I have a newer cerakote white versions in my son's 3080 based build.  He has both the CPU and GPU blocks for his build.  After 3 months both cpu and gpu blocks have been fine so far.  

I also had issues with leaks in my Kingpin block but Optimus worked to get me replacement mid plates to supposedly remedy the issue/concerns.  I did see others continue to have issues even after changing their mid plates so we'll see if I'm able to get mines up and running soon.  My Optimus Kingpin blocks were flat and had no issues with the installation, just leaks around the cold plate and mid plate on the original setup.  I have yet to redo the conversion since getting back my Kingpin from rma and the new mid plates from Optimus.  I plan on working that soon and then testing it to see if it will hold pressure.  
 
To be honest, I prefer their original nickel plating over the cerkote finish they now offer.  It was pretty cool when it was announced that you could now get cerakote blocks in black, white, and silver but honestly my original Nickel plated Optimus FTW3 block was so much much easier to work with and the finish being more consistent I wish they would go back to that process instead.  I think a lot of the issues come from that and inconsistent results of the cerakote process they are using.  On some blocks, it looks like the cerakote finish is thin or the copper is exposed in areas like the gasket channels which are vital to maintaining seals.  Throw in that the gaskets do not occupy the entire width of the channel on the kingpin blocks I have which I believe then allows the the gasket to expand width wise which can impact its ability to seal up against the plexi/cerakote finish under certain circumstances.  
 
There have been a few people here who have posted back that their kingpin blocks are working great and they don't have issues, but there have also been others who have posted their issues and regardless of what they have tried were not able to resolve issues involving this block.  Even some with experience building have had some issues with this block including myself so I don't think you can point it out to user errors automatically.  At the same time there are others with little to no experience who have been fortunate to have their work great for them.  

Can’t wait to finish my build. Crossing fingers.

It did not clear the x299 dark, the z590 dark, z590ftw, z690 dark.

Gotspeed_2000
Got the block mounted to my rma'd Kingpin this past weekend.  Have done multiple pressure test so far and it looks like the seal is good.  I am planning on continuing multiple pressure test prior to this block going into my build.  I chased some leaks due on the screws that mount the plexi to the mid plates.  Part of the issue might have come from me having to move over my plexi covers, gaskets, and cold plate from my original silver mid plates to the new blacks ones I got from Optimus recently.  I've been tightening them up a bit after the initial leaks and the pressure has remained stable over an extended period of time through multiple pressure test conducted so far.  
 

 
I'm hoping to get this into my pc sometime later this week so in the mean time I'm going to continue the pressure testing rounds to see if it will continue to remain stable.  

doesn't it seem like the channel gaskets are too thin?  like they barely compress?  (as others have noted) 

I’m using the original gaskets with the new mid-plates. The channel where the gasket sits is still a little larger than the gaskets I have. I recently ordered a new set so if the block is not able to hold pressure I’m going to redo the gaskets and see if it impacts the overall seal.

I really had to torque down the plexi plates to the mid-plates to get a consistent seal. I was losing pressure when I moved stuff over initially.

I don't plan on getting this into my pc until the weekend, maybe even a bit later so I'll be testing it daily for pressure leaks and drops many times over.  
 
I would have preferred the gasket to be a bit larger and wider, but we'll see how this seals up over a period of time.  The last time I converted my Kingpin I only checked it once before I put it into my loop and then did a whole system check.  They both passed but over time I think the block ended up leaking.  There was another users who also had his block pass the initial test but during a maintenance check found his was leaking so that is why I am doing a prolonged test period for mines.  

i am thinking the OEM hydrocopper block plus the MP5Works active backplate block is the way.  so much less hassle. 

For those that haven't seen it:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19qtHSW4lDVWK-skwolVmUHvsrdrfuQQ_ZJN5YtkG9xw/edit#gid=0
It is a tracker of the Optimus Kingpin waterblock orders. 
 
I am guessing that DemonHunters117 will be shipping shortly. Fingers crossed!
 
If you would like your Order Number entered into the tracker sheet, send me a PM and I will add it. 
Thanks, 
Jason
 

Jsunn
**clip** 
For those that have received their block, is there any way to tell the manufacture date? Not sure if Optimus has a rev number listed, or date built listed, but want to see if I am getting the latest version of the card with the stated improvements/fixes?
 

As far as I could tell with the block I had there's no way to tell the manufacture date.  I doubt anything has changed with the metal/plexi parts of the block itself, might be more difficult to update.  If anything, you would see improved gaskets for the backside.  The original gaskets fit in the channels very loosely and only had minimal protrusion above the metal surface, so potentially not the greatest seal.  If your gaskets appear to be a little larger and fit more snugly, then likely updated (but I haven't seen anything that indicated they finished updating the gaskets or are shipping with new gaskets.)
 
Only other potential place for improvement I would see would be in the coating, hopefully with the later batches they've had a chance to QA the coating more thoroughly.  

rangerscott
Anyone put liquid metal on there cerakoted block?

Not sure where you would apply LM to the Cerekote finish? LM is typically used between the GPU die and the cold plate. The cold plate will be either nickel plated or bare copper. The spacing for the VRAM I think is too large for the low viscosity of the LM between the RAM chips and the waterblock. 
 
But the LM would be intended to be used between the GPU bare die and the cold plate of the GPU, not for the RAM, VRMS, etc. 
-J

The Cold plate, that it makes actual contact with the GPU die is either plated nickel over copper or bare copper. Everything else is cerakoted. The Cold plate screws onto the GPU main plate.

rangerscott
Ooooooo. I thought the whole thing was coated. Wish they would put a pic of that on the website.

Cerakote is typically somewhat of a rougher/more abrasive finish. Cold plates would have to be perfectly smooth.

Jsunn and others, nothing to really check beforehand. Install was straight forward but take your time and follow it to the T. I'll have to take a closer look at my gaskets later when I'm home.

No doubt a hassle for some, but my experience has been a breeze thus far, and outperforms any other combinations available for this block.

Seems like a pci-e cable required waterblock.

Has anyone actually weighed an assembled card?

bavor

rblaes_99
It did not clear the x299 dark, the z590 dark, z590ftw, z690 dark.

Also, the KP 3090 with the Optimus block doesn't fit in the ASUS ROG Maximus XIII Apex if you use the heatsink on the NVMe drive.

Yet it fits the z690 Apex and Extreme