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B0baganoosh
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2022/11/16 10:59:54 (permalink)
This is going to take a while.
 
I'm going to take Dark Water in its current configuration:


13900k
z690 Classified
32GB DDR5-6000
3080ti Hybrid
1000W EVGA G3
420mm EKWB rad (standard one, not slim-line)
Optimus CPU Block
Optimus Reservoir
EKWB tubing and fittings (16mmx10mm)
Be Quiet! Dark Pro 900 v1 case
 
And I'm going to do some modifications, based on this post I had over in Hardware looking for ideas (thanks for those, by the way).
 
1. The reservoir is coming out and I'm going to update the fans on the GPU rad to the new Silent Wings 4. 
2. I'm adding a pass-through in the PCI-slot area under the GPU and the hoses that currently go to the reservoir will go down there. I haven't planned out the tube-routing yet.
3. I'm going to add a water temperature gauge to the pass-through so that a little screen under the GPU shows the water temperature.
4. I'm going to add a MO-RA3 on top of this case. Parts list is in the hardware thread. I'm going to mount this reservoir/pump combo and another pump on the side of the radiator (modifying their reservoir mounting plate accordingly) so that I have 2 D5-pumps in series. The Optimus block is pretty restrictive with its ridiculously fine-pitch fins and pushing through the MO-RA3 420mm rad and an internal 420mm rad, as well as any future additions (see #5 below this lol), I just figured I'd rather be safe than sorry and have two pumps that can handle more head pressure.
5. At a future date, it'll get a water-cooled GPU (not sure yet on 7950XTXTXTXT or 4090ti or something even later than those honestly)
 
What I like about this...and why the name "Dark Palimpsest" (other than Palimpsest being the name of a great album from Protest The Hero): Dark, because it is based on the Dark Water build...and I'll always keep it more of a dark build than the bright flashy rainbow unicorn stuff. Palimpsest is a term that can mean "something reused or altered but still bearing visible traces of its earlier form." So I'm reusing Dark Water here, but in a different way. The bigger thing I like about this is that I can completely rebuild the computer, do a new case, whatever hardware I want, etc. but the radiator, reservoir, tubing, quick disconnects, drain system, etc. can all be external and super easily swapped from one system to another. I can swap out any part I want without too much fuss with the flexible tubing. I don't want to completely fill the thing up with quick disconnects, but having them on the back of the case and pulling the reservoir out removes some of the weight and complexity inside the case, which opens up options for better airflow, and I can clean out the pumps/rad separately from the case, or drag them all up to the sink in two pieces instead of always the one big monstrosity. I'm thinking for a future build where I look at Ryzen ~9k-series or Intel 15-16th gen time frame I'll be looking at a new CPU, motherboard, memory, power supply, case, etc. and I'll want to go full water and have some flexibility on what case I want to use or how much desk space I have. With this radiator I can always pull the heat outside and just get a smaller case next time. I may sacrifice the 420mm rad at that point lol as I likely won't need it and having both in this system is going to be massive overkill.

In any case, a big ol' box from Watercool.de just showed up at my house yesterday which means this project is going ahead and I thought at this point I needed to start a new thread separate from the stand-alone journey that was "Dark Water". I will, as before, bring everyone along for the ride.

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    rjohnson11
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/11/16 11:17:11 (permalink)
    The current configuration looks awesome. Looking forward to the changes. 

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    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/11/16 14:14:21 (permalink)
    austin86
    Nice floppy.



    LOL. That is a silicone cup-holder and it is actually quite floppy.

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    Chaos_21
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/11/16 16:28:28 (permalink)
    Cool upgrade. 

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    8Shellac8
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/11/17 05:24:59 (permalink)
    Really nice! Excited to see the transformation. 

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    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/11/28 13:34:46 (permalink)
    Well, I guess...as initially expected...I may have jumped the gun with this post. At least in terms of timing. Apparently, I was supposed to wait to open some of the items until Christmas, so I can't really get the jump start on this project I thought I could when I saw the big ol' box from watercool.de that a special someone ordered me as a gift and the surprise was no longer a surprise. It is still happening though, so I wanted to post some thoughts I just had on the internal updates and see if anybody wanted to weigh in with their opinions:

    So moving the reservoir (and HD cage it's mounted to) out of the system, which is the only reason the HD cage is in there still, will allow me to actually fit the big 420mm radiator I have in the front of the case. I won't be able to put a pull-fan on the bottom, but that can be push-only and be fine. I expect the radiator not to have nearly as much heat as most of the surface area be moved to the MO-RA outside the case. So that means I can move the GPU's radiator to the top, which may even let me move the motherboard mounting frame up a little bit, alleviating some of the pain I have getting to connectors on the bottom of the motherboard, because the push-pull thick 420mm rad I have in the top made me move the motherboard tray as far downward as possible to make everything fit. It literally creates a domino effect I didn't even realize previously.
     
    I had so much trouble getting the heat of GPU rad out that I ended up putting a strong 140mm intake fan on the back of the case that has a curve based on the CPU temp so it can feed the 420mm rad with fresh air, and two 120mm fans (far side and in PSU shroud) that were feeding fresh air to the GPU rad that is currently exhausting out the front of my case. It's really uglied up the works and made for some non-ideal aftermarket dust filtering efforts that are...less than perfect. I think the extra radiator (which will currently be massive overkill just my CPU lol...I know...future wet GPUs loom in the distance) will keep the internal 420mm rad cool enough that using it as intake will be fine and let me re-arrange all the fans to where they're considerably more happy/intended to be.
     
    I am even more exited for this than I was before considering how much nicer the air-flow setup is going to be. Suggestions appreciated though.
     
    post edited by B0baganoosh - 2022/11/28 13:45:04

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    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/14 20:21:04 (permalink)
    A little progress. I got my MO-RA3 420-Pro set up with the lower pump. I still need to get some fittings, tubing, and cables in, as well as some fresh fluids and some mayhems cleaner to clean out my current loop. Then I can start the re-configuration, but I figured I'd share some MO-RA pictures:
     

     
    It's one thing to know these fans are 200mm. It's another to hold one in your hand. They're quite large.

     

     

     
    Very much a work in progress so excuse the mess lol.

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    #7
    rjohnson11
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/18 02:01:09 (permalink)
    Looking good!

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    redteamgo
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/21 12:52:44 (permalink)
    Awesome, love it.  did you have to remove the MORA frame to get the fans on there right?  I got mine mounted up but then getting the fans and cable runs done in a satisfactory way was tough.
     
    i did the same thing, ran some mayhems pt 2, flushed with distilled then bled with koolance 702.  Been good since!
     
    how is it performing so far? to your expectations hopefully?

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    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/21 19:32:36 (permalink)
    I'm still short on some parts, so I haven't done the re-build of the case or cleaned it all out yet. The MO-RA is just sitting there with no fittings on it lol. In another week or two I should have everything I need to get it done and I'll post more pictures.

    This rad version came with the mounts for the 4-200mm fans also so I'm not sure what you mean on that part. There's also a nice little 4-way splitter you can see in the first picture of the recent post so only one fan cable sticks out of the little hole on the side of the fan guard.

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    redteamgo
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/22 09:33:28 (permalink)
    Ah I see OK.  I used that same splitter, it makes it much cleaner.  when I did mine, I found it was a bit tricky to get the fans attached to the bracket once the bracket was already attached to the MORA.  attaching the fans to the bracket and then putting the bracket on the MORA was a bit easier.
     
    I think you made the right call going push.  it is plenty .  Not sure that Push/pull really does a whole lot more TBH being that there is so much surface area.  Either way its quickly approaching diminishing returns.

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    rjohnson11
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/22 10:04:43 (permalink)
    B0baganoosh
    I'm still short on some parts, so I haven't done the re-build of the case or cleaned it all out yet. The MO-RA is just sitting there with no fittings on it lol. In another week or two I should have everything I need to get it done and I'll post more pictures.

    This rad version came with the mounts for the 4-200mm fans also so I'm not sure what you mean on that part. There's also a nice little 4-way splitter you can see in the first picture of the recent post so only one fan cable sticks out of the little hole on the side of the fan guard.

    Looking forward to the new pictures. 

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    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/25 16:52:23 (permalink)
    Update (cleaning)

    I took out the GPU (and rad) and drained the CPU loop. Started my mayhem cleaning tonight so I can do the rebuild tomorrow.


    I put in the little water fitting PCI slot pass-through and temperature sensor:


    I also put in a couple holes in the pump bracket that mounts to the side of the MO-RA to add my Optimus pump/reservoir:

    The holes look a little crooked (which is frustrating because I measured three times before drilling them), so I may have to open one up a little like a slot and then center the reservoir. I'll see how much slop I have with the screws when I actually mount it tomorrow and go from there.
    post edited by B0baganoosh - 2022/12/25 18:44:02

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    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/27 10:23:24 (permalink)
    It's Alive!
     
    Well...mostly. Turns out I was still missing a couple things I forgot about. So...re-configured the inside of the case and re-ran the tubing:

    420mm radiator is now in the front of the chassis. I took out the rear intake fan. I may put an exhaust fan there at some point, but for now I've just left it so the case will be positive pressure. I have not fully tidied up the wiring yet. The USB front panel cable currently goes through a little hole in the frame that doesn't move with the motherboard tray and the 24-pin cable also would then interfere if I moved the motherboard tray up at all, so it remains where it was before even though as expected there is a lot more room under the GPU AIO than there was when the 420mm rad was up there.
     
    With the radiator...it's very tall:

    A look at my quick disconnects and drain valve's new location:

    I have the 45° swivel joints that used to come out of the reservoir on the back of the case as that makes moving those tubes around and draining the loop easier. The 2nd pump isn't hooked up so I didn't tidy up these wires either...I'll get to that later.
     
    Up and running:

     
    I had a little leak in the back when I first turned the pump on. I had done leak testing upstairs when I cleaned and flushed everything, then I disconnected the tubes between the MO-RA and case and brought it all down to my desk...started putting the Koolance fluid in and I had dripping out of the drain-valve. Turns out it had just loosened up somewhere in the process, so I snugged that up nice and no more leaks...pheew. I hadn't taken the paper towels away yet for this picture, so I'll have to take some more after I do some cable management and put it the rest of the way back together.
     
    I've ordered 2 Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 Pro 120mm fans for on top of the EVGA hybrid radiator. I've modified the top of the case to open up more airflow out of the vents, but every little bit helps up there. I also have a bit of a temporary solution up top where the rest of the radiator-mounting area is wide open where I just taped off the whole opening (I had a plastic piece that normally mounts to the power supply shroud if you don't have a fan there, which I do, and that is taking up the most visually obvious space, but the area right over the 420mm radiator still just has visible masking tape). I might just get some gaff tape or black masking tape to cover it so it looks nice. The idea is that the GPU radiator moves all that heat upwards...but if the cavity it's exhausting to is wide open to the rest of the case, it will just circulate back into the case. So it's better to just get some good pressure fans on the radiator and seal off that compartment so the air has to leave the top of the case through all the vents up there.
     
    I was also short one molex splitter for the pumps and an extra male-to-male 4-pin PWM fan extension cable. This needs to go from the pump header on the motherboard to a little 4-port hub that I put on the back of the radiator (under the pumps) that will drive the PWM signal to both pumps and return one of the tach sensors. Currently I've just been running one of the pumps. I tested the other one to make sure it works, but I noticed that it doesn't do a great job moving the fluid with just the pump in the bottom pump-top. I don't know if something about this orientation of tubing causes it not to generate proper head pressure or something, but it seemed like it couldn't pull very well on its own, unlike the pump under the reservoir, which was moving so much water that it was creating a vortex in the reservoir, even though it has the block in there that's supposed to stop that.
     
    Whenever I do leak testing or filling of the loop, I use a little cheap 30W 12VDC power supply that I put a molex connector and a switch on the output of so that the computer's PSU and all components are not powered. There are some pictures of that in the Dark Water thread if you want to see it. So it has no PWM control and it's full 12V for filling the loop. I just switch it on and off as I go if I can't keep up with filling the thing.
     
    So that's mostly built. I'll do some more tidying and clean-up, then post a couple more pictures when it looks nicer.

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    rjohnson11
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/27 11:51:03 (permalink)
    I'm sure this took a great deal of work and effort. Well done. 

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    redteamgo
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/27 12:56:47 (permalink)
    looking really nice!  are you thinking about getting a block for the 3080 TI?  you definitely have the headroom now lol
     
    did you go top inlet, bottom outlet on the MORA?

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    NVME:    Samsung 980 Pro Gen 4 1TB, Gen 3 970 1TB
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    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/27 13:56:44 (permalink)
    redteamgo
    looking really nice!  are you thinking about getting a block for the 3080 TI?  you definitely have the headroom now lol
     
    did you go top inlet, bottom outlet on the MORA?



    I hadn't thought about that. I know I could now lol. The plan was to just buy a future GPU with a block and a warranty. It seemed a bit wasteful to spend more money on this 3080ti. The Watercool one is ~190 Euros, EK is $225, and Optimus is $378 (plus I haven't heard great things about the cerakote). If they make a 4090ti or 7950XT(xtxtxtx?) with a water block and warranty that look like they're even remotely worth the sticker price...that will probably be the ticket. I just don't see what benefit I'll get from putting a block on this 3080ti at this point, other than adding a lot more work lol. Maybe if the hybrid cooler dies or something.
     
    I did go top-inlet on the MORA. Also, I'm thinking I did the pumps sort of wrong. Once they're both on, I think it'll be fine (I hope), but I opted for what seemed to be the cleanest tubing layout...which doesn't help the inlet of the bottom pump. The top pump outputs to the MORA, which then goes down into case 420, then to the CPU, then back to the bottom pump. So if you just turn on the bottom pump, it has to try and pull water up the tube, there being no reservoir on top of it, to push it up into the reservoir. I think the pumps would work better if the reservoir was actually feeding both. So reservoir -> top pump -> bottom pump -> MORA instead of bottom pump -> reservoir -> top pump -> MORA. I'll have to see what it sounds like once they're both running. If it sounds like air is getting into the bottom pump than I will have to drain and swap it. I had just sort of assumed that the bottom pump being underneath the top pump and res would remove the chance of air getting trapped there. There's a tiny little air bubble in the top of my CPU block still, which I remember normally takes a little while to disperse, so it might just be a matter of getting both pumps running together and giving it a few minutes.

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    Flybye
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/28 10:15:42 (permalink)
    That is a lot of rads.  Can never have enough
    Ya ever get the water temp sensor going? I hope you don't end up having the same problem as me when I installed my first one...I couldn't stop starring at it lol. It just slowly creeps up and up, and it ends up being a tug of war tweaking the heck out of keeping the fans quiet vs not allowing the water temp to go up.
     
    I hear ya on the unicorn builds. Heck, I didn't even bother having a window on my PC this time. No RGB fans, I turned off the GPU's colors, and all I got in terms of color are the Classy's LEDs that I can't turn off.
     
    Thinking about future builds is always a necessity! I bought the best of the best I could in the mid 2000s, and most of it was used for over 15 years. I'm still using my D5 pump and rad from back then. I was very surprised how well the pump internals looked when I took it apart from the old build.

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    redteamgo
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/28 11:08:38 (permalink)
    B0baganoosh
    redteamgo
    looking really nice!  are you thinking about getting a block for the 3080 TI?  you definitely have the headroom now lol
     
    did you go top inlet, bottom outlet on the MORA?



    I hadn't thought about that. I know I could now lol. The plan was to just buy a future GPU with a block and a warranty. It seemed a bit wasteful to spend more money on this 3080ti. The Watercool one is ~190 Euros, EK is $225, and Optimus is $378 (plus I haven't heard great things about the cerakote). If they make a 4090ti or 7950XT(xtxtxtx?) with a water block and warranty that look like they're even remotely worth the sticker price...that will probably be the ticket. I just don't see what benefit I'll get from putting a block on this 3080ti at this point, other than adding a lot more work lol. Maybe if the hybrid cooler dies or something.
     
    I did go top-inlet on the MORA. Also, I'm thinking I did the pumps sort of wrong. Once they're both on, I think it'll be fine (I hope), but I opted for what seemed to be the cleanest tubing layout...which doesn't help the inlet of the bottom pump. The top pump outputs to the MORA, which then goes down into case 420, then to the CPU, then back to the bottom pump. So if you just turn on the bottom pump, it has to try and pull water up the tube, there being no reservoir on top of it, to push it up into the reservoir. I think the pumps would work better if the reservoir was actually feeding both. So reservoir -> top pump -> bottom pump -> MORA instead of bottom pump -> reservoir -> top pump -> MORA. I'll have to see what it sounds like once they're both running. If it sounds like air is getting into the bottom pump than I will have to drain and swap it. I had just sort of assumed that the bottom pump being underneath the top pump and res would remove the chance of air getting trapped there. There's a tiny little air bubble in the top of my CPU block still, which I remember normally takes a little while to disperse, so it might just be a matter of getting both pumps running together and giving it a few minutes.



    yeah agree.  30xx is kind of a dead generation at this point.  Might as well ride out what you have.  I continue to waffle on 13900k.  getting it is a 2 in 1 upgrade with the hypothetical RAM OC headroom but there are no guarantees.  I'm trying to be happy with what I have.  In a year from now, we'll have 14th gen, 40xx TI, much better RAM and probably new mobos due to socket planned obsolecense.  why spend another $600+ for an incremental upgrade
     
    on loop order, if its all in a series, I doubt it will matter as long as the MORA inlet is on top.. its probably fine.  I love the MORA, it has so much surface area and a great look.  i didnt think it through properly when I first did mine and did bottom inlet, top outlet at first before I changed it around a few weeks ago.  the d5 got it done but i did see significant improvement in GPU:GPU hotspot delta of about 3C fav after changing the orientation, likely due to the significant improvement to flow rate (though my measurement is from ease of bleeding the loop, not a real L/hr unit measurement).
     
    Flybye
    No RGB fans, I turned off the GPU's colors

    same.  this is the way lol.

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    #19
    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2022/12/28 11:13:01 (permalink)
    Flybye
    That is a lot of rads.  Can never have enough
    Ya ever get the water temp sensor going? I hope you don't end up having the same problem as me when I installed my first one...I couldn't stop starring at it lol. It just slowly creeps up and up, and it ends up being a tug of war tweaking the heck out of keeping the fans quiet vs not allowing the water temp to go up.
     
    I hear ya on the unicorn builds. Heck, I didn't even bother having a window on my PC this time. No RGB fans, I turned off the GPU's colors, and all I got in terms of color are the Classy's LEDs that I can't turn off.
     
    Thinking about future builds is always a necessity! I bought the best of the best I could in the mid 2000s, and most of it was used for over 15 years. I'm still using my D5 pump and rad from back then. I was very surprised how well the pump internals looked when I took it apart from the old build.




    I haven't had much time to test it with the good fluid at all. I also didn't re-do my CPU mount. It was really good before so I just left it, but I've been wondering if I should just re-do it after cranking on the block fittings a bit when I re-did the tubing for everything.
     
    That said, I did do a single run of multi-thread CBr23 and the hottest core hit 83 for a second before calming back down and the package was mid-70's I think. I have the e-cores up at 4.6Ghz, but P-cores were only at 5.5GHz. I didn't mess with actually adjusting that yet, as I need to get al the air out of the system once I get the other pump running this weekend (last parts ETA Saturday). I let the OC-robot run in the BIOS and I think it was at about 76°C with all cores at 5.7GHz lol. Oh yeah, and the water sensor might have gone up to about 20-21°C in that test lol. I was watching it during one of the tests and it only hit 19.7°C. You might say I was giggling a bit haha. Sure, future-proofing for a hot GPU to be added some day, but for now it's just the most overkill CPU water loop I've ever seen. Love it.

    6Q6CPFHPBPCU691 is a discount code anyone can use.
     
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    #20
    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/01/03 10:25:40 (permalink)
    I've put about 12 hours of gaming in on the new setup. I'm still missing a wire and a couple fans I want to upgrade the EVGA hybrid radiator with, so I don't have my case side panels on yet, but right at the moment it's running incredibly quiet (only real noise is the GPU radiator fans when they kick on and I don't have them super high so they're not loud at all...will be even quieter once the glass panel is on).
     
    I only messed with my OC for a few minutes. Ended up getting a cold right after Christmas, so it has limited what I've felt like doing at night, which is usually my play time lol. Ended up with a new highest score for all but single-core for myself on CPU Profile. It seems that 6.1GHz on 2 cores wasn't stable, so I might actually get some better all-core scores as I think even with 5.8GHz all-P and at least 4.8GHz all-e I only hit 83C on the hottest core for a second in the max-threads test. The other tests were in the 60's or colder, but they're very short. If you look at the comparison between that and one of my previous best runs, you can see that the average clock speeds were up by 162MHz and temperatures were 7°C lower on average. I'm still not 100% sure on how the adaptive voltages with the V/f curve are supposed to work on this board, as there are three different 5.8GHz values I can set, and I can give them all different values...Currently just have all three at +0 lol. -25mV on 51x and 54x.
     
    The two games I played (7 days mostly) were pretty light on the CPU and one day it hit a maximum core temp of 52°C lol. I think it was under 150W the whole time though. 
     
     
    post edited by B0baganoosh - 2023/01/03 10:36:01

    6Q6CPFHPBPCU691 is a discount code anyone can use.
     
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    #21
    rjohnson11
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/01/05 05:56:52 (permalink)
    B0baganoosh
    I've put about 12 hours of gaming in on the new setup. I'm still missing a wire and a couple fans I want to upgrade the EVGA hybrid radiator with, so I don't have my case side panels on yet, but right at the moment it's running incredibly quiet (only real noise is the GPU radiator fans when they kick on and I don't have them super high so they're not loud at all...will be even quieter once the glass panel is on).
     
    I only messed with my OC for a few minutes. Ended up getting a cold right after Christmas, so it has limited what I've felt like doing at night, which is usually my play time lol. Ended up with a new highest score for all but single-core for myself on CPU Profile. It seems that 6.1GHz on 2 cores wasn't stable, so I might actually get some better all-core scores as I think even with 5.8GHz all-P and at least 4.8GHz all-e I only hit 83C on the hottest core for a second in the max-threads test. The other tests were in the 60's or colder, but they're very short. If you look at the comparison between that and one of my previous best runs, you can see that the average clock speeds were up by 162MHz and temperatures were 7°C lower on average. I'm still not 100% sure on how the adaptive voltages with the V/f curve are supposed to work on this board, as there are three different 5.8GHz values I can set, and I can give them all different values...Currently just have all three at +0 lol. -25mV on 51x and 54x.
     
    The two games I played (7 days mostly) were pretty light on the CPU and one day it hit a maximum core temp of 52°C lol. I think it was under 150W the whole time though. 
     
     


    Outstanding results. 

    AMD Ryzen 9 7950X,  Corsair Mp700 Pro M.2, 64GB Corsair Dominator Titanium DDR5  X670E Steel Legend, MSI RTX 4090 Associate Code: H5U80QBH6BH0AXF. I am NOT an employee of EVGA

    #22
    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/01/09 17:29:19 (permalink)
    I finally got all my fans and cables in, so I've finished putting it back together.
     

     

     

     
    The fans go under the top panel that the radiator sits on now, so it was a nice test of the disconnects. Just disconnect three cables and two tubes and lift the whole rad/pump setup right off the computer. Easy-peasy (other than the weight lol).
     
    I tried to get a close-up of my pump tubing as I had forgotten that picture last time.
     
    I wasn't sure where the water temperature sensor was going to live when I started this and it ended up just sitting on the PSU shroud. I keep the case so dark with minimal RGB lighting that you can't even see any of the wires or tubing under the GPU and it just glows nicely. I had shined a light at the computer just to take that second picture above, so you could see inside, but normally it's pretty dark in there (which is why I like the Dark Base Pro 900 case and went with the "Dark Water" and now "Dark Palimpsest" names). It's subtle, and even though it's tall as can be and looks monstrous when you really start thinking about what all is there, it's very quiet now and nice to sit next to.
     
    Also, the fans I put in (Silent Wins Pro 4 120mm on the GPU radiator...holy crap they move some air). I cranked it up to max just to test it out and while it does make some noise at 100% (just air-flow noise, I can't even hear the fan motors really), it pushes a lot of air out the vents at the top of the case. I was really hoping that radiator swap would work out and so far it seems extremely promising. Let's see how temps are after some hours of gaming with all the panels on the case (I have had it fully open the last couple weeks).

    6Q6CPFHPBPCU691 is a discount code anyone can use.
     
    i9 13900k - EVGA Z690 Classy - Nvidia RTX 4090 FE - G.Skill 32GB DDR5-6000  - WD SN850 2TB NVMe Gen4 - Be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1200W - Be Quiet! Dark Base 900 Pro. MO-RA3 420 Pro. Dark Palimpsest MODS RIGS post for build notes.
    #23
    Delirious
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/02/02 21:16:56 (permalink)
    Very nice setup!

    "Be quick to listen, slow to speak and slow to anger" 
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    #24
    Sleinous
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/02/03 00:04:21 (permalink)
    Cool upgrade!

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    #25
    rjohnson11
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/02/03 01:55:12 (permalink)
    A fantastic upgrade. Well done!

    AMD Ryzen 9 7950X,  Corsair Mp700 Pro M.2, 64GB Corsair Dominator Titanium DDR5  X670E Steel Legend, MSI RTX 4090 Associate Code: H5U80QBH6BH0AXF. I am NOT an employee of EVGA

    #26
    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/08/15 07:00:31 (permalink)
    Oh...where did you come from?

     
    I happened to see it show up as "in stock" on Best Buy the other day. Just randomly. I've checked at complete random every now and then since launch and have never seen it. It was for pick up near me (a small town area where I'm surprised our Best Buy is even able to keep the doors open)...I was thinking this whole time "no chance they ever get a 4090 here" lol. I ordered a Heatkiller block for it and a new bequiet! power supply. The rest of the parts should be here this week. When I picked up the card, I asked the guy at the register if he's seen many of these. He was like "NO! This is the first one I've seen here. How long did you have to wait?!"
     
    I'm going to fix my pump order while I have the loop drained. I accidentally ran it so that the one pump pulls from the system and pushes into the reservoir and the other pump pulls from the reservoir. Once it's running, it seems fine, but there's some distance (and height) between the pulling pump and the system. This makes there be a chance for air pockets to develop which are not so good for the pump. I'm going to make it so the res-pump pushes into the other pump. So two pumps directly in series pulling from the reservoir instead of relying on pulling up a tube from the system below it.
     
    More updates soon.

    6Q6CPFHPBPCU691 is a discount code anyone can use.
     
    i9 13900k - EVGA Z690 Classy - Nvidia RTX 4090 FE - G.Skill 32GB DDR5-6000  - WD SN850 2TB NVMe Gen4 - Be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1200W - Be Quiet! Dark Base 900 Pro. MO-RA3 420 Pro. Dark Palimpsest MODS RIGS post for build notes.
    #27
    rjohnson11
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/08/15 08:39:39 (permalink)
    Another excellent upgrade. 

    AMD Ryzen 9 7950X,  Corsair Mp700 Pro M.2, 64GB Corsair Dominator Titanium DDR5  X670E Steel Legend, MSI RTX 4090 Associate Code: H5U80QBH6BH0AXF. I am NOT an employee of EVGA

    #28
    donta1979
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/08/15 12:49:24 (permalink)
    Pretty awesome man!

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    #29
    B0baganoosh
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    Re: Dark Palimpsest 2023/08/16 07:13:42 (permalink)
    I installed the 4090 to make sure it works before doing any water block work. Seems like a huge step up in benches. Haven't gotten any games in yet, but after doing all the work to take out the other card, (also doing BIOS update, vBIOS updates to air to sell the other GPU, taking the case apart, DDU,...etc. lol) I only had so much time to test things. Did a few speedway runs, TSE, played with Superposition a bit and called it.
     
    Just testing the card (no side panels on the case):

    I think I'll end up moving up the whole motherboard tray (which also lifts the rear fan and everything). I used to need room for a thick push/pull-rad setup up there and now there are just fans.

    Observations: Everything is CHONKY. the card is chonky, the adaptor is chonky. I'd have to bend the crap out of it to fit my side panel on. It'd help if I routed tubing differently, but I was just doing a test here, so I left it. I can't imagine how obnoxious the STRIX cards are.
     
    Completely stock Speedway run: 9918
    Did a quick +150core, +500mem run: 10213
    Added a bit more core and cranked up the power slider (not that it did much): 10389
    Didn't have much time to play with it before moving on to test other things. I basically just wanted to make sure the card functioned correctly before doing any mods and wanted to run through several benches quickly. Also curious what thermals looked like with the power draw on this card.
    Time Spy Extreme: 18816
    I had my CPU at my 24/7 settings, not my max-bench settings, so I wasn't breaking any records there, but the GPU ran +285core and +750mem. It crashed at +300core and I didn't play with pushing memory at all. That said, pushing my CPU a bit for a previous score only added ~200 CPU points lol. I think my best with the 3080ti was 11184 total. While I'm showing TSE scores, here's a 4080 laptop with 13980HX: 9105. I don't remember if I had it in the manual-maximum mode or just the high performance mode right under that, but compared to my 3080ti desktop, it really isn't bad.
     
    I'm curious to see what the 4090 does on water though... 
     
    Speaking of which, my water block came in, so this'll be the next process. I'll do the changeover all at once so I'm definitely waiting for the new PSU to arrive too. Sneak peak:

     
    The power supply I ordered is the be quiet! Straight Power 12 1200W. It's platinum efficiency, handles 200% excursions on the GPU line and has the single cable for the GPU, which will help in my case dramatically. Also, $279 was a lot more palatable than the $419 for the Dark Power Pro 13 1300W. The ripple is a little worse on these, but they're still a really well built supply according to the reviews that exist so far so I'm hoping for the best.
     
    The saddest part of all this though...after this upgrade, the motherboard will be the only EVGA part in my desktop. I've also recently dropped the EVGA mouse I had as I got sick of dealing with its issues. I still have the keyboard, but just those two. I used to have the PSU, GPU, Motherboard, AiO, keyboard, mouse...lol. oh well. 
    post edited by B0baganoosh - 2023/08/16 08:36:36

    6Q6CPFHPBPCU691 is a discount code anyone can use.
     
    i9 13900k - EVGA Z690 Classy - Nvidia RTX 4090 FE - G.Skill 32GB DDR5-6000  - WD SN850 2TB NVMe Gen4 - Be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1200W - Be Quiet! Dark Base 900 Pro. MO-RA3 420 Pro. Dark Palimpsest MODS RIGS post for build notes.
    #30
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