musasm
I have 1080 ftw and I have this problem too. In 3dmark's skydiver benchmark, my card gives the black out problem everytime at exact point that when woman fires a flare in the cave. But, it doesn't happen unless it is in debug mode. So, I think the issue is cards boost profile related. It might be hardware issue that some cards are not able to go beyond base clock or something. Since it is ftw and advertised as with its boost clock, they have to exchange failed cards with new ones instead of bios update which would change boost clock lower than advertised number. Just a guess. :)
I bought my card directly from Amazon on August 28th. Instead of Rma process, I am going to try Amazon return program.

JonIrenicus
Well, guess what. Black screen and fans spin up to 100%. No overclock, no nothing. 
 
I received my 1080 ftw yesterday, and this thing happened some moments ago, when I was playing Dragon Age: Inquisition.
 
I bought the card directly from eu.evga.com and I made the purchase on the 2nd of September and it was shipped on the 8th of September. Obviously I will RMA it, but I hate if I have to pay the shipping cost. I already paid too much for a frustrating issue. I hope someone from the evga team wil explain better how the process goes exactly, because it asks a lot of information, just for one support ticket.
 
I don' t know if this is relative, but my serial number is 16125xxxxxxxxxxx.
 
I' ll try this debug fix, but I didn't pay premium for that. First evga graphics card and I' m starting to regret it. I hope at least, that the support is as good as I hear.

musasm
I have 1080 ftw and I have this problem too. In 3dmark's skydiver benchmark, my card gives the black out problem everytime at exact point that when woman fires a flare in the cave. But, it doesn't happen unless it is in debug mode. So, I think the issue is cards boost profile related. It might be hardware issue that some cards are not able to go beyond base clock or something. Since it is ftw and advertised as with its boost clock, they have to exchange failed cards with new ones instead of bios update which would change boost clock lower than advertised number. Just a guess. :)
I bought my card directly from Amazon on August 28th. Instead of Rma process, I am going to try Amazon return program.

FljpFl0p
So I got the problem again after a week of not seeing it, also while playing Witcher 3.
 
Problem is, this time the card simply dropped dead. After resetting, there's only a single white bar on my main monitor. Plugged  in my old 770 and it works normally. No choice but to RMA this time.
 

 

Fuhckerschite
I had this black screens to super fans crash about a few weeks ago maybe and it freaked me out. Restarted my PC and it was fine.  Flash forward to today and I was checking out Guild Wars 2 again with a friend. Boom, black screens and omega fans.  Restart PC.  Restart Guild Wars.  Not even 5 mins in, boom black screen and uber fans.  I get pissed and check on EVGA's forums and find this thread.  Now I'm pissed.  How many people are having this problem?  Pretty unacceptable if you ask me.  Am I supposed to RMA or should I just get a new card.

zyther
I received my RMA card on the 20th of August and it has been fine since till last night. When playing WoW. My Screens went black, fans sped to 100% i hit the power button on my pc. and herd the sound of the windows shut down music. I went in and looked in event logs and nothing was listed. maybe a driver fail?

tehbigbug
Could people post their GPU BIOS version of their old and new cards? If the BIOS isn't the problem, let's rule that out.
 
My old card: *to be filled in once I plug it in again*
My new card: 86.4.17.0.80

Fuhckerschite

Nereus

Fuhckerschite
I had this black screens to super fans crash about a few weeks ago maybe and it freaked me out. Restarted my PC and it was fine.  Flash forward to today and I was checking out Guild Wars 2 again with a friend. Boom, black screens and omega fans.  Restart PC.  Restart Guild Wars.  Not even 5 mins in, boom black screen and uber fans.  I get pissed and check on EVGA's forums and find this thread.  Now I'm pissed.  How many people are having this problem?  Pretty unacceptable if you ask me.  Am I supposed to RMA or should I just get a new card.

Mine has also crashed several times in Guild Wars 2, and earlier in this thread I noticed a number of people mentioned crashes while playing GW2 (among other games). You will need to contact EVGA and they may run a few tests and likely you'll have to RMA the card, but EVGA have been giving free EAR returns (they ship replacement new card to you, then you ship old card back using supplied pre-paid shipping label). In the meantime, if you go into NVidia control panel and click "help" on the menu on the top of the window, then click "debug mode", that seems to stop the crashes (and also limits the boost to 1860MHz). You need to do this every time you restart your PC btw.
 
EVGA will ship you a new card btw, not a refurbished one. This problem is apparently some hardware issue with a small number of cards shipped from EVGA prior to 8/30/2016. 
 
To contact EVGA, just go to and start filling it out, and one of the following screens should give you a toll-free number to call and they will take it from there.
 

Called EVGA earlier and got everything set up!!!  No questions asked.  Just had to send a PDF of my Amazon invoice and I'm good to go. New card should be sent here in the next few days. As much as it sucks to get bad hardware, it's rather nice when the company that makes it takes the responsibility and replaces it promptly.  Now if I can just talk em into upgrading it to the Hydro.

tehbigbug

For anyone wanting to know about EVGA serial numbers, here's what I was told by a rep:
"The first two digits correlate to the year, so 16 being for 2016, the third digit designates the product type, 0 being power supply, 1 being graphics card, 2 being motherboard, etc. Then the 4th and 5th number designates the factory is was manufactured in, as far as I know. The 6th digit signifies the warranty length, this particular one being a 3, for 3 years, while 7,8,9 and 10 are the part number. The 11th digit is for the region it's sold in and the last 5 digits are simply the serial number sequence."

Knowing this, chances are good that if the last 5 digits of your serial number on your new card make a number larger than the last 5 on your old card, you have a card made later in production with the fixes.

I hope this helps.

tehbigbug
Well, I just put the old card in and it looks like the BIOS versions are the same with the BIOS dumps being the exact same on the byte level too. A CS rep said they were told it was a hardware issue and not firmware. 

I suspect the post earlier about hardware differences was so the tech could see if one of the power connectors had something wrong.

In any case, the Panasonic SP-caps on mine varied slightly. The old had 668QJ while the new has 66WQK. Not sure if that is pertinent, but it was a topic of discussion so I felt I should put it here anyway. Plus, the serial numbers only varied by the last 4 digits.
 
At this rate, I do not have much confidence in this new card. With the old one, it would crash on any of the last 3 driver versions from Nvidia. Someone else mentioned that theirs crashed suddenly after a month of no problems. 

EVGA, we are paying a large chunk of money for this card. If this is the quality of the component we receive, I want to know why and what has been done to fix it. I don't want reassurances, I want facts. I talked to someone through the technical support and they said the Product Team assured the customer service reps that it has been fixed but were given no details. EVGA, your customer service reps need details because your customers need details.

To the customer service reps: I understand that you can only work with the information you are given. Thanks for being awesome. I'm happy to see that all the good things said about the customer service are true, as far as I can tell.

For anyone wanting to know about EVGA serial numbers, here's what I was told by a rep:
"The first two digits correlate to the year, so 16 being for 2016, the third digit designates the product type, 0 being power supply, 1 being graphics card, 2 being motherboard, etc. Then the 4th and 5th number designates the factory is was manufactured in, as far as I know. The 6th digit signifies the warranty length, this particular one being a 3, for 3 years, while 7,8,9 and 10 are the part number. The 11th digit is for the region it's sold in and the last 5 digits are simply the serial number sequence."

Knowing this, chances are good that if the last 5 digits of your serial number on your new card make a number larger than the last 5 on your old card, you have a card made later in production with the fixes.

I hope this helps.