I'm building my first computer and am following a YouTube guide to build computers.  I got to the part where I was to hook up CPU, Ram, Drives, GPU, all hooked up to the Power Supply.  This is to see if your board is recognizing things.  I plugged in the Power Supply, turned on the back switch, hit the I/O [as instructed in Owner's Manual], then the motherboard power switch.  I got a bunch of numbers on the read out that quickly cycled through in quick fashion:  55, 7F, 02, 00, 20, 9F, 80, 61, 6A, 69, 24, 7F, 96, 97, 9C, a single beep, two beeps quickly, held on 9C longer, more beeps, 64, 9C, A2, different sounding beeps, A0, A2, held here for a second or so, A9, Reset light turns on and off quickly, Ab.  It held on the Ab from then on.
 
Most of these numbers flashed by so quickly [took a video] that I had a hard time catching them,...clicking the "pause/play" button on my video as fast as my thumb could click the mouse button.
 
Also, there are 9 tiny white LEDs on the board that were lit up [in an L shape pattern].
 
What does this all mean?

I'm using the EVGA Z690 Classified.  No operating system has been installed currently.  Corsair Dominator Platinum 32 GB [two 16 GB sticks].  EVGA 3080 Ti FTW3 Ultra. Samsung 980 1 TB [first slot].  Samsung 980 2 TB [second slot]. 
 
That's what I currently had during the test.
 
It did come up on the screen with the Bios and seemed to recognize the CPU [12700 i7], the RAM, and both NVMe.  
 
This has been a very tense kind of thing I'm doing.  All the parts are so expensive, so I want to be sure I don't break something or do something wrong. 
 
I appreciate any help/advice I can get.  :-)

Not exactly sure how to update Bios, but I'll look it up. I appreciate the chipset driver link! 
 
A side question.  My case has two sets of USB front inputs [total of four], but the Classified board only has one 19 pin connector.  I know that using a Y connector to plug all four into the one 19 pin port isn't a good idea.  Is there another option how I can make use of the other two USB 19 pin connection?

I appreciate the insight and suggestions.  Yes, I've never done anything with BIOS before.  Honestly, I'm extremely intimidated by the entire build.  There's a lot of money in this system and I don't want to ruin anything.  I'll look at/use all the links you provided. 
 
Thanks for the insight on the USB headers.  I'll take another look at the MB manual to make sure I'm finding all the headers I'm needing.

Thank you for your input as well, B0baganoosh!
 
I did have another question that I'm not totally certain on.  I am running rgb fans, all connected to a control box [will have software to download later].  It has a 15 pin SATA power cable.  Am I correct that this will be hooked into the SATA port on my PSU?  It seems reasonable that it should be.   Don't want to burn out my fans.

I have the 1000W EVGA G5 Supernova.
 
As of this moment, I have everything hooked up.  All the wires are in place.  The only thing I may do is get a vertical mount for the GPU as I think I may prefer that orientation.  Honestly,...I'm quite a bit nervous to proceed.  I'm a novice at this and if something isn't working, I may not have the knowledge base to satisfactorily trouble shoot it.  I'm going to download or look at all the links provided here tomorrow.  Do the BIOS Update.  The Chipset Driver.  Anything else required....and I hope it all goes well.

Don't worry about questions. There are plenty of us that just like to help people like yourself get into the hobby. We're all ignorant when we start, and over time and experiences (good and bad) we learn things.
 
You are correct that your SATA power cable from that port on the PSU is what goes into that controller if it has a SATA power plug on it. You will need the SATA cable (usually has 3 connectors on the end for different devices) that came with the PSU to go between the PSU and that controller.
 
One other tip before you turn things on that tends to catch people off guard is the memory slots. If you look at page 26 of your user manual, it shows that you want to populate slots 2 and 4 if you're using 2 sticks of memory. There's a nice picture there so you can tell which ones those are. Most people's first instinct is to put them in order (1 and 2 or 3 and 4) and that will cause them to not run correctly. You can boot, but you won't get full speed out of them.
 
Technically, you probably don't need to do any BIOS updates straight out of the gate just to get things running. The later BIOS updates for your motherboard will have things like memory speed stability improvements so it is definitely a good idea to do that step, but I just wanted to be clear that it isn't something that will cause damage if you forget or something. it's just going to help you to do that. So download all those drivers from the motherboard tab onto a thumb drive, they might be the same ones that came on the thumb drive with the motherboard though, so the BIOS might be the only one to update on there. Don't worry about the GeForce driver at first. You can update that later.
 
So once you have everything plugged in, hooked up and ready to turn on, you'll want to go into your BIOS. It will probably suggest that anyway as you don't have any OS installed and on your first boot the motherboard usually indicates that hardware has changed and asks if you want to go into the BIOS. Here's how I would proceed when you get into BIOS (I'm going from my use of the z590, but the BIOS menus and interface are very similar):
 
1. In the lower right corner there will be some helpful tips about what buttons do what. F12 is a handy one for taking a screenshot and saving it to the thumb drive plugged in so you can share it later if you want to post settings or get help with things. F5 is usually "load optimized defaults". On my first boot, I start with F5. That sets up what the motherboard thinks are the best default settings for your hardware.
 
2. In the upper left is a drop-down menu called "Extras". In there is an option for the BIOS update. if you have the BIOS file on your USB drive you can click that button, navigate to the file and follow the instructions. Do not reboot while it's doing that, just let it run and only hit buttons when it asks you to. Pulling power during a BIOS update is probably the most risky thing to happen during normal computer maintenance. Some people swear by UPS backups for that reason. I just make sure not to do this during a thunder storm lol. It's quite rare to just suddenly lose power where I live, but I just wanted to mention that there is some risk during that step. Your motherboard has 3 BIOS's technically (selectable with that 3-position bios selector switch). With that feature, you can always switch to a different position and recover, so it really isn't that dangerous with your hardware (don't panic!).
 
3. OK, so you have updated the BIOS. Get back in there and hit F5 again.
 
4. Go to the Boot tab. Turn off "Fast Boot". Click the CSM Configuration section and set CSM Support to Disabled. Back in the Boot tab set Boot mode Select to EUFI. You should see your hard drives show up under the Boot option #1-8 area. I usually set the OS drive to #1 and the USB key after that, but you may have other ways you want to do that. You can also boot directly to the USB drive that you have your Windows installation media on straight from the BIOS "Save & Exit" screen anytime you wan too, but let's keep going through this for now. If this was on Legacy by default, sometimes you have to reboot to get it to show your hard drives in the Boot options list. You can keep going through this list for now. Some of this might update after you actually install Windows too.
 
5. Go to the Advanced tab. Go into PCIe Configuration and set Resizable BAR and Above 4G memory assignment to Enabled. If your GPU is plugged into slot 1, "PE1" should show "x16 Gen4" on the right and if so, you can leave that drop down as "Auto".
 
6. Also in Advanced tab, you can go into your hardware monitoring and control settings (I can't remember what the option is called, but it brings you to the "Smart Fan" settings). In here, you'll want to set up your fan header modes to either PWM, DC, or leave them on Auto if nothing is plugged in. 4-pin fan connectors should be set at PWM, 3-pin fans are DC. I'm not sure what you have for case fans, CPU coolers, etc. so I can't give you specific instructions on what headers to set at what settings. What you will want to do is set up a fan curve for your CPU cooler, and you can also set up a fan curve for your case fans here. If you're using a USB fan controller, you might just do that in Windows with the software for that controller, but if you have fans plugged into the motherboard directly, this is where you do that. You click on the "Smart Fan Settings" button for that given header and it will let you adjust the fan power per sensor temperature. You can control that to CPU temperature, VRM temperature, etc. They don't give you a curve with dots like some BIOS do, but it's pretty straight forward to set 4 levels where your curve targets changes in temperature. Just make sure if you're setting fans for a CPU cooler that the input sensor is "[Temp.] CPU" and that way it will actually respond to your CPU's temperature when it adjust the fan speed accordingly.
 
7. Go to the Memory tab. I don't know what memory you have, but assuming it isn't anything crazy, you should be able to click on the memory profile drop-down and click "XMP Profile 1". Your mileage may vary here. Some people have trouble going over the 4800MHz spec for 12th gen Intel, but some people are running all the way up in the 6000-7000MHz range. With this motherboard, I would think something like 5200MHz or 5600MHz should be no problem, but going over that and this could get tricky. I'm not going to get into any overclocking with this little guide, but if you have some pretty standard memory, you should be able to run XMP Profile 1.
 
8. Now that all that is set up, go to the "Save & Exit" tab. Save this Profile. Name it something. You can also export this profile to a USB drive so that if you ever update the BIOS again (which wipes all settings) or end up trying the different BIOS switch positions for troubleshooting at some future date, you can load the profile from the USB disk and save having to do all that tweaking again. Then hit the save and exit button and reboot the computer. At this point, your motherboard has to train the memory, so it might take a little longer to boot this time. Be patient, give it a minute. If your POST indicator LEDs cycle through and cycle through, that's pretty normal. If it won't post and gives a consistent error about the memory, you can always hit the Clear CMOS button on the I/O shield and try to reload the profile. If this does happen, it's probably that XMP setting. So go back into memory and set it back to default. This probably won't happen, but if it does, folks here can try to give you some advice later, but I just wanted to let you know what to do just in case. Anyway, assuming it booted fine, I always like to go back into the BIOS one more time just to see that the memory is set at the XMP setting properly. Go back to the "Save & Exit" tab. There should be a button there where you can click on it and boot directly to your USB drive that has your Windows Installation media. Time to install Windows.
 
9+. You can download your GeForce Drivers straight from Nvidia once you're in Windows. I also use EVGA's Precision X1 for my fan control, GPU's RGB, Overclocking the GPU, getting any firmware and vBIOS updates, etc. Other helpful software that I like to install for tweaking settings, monitoring things, troubleshooting, etc.: GPUz, CPUz, HWiNFO64, 3DMark (benchmarking tool you can get through Steam), Cinebench r23 (CPU benchmarking tool that's handy for stress testing and finding out how your cooling is handling your CPU).
 
 
I...should probably get back to work lol. But anyway, hopefully that helps you run through your BIOS settings. A side note: you can likely skip just about any of that and your computer will still boot, it'll work, and you can run things. Disabling CSM and enabling EUFI boot mode should force your Windows install to format your drive correctly with GPT boot formatting, so that one is good to do.
 
Feel free to let us know if you have questions on any of this or get stuck somewhere.
 
Edit: I almost forgot, but things tend to boot so fast past the splash screen these days...you get into the BIOS by pressing the Delete key during boot. I tend to spam the key until it shows me the BIOS select screen lol. I hadn't mentioned that button before and if you've never done this before, you might not know that, so I thought it would be helpful to edit this with that info.

Those are PWM fans on your CPU cooler. So you can put those headers on PWM mode (step 6 above) and then set your temperature profile in the Smart Fan Settings for that header to ramp at the temperatures you want them to ramp to.
 
You're likely perfectly fine with that memory to turn on the XMP Profile 1 per step 7.
 
So yeah, looks good to go. Take your time, don't panic, and have fun!

First turn on didn't go so well.  I made a quick video and placed it on YouTube [because I wasn't sure if a video could be added to this site].
 
Some numbers show up, some beeps,...then 5 "ominous beeps", and some codes.  Everything appears to be fully plugged in.
 
Edited to add:   I guess I can't include a YouTube link.  Not sure how I can explain what happened. 
 
Look up 'DL Music Production', and it will be the only "Shorts".

RAVENEVGA
First turn on didn't go so well.  I made a quick video and placed it on YouTube [because I wasn't sure if a video could be added to this site].
 
Some numbers show up, some beeps,...then 5 "ominous beeps", and some codes.  Everything appears to be fully plugged in.
 
Edited to add:   I guess I can't include a YouTube link.  Not sure how I can explain what happened. 
 
Look up 'DL Music Production', and it will be the only "Shorts".

Ah yes the angry beeps. d6 is a video out issue. I used to get that sometimes until I updated my gpu's vBIOS. The 3080ti is especially prone to this until you update the vBIOS. I see it goes past that and I think A9 just means it's in BIOS.
Some questions for you: Do you get display out eventually? Is your monitor hooked up to the video card? Are you using HDMI or DisplayPort? If you get display output, can you get into the BIOS Setup?
If you didn't have a monitor plugged in, it could just be giving the error because of that (I'm not 100% sure on that, but I think its possible).
 
If you did have your monitor plugged in and you never get any display on it, you might have the common DisplayID issue that some 3080ti's have. A little trick that seemed to always work for my 3080ti when I got the d6 issue was that I'd just hit the reset button on the case. The second boot worked fine every time. So a cold boot (from power totally off) would give me a d6 error, I'd wait until it got past all the POST codes, then hit the reset button and it would boot fine.
 
Also, with your 12700k CPU (assuming it isn't a 12700KF), you can plug your monitor directly into the motherboard's display output and do your BIOS tweaks, get Windows installed, and eventually go here to update your GPU's firmware to fix that issue. You may also just be able to switch to an HDMI cable to get into your BIOS using the video card before updating the firmware.
 
In addition to what Bee_Dee said about post count, you can just put the "/shorts/uuynPbB-zoI" text that goes after youtube.com. Sometimes one of the mods will help edit your post to put the link in there if they happen across it (at least, until you get to that 30 post requirement). Just to make it easier on anyone else that wants to look, here is the video.

RAVENEVGA
I did have the cable attached to the GPU.  I was using the DisplayPort cable this time.  Before, was using HDMI and did get to the BIOS Setup screen.  That was when I had everything out of the case and just running the Memory, NVMe drives, CPU, and GUP.  I want to use DisplayPort for the build though. 
 
Can I do an "update BIOS" if I don't have monitor showing?
 
I'll give the reset a try.
 
My CPU is the 12700K.  No "F". 
 
Thanks for the info on the video and post counts for this board.  It totally makes sense that it would be required.  If I decide to post another video, I'll do that.  :-)
 
Again, I have greatly appreciated  your help! 

 Can you get into the BIOS Setup?
 
 
 
 

Load Optimal Defaults.
Then Save and Exit.
Then see if u can get back into BIOS.
 
If u can then look at https://forums.evga.com/FindPost/3524447 
^^ that's a thread i started when i 1st built my Classified.
U can ignore my 1st post on ^^. And go read the suggestions Cool GTX gave me.
 
The big difference between my build and urs is, ur going to have OS on an M.2 SSD and i have mine OS on an SSD.
 
But using Optimal defaults and the settings Cool GTX told me to set is hopefully all u need.
 
Edit: Ur Temps look normal. These CPUs are TjMax 100C. i play games for hours and briefly hit Max high 70's.
 

 
Edit 2:
Create ur sig. (so everyone can see ur Hardware at the bottom of every post u make.)
1. Go to ur "User Control Panel" (link to it is at the top of every Forum page).
2. On left side click on, "Signature and Comment".
3. Copy My Sig and change the Hardware to urs.
4. Below "Signature and Comment" click on, "Save Profile".

RAVENEVGA
I was able to pop in back at my apartment to see any replies. 
 
I looked at the link you gave from Cool GTX and it looks like I have configured things as stated. 
 
I'm just not sure about the Update BIOS part, using the small flashdrive.  Which one of the following options would I want to use? 
[System Volume Information]
[Manual]
[Wallpapers]
[Drivers]
EVGAE698.bin
 
The other thing I was uncertain about, on that link, was when he said, "I would also only have your Boot Drive installed, until after the OS is loaded".  I'm not sure what this means.  My boot drive is my NVMe drive, right?  It's already in the motherboard.  Am I missing something?
 
Also, I did do the Signature line. 

Don't bother with the BIOS update for now. I'm still using version 1.03 that came with my Classified and it works fine.
 
As far as "I would also only have your Boot Drive installed, until after the OS is loaded" goes, wat that translates to:
Just a Mouse, Keyboard, Monitor and a single M.2 SSD.
 
A nice thing to do with the manual is if u have two monitors running on a nearby PC; is to place two copies of the manual onto that PC. That way u can have two separate pages up at same time. I've never found the need for having three pages open, but two pages open is very helpful at times.
 
 
 

Okay, thanks again guys. 
 
I'll just have to install with both drives in.  They are under the big Classified heat shield,...which is now blocked to get to by the GPU.  I'll use Drive 0.
 
On the video cables, it did start working with the DisplayPort. 
 
I'll go back into bios and mess with the rpms for the fans. 

I ran out of time today, so will pick all this up after work tomorrow.
 
I will be installing Windows 11 Pro on this machine.
 
I did have....what probably would be considered....a "dumb question".  After Windows is installed, can I go back into that BIOS screen, or is that no longer an option....nor would be a good idea?  My current old computer doesn't appear to have an option to get to BIOS. 

So I downloaded Window from the flashdrive I purchased. 
 
The issues:
 
1. I connected an ethernet cable to the computer and it wasn't recognized.  It had a green occasional flashing light, but my router showed orange [should be white if working].  I'm unable to get internet connection.  Troubleshooting says, "The Intel(R) Ethernet Controller 1225-V adapter is experiencing driver or hardware related problems.  It was unable to fix it. 
 
2. I am only seeing the 1TB drive in File Explorer in the C drive spot [and it only shows the 1TB].  When I check properties and on the Hardware Tab, I can see both drives and the second shows that it is the 2TB drive.  Am I supposed go to its Properties and click the Update Driver button?
 
3. Not sure why, because this board is supposed to come with Realtek sound, but it isn't showing up. 
 
4. The number pad on my keyboard isn't working.
 
5. I'm unable to change the resolution on my monitor.  That function is greyed out.  And the whole screen icons are big. 
 
Are these all "need drivers installed" type of things, or is there something else I missed in BIOS?  I'm not sure why the ethernet ports aren't working. 
 
I'm beginning to see why people just have something built for them or get a pre-built.  :-/