Glad the psu swap worked.

ya, I had some issues with   PrecisionX   but  I uninstalled it  and like a day or 2 later  after trying afterburner  I went back it [ PrecisionX ]  and it worked great the 2ed time  or something  .  it was kinda funny  but I still got it installed  and use it from time to time   I don't let anything auto run  at start up if I can help it   I prefer to boot to as clean a desktop as I can  so to say then if I need something I then fire it up  ..    but no I do not let it run full time   I open it and run it when I want to use it   99% of the time my card just runs box stock  it does all I ask of it just at that for everyday use  and games ..  seem like as well that start up issue with  PrecisionX  is common you see around  may dig up posts around here at evga forums on that 
 
https://forums.evga.com/EVGA-Precision-X-16-Not-starting-with-Windows-m2331358.aspx
 
 
 
fan speed ???   cant really say I use a 980ti hybrid and it don't get over 48c  full load pounding on it stock fan speed , so I don't have full experience on that  like with a air cooled card  , but you do see a lot of guys screwing with these fans and profiles around  to try to make them work like in the good old days   I guess that's a trial and error  thing you got to do on your card to find whats best for you  kinda thing
 
if you got a dual bios card I think one bios the fans run ''normal '' and not that -0- fan way
 
https://forums.evga.com/Question-regarding-fan-curves-with-the-980-ti-ACX-20-m2353571.aspx
 
https://forums.evga.com/Question-About-PrecisionX16-and-Fan-Curves-m2466648.aspx

Sajin

WNear
Another quick question...
 
I used to use PrecisionX to monitor the clock speeds and setup a custom profile to control the fans on the board. I stopped using PrecisionX because it wouldn't always load up automatically when rebooting the system (I had to manually start it).
 
So, I started using Afterburner to do the same thing and it always loaded just fine.
 
Does everyone install one of these programs for this purpose or do you just let the board control the fans all on its own?
 
The reason I ask is because I like keeping the GPU reasonably cool and not letting it get that hot before the board kicks the fans in on its own.
 
Also, will the board vary the fan speed depending on load/temp or are they at a fixed RPM? I don't hear it spinning up faster as I play those games, but if I have my custom profile setup, I do hear it going faster due to my settings.
 
Thanks!
 

First question is pretty much a yes. Second question: Yes, but the curve is optimized for silence over temps.
 

I'm the opposite. I'm not concerned with the noise. :)

I use Afterburner.
I do not have it launch with windows. I launch it before I start playing games, because the default fan settings on this card are stupid dumb, and the card reaches excess temp limit within 2 minutes, then starts throttling. So, I set it to 100% fan speed while playing games (and sometimes have to even when just web browsing, as the card seems to reach higher and higher temps as I am just browsing for a long while).
I also set the Priority to Temperature Target instead of Power Target, since this Titan X card is nothing but a furnace, and NEEDS to be set this way, or things go very bad for me.
But, if you arent having any heat issues, then just a little better curve should do you.
 
As for the PSU's issues:
It sounds like you might have 'dirty power', or 'dirty wiring' in your house/neigborhood/town.
This will take out your power supplies pretty fast, if you have brown outs, black outs, static electricity, or just dirty power lines in the house or town.
 
I would suggest you get a GOOD UPS (as in, NOT green power at all, or switching, or smart, or power saving).
Get one with PURE sine wave (the new power supplies dont tend to like the simulated sine wave UPS' ), with more power than what your system can do at 100% usage.
My power supply is (well, was, until EVGA sent me a higher wattage one) a 1300W unit. I put my Computer, Monitor, and Modem/router on the UPS, and I got a 2200VA UPS (it is a rack server UPS, that has feet on it so it can be used in non-server racks, as in just a home system).
 
Similar to mine, except mine has 12 outlets on the back:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102121&cm_re=cyberpower-_-42-102-121-_-Product
Now, mine, I had to put in a 20 amp line for, as it has the 20 amp connector and requires a real 20amp fuse/20amp copper lines/20amp outlet, but it didnt take much to have an electrician put a line in (yes, I have 1 outlet dedicated to my computer), especially seeing as how much we spend on our computers. If you go this route, make sure they use REAL 20amp copper lines, as using 15 amp copper lines will cause a fire. You CANT just put a 20amp outlet on a 15 amp line. It will melt the copper wires and cause a fire inside your walls!
Its worth it to protect yourself. See if you have a friend, or friend of a friend who is a certified electric worker, and you can save lots of money if he will do it on the side, and it will still be up to code.
 
A PURE SINE UPS will cost more, but trust me its worth it. It will clean your power to your machine, and like I said, almost all new psu's really require pure sine to work properly (they WILL work w/o pure sine, but may trigger the psu's extra internal check mechanisms, making the psu power itself off, or other things, sometimes it just plain old wont even power on). Also, the warranty will be much better (usually 5 years, sometimes 8 years, maybe even 10 years, depending on which you get).
 
I have had APC (which nowadays are just junk, unless you buy the server grade ones. Well, thats true of ALL of them though, so....), another I cant remember (Belkin maybe?) that wasnt any good, then I now have, and have had for many many many years, Cyberpower. I have had 1 Cyberpower UPS go out on me (out of maybe 7?), and that lasted 8 years and it only had a 5 year warranty.
 
I also used a lot of APC's when I worked for Symantec (14 years), and every single APC went out on me RIGHT after the warranty expired, or right before it expired, so beware. They were also the cheaper/mid-range models, not the server grade ones, so also be aware of that. 
 
Anyway, glad you got it sorted out, and that you dont have to rma the card.

Dr.Death
I guess all you can do is send in the see sick sonic  . I sure hate it for you on 2 PSU's like that   . got to say that's bad luck for 2 units to go down on you like that  . may better RMA it so you have another back up unit if you go to round 3 [lets hope not ]     did each PSU last about the same time frame  before you got issues with them ?
 
you would think even with all that stuff you had hanging on it a 1200w should be good to go   its not like you had 2 or 4 GPUS hanging on it as well   then drives aint eating up all that power .
 
 
anyway glad you got it straight on that and all seems good  
 
Good Luck and Enjoy

I went to the Seasonic site today and setup the RMA.
 
My PC Power & Cooling 1200w PSU was purchased in 2008. It lasted until 2014 (6 years). That unit cost just under $600 new.
 
My Seasonic 1200w PSU was purchased to replace the failed PC Power & Cooling PSU in 2014. The Sesonic ($300) lasted almost 3.5 years.
 
I now have the refurb PC Power & Cooling in my system and everything is good, so far.
 
So, ten years and almost $900 later, I'll have two refurb PSUs. What a disappointment.

Dave3d
I use Afterburner.
I do not have it launch with windows. I launch it before I start playing games, because the default fan settings on this card are stupid dumb, and the card reaches excess temp limit within 2 minutes, then starts throttling. So, I set it to 100% fan speed while playing games (and sometimes have to even when just web browsing, as the card seems to reach higher and higher temps as I am just browsing for a long while).
I also set the Priority to Temperature Target instead of Power Target, since this Titan X card is nothing but a furnace, and NEEDS to be set this way, or things go very bad for me.
But, if you arent having any heat issues, then just a little better curve should do you.
 
As for the PSU's issues:
It sounds like you might have 'dirty power', or 'dirty wiring' in your house/neigborhood/town.
This will take out your power supplies pretty fast, if you have brown outs, black outs, static electricity, or just dirty power lines in the house or town.
 
I would suggest you get a GOOD UPS (as in, NOT green power at all, or switching, or smart, or power saving).
Get one with PURE sine wave (the new power supplies dont tend to like the simulated sine wave UPS' ), with more power than what your system can do at 100% usage.
My power supply is (well, was, until EVGA sent me a higher wattage one) a 1300W unit. I put my Computer, Monitor, and Modem/router on the UPS, and I got a 2200VA UPS (it is a rack server UPS, that has feet on it so it can be used in non-server racks, as in just a home system).
 
Similar to mine, except mine has 12 outlets on the back:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102121&cm_re=cyberpower-_-42-102-121-_-Product
Now, mine, I had to put in a 20 amp line for, as it has the 20 amp connector and requires a real 20amp fuse/20amp copper lines/20amp outlet, but it didnt take much to have an electrician put a line in (yes, I have 1 outlet dedicated to my computer), especially seeing as how much we spend on our computers. If you go this route, make sure they use REAL 20amp copper lines, as using 15 amp copper lines will cause a fire. You CANT just put a 20amp outlet on a 15 amp line. It will melt the copper wires and cause a fire inside your walls!
Its worth it to protect yourself. See if you have a friend, or friend of a friend who is a certified electric worker, and you can save lots of money if he will do it on the side, and it will still be up to code.
 
A PURE SINE UPS will cost more, but trust me its worth it. It will clean your power to your machine, and like I said, almost all new psu's really require pure sine to work properly (they WILL work w/o pure sine, but may trigger the psu's extra internal check mechanisms, making the psu power itself off, or other things, sometimes it just plain old wont even power on). Also, the warranty will be much better (usually 5 years, sometimes 8 years, maybe even 10 years, depending on which you get).
 
I have had APC (which nowadays are just junk, unless you buy the server grade ones. Well, thats true of ALL of them though, so....), another I cant remember (Belkin maybe?) that wasnt any good, then I now have, and have had for many many many years, Cyberpower. I have had 1 Cyberpower UPS go out on me (out of maybe 7?), and that lasted 8 years and it only had a 5 year warranty.
 
I also used a lot of APC's when I worked for Symantec (14 years), and every single APC went out on me RIGHT after the warranty expired, or right before it expired, so beware. They were also the cheaper/mid-range models, not the server grade ones, so also be aware of that. 
 
Anyway, glad you got it sorted out, and that you dont have to rma the card.

Hi,
 
Yes, I prefer Afterburner as well.
 
My system is used in a smoke/pet free environment. We use humidifiers in the winter time to cut down on static electricity.
 
My system is always hooked to an APC SMT-1500 UPS that I bought about 10 years ago for $500. http://www.apc.com/shop/u...500?isCurrentSite=true

Dr.Death

WNear

Dr.Death
I guess all you can do is send in the see sick sonic  . I sure hate it for you on 2 PSU's like that   . got to say that's bad luck for 2 units to go down on you like that  . may better RMA it so you have another back up unit if you go to round 3 [lets hope not ]     did each PSU last about the same time frame  before you got issues with them ?
 
you would think even with all that stuff you had hanging on it a 1200w should be good to go   its not like you had 2 or 4 GPUS hanging on it as well   then drives aint eating up all that power .
 
 
anyway glad you got it straight on that and all seems good  
 
Good Luck and Enjoy

I went to the Seasonic site today and setup the RMA.
 
My PC Power & Cooling 1200w PSU was purchased in 2008. It lasted until 2014 (6 years). That unit cost just under $600 new.
 
My Seasonic 1200w PSU was purchased to replace the failed PC Power & Cooling PSU in 2014. The Sesonic ($300) lasted almost 3.5 years.
 
I now have the refurb PC Power & Cooling in my system and everything is good, so far.
 
So, ten years and almost $900 later, I'll have two refurb PSUs. What a disappointment.

 
I know the feeling ,  with my ''LAST'' asus  build .  what a joke
 
now look at this flim flam from EVGA  . looks like you cant trust anything you buy from them  and feel you got what you paid for  cause now I sure as heck don't  now .
 
https://forums.evga.com/Is-this-new-or-refurbished-m2772921.aspx#2774548

I  just read through that thread! Wow!

vick1000
Just curious, but why are you using 1200w Power Supplies?
 
Are you planning on going SLI at some point?
 
Those 1200w units are overkill in your signature rig.

Overkill? A PSU runs most efficient between ~
 
40-70% of its rated capacity.  While 1200 might be a bit oversized for his system, a LEPA 1600 would be overkill IMO...
 
Lastly... I hope whoever bought their UPS 10 years ago is on his 2nd or third set of batteries. 3 years is about tops.

Dave3d
I bought my cyberpower 2200 in 2004?
It died in  2012.
I then bought new batteries for it, but the pcb went out on the unit a year layer, in 2013.
I bought another identical 2200 in 2013, and am still using it w/o incident now.
 
So, 3 years is garbage for a ups, imo. 

I said the batteries. RIF ya know?

WNear

vick1000
Just curious, but why are you using 1200w Power Supplies?
 
Are you planning on going SLI at some point?
 
Those 1200w units are overkill in your signature rig.

Because when I build a system I use a PSU calculator to assess my needs for any particular system. I was using SLI early on and I don't play the game of saving $50 on a PSU and cutting it to the bare bones in wattage needs. PSUs don't run efficiently at 90% usage. So, I opt for overkill. After all, it's my money.
 
What's pathetic is that I can buy $500 PSUs that last only six years.

That's okay as long as the warranty is 7... I don't get the confusion over sizing a power supply. For some reason, folks have the idea that getting one a bit larger than what you *really need is inefficient when exactly the opposite is true.

Dr.Death
YA,  having overhead in your PSU is far better that finding out the one you got just aint cutting it   when you OC or add more powerful parts in a upgrade and then your now looking to buy another new PSU to make up that..   in the end one good ''overpowered'' PSU is still cheaper then having to buy  2 PSU's   over a oops
 
I looked at PSU's and thought !! WOW !! they gone up in price  a lot  ..   I guess them miners  are to blame  ..    in a older thread here like a week or so ago   I put it  ''I hate to be in need of a PSu right now ''  like this from evga was like 129$  now look  180$    been as cheap as 95 bucks  [maybe a referb PSU evga was passing off as brand new  like I see they now can do ]
 
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438018
 
anyway best I know seasonic does a good RMA  and don't give much hassle   just getting it  to them is the biggest one     I don't think they do pay shipping  thing  and the weight of the unit is what the post office likes  ,,
 
lets face it  still cheaper then a brand new unit in the end  ..   you got your back up unit in and all seems good  just maile it in for a replacement and put it on the shelve  for your next psu emergency  [but lets hope not ]

Exactly. I overclock and used to run SLI back then. I still overclock and more is better when it comes to PSUs. I just wish the top-of-the-line was more top-of-the-line, LOL.
 
Seasonic's process seems pretty tight. You submit the RMA request. They reveiw it and then send you an Email with instructions (RMA #, address, how to pack, blah blah). They also have a dedicated page for your return where you enter the tracking number of your shipment (your expense to them), they then update the site when they receive the package and keep you updated on a turnaround date.
 
They pay the return shipping for your repaired PSU, or an equivalent one that they choose (I'm hoping they repair mine!)
 
When I get it back, it'll sit in the box (just like the PC P & C unit did) until I need it someday. Hopefully that day never comes for my current system, but I know better. $500 & $300 PSUs fail too. :(

The newer generations of hardware progressively get more efficient, there is little need for a 1200w PSU for a single card system on a modern motherboard with a modern single mainstream CPU.
 
I am curious as to how you calculated needing 40-70% of a 1200w PSU, with the system in your sig, even while OCing. Now SLI with a Threadripper or Intel X-series, I understand.

kinda odd that you went through 2 nice PSU's  that were not low build quality  so to say units that fast    I could see one just out of bad luck   heck I got some still going that like 16 years old  . this newest one is a seasonic  x series 850w   that's like 10 now and in its 3ed build  . [KNOCK ON WOOD] hope I just did not jinx myself ..
 
that still not to say I never had one just go out or  POP / exploded /OCZ,   but those were units I had before I started looking in to the units build quality  and platforms used . 
 
 
I don't know what model  PC Power & Cooling 1200w PSU you got but the ones I looked at use superflower  platforms   and there top notch  and some use Win-Tact  PSU platform [??? ] first I run across .
 
got them guts crammed in like sardines  on that win-tact  [looks like they used the PCB's to build a fort in it ]
 
https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/PC-Power-amp-Cooling-Turbo-Cool-1200W-PSU-Review/Under-Hood-Contd
 
more open to cooling air flow on the SuperFlower
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=304

I don't know whats best there  just as long I get back something that works  and get the expected life / use out of it  .
 
LOL...  ''Now I have the refurb one that you can tell the previous owner was a smoker (yuk)''    all in my house smoked and I did not but  after I left home I then see what you mean   and now like you say if I get any parts here to work on  it sticks out  / yup from a smoker or run In a room with smokers ..   that tar and smell sticks to things like glue  .  evga will not take a part back from a smoker its in there terms  [warrantee / rma  terms  - Exposure to cigarette tar residue, dampness, sand, dirt or excessive debris.]
 
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1620&styleid=8
 
sites like these  when you start to look at PSU  to see whats said can help  .  
 
looking at this could be superflower has gone over to the cheaper side on some platforms  ?
 
https://www.techpowerup.com/229784/superflower-announces-the-upcoming-double-forward-platform-for-their-psus
 
I a firm believer now in what tat guy said   '' still maintain if you're paying top dollar for a PSU, they should pony up for Japanese caps, if only for the feel-goods it gives some users.''   no one comes close to there manufacturing of them   they may try  thats about it

could be just household like the room is powered by one wire from the fuse box ?   I ran a independent  wire for the fuse box to this room dedicated to just my computer stuff  and bumped up the gauge of wire   to thicker  from what was used when the house was built  they did about as cheap a job as they could  to cut costs I guess ..
 
then I gues you buy a 7 warrantee year PSU and expect to go at least 10+ on it
 
if you do decide to do a UPS  just do your homework on them    be sure you get what you think you paid for   .   I ended up just saying screw it . 
 
this looks to do the job  and good hold up power  to get out of a mess  .   just don't know about cyberpower  branded stuff  . its not like I would pick there computers  ,but ??
 
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W