinh
I got my kingpin hybrid a couple days ago and it hits a power limit throttle at least in timespy at around 440w even on ln2 bios.  I heard the dip switches might help with this, which dip switches should I adjust and are any of them a bad idea for 24/7 use?   

Is GPU-Z reporting power limit or is this your assumption because this is where it's maxing out? what are your temps and clock speeds/settings on your runs?

robertdinh
 
I haven't looked at the gpu-z live reporting but I did confirm in gpu-z that it's on the 520w ln2 bios.  It's basically just giving me power limit warning in OSD while running timespy when it hits around 440w, and then it starts slightly downclocking. 
 
I'm not some expert OCer but I do think it would be cool to be able to make use of the 520w power limit and not just see it start downclocking once it hits around 440w, that feels like some sort of behavior from the normal bios that shouldn't exist on the LN2 bios.

You might want to take a look at this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QIoeeUW5oc and compare your results. I would not necessarily believe that you are hitting power limit, that is to say that in the port royal benchmark runs lummi is showing peaks of 460 - which would be consistent with 440's you're seeing. PR/TS may not be pushing the card as hard as you anticipate. Temps may be your issue in regards to downclocking.
 
 
 
 
 
 

someone is going to be extra happy, since EVGA won't let me get a 2nd 3090 KingPin. It's 1 sku per household. I got my notification this morning too, but won't let me purchase it

BIGGZxoxo
someone is going to be extra happy, since EVGA won't let me get a 2nd 3090 KingPin. It's 1 sku per household. I got my notification this morning too, but won't let me purchase it

Was that two of the exact same SKU or two different kingpins as in a Hybrid and Hydro Copper

mtEVOracer
What memory overclocks are you guys getting. I watched some YouTube videos and people are getting 1500+. My kingpin is unstable with any overclock over +150-250. And will artifact at +800. Kinda pissed. My ftw3 ultra 3090 would do +850 on all benchmarks without issue. And +1300 while working in the pit. Contacted EVGA customer service and they said they don't guarantee overclocks......on a $2200 overclocking card lol.

My Kingpin Hybrid starts showing artifacts and crashing with a +900 MHz memory overclock.  Its the worst memory overclock I've had on 10 different 3090 cards that I've tested.  Yer I see all these people getting +1300-+1600 MHz memory overclocks with stock cooling.  How????  Some people said keep pushing higher with the memory OC then it will become stable again, but any 100 MHz increment from +1200 MHz to +1700 MHz just causes hard crashes and reboots.
 
As far as GPU overclocks go, the maximum stable GPU speed in benchmarks on my Kingpin Hybrid is lower than most of the 9 other 3090 cards I've tested.  Its hard to believe that the other 9 are golden samples and silicon lottery winners.  It makes me doubt that EVGA actually bins the Kingpin GPUs or has any higher standards for 3090 Kingpin GPU binning.

I've managed to obtain a Kingpin Hydro Copper (hard work in Europe) and I have a few questions that maybe someone can help me with.

Generally I'm looking forward to setting up the card. I've got a modded 3090FE running at 2250 on chilled water (15850 port royal) and I'd like to pit this monster against it.

I understand that the Classified tool doing the rounds (3.1.4.0) isn't properly compatible with the HC, giving the "Device Not Found" message. However, even with the older 1000w bios flashed onto the card, the Classified tool seems unable to actually change NVDD, FBVDD or MSVDD. The Classified tool loads with 'blank' values when opened and setting sensible values and hitting Apply does not appear to cause any measurable change.

Should Classified 3.1.4.0 not be compatible with the 94.02.38.00.2F 1000w bios even flashed onto the HC card?

I know how annoying it is to have people asking the same questions again and again and I apologise for that. However, references I found to 'emailing Vince' weren't helpful since I don't know his email and it wasn't included in the given posts.

Furthermore, assuming a new Classified tool exists for HC, will that then work on the Hybrid's XOC bios? Because otherwise there would be a Classified HC with no XOC bios to use it on.

Any help appreciated, cheers.

kraade
KPE installed , first run at default was 13995 PR
basic overclock 14667 STILL default bios
flipped the LN switch +135core -1100mem = 15385 ,
is there an explainer before I try the classified tool ?
 

Try to go higher on memory you can probably improve that stock-voltage score even more. Are you on Intel or AMD platform?
 
As for Classified tool stay at or below 1.2 NVVDD, 1.41 FBVDD, 1.1750 MSVDD and you should be perfectly safe to experiment to your hearts content with voltage points within that range to find the sweet spot. Start low and slowly move upward as required.
 
Based on what I know and my own experience if you have a good card you should be able to get great scores well below 1.2 NVVDD and if you have a weaker card you'll probably require 1.16875+ volts just for decent scores. Depends on silicon lottery.