Afterburner

warrior10

Afterburner
I have decided to wait for EVGA's Hydro Copper. 

Liar, i bet you probably have all of your Hardware including even your HDD in an over-soaked fish tank lol.
 
J/k
 
Good luck waiting, because i can't, i've had some bad Gpu's years ago from the reference editions, and i don't OC. :/

My situation is different. I crunch (Fight cancer, look for planets etc.) 27/7. The fan on these FE's require to be at 4200RPM in order to keep the GPU at a steady 72f. That is just to much noise.
 
Having WC'd for 10 years ish now. I just think it is easier to order new fans for the 360RAD and new fittings/tubing this time around than introduce another form of cooling to the system.

Right, but why do you need to wait for the HC? You can watercool a FE right now if you want. 
 
Sincerely curious.

All set up now:

Few points - can't add more than a 100MHz to the core otherwise I crash, bit of a disappointment. I get a load of coilwhine when rendering high frames such as in Heaven etc but in real applications such as gaming I don't.
Lastly, little bit disappointed with EK (although I ordered with OcUK) as my backplate didn't come with a logo...

They must've forgot it at the factory.

TheWizardMan
 
Right, but why do you need to wait for the HC? You can watercool a FE right now if you want. 
 
Sincerely curious.

A couple of reasons.

1. I have had a few unhappy situations with EK's.
2. Even though Koolance is just a quick drive for me to their store/manufacturing facility, I have had a couple product failures.
3. I simply am not liking the look of the HK's for the 1080's.
4. I have had more drama free experiences with th HC's from EVGA. 
5. Most of the blocks I have seen thus far are frankly not that attractive to me. Although I have been looking at Phanteks blocks the last few days... 

 
 

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GTXJackBauer

bcavnaugh
I installed my EK Water Blocks today and I would rate them as only being 98% Compatible with the GTX 1080 Ti FE Graphics Cards.

What's with the 2%?

You asked before I could.. the 2% is probably because they say Titan X, since they are 100% compatible. 1% per Titan X engraving ;-)

Am I close BCav?

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bcavnaugh
My Dry Run Leak Testing
Click on Image Twice for a Larger View.

Beautiful!

Also, I see what you mean now. Ek may have determined, along with nvidia, that they didnt need extra cooling.

bcavnaugh
Thanks,
Someone asked me sometime ago how do you Dry Run being that water is wet.
I do not think it should impact the Cooling as well or I would have not done the second card.
EK Really Sucks because the do not provide the Needed O-Rings (OR 15x1mm Gasket)* for the SLI Block and Not for the EK-FC Terminal BLANK Serial Block. The Black Bar in the Middle of the SLI Block. Also they do not provide any cover for the Center of the Block as well so you need one EK-FC Terminal BLANK Serial another $10 for that.
 
*The install O-Rings are not easy to remove nor put back on.

You mean the oblong orings for the terminals? No, they are not easy to remove and replace at all.. they are all a little pain in the butt.

I tossed my plexi terminals, and picked up all acetal terminals because the plexi cracks fairly easy if you slightly overtighten the plug. Be aware, this isnt common, i had this terminal for 2 years, and this just recently appeared:



You dont need a lot of pressure when tightening the plugs, and I definitely over tightened this one.

Scarlet-Tech

I tossed my plexi terminals, and picked up all acetal terminals because the plexi cracks fairly easy if you slightly overtighten the plug. Be aware, this isnt common, i had this terminal for 2 years, and this just recently appeared:



You dont need a lot of pressure when tightening the plugs, and I definitely over tightened this one.

Reason why I stay away from plexi and acrylic like the plague.

bcavnaugh
I knew someone would ask.
*Nothing to do with the "Titan X Engraving" Mute Point for me. (And I thought Scarlet-Tech Knew me)
What the Arrows are pointing to are covered with a Thermal Pad on the Blower Cooler but 2 are not covered at all with the Water Block and 4 are only half covered AND are not part of the Thermal Pads that come with the EK Water Block that is for the Titan X (Pascal) I did add a strip at the edge to at least cover half the them.
 
Click on Image Twice for a Larger View. The Missing 2%
 
Also remember that there are some other Thermal Pads on the Air Cooler that are NOT part of the water block so compare and add where needed. 3 that I recall, sorry I did not take a photo. Looking for that Photo of the GTX 1080 Ti Card so I can point them out......
 
I did install the EK Back Plates and did add some extra Thermal Pads and note that their is ONE Thermal Pad on the Stock Back Plate as well.

Those caps are not covered even on the 1080Ti blocks that EK is releasing soon. Till the MOSFETs are covered, we are all good. 

bcavnaugh

bloodhawk1989

bcavnaugh
I knew someone would ask.
*Nothing to do with the "Titan X Engraving" Mute Point for me. (And I thought Scarlet-Tech Knew me)
What the Arrows are pointing to are covered with a Thermal Pad on the Blower Cooler but 2 are not covered at all with the Water Block and 4 are only half covered AND are not part of the Thermal Pads that come with the EK Water Block that is for the Titan X (Pascal) I did add a strip at the edge to at least cover half the them.
 
Cck on Image Twice for a Larger View. The Missing 2%
 
Also remember that there are some other Thermal Pads on the Air Cooler that are NOT part of the water block so compare and add where needed. 3 that I recall, sorry I did not take a photo. Looking for that Photo of the GTX 1080 Ti Card so I can point them out......
 
I did install the EK Back Plates and did add some extra Thermal Pads and note that their is ONE Thermal Pad on the Stock Back Plate as well.

Those caps are not covered even on the 1080Ti blocks that EK is releasing soon. Till the MOSFETs are covered, we are all good. 

Maybe so, but they are with the FE Cooler, maybe EK needs to review what they are doing and not only change the name on the Block.

True that. But from the temps that i measured around that area  they dont really get as warm. Only the ones super close to the MOSFETs. Also the pads that NVIDIA has on them are some of the ****tiest pads i have seen lol. They crumble faster than dried chocolate brownies. 
I even dumped EK's pads once i found out they are only 3 W/mK. Replaced em with 11 W/mK fujipoly's.

joder

bloodhawk1989
True that. But from the temps that i measured around that area  they dont really get as warm. Only the ones super close to the MOSFETs. Also the pads that NVIDIA has on them are some of the ****tiest pads i have seen lol. They crumble faster than dried chocolate brownies. 
I even dumped EK's pads once i found out they are only 3 W/mK. Replaced em with 11 W/mK fujipoly's.

How many did you end up needing, what size (thickness and WxH), and where did you get them?

Well i have a pretty retarded collection - http://i.imgur.com/xMIVGXF.jpg (There are more strips at the back of those Modright/FujiPoly packs) (I think i have issues xD)
 
But for the 1080Ti , i used -  
1 x 0.5mm 11 W/mK 60mmx50mm sheet OR 2 x 0.5mm 11 W/mK 100mm x 15mm sheet (for VRAM chips) (The 60mmx50mm sheet was initially for the chokes and to cut a few extra pads for the remaining VRAM chips since a single 100x15mm doesnt cover all of them) 
1 x 1mm 11 W/mK 100 x 15mm sheet ( for Chokes) 
1 x 1mm 11 W/mK 60mmx50mm sheet (for mosfets, cut in 2 x 18mm wide strips and then lines up along their length on the Mosfets).
Also do note that EK included a 0.5mm strip for the chokes, but that made NO contact all with the block, that is why the 1mm. 
 
I got mine from Frozen CPU, but because i usually buy the large sheets. For smaller sheets you can grab them from amazon with either Same day or next day delivery if you are Prime member. 
They are available on PerformancePCS as well, but i couldn't find the sheet sizes i needed.
 
Also if the FujiPoly pads are too expensive for your  taste, you can always grab the Arctic thermal pads for a fraction of the price. They are however 6 W/mK. But that will only matter for the VRMs/MOSFETs. Do note that these will not help you get better over clocks. Just that the clocks are more stable than normal. In certain cases you might get a few Mhz extra.

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bcavnaugh
Thanks

 
Ah my apologies i misunderstood. I really dont have a list per se tbh :(

bcavnaugh

joder
I am a bit hesitant now as their blocks aren't covering everything as someone pointed out earlier.

 
I am running at 2138MHz & 2126MHz Temps with Low Fans 44C with Fans High 38C.

Damn you are freaking lucky to be able to hit those clocks. Mine cant go anywhere over 2050Mhz that too is sometimes unstable. 2038 though is rock solid.