eXp67

pellaaa

eXp67
I just installed XC3 bios on my FTW3 Ultra.
Freq are really unstable compared to XOC. Benchmark are really lower than with XOC.
In benchmark the freq jump from 1000 to 2200 continusly. What could be the problem ?
Does it possible to lock the boost clock in AB like PX1 ? I didn't see that possibility.

mmm this is quite strange, for me is perfectly working in both gaming and benchmarking... did you reset ab profile before flashing? try ddu and driver clean install after bios flash.

Hello,
 
Thanks for help.
Effectively after a DDU clean, it was working.
 
But it seems it perf more with XOC 500W bios than with XC3 bios. (PL 14k vs 13.5).
Even if PCI-E stays at 66W/75W max, i cannot push 500W easy, and stay around 440W average.
 
So i tested the 1000W, and all is magic. Absolutly no perf DROP, 14,6K at PR.
As i'm on aircooling i just set the TDP to 550W (can push 600W easy but no good for heat)
My temp are acceptable, getting a + 7/8°C over XOC, i never excess 90°C on hard game and avg at 85°C.
Very satisfied with that 1000W bios which push easly 550W AVG on aircooling and get my clock very stable in game.
 
Regards,

be careful with the 1000w bios.... it has no protection if something goes wrong you loose the card

Press F to pay respects.

Please post back here when your system crisps, as others would benefit from hearing about it. (People aren't joking about the no protections - the VRMs, the VRAM (this one seems the most likely, with the non-cooled VRAM stack on the back of the card), and everything else that there might be - the card will not stop until something gives out with the unlocked, warranty voiding 1000W Kingpin VBIOS)

eXp67

arestavo
Press F to pay respects.

Please post back here when your system crisps, as others would benefit from hearing about it. (People aren't joking about the no protections - the VRMs, the VRAM (this one seems the most likely, with the non-cooled VRAM stack on the back of the card), and everything else that there might be - the card will not stop until something gives out with the unlocked, warranty voiding 1000W Kingpin VBIOS)

You mean that temp that i reported was too much ?
I'll inevitably kill my card with the 1000W on aircooled ?
From 500W XOC to 550W unlocked, i see not so much difference with temp?
I never see the card bottlenecking because of too hot with the VRAM on XOC.
 
If you confirm at 100% that i'll kill my card, i'm doing a rollback now hehe.
 
Best regards,

its not killing the card actually, but if in future something goes wrong and temp get really high the card won't shutdown till it start burning because it doesnt have any protetction on

Ya I was able to get 12581 with my 3080 ultra. I have the hybrid kit installed.

eXp67

pellaaa

eXp67

arestavo
Press F to pay respects.

Please post back here when your system crisps, as others would benefit from hearing about it. (People aren't joking about the no protections - the VRMs, the VRAM (this one seems the most likely, with the non-cooled VRAM stack on the back of the card), and everything else that there might be - the card will not stop until something gives out with the unlocked, warranty voiding 1000W Kingpin VBIOS)

You mean that temp that i reported was too much ?
I'll inevitably kill my card with the 1000W on aircooled ?
From 500W XOC to 550W unlocked, i see not so much difference with temp?
I never see the card bottlenecking because of too hot with the VRAM on XOC.
 
If you confirm at 100% that i'll kill my card, i'm doing a rollback now hehe.
 
Best regards,

its not killing the card actually, but if in future something goes wrong and temp get really high the card won't shutdown till it start burning because it doesnt have any protetction on

Okay.
I'll be aware of the temperature.
It is sure that with that setup, the GPU will not like a burning at 100% during long minutes/hours.
 
Will buy a EK ASAP and waterblock it. Will be my first watercooling EK :)
I needed to watercool the CPU (5950X) anyway which has good potential at stable 5ghz :)

Just make sure EVERYTHING that currently has TIM/pads on it has EXTREMELY good contact - and the back side VRAM will likely need a fan blowing on the backplate if you don't have water running through it (I saw 1 waterblock with active cooling on the backplate). Hot spots where icx sensors aren't at will kill that component, and again - with a warranty void VBIOS on the card, you have a $1800+ door stop when EVGA laughs at you for trying to RMA with that on it. Normal VBIOSs have limits on temperature as well that a user cannot see (each VRAM chip for sure, perhaps other things) - that's why using that unlocked VBIOS as a daily driver is insane (unless you literally have money to burn).
 
As to any guarantee that your card will or won't fry itself - I guarantee nothing. You're the one playing with fire, so you do you.

arestavo
Press F to pay respects.

Please post back here when your system crisps, as others would benefit from hearing about it. (People aren't joking about the no protections - the VRMs, the VRAM (this one seems the most likely, with the non-cooled VRAM stack on the back of the card), and everything else that there might be - the card will not stop until something gives out with the unlocked, warranty voiding 1000W Kingpin VBIOS)

Don't be so negative. Let him use the 1000w bios if he wants. It isn't going to kill his card with 50 more watts. He knows the warranty is gone. Just let him have fun. Just because you and I don't want to use it doesn't mean its going to fry his card.

P4R4DiSi4C

arestavo
 
Just make sure EVERYTHING that currently has TIM/pads on it has EXTREMELY good contact - and the back side VRAM will likely need a fan blowing on the backplate if you don't have water running through it (I saw 1 waterblock with active cooling on the backplate). Hot spots where icx sensors aren't at will kill that component, and again - with a warranty void VBIOS on the card, you have a $1800+ door stop when EVGA laughs at you for trying to RMA with that on it. Normal VBIOSs have limits on temperature as well that a user cannot see (each VRAM chip for sure, perhaps other things) - that's why using that unlocked VBIOS as a daily driver is insane (unless you literally have money to burn).
 
As to any guarantee that your card will or won't fry itself - I guarantee nothing. You're the one playing with fire, so you do you.

Hey sir,
 
I'm using XC3 on my FTW, does everything looks fine to you or should I be worried ? (it works fine on COD:Cold War but I need to lower OC Core Clock if I dont want Flight Simulator to crash)
 
(check max values (low wattage being reported but better scores) and perfacap green ?)
 

port royal score is quite low

Notchy44

pellaaa

P4R4DiSi4C

arestavo

Just make sure EVERYTHING that currently has TIM/pads on it has EXTREMELY good contact - and the back side VRAM will likely need a fan blowing on the backplate if you don't have water running through it (I saw 1 waterblock with active cooling on the backplate). Hot spots where icx sensors aren't at will kill that component, and again - with a warranty void VBIOS on the card, you have a $1800+ door stop when EVGA laughs at you for trying to RMA with that on it. Normal VBIOSs have limits on temperature as well that a user cannot see (each VRAM chip for sure, perhaps other things) - that's why using that unlocked VBIOS as a daily driver is insane (unless you literally have money to burn).

As to any guarantee that your card will or won't fry itself - I guarantee nothing. You're the one playing with fire, so you do you.

Hey sir,

I'm using XC3 on my FTW, does everything looks fine to you or should I be worried ? (it works fine on COD:Cold War but I need to lower OC Core Clock if I dont want Flight Simulator to crash)

(check max values (low wattage being reported but better scores) and perfacap green ?)

port royal score is quite low

its not really THAT low lol. Within 1-2 fps of my score. Anything over 14k is a win in my book. Without water or extreme low temps your not seeing over 14k

Im on air and easily reaching 70 degrees celsius..was getting 12.7k with other bioses.

P4R4DiSi4C

Notchy44

pellaaa

P4R4DiSi4C

arestavo

Just make sure EVERYTHING that currently has TIM/pads on it has EXTREMELY good contact - and the back side VRAM will likely need a fan blowing on the backplate if you don't have water running through it (I saw 1 waterblock with active cooling on the backplate). Hot spots where icx sensors aren't at will kill that component, and again - with a warranty void VBIOS on the card, you have a $1800+ door stop when EVGA laughs at you for trying to RMA with that on it. Normal VBIOSs have limits on temperature as well that a user cannot see (each VRAM chip for sure, perhaps other things) - that's why using that unlocked VBIOS as a daily driver is insane (unless you literally have money to burn).

As to any guarantee that your card will or won't fry itself - I guarantee nothing. You're the one playing with fire, so you do you.

Hey sir,

I'm using XC3 on my FTW, does everything looks fine to you or should I be worried ? (it works fine on COD:Cold War but I need to lower OC Core Clock if I dont want Flight Simulator to crash)

(check max values (low wattage being reported but better scores) and perfacap green ?)

port royal score is quite low

its not really THAT low lol. Within 1-2 fps of my score. Anything over 14k is a win in my book. Without water or extreme low temps your not seeing over 14k

Im on air and easily reaching 70 degrees celsius..was getting 12.7k with other bioses.

yeah exactly. Iv tested some Asus and MSI gaming trio cards that only score 13,500 fully Oc to the max. 14107 isnt that bad at all. Get that Temp down u can get to 14,600 ez

Notchy44

cbaty
Tried my luck with Time Spy Extreme:
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/56966790?
Board pulled 645watts
PCI pulled 108.2watts (dancing with fire, I know)
edit: this is a water-cooled hybrid fwiw

 
 

 
now thats bad lol avg clock of 2100 and 63c on a Hybrid.... get some better airflow my man. Im hitting 48c avg with the same card pulling 500ish with much higher clocks and scores

I know :/ I have a Thermaltake P5 showing up this week.  I have everything stuffed in a Meshify C w/a Noctua cooler. Bought the case before I got the hybrid unit. What can ya do :)

Notchy44

cbaty

Notchy44

cbaty
Tried my luck with Time Spy Extreme:
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/56966790?
Board pulled 645watts
PCI pulled 108.2watts (dancing with fire, I know)
edit: this is a water-cooled hybrid fwiw

 
 

 
now thats bad lol avg clock of 2100 and 63c on a Hybrid.... get some better airflow my man. Im hitting 48c avg with the same card pulling 500ish with much higher clocks and scores

I know :/ I have a Thermaltake P5 showing up this week.  I have everything stuffed in a Meshify C w/a Noctua cooler. Bought the case before I got the hybrid unit. What can ya do :)

I had to get pretty creative as well lol Check this clearance out. Try a push pull setup with the hybrid radiator, saw some crazy improvements.
 

north haven high school
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Beautiful build!! Yeah, sometimes ya gotta get crafty. Can't wait to build the P5. Cheers!

Clayman31

Notchy44

cbaty
Tried my luck with Time Spy Extreme:
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/56966790?
Board pulled 645watts
PCI pulled 108.2watts (dancing with fire, I know)
edit: this is a water-cooled hybrid fwiw

 
 

 
now thats bad lol avg clock of 2100 and 63c on a Hybrid.... get some better airflow my man. Im hitting 48c avg with the same card pulling 500ish with much higher clocks and scores

Nah 2100 is great.

2100 at 63c on air is great but with water he should be low 50c or high 40c's. Im pulling 2135 avg 48c with the same exact card
 
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/789692

Clayman31
 
 

Nah 2100 is great.




2100 at 63c on air is great but with water he should be low 50c or high 40c's. Im pulling 2135 avg 48c with the same exact card
 
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/789692


35mhz difference? So fast.

Clayman31
 
 

Nah 2100 is great.




2100 at 63c on air is great but with water he should be low 50c or high 40c's. Im pulling 2135 avg 48c with the same exact card
 
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/789692


35mhz difference? So fast.





Im talking about the temp difference.....  17c temp is a LOT also its almost 5 fps in a benchmark test 
 
https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/17539855/spy/17545272#
 
Timespy extreme score for reference 

I think the problem is that it CAN'T be fixed, at least not easily if at all.
In the Ampere Bios Editor, for example, you can change the internal power limits.
But you still can't change the RATIO of the limits!  That's hardwired on-board.  And that's the problem here.
You already saw people using the Kingpin 1000W VBios on their FTW3's and pulling 95W from the PCIE Slot at 550W...
 
I don't think a bios exists that allows you to change the ratios of the limits.  Even shunt modding doesn't change the ratios.  It only changes what's reported to the current sensing chip.

Notchy44

Clayman31
 
 

Nah 2100 is great.

2100 at 63c on air is great but with water he should be low 50c or high 40c's. Im pulling 2135 avg 48c with the same exact card
 
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/789692


35mhz difference? So fast.

Clayman31
 
 

Nah 2100 is great.




2100 at 63c on air is great but with water he should be low 50c or high 40c's. Im pulling 2135 avg 48c with the same exact card
 
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/789692


35mhz difference? So fast.





Im talking about the temp difference.....  17c temp is a LOT also its almost 5 fps in a benchmark test 
 
https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/17539855/spy/17545272#
 
Timespy extreme score for reference 


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I'll update once the rad is in the open in the new Thermaltake P5. Also have the EVGA CPU 360 cooler on order.. it's on sale on amazon right now, so I figured why not move from the noctua.