Holy cow that's a lot behind the OLED.

I measured roughly 0.065" width and 0.085" tall. That's where the calipers start to "hang on" to the rubber.

Fills the channel well

what a mess. sorry y'all

USMC, that's good to hear that more than likely it's the oil.  It's easier to tell when the block is off and you have a chance to feel the viscosity of the fluid there.  Fragility's liquid was for sure coolant as I believe he followed up what he found with a pressure test and his block failed.  
 
I'll be trying to get my Kingpin into my case later today so I can finish getting the last tubes done for the loop.  I'm still waiting on some parts to help brace the GPU due to it's weight and vertical installation.  

Got everything back in and it is up and running. No signs of leaks. Will keep y'all posted.

Making progress. Inlet is just 1 90 deg bend, outlet is a 180, 90 up, 90 in.... I foresee lots of scrap

AHowes

Gotspeed_2000
USMC, that's good to hear that more than likely it's the oil.  It's easier to tell when the block is off and you have a chance to feel the viscosity of the fluid there.  Fragility's liquid was for sure coolant as I believe he followed up what he found with a pressure test and his block failed.  
 
I'll be trying to get my Kingpin into my case later today so I can finish getting the last tubes done for the loop.  I'm still waiting on some parts to help brace the GPU due to it's weight and vertical installation.  

That's easy enough. I always used black rubber washers under the board around the pcie port. The same height as the mb standoffs. Usually stack 2 with hot glue in the middle and then hot glue it to the backside of the board.

Find a standard sink washer set at the hardware store.

Worked great for 4 580 cards eith heavy solid brass dangerden water blocks a decade ago as well. Nothing heavier then that on a mb haha.

The concern is more the overall weight of this block when completed and the design of the block in that it doesn't extend all the way to the end of where the PCI slot on the PCB.  With the Optimus block not extending the full length of the pcb to me it could create a flex point on the pcb.  Over time and with the addition of heat could cause the the flexing there to become more of an issue.  Although I haven't tested it, I believe it to be something I would be concerned about over the long haul.  On the Optimus block it comes up about one inch short of the end of the pcb near the video outputs are.  With this gpu I'd rather not take the risk of mounting this either horizontal or vertical without additional support for the gpu.  For me I decided to mount this vertical to show off the gpu and block and with so much weight hanging off the end of the gpu I needed to find a way to help support the weight.  
 
If I had stayed with the O11 XL with the vertical mount I had along with the medium thickness rad on the bottom it would have placed the gpu output ports right over the cpu block ports which would have required tube runs I would not prefer along with covering up most of the mobo as well.  I would have either had to go to a thinner rad on the bottom or sacrifice the bottom rad to make it fit where the gpu port would have allowed a better run in my opinion.  I could have run it with the gpu in the standard horizontal position, but I was concerned about the weight of the gpu and getting gpu braces in that would help support the weight of the gpu while still maintaining a clean appearance.  Having multiple gpu post supporting the weight of the gpu/block going from the area of the bottom rad/fans to the gpu was not something I was going to be fond of.  
 
With the Enthoo Pro 2 case there is even less options to support the gpu since it is designed around having a itx mobo mounted below the primary mobo area and I filled that area up with a radiator and hard tube runs for the loop.  In hindsight I should have just went with the Corsair 1000D Obsidian instead.  The cost for that case is crazy but it would have been a lot easier to plan the loop since it has tons of space along with a more conventional cooling loop placement.  Trying to fit in all the rads I wanted to run along with the tube runs made it very challenging.  Also because it's not a common case for custom loops getting ideas on what worked and didn't along with routing the tubes for the cooling loop took more time to plan the more complex the loop got.  I haven't been able to find much info on a build in this case with 4 rads in it.  Even with three rad setups the few that I've seen online used thinner or shorter rads than what I am using to make it work for them.  
 
With the case I choose, I tried to think of a variety of options to help support the weight of the gpu.  In the end, I figured out something but it would require a very hard to find adjustable GPU brace which would then be modified for use in my case and setup.  Every setup and build is different so in my current case there were very few options available based on the layout and design of the case.  
 
I live in a hot environment so max ambient cooling was a priority for me.  Is 4 rads overkill for what I plan to do with this pc, more than likely yes.  But as a person who builds custom pcs it was a challenge I wanted to do to show what can be done.  

And the runs are straight and parallel. Man that last run was a bear. I'll do a leak test later tonight and get her topped off soon.

Agree.  Beautiful build @Jsunn

Nice work Jsunn.  Did you get the bends on the first attempt?  That is a one and done run each time.  Did you do anything else to help compensate for the additional weight of the gpu?  

Optimus 3090 kingpin gasket revision. Old on left and new on right.
https://imgur.com/gallery/GqPTjZJ

Got speed get us some pics of the enthoo fully loaded when you are dialed in. Sounds like it’s going to be a knockout. Cheers mate.

Nice build Gotspeed

For those with Nickel plating on their blocks be aware it has been known to flake off.

Just had my second instance of flaking on my Sig2 block. First was the cold plate, now it’s the base of the block itself.

Just more issues from them to be aware of.

zippytek

ShawnB420
For those with Nickel plating on their blocks be aware it has been known to flake off.

Just had my second instance of flaking on my Sig2 block. First was the cold plate, now it’s the base of the block itself.

Just more issues from them to be aware of.

just the sigs or have you seen this for the foundation as well? i have both but the foundation is in my daily and the sig(s) are in a box in favor of heatkiller block on bench. love the HK, very versatile and great temps with or without chiller

Are you talking about the relatively new satin nickel cerakote, or the original pro-XE nickel which they've used for years? I've had no such problem with my Sig V2 CPU block which is years old - the pro-XE nickel block has zero flaking. The cold plate is raw copper.
 

Nereus

zippytek

ShawnB420
For those with Nickel plating on their blocks be aware it has been known to flake off.

Just had my second instance of flaking on my Sig2 block. First was the cold plate, now it’s the base of the block itself.

Just more issues from them to be aware of.

just the sigs or have you seen this for the foundation as well? i have both but the foundation is in my daily and the sig(s) are in a box in favor of heatkiller block on bench. love the HK, very versatile and great temps with or without chiller

Are you talking about the relatively new satin nickel cerakote, or the original pro-XE nickel which they've used for years? I've had no such problem with my Sig V2 CPU block which is years old - the pro-XE nickel block has zero flaking. The cold plate is raw copper.
 

i've had all these for a couple of years now i'm guessing, so def not the cerakote