well i was sitting and doing nada so i made this in solidworks
i have the time and material to make 6 complete sets
(12 blocks and caps with nuts and bolts neoprene gasket and sleeve to keep the frost down)
flow/ thermals show it can pump 722watts of heat out of cold plate with quad 240watt TEC's
(warning you will need a quad 120mm rad or more to cool hot plate with a total heat load of 1600watts at max output)
each block is 70mm X 220mm
it will work with any TEC's up-to 4 of them


 
to run quad 240w TEC's your going to need a lot of power 12~15v at 22~25amps PER TEC
performance simulations based on
solo just one hot item
1. Coolgate Quad 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger Radiator (CG480) on hot plate with MCP655 pump and NO rez
2. Coolgate Single 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger Radiator (CG120) after CPU before 2nd MCP655
(i used them because i own them so i can cross check in the real world later)
Air temp 20c
 
hot side loop flow
PUMP=>TEC hot plate=>quad 120mm RAD=>PUMP 
cold side loop fow
PUMP=>TEC cold plate=>CPU=>single 120mm RAD=>PUMP
 
water temp taken just before load
results
with 320watt heat load
water temps (antifreeze MUST BE used)
after 15min 227watt TEC's at 75% of max
water temp -7c cold side (anyone say ICE LOL) (cold plate -10c)
water temp 31c hot side (hot plate 39c)
 
any less then 350watts of heat with TEC's maxed is not going to prevent cold plate from freezing the coolant solid.
can keep water within 8c of freezing point with up to 680watts of heat dumped in
(that's a MAD OC sandy setup with GPU's in cold loop)
 
i have made a PWM controller in eagle based on Ardiuno nano and parts i have on hand
it attempts to keep the water temp above -10c and below 10c when 12v is sensed (turns off when rigs off)
PWM is the best way to drive TEC's as you can get max DT and save power
my math tells me to drive all 4 im going to need a 50,000uf+ cap just before FET array
will have 12bit control (1024 steps in power curve)
if i can find my lcd, i will add it to Ardiuno to see it's read out info and maybe add modes like
gaming (cold but at or above ambient temp to prevent water conden'), benchmarking (maxed out ICE cold),idle 10% of less power,folding (keep water under 38c or something)and so on, still thinking
i might make it a 6 TEC plate (this one is 4 50mmx50mmx2~4mm TEC's max)
each block is 8mm thick, cap is 6mm all but 4 bolt holes in copper blocks are 1mm bigger then then cap (reducing heat transfer to cold plate)
 
I will start building one tomorrow to test it in the real world on my I7 920 at 4.2ghz (920's are the hottest i7)
i can't give cpu temp unless i make a custom cpu block in solidworks and even then it's just casing temps not real core temps.
but i can guess based on water temps that cpu temps at load will be close to zero (32f)
 
see what watching "The Ben Heck Show" can do lol
i will fire up the CnC when i wake up i even ported the Gcode over so i just need to hit start
it will take a LONG time with 0.75mm, 1mm,1.5mm,3mm bits and crazy low cut speed
guessing 6-8hours for one complete set
so tell me what you all think
tell me if you want to buy one complete with TEC's
this can be done with ease but will cost a bit high with copper now days.
total apx 240~325$ with fittings and 245watt TEC's 130~160ish w/o
so let me know
yes my CnC is up and running now redid my steppers and built a new controller.

SolidCam plugin for solidworks
http://www.solidcam.com/
it can do 2D,2.5d (one side then flip for other), and 3D.
it's not the best but it gets the job done.
my CnC PC are both atom D525+ion mini-itx boards with 2gb of ram and windows 7 64bit
 
my 2 DIY CnC's
one is a table top unit 18in x 24in x 6in using 1/2hp router driving custom head.
the other is 4ftX4ftX10in with a 1.5hp a/c motor with 1:3 gear up driving custom head with a custom auto tool changer.
it has a bolt on front that expands to 8ft if needed.
both are build with a wood base and a steel train
run out is 0.003 with 30lbs of lateral force on the big table
0.001 on the small table
both are using 425oz steppers, big table has 2 driving gantry
top cut speed is around 340ipm no load speed is around 425ipm
on small table big table is about 5~10% slower do to size of gantry.
 
i will take my camera back from my sister and take pic's of the first block it's done now
 
if you want to share your SR-2 water block files i can do a lot of good for ya i can even give ya the Gcode. i can cut a lot of wight off the thing and make it cool way better but your going to need to Change bits 2 or 3 times i made blocks for my 470's a ways back i think i made the only True full coverage block for them but they run fine at 1.1ghz core now with Vmodded avg temp is 32~40c at full load not bad for 3way now if only i had a i7 970
 
PM me for more info on SolidCam i can expand my lic and get you a copy and usb key much cheaper then if you buy it.
 
Update:
i made a Crazy CPU Block based on TEC cooling
 


 
REQ a GOOD Quad 120 RAD dual Quads is better with 1/2in id lines
it draws almost 100Amps at 12v
it can chill a 1366 socket CPU with 1.4v Vcore to well below 0deg F (Sim says -28c)
flow rate is 377gph with 1.8psi drop
down side is it will take almost 120 hours non stop to cut on My CnC so i don't plan on building it.
it MUST be wrapped or your PC will gain a lake inside
Back of MoBo must be foamed or use eraser trick
 
center hole is for temp sense but i was think of boring it out, filling 30% with acetone for a heat pipe like effect
the hard part is brazing a cap on it so might try O-rings they use on automotive A/C hell may as well try R502
something to do with the 10lbs tank i have doing nada

How about a GPU Dry Ice/LN2 pot? Basically like a Tek 9 Slim, I would need it to fit dual PCB cards. 

techmasterjoe

what Card what ver i have one i made long ago for dual pcb 295's

 
Yep, 295's. Dual PCBs of course. Compatibility with 9800GX2's and 8800GTX's etc would be awesome. As well as compatibility with new cards like the Radeon 5000/6000 series and GTX 400/500 series. (Also, it would have to be able to fit GTX 260s and 285s.) 

Forget the blocks, take pics of the machine!
Heh

nateman_doo

Forget the blocks, take pics of the machine!
Heh

What Nate said! Wanna see some CNC .

ok i will finish it and post it and Ardiuno code so you can make one Ardiuno is maybe the Easiest way to make a feed back loop like this
and if you use SPI and 2 or 3 Shift Regs + mosfets you can make a Big independent fan and TEC controller
tell me your spec's so i can mod board to work best with your setup
(i find automotive coolant works best with sub zero TEC setups and it's cheep. the red stuff has all the mixed metal protect crap)
 
update:
i found my photos of when i built my table top
 


 


 
got to wait for camera for The big CnC as i never took pic's of it
i only wanted the big CnC not the little one
but the little one Built maybe 80% of the parts for the big one
this thing has a 3/4" solid deck plate i have 2 one wood one high carbon steel both have a 1/4 threaded hole every inch
the wood has brass inserts on the bottom for the threads
i take pic's now but i really don't own a camera i don't even have one on my cell phone
but if she is not back tomorrow i will go and buy a set of HD Web Cams and Stream the CnC decks so people can see what I'm cutting (i might do this anyways make a good add on to my website)

about a week but i spent about a month in solidworks doing stress sims and and refining to make it as stiff as i can with as few parts as i can
i can use my big cnc and make a complete replica of the little on using wood in about 3 hours
(side frames are about 2.5inches thick if done in MDF)
(of course you still need acme screws and hardware)
but i will find my flash drive and post a complete build guide with parts list on here at some point if anyone wants. total cost is about 1k for the little one and about 1.6k for the big one
 
you can buy mini setups (about 20% smaller) for about the same pre-built from china
they don't have the power to cut metal. most have about 1/15 hp motor
i have a 3:1 belt driven head with 2hp motor on my small table and my big table has a 4hp motor direct drive
99% of the time i use the big table for Custom Speaker Boxes as High end Car/home Audio is what i do 1/2 the time
and i got sick of using routers and jigsaws. i have known how to run CnC systems for maybe 10years now so i was like WHY AM I DOING THIS BY HAND then start with solidworks to build a CnC then once built just modded solidworks to build with my CnC
btw i can build a complete MM case in about 3 hours for maybe 1/5 the cost but it's covered in sharp bits and it take maybe 15~30 man hours to knock it all down as unlike them i have to do it by hand lol
i still love my 2 MM cases i will buy more if my check book was not empty

What you're trying and what many try is typical use of a TEC, place the coldside on the source and cool the hot side.  This isn't the only way to use it.
 
May I suggest a more efficient use of TEC, such as a sandwich between two heatsinks?  Not a cascade, I mean to take advantage that the TEC is a heat pump, that if you let a heatsink take some of the load heat away, and make the TEC pump the rest, you get the cooler temperature benefit from the TEC without needing so much wattage.
 
I've done that already, on my graphics card (see ModsRigs and my link below for the math, example 1.4b)-- although I did it with a pair of air coolers that were asymetrical enough to allow the mod. 
 
The equivalent with liquid cooling is a kind of chiller, but with a rad in first loop nearest to the CPU and the second loop solely cooling the TEC sandwiched between two waterblocks.  Either way, the need for a large wattage TEC is literally gone. 
 
Disadvantage is subambient is literally prevented.  But I'm not into condensation protection hassles anyway, I just wanted lower temps than limited by a regular air cooler without needing another PSU.
 
That said, this method can cool a larger wattage TEC that has coldside down.  You get more subambient temperatures per Qmax wattage than just using the coldside down chiller method.
 
It is about efficient use of the solid state heat pump.

post some pic's here of your TEC plate you Can't stack TEC's
a 220watt TEC dumps 440+watts of heat on the hot side
and i DON'T recommend under volting TEC's
your best bet is high freq PWM your giving them max voltage (max TEC efficiency ) but at short pulses to keep temps in range
with a good CAP in the mix this will drop power draw FAR more then under volting.
13 50mm 220watt TEC's cooling the rig on that post will draw around 120~180watts at idle and can ramp up with water temp
and i must warn you 13 50mm TEC's at peek can turn that setup in to a block of ice even at 100% load
and at 25 amps each your going to need 2 or more Extra PSU's just to feed them
your best just using 6 ~ 10 240w TEC's it will still chill that setup
10X 240w is 2400w heat pump but your going to need to chill a 4800~5000watt hot plate i don't think your setup can disperse the heat (that's 5 coffee pots)
you need to flow 682gph at bare min to keep it from boiling off
that's about the same heat load as a honda B16 at 4000rpm
that's a pair of 9X120 RADS in push pull
but yes i can help you with it
What you using to build your models ?
if it's solid works pass me your files and i will do thermal load simulations
 

Interesting...I was hoping to undervolt, but if i maintain full voltage, I would def need less tecs. thanks for putting into perspective the hot side load. how about lower wattage tecs?  I really only need to pull off around 1700 max watts of heat. if i did 12 of the 170 watt ones and used 3 480 rads or a small auto rad used for a small car with an electic 18" fan piped outside for the hotside. would that work? as far as psu, I suppose 2or 4 of those server 24 volts ones was what I had in mind. I obviously have some experimenting to do. going to use an industrial 220 pump i have in the shop for the flow. I think it does 2 gal a min so are you saying i need much higher flow rate? also I really dont want to go much more than 10 degrees or so below ambient. I want to encorporate a humidity sensor of some sort to calculate dew point and set 2-5 degrees above.
 
as far as files, I use inventor, but can export to solidworks. I havnt milled the thing yet. probably wont get the time to mill it for a few weeks. oh, and im not trying to stack. I have 12 inches of plate space.
 
I appreciate the help

Gratuitous

Interesting...I was hoping to undervolt, but if i maintain full voltage, I would def need less tecs. thanks for putting into perspective the hot side load. how about lower wattage tecs?  I really only need to pull off around 1700 max watts of heat. if i did 12 of the 170 watt ones and used 3 480 rads or a small auto rad used for a small car with an electic 18" fan piped outside for the hotside. would that work? as far as psu, I suppose 2or 4 of those server 24 volts ones was what I had in mind. I obviously have some experimenting to do. going to use an industrial 220 pump i have in the shop for the flow. I think it does 2 gal a min so are you saying i need much higher flow rate? also I really dont want to go much more than 10 degrees or so below ambient. I want to encorporate a humidity sensor of some sort to calculate dew point and set 2-5 degrees above.

as far as files, I use inventor, but can export to solidworks. I havnt milled the thing yet. probably wont get the time to mill it for a few weeks. oh, and im not trying to stack. I have 12 inches of plate space.

I appreciate the help

i figured 12" from prospective and i know your not stacking
3400~3800watts is a lot less then 4800w
if you want to export them and pm me a link to you TEC hot and cold plates with tops i can find it's safe BTU levels
3 480's will cool it better then a automotive rad but run them in parallel to get flow up
my math says your pump is to small you need 3 of them and 3/4in id lines
2X MCP-655 will do it (one will most likely be right on the cut off 2 in parallel will be much safer)
 
2gpm x 60 is only 120gph
the larger TEC's with PWM save more power at avg load just watching HD or something lite they will only use about 7~10% of what they can do maxed out
 
humidity sensor and barometric pressure sensors cost like 25~40$ each and i don't have any if i did i add them but if your willing
to spend them cash on them i be glad to help you add them (i have never used them before)
if you want to buy a part list i give you and send it to me i can build is as a drive bay, program it and send it back with all sensors setup and ready to go
your going to need 8-10ga power cable or make bus bars for them TEC's  try to stick to even numbers of TEC's then you can use a 24v psu most AT 24volt PSU's (look for Securty Camera PSU's most are 24v or best Bet is Ham radio shops most Ham radio gear is 24v and draws in 40~150amp range)
my mosfet setup is ground based and voltage cap is mosfet cap around 50v but i can change to high Vr mostfet if you like
i can design a PSU as well as building custom Car Audio Amps and inverters is simple to me but it will not be small
think size 8 shoe box
i have built a few mini ItX psu's in the past for Car PC's
 
my biggest electronics project to date is my 18,400jule rail gun all transistor controlled 5 stage with argon injection
muzzle speed is 7x mock with a 22cal sided helix projectile (it punch holes in a 7 inch think mild steel plate lol)
it's about 6 feet long 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide and take about 2 hours to charge to 100%
(with bigger charger you can charge it in about 10mins)
if Cap bank had a total meltdown it will leave a 15 foot hole in the ground and destroy every thing with in 300feet
BANG
 
say you get 8 TEC's run them at 24 V in pairs of 2 you only need 4x in amperage so the ones on frozencpu are Amax 25 amp
you need a 100 amp 24volt psu or a 200amp 12volt Psu add 10% so you don't Max out the PSU
with the controller you will only ever use what it need nothing more unless you bypass it to run 100% 95% of the time it won't pass 70% even when folding

WOW, looks amazing, im speechless, looks very promising :)

techmasterjoe

I was sitting there thinking about the pro's and Con's about gantry type setups.  I am beginning to think they aren't a bad idea if they are stiff enough.  Its like have TWO Z columns, as opposed to a traditional bridgeport which would be a single Z column. 
 
I was considering incorperating some of that Bosche rail in my new one.  how thick are those side plates?
 
I already started designing mine as a sliding slab type, but I am still trying to figure out how to improve the Z column(s).

the plates are 1.582117" thick just check
 
the TEC unit after cutting i can get to your door for around 270$ w/o fittings with TEC's bolted and built
 

that's the Brain
it's about 60% done (hardware not even started on software or Arduino code)
 
what it will do
reads temps at zones in the PC
Reads humidity (to find due point)
controls 7 fans with RPM sense (will ramp fans tell they start will re try if fan stalls)
Each Fan channel can take 5amps with a 15+amp surge
monitors TEC draw and shows power used by TEC system (this is done in math)
displays System stats on front LCD
all settings (fan lvl,low temp,and so on) can be changed on front screen
all stats are reported back to the computer by USB header
extra fans can be added up to 96 in all with extra boards
LCD is RGB LED back lit so you can change color is needed or have it Change and beep if something fails or even if your Core reports a new record low temp and log it back to the Arduino
 
i can make and sell them for around 120 as a kit or 180ish ready to use up to you and your going to have to wait tell i trust the code and hardware

the idea is  PC Dream Control