ND Systems - Just Doo It

the second one offered has a possibility for trademark infringement but if my old law classes memory is accurate it needs to be at least 30% different from trademarked material. I think it actually meets that.

funny storry about cease and desists:
 
I once registered a domain name for a friend of mine who was making an independant movie about serial killers. the domain name was something along the lines of J*hn W*yne G*cey dotcom. can't remember exactly what the url was but it had J*W*G* in the domain. Anyway, I got a 10 page cease and desist from the cowboy's lawyers. never heard anything from JWG people though (if he even has people).

as far as a logo goes, it should be a simple one, so that it can be easily engraved in the new machine.  I am close to having all the parts for it.
 
I have been sandblasting all the blocks, and I didn't realize how long it would take with a seriously underpowered air compressor.  My options are to take the next MONTH sandblasting (because I can only get a 2 second burst out of it), or to bring the sandblast cabinet to work & use the ginormous one there.
 
All blocks will be sandblasted, and those who want it brushed metal, will have that done after.  The sandblasting helps to de-bur the material, and clean up the edges. 

yah, small compressors just dont cut it with sandblasting or painting. I use a 250 gallon, 28hp 3 phase 220v 65amp, and it even runs pretty much constantly with the sandblaster going.
 
seems to be a big gap between hobby shops and shops that will efficiently make you money. its getting easier and easier though. machines keep getting smaller and faster and cheeper

nateman_doo

Finally some progress tonight.  Pics soon.

2 hours later ... ;)

Almost all of the cap cutouts on the back of the block are taken care of.  Took me like, 2 hours to re-zero the machine after the power went out.  Not sure about the rest of the county, but we have been getting some KILLER rainstorms this past week in the north east.

Nate.
 
once you have the machine zero'd, drill a .500 hole dead center in the jig.
(I would suggest drilling it .004 'ish undersize and honing to .500 if you need precision)
 
now when you do a fresh setup...
, insert a .500 pin into hole, put .500 collet in spindle, drop spindle onto pin, gently tighten collet, rotate jig to align properly with X and Y axis, clamp jig, loosen collet and retract spindle, remove alignment pin from jig.
re-zero'd and aligned parrallel in 30 seconds.
 
Or in the case of a step loss or power outage after jig is clamped, simply manually move X and Y axis until spindle collet smoothly slides over alignment pin.
re-zerod, 15 seconds...
 
your welcome buddy
 
(Ive made all my waterblock and evaporator jigs this way, massive time saver)
 
 

Thanks, Im just loaded with obscure info ...lol.
 
I always wanted to build a CnC router, just haven't had the funds.
If I had it to do over again I'd build a heavy duty Gantry router.
 
Really like the pics of yours
 
Ill P,M ya  pic of my mill.

I'm the one that started the CNC in this thread so its my apologize he needs. Sorry for changing the topic of the thread but I thank you for the information you guys have put in it's been very interesting and gives me an idea of what i may be able to do in the future.

So my boss came down and expressed his thoughts on personal tools at work.  Needless to say I have to find a bigger air compressor, and fast. 

Could you do a 4 way classy block? 

FINALLY:
after weeks of drafting, coding and just saying GO for it, here is the Vreg O-ring version:

 
Its pretty nerve racking watching your 1/16" bit come withing 0.03" from the steel screw holding it in place, but thats why it took me so long to CAD & code it properly. 
 
Next step is the top, then copper ones will follow shortly.

A closer look. 

 
The O-ring gap is 0.0625" (1/16) and the gap between the O-ring and the screw holes is.... less.

looking good