The current configuration looks awesome. Looking forward to the changes. 

Cool upgrade. 

Well, I guess...as initially expected...I may have jumped the gun with this post. At least in terms of timing. Apparently, I was supposed to wait to open some of the items until Christmas, so I can't really get the jump start on this project I thought I could when I saw the big ol' box from watercool.de that a special someone ordered me as a gift and the surprise was no longer a surprise. It is still happening though, so I wanted to post some thoughts I just had on the internal updates and see if anybody wanted to weigh in with their opinions:

So moving the reservoir (and HD cage it's mounted to) out of the system, which is the only reason the HD cage is in there still, will allow me to actually fit the big 420mm radiator I have in the front of the case. I won't be able to put a pull-fan on the bottom, but that can be push-only and be fine. I expect the radiator not to have nearly as much heat as most of the surface area be moved to the MO-RA outside the case. So that means I can move the GPU's radiator to the top, which may even let me move the motherboard mounting frame up a little bit, alleviating some of the pain I have getting to connectors on the bottom of the motherboard, because the push-pull thick 420mm rad I have in the top made me move the motherboard tray as far downward as possible to make everything fit. It literally creates a domino effect I didn't even realize previously.
 
I had so much trouble getting the heat of GPU rad out that I ended up putting a strong 140mm intake fan on the back of the case that has a curve based on the CPU temp so it can feed the 420mm rad with fresh air, and two 120mm fans (far side and in PSU shroud) that were feeding fresh air to the GPU rad that is currently exhausting out the front of my case. It's really uglied up the works and made for some non-ideal aftermarket dust filtering efforts that are...less than perfect. I think the extra radiator (which will currently be massive overkill just my CPU lol...I know...future wet GPUs loom in the distance) will keep the internal 420mm rad cool enough that using it as intake will be fine and let me re-arrange all the fans to where they're considerably more happy/intended to be.
 
I am even more exited for this than I was before considering how much nicer the air-flow setup is going to be. Suggestions appreciated though.
 

Looking good!

I'm still short on some parts, so I haven't done the re-build of the case or cleaned it all out yet. The MO-RA is just sitting there with no fittings on it lol. In another week or two I should have everything I need to get it done and I'll post more pictures.

This rad version came with the mounts for the 4-200mm fans also so I'm not sure what you mean on that part. There's also a nice little 4-way splitter you can see in the first picture of the recent post so only one fan cable sticks out of the little hole on the side of the fan guard.

B0baganoosh
I'm still short on some parts, so I haven't done the re-build of the case or cleaned it all out yet. The MO-RA is just sitting there with no fittings on it lol. In another week or two I should have everything I need to get it done and I'll post more pictures.

This rad version came with the mounts for the 4-200mm fans also so I'm not sure what you mean on that part. There's also a nice little 4-way splitter you can see in the first picture of the recent post so only one fan cable sticks out of the little hole on the side of the fan guard.

Looking forward to the new pictures. 

It's Alive!
 
Well...mostly. Turns out I was still missing a couple things I forgot about. So...re-configured the inside of the case and re-ran the tubing:

420mm radiator is now in the front of the chassis. I took out the rear intake fan. I may put an exhaust fan there at some point, but for now I've just left it so the case will be positive pressure. I have not fully tidied up the wiring yet. The USB front panel cable currently goes through a little hole in the frame that doesn't move with the motherboard tray and the 24-pin cable also would then interfere if I moved the motherboard tray up at all, so it remains where it was before even though as expected there is a lot more room under the GPU AIO than there was when the 420mm rad was up there.
 
With the radiator...it's very tall:

A look at my quick disconnects and drain valve's new location:

I have the 45° swivel joints that used to come out of the reservoir on the back of the case as that makes moving those tubes around and draining the loop easier. The 2nd pump isn't hooked up so I didn't tidy up these wires either...I'll get to that later.
 
Up and running:

 
I had a little leak in the back when I first turned the pump on. I had done leak testing upstairs when I cleaned and flushed everything, then I disconnected the tubes between the MO-RA and case and brought it all down to my desk...started putting the Koolance fluid in and I had dripping out of the drain-valve. Turns out it had just loosened up somewhere in the process, so I snugged that up nice and no more leaks...pheew. I hadn't taken the paper towels away yet for this picture, so I'll have to take some more after I do some cable management and put it the rest of the way back together.
 
I've ordered 2 Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 Pro 120mm fans for on top of the EVGA hybrid radiator. I've modified the top of the case to open up more airflow out of the vents, but every little bit helps up there. I also have a bit of a temporary solution up top where the rest of the radiator-mounting area is wide open where I just taped off the whole opening (I had a plastic piece that normally mounts to the power supply shroud if you don't have a fan there, which I do, and that is taking up the most visually obvious space, but the area right over the 420mm radiator still just has visible masking tape). I might just get some gaff tape or black masking tape to cover it so it looks nice. The idea is that the GPU radiator moves all that heat upwards...but if the cavity it's exhausting to is wide open to the rest of the case, it will just circulate back into the case. So it's better to just get some good pressure fans on the radiator and seal off that compartment so the air has to leave the top of the case through all the vents up there.
 
I was also short one molex splitter for the pumps and an extra male-to-male 4-pin PWM fan extension cable. This needs to go from the pump header on the motherboard to a little 4-port hub that I put on the back of the radiator (under the pumps) that will drive the PWM signal to both pumps and return one of the tach sensors. Currently I've just been running one of the pumps. I tested the other one to make sure it works, but I noticed that it doesn't do a great job moving the fluid with just the pump in the bottom pump-top. I don't know if something about this orientation of tubing causes it not to generate proper head pressure or something, but it seemed like it couldn't pull very well on its own, unlike the pump under the reservoir, which was moving so much water that it was creating a vortex in the reservoir, even though it has the block in there that's supposed to stop that.
 
Whenever I do leak testing or filling of the loop, I use a little cheap 30W 12VDC power supply that I put a molex connector and a switch on the output of so that the computer's PSU and all components are not powered. There are some pictures of that in the Dark Water thread if you want to see it. So it has no PWM control and it's full 12V for filling the loop. I just switch it on and off as I go if I can't keep up with filling the thing.
 
So that's mostly built. I'll do some more tidying and clean-up, then post a couple more pictures when it looks nicer.

looking really nice!  are you thinking about getting a block for the 3080 TI?  you definitely have the headroom now lol
 
did you go top inlet, bottom outlet on the MORA?

That is a lot of rads.  Can never have enough
Ya ever get the water temp sensor going? I hope you don't end up having the same problem as me when I installed my first one...I couldn't stop starring at it lol. It just slowly creeps up and up, and it ends up being a tug of war tweaking the heck out of keeping the fans quiet vs not allowing the water temp to go up.
 
I hear ya on the unicorn builds. Heck, I didn't even bother having a window on my PC this time. No RGB fans, I turned off the GPU's colors, and all I got in terms of color are the Classy's LEDs that I can't turn off.
 
Thinking about future builds is always a necessity! I bought the best of the best I could in the mid 2000s, and most of it was used for over 15 years. I'm still using my D5 pump and rad from back then. I was very surprised how well the pump internals looked when I took it apart from the old build.

Flybye
That is a lot of rads.  Can never have enough
Ya ever get the water temp sensor going? I hope you don't end up having the same problem as me when I installed my first one...I couldn't stop starring at it lol. It just slowly creeps up and up, and it ends up being a tug of war tweaking the heck out of keeping the fans quiet vs not allowing the water temp to go up.
 
I hear ya on the unicorn builds. Heck, I didn't even bother having a window on my PC this time. No RGB fans, I turned off the GPU's colors, and all I got in terms of color are the Classy's LEDs that I can't turn off.
 
Thinking about future builds is always a necessity! I bought the best of the best I could in the mid 2000s, and most of it was used for over 15 years. I'm still using my D5 pump and rad from back then. I was very surprised how well the pump internals looked when I took it apart from the old build.

I haven't had much time to test it with the good fluid at all. I also didn't re-do my CPU mount. It was really good before so I just left it, but I've been wondering if I should just re-do it after cranking on the block fittings a bit when I re-did the tubing for everything.
 
That said, I did do a single run of multi-thread CBr23 and the hottest core hit 83 for a second before calming back down and the package was mid-70's I think. I have the e-cores up at 4.6Ghz, but P-cores were only at 5.5GHz. I didn't mess with actually adjusting that yet, as I need to get al the air out of the system once I get the other pump running this weekend (last parts ETA Saturday). I let the OC-robot run in the BIOS and I think it was at about 76°C with all cores at 5.7GHz lol. Oh yeah, and the water sensor might have gone up to about 20-21°C in that test lol. I was watching it during one of the tests and it only hit 19.7°C. You might say I was giggling a bit haha. Sure, future-proofing for a hot GPU to be added some day, but for now it's just the most overkill CPU water loop I've ever seen. Love it.

B0baganoosh
I've put about 12 hours of gaming in on the new setup. I'm still missing a wire and a couple fans I want to upgrade the EVGA hybrid radiator with, so I don't have my case side panels on yet, but right at the moment it's running incredibly quiet (only real noise is the GPU radiator fans when they kick on and I don't have them super high so they're not loud at all...will be even quieter once the glass panel is on).
 
I only messed with my OC for a few minutes. Ended up getting a cold right after Christmas, so it has limited what I've felt like doing at night, which is usually my play time lol. Ended up with a new highest score for all but single-core for myself on CPU Profile. It seems that 6.1GHz on 2 cores wasn't stable, so I might actually get some better all-core scores as I think even with 5.8GHz all-P and at least 4.8GHz all-e I only hit 83C on the hottest core for a second in the max-threads test. The other tests were in the 60's or colder, but they're very short. If you look at the comparison between that and one of my previous best runs, you can see that the average clock speeds were up by 162MHz and temperatures were 7°C lower on average. I'm still not 100% sure on how the adaptive voltages with the V/f curve are supposed to work on this board, as there are three different 5.8GHz values I can set, and I can give them all different values...Currently just have all three at +0 lol. -25mV on 51x and 54x.
 
The two games I played (7 days mostly) were pretty light on the CPU and one day it hit a maximum core temp of 52°C lol. I think it was under 150W the whole time though. 
 
 

Outstanding results. 

Very nice setup!

A fantastic upgrade. Well done!

Another excellent upgrade. 

I installed the 4090 to make sure it works before doing any water block work. Seems like a huge step up in benches. Haven't gotten any games in yet, but after doing all the work to take out the other card, (also doing BIOS update, vBIOS updates to air to sell the other GPU, taking the case apart, DDU,...etc. lol) I only had so much time to test things. Did a few speedway runs, TSE, played with Superposition a bit and called it.
 
Just testing the card (no side panels on the case):

I think I'll end up moving up the whole motherboard tray (which also lifts the rear fan and everything). I used to need room for a thick push/pull-rad setup up there and now there are just fans.

Observations: Everything is CHONKY. the card is chonky, the adaptor is chonky. I'd have to bend the crap out of it to fit my side panel on. It'd help if I routed tubing differently, but I was just doing a test here, so I left it. I can't imagine how obnoxious the STRIX cards are.
 
Completely stock Speedway run: 9918
Did a quick +150core, +500mem run: 10213
Added a bit more core and cranked up the power slider (not that it did much): 10389
Didn't have much time to play with it before moving on to test other things. I basically just wanted to make sure the card functioned correctly before doing any mods and wanted to run through several benches quickly. Also curious what thermals looked like with the power draw on this card.
Time Spy Extreme: 18816
I had my CPU at my 24/7 settings, not my max-bench settings, so I wasn't breaking any records there, but the GPU ran +285core and +750mem. It crashed at +300core and I didn't play with pushing memory at all. That said, pushing my CPU a bit for a previous score only added ~200 CPU points lol. I think my best with the 3080ti was 11184 total. While I'm showing TSE scores, here's a 4080 laptop with 13980HX: 9105. I don't remember if I had it in the manual-maximum mode or just the high performance mode right under that, but compared to my 3080ti desktop, it really isn't bad.
 
I'm curious to see what the 4090 does on water though... 
 
Speaking of which, my water block came in, so this'll be the next process. I'll do the changeover all at once so I'm definitely waiting for the new PSU to arrive too. Sneak peak:

 
The power supply I ordered is the be quiet! Straight Power 12 1200W. It's platinum efficiency, handles 200% excursions on the GPU line and has the single cable for the GPU, which will help in my case dramatically. Also, $279 was a lot more palatable than the $419 for the Dark Power Pro 13 1300W. The ripple is a little worse on these, but they're still a really well built supply according to the reviews that exist so far so I'm hoping for the best.
 
The saddest part of all this though...after this upgrade, the motherboard will be the only EVGA part in my desktop. I've also recently dropped the EVGA mouse I had as I got sick of dealing with its issues. I still have the keyboard, but just those two. I used to have the PSU, GPU, Motherboard, AiO, keyboard, mouse...lol. oh well.