atfricoWatercooling parts are way more expensive than before, just a fyi. If you have the money, go for it. I would look for all the forums for a good deal on them.
aka_STEVE_bthe AIO are always going to be easier / cheaper . No muss, No fuss - they won't cool as great as a custom made stuff but close enough for 99% of people. I have the ability's & time to where I have thought about doing my own custom loops many times- but never got around to it .
atfricoThere were great deals before you posted it and yes they have great AIOs but with a cost. Hence is a choice you have to make between plug and play water cooling (AIOS) vs custom water cooling.
Nex_LupusOr will the parts still be favorably priced.
Nex_LupusatfricoThere were great deals before you posted it and yes they have great AIOs but with a cost. Hence is a choice you have to make between plug and play water cooling (AIOS) vs custom water cooling.So what all would I need for that case to set up my custom?
Grey_BeardNot mixing metals of the blocks and radiators
nick_shlGrey_BeardNot mixing metals of the blocks and radiatorsThis is not true. You can mix metals if you can't avoid it. But this metals should not to have electric contact between them.It is similar to primary(single-use or "disposable") battery: it stays fresh(without chemical reactions) for years if terminals aren't connected(open circuit).
Cool GTXThe liquid completes the circuit
Galvanic corrosion (also called bimetallic corrosion or dissimilar metal corrosion) is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially when it is in electrical contact with another, in the presence of an electrolyte. A similar galvanic reaction is exploited in primary cells to generate a useful electrical voltage to power portable devices.
nick_shlCool GTXThe liquid completes the circuitNope! Liquid it is electrolyte!Galvanic corrosion (also called bimetallic corrosion or dissimilar metal corrosion) is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially when it is in electrical contact with another, in the presence of an electrolyte. A similar galvanic reaction is exploited in primary cells to generate a useful electrical voltage to power portable devices.
kougarCool GTX is entirely correct, the liquid provides the electrical medium. Perhaps you should google what "Sacrificial Anodes" are and how they function in the open ocean on ships hulls.
notfordmanatfricoWatercooling parts are way more expensive than before, just a fyi. If you have the money, go for it. I would look for all the forums for a good deal on them.+1Watercooling is expensive in most examples. But I find the cooling and noise reduction is always worth it IMO. Please check out CoolGTX's thread, it has a lot of great info. I would recommend starting with soft tube. then later on if you want you could go to hard tube. Main difference is it looks better. [most of the time] Match your rads and fans for most effective use. If you use low fins per inch rads, {FPI}, then you can use low speed fans and have cool and quiet. I would also recommend using quality fans, that have decent CFM, and pressure. There are some rads that have a metal protector over the end of fan screws that won't let you puncture the cooling tubes. << not many offer this, so it's always good to make sure you have the right screws. Just take your time, and you will have the rig you want. Good luck!
Nike_7688As Grey Beard mentioned above, you'll want to make sure you plan for maintenance (draining, cleaning, refilling, etc.). Adding a valve somewhere (preferably near the bottom) in the loop will help tremendously. you can just leave the valve closed most of the time (can plug if nervous) and just add a fitting and tube down to an empty bucket/jug or whatever to drain the loop when you need to. It is a lot safer than trying to lift a giant PC up and hold at some kind of precarious angle to drain water from some port you just unplugged a year or two from now when you decide to drain and clean your loop. I'm not a PC water cooling expert, but have used lots of the parts at work for some water-cooling projects and have regretted any system that didn't have a drain valve planned in. As for your parts list, I have used some of EK's products (again, for work projects) and they have been of great quality in my experience. Also, holy crap that's a big radiator lol. Nice!
notfordmanI like the rad choice because of the multiple ports, makes plumbing choices easier at times. And also it's a good rad, I have the UT60 in mine. Be very mindful of the RGB power differences on your CPU block and Reservoir. There is D-RGB, and I think addressable. either 3 pin [5v] or 4 pin [12v]. Here is a little info on it: https://everyhometech.com/addressable-vs-non-addressable-rgb/ Silverstone makes some very solid PSU's nothing wrong with that. I just noticed your case you chose. I have liked those since I have seen them. Looks like it may be easy to build in. Enjoy your build, take your time, leak test is very important. Something I like to do is keep a spare pump, just in case. I had one that lasted a few years, and just replaced it. Problem is if you don't, you're down until you get one. I have had them last less time as well before. The drain is great advice for you. If you could configure it on the port you mentioned that could be cool. Or you can decide to add later. They are definitely helpful. :)https://www.amazon.com/s?...t&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
Nex_LupusSo picked my parts, probably spent more then I should have XD Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 560mm Radiator (14185)EK Quantum Velocity CPU block (intel) nickel/plexiThermaltake 900 tower (snow edition)EK-CryoFuel Blood Red (Premix 1000mL), yes im lazy EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 300 D5 PWM D-RGB - PlexiPrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 1/2" OD - Clear (PFLEXA-12)ARCTIC P14 PWM PST CO - Pressure-optimised 140 mm Fan with PWM & PST (PWM Sharing Technology) for Continuous Operation x8EKWB EK-Quantum Torque STC-10/13 Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/13mm (3/8" ID, 1/2" OD), Black Nickel, 6-pack Hopefully good picks. ALSO, picked some new parts to upgrade my wifes pc and my pc, hers via inheriting.Shes coming from a i5 7500 system very basic (high end basic) gaming computer I built for her years ago using some of my old parts with a 1060 SSC So my current system is basically a 5820k system in a rv03 case with an evga psu and 2 1070s (not TI) and a bunch of ssd taking all that plus 1 of the 1070s and giving it to her, basically just doing a fresh install. (so slight gpu upgrade for her too)selling that 1060 ill be kinda downgrading my gpu but only for sli games which from what i was told are far and few between.. so plan on getting a 3080 if they ever come down in price... But im sure you guys want to know what im getting for myself i9 10900x (hopefully got a good binning, s-spec is SRGV7)64 gigs vegence pro2 nvme 2tb PNY m.2s 1 1tb SSHD (hopefully works dont know how long ago I bought it but its still wrapped lol)SilverStone SST-ST1100-TI 1100W ATX12V 80 PLUS TITANIUM Certified Active PFC Power Supply, yes i know not evga but, only evga psu with over 1.1k psu that was also titanium certified was the supernova 1600 t2 and price at cheapest I could find was double the silverstone. Yes I know I would of had ample more power... but already dropped way too much as it was, at least I didnt buy a diablo psu.... XD (please tell me you guys remember those fire death traps?)
RainStryke Nice! Welcome to the custom cooling side! I see you went with the Torque fittings from EKWB, I have those too and love the way they look. However, I made the same mistake you did and bought the primochill tubing. If it's not opened yet, just return it and buy the EKWB tubing instead. It will save you from leaks, the primochill tubing is not compatible with EKWB fittings, even if it's the same spec.
notfordmanRainStryke Nice! Welcome to the custom cooling side! I see you went with the Torque fittings from EKWB, I have those too and love the way they look. However, I made the same mistake you did and bought the primochill tubing. If it's not opened yet, just return it and buy the EKWB tubing instead. It will save you from leaks, the primochill tubing is not compatible with EKWB fittings, even if it's the same spec. RainStryke, do you know why this is? Is it the metric/standard issue? Meaning Primo lists it as standard when it is not. You would think as long as the fittings and tube is same size it would work. ^^I've seen this on the hard line fittings/tube. Just curious: "the more you know"... Thx.