This thread is for discussing the EK-Quantum Vector FTW3 waterblock. I understand another thread exist here, where it seems to have been resolved. This discussion will be dedicated to all things in regards to the EK waterblock. 
 

Plexi version
 

Acetal Version
 
Please:

• Share photos of your build
• Share performance metrics (temperatures, OC gains over air, etc)
• Share any advice you may have with the install
• Feel free to ask questions about the waterblock

 
Important: As mentioned above, there was a problem with the Revision 1 of this waterblock. Around the mounting holes, there exist components that are very close to the holes. It is highly advised you get these three new standoffs to avoid any shorting issues
 

EK has revised their waterblock and as of mid-June and after, you should have a waterblock that has three smaller standoffs that will avoid touching these components. To whomever took these photos, please let me know so I can give you the credit. Thank you. 

Edit: Credit to Ineedgfx for taking the pictures.


 

 
You will be replacing these three screws here

 
If you have a revision 1 version of these standoffs, you can contact EK and they will send you three new standoffs for free. Make sure to also send your invoice. support@ekwb.com



If you need to service the block and youre wondering what torque value to aim for so you don't crack the Plexi, read EG1122 post below

eg1122
For those of you that may need to disassemble the block to clean it out, the appropriate torque for the screws holding the Plexi to the cold plate is 0.6Nm (about 5.31 in/lb). I got this information directly from EK support.

I will share my build first I guess. I installed it on a 3080 Ti. I bought adapters from Amazon and Ebay so I can control my aRGB with my corsair controllers. 
 
https://imgur.com/a/qiGBxzE
 


 
I had to redo my waterblock three times. It was quite a headache so hopefully someone installing the block follows some of my advice. 

• The first time I put my waterblock together,
  • My memory junction temperatures were 80C and my GPU core temperature was 22-24C over water temperature while drawing 450W of power
• The second time I put it back together, I warmed the card up and the thermal pads. I discovered I was able to tighten the screws even more than before.
  • Memory junction temperatures dropped to 55-60C, GPU core temperatures was 20-22C over water temperature 
• The third time I put it back together, I doubled up on washers in the 4 screws that mount the waterblock to the die. I also revisited my backplate and saw imprints of the screws in the backplate thermal pads. I cut those off so they wouldn't compress the screws. By doubling up on the washers, I was able to apply more mounting pressure. My results are
  • Memory junction temperatures dropped to 55-60C, GPU core temperatures was 18-22C over water temperature

 Thanks to my lower memory temperatures, I was able to OC my memory past 1200 Mhz, I can now do +1700 Mhz but I have tuned it down to 1650 as a daily driver just to be safe. 
 

 
Here are my daily driver stable OCs:
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/1198266
https://www.3dmark.com/spy/22530362
 

Taken from this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/pjyiv5/finally_finished_my_hardline_build_in_everyones/hc28m3h/?context=3
 
This is the first Acetal version of the block I have seen in the wild. It looks pretty nice. The RGB is a light bar instead. 
 


 

 
 

TahoeDust
Thanks for the info.  I finally got to order my 3080ti FTW3 yesterday and ordered the EK block and some Thermalright pads.

The EK pads are really good already, I recommend you return the Thermalright pads and save yourself some money. You just need to make sure to tighten all the screws nicely. My memory junction temperatures are always around 25C over water. 
 
If water temperatures are at 30C, memory junction is at 55C. If water is at 35C, memory is at 60C. Look at the GPU memory here. 
 

 
I don't see any advantage whatsoever in using other pads.

KingEngineRevUp

TahoeDust
Thanks for the info.  I finally got to order my 3080ti FTW3 yesterday and ordered the EK block and some Thermalright pads.

The EK pads are really good already, I recommend you return the Thermalright pads and save yourself some money. You just need to make sure to tighten all the screws nicely. My memory junction temperatures are always around 25C over water. 
 
If water temperatures are at 30C, memory junction is at 55C. If water is at 35C, memory is at 60C. Look at the GPU memory here. 
 

 
I don't see any advantage whatsoever in using other pads.

Thanks.  I had heard mixed opinions and results.

Mrostom
Hey guys,
When you install the WB do you need to flash the card with another bios? Since the card won’t be using the fans any more?
Is there anything else that needs to be done?

You should be fine, but if you want Precision X1 to be nicer and not have those fans there anymore, you can flash the Hydro Copper bios I suppose. I use afterburner. I have the stock bios. 
 

TahoeDust
Are you guys using the RGB header on the card to control the lighting on the block?  The RGB header on the card is an RGB output right?
 

You will not be able to unless you remove the right side of the block, which is the RGB itself. The RGB terminal block will block the right two ports at the end. Unless you find a RGB low profile cable extension that can fit in that area, you will have to use your motherboard or anther aRGB source. 
 
I am using adapters and controlling my RGB through Corsair iCUE. 

TahoeDust

KingEngineRevUp

TahoeDust
Are you guys using the RGB header on the card to control the lighting on the block?  The RGB header on the card is an RGB output right?
 

You will not be able to unless you remove the right side of the block, which is the RGB itself. The RGB terminal block will block the right two ports at the end. Unless you find a RGB low profile cable extension that can fit in that area, you will have to use your motherboard or anther aRGB source. 
 
I am using adapters and controlling my RGB through Corsair iCUE. 

Oooof the one time having an EVGA Dark board hurts.
 
 
Edit:  Think this would work?
 

Those won't work. Here you go, I took a very close photo of it for you. I think you're better off getting a low profile header on a extension cable. 
 
 

 
 
You'll need to find something like this, I don't know what this header type is but it should fit in here and it should be bendable to loop out of the WB. 
 
 
Note, this is a 12V one, but as long as you clip out the other ends pin you should be fine as it's essentially the same cable as the 5V one. You need a 5V one. 

For the people that mounted their card vertically does the card feel like it would break off. I have had WB card before this one but this one feels extremely wavy.
Isn’t because of how heavy the WB is?

did any1 ordered the active backplate too so we know how much of a difference it make with a active backplate?  mines coming next month

KingEngineRevUp

Mrostom
For the people that mounted their card vertically does the card feel like it would break off. I have had WB card before this one but this one feels extremely wavy.
Isn’t because of how heavy the WB is?

I've seen dozens vertically mounted no issues. Believe it or not, fiberglass is pretty strong. The card is supported by the PCI-E slot still on top of the two PCI-E screws. 

Hmm mine was really wiggling and was pushing forward. However it make sense, sense you can screw down your riser cable.
My riser doesn’t get screwed in :(.
But the power cable is holding it straight and the pipes are holding it too, so now it’s fine.
It was just so odd, how waggle it was.

KingEngineRevUp

Mrostom

KingEngineRevUp

Mrostom
For the people that mounted their card vertically does the card feel like it would break off. I have had WB card before this one but this one feels extremely wavy.
Isn’t because of how heavy the WB is?

I've seen dozens vertically mounted no issues. Believe it or not, fiberglass is pretty strong. The card is supported by the PCI-E slot still on top of the two PCI-E screws. 

Hmm mine was really wiggling and was pushing forward. However it make sense, sense you can screw down your riser cable.
My riser doesn’t get screwed in :(.
But the power cable is holding it straight and the pipes are holding it too, so now it’s fine.
It was just so odd, how waggle it was.

What vertical bracket at you using? I'm using Phanteks. 

I'm using the Fractal

KingEngineRevUp

richard203
did any1 ordered the active backplate too so we know how much of a difference it make with a active backplate?  mines coming next month

I'm a 3080, Ti user and didn't see the benefit.

oh im 3090 so i need that back ram cooled

KingEngineRevUp

richard203

KingEngineRevUp

richard203
did any1 ordered the active backplate too so we know how much of a difference it make with a active backplate?  mines coming next month

I'm a 3080, Ti user and didn't see the benefit.

oh im 3090 so i need that back ram cooled

Before you install it, let us know your before temperatures and then after. 

right now my 3090 memory junc temp is 98-102c and thats with the 3090 hybrid kit so i'll let u guys know after i got my 3090 active backplate next month

Mrostom

richard203

KingEngineRevUp

richard203

KingEngineRevUp

richard203
did any1 ordered the active backplate too so we know how much of a difference it make with a active backplate?  mines coming next month

I'm a 3080, Ti user and didn't see the benefit.

oh im 3090 so i need that back ram cooled

Before you install it, let us know your before temperatures and then after. 

right now my 3090 memory junc temp is 98-102c and thats with the 3090 hybrid kit so i'll let u guys know after i got my 3090 active backplate next month

Yah I think it’s safe up to 125.

It would be interesting to see how much the active waterblock help with that.

I don't know the tech spec limit, but I know it will thermal throttle down and won't want to go past 105C. The card will send less power to it and it will throttle down a lot. 

KingEngineRevUp
Taken from this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/pjyiv5/finally_finished_my_hardline_build_in_everyones/hc28m3h/?context=3
 
This is the first Acetal version of the block I have seen in the wild. It looks pretty nice. The RGB is a light bar instead. 
 


 

 
 

Acetol version of the Block has been out since release....I got my first one in March for my 3080.(pics in Mods Rig)..will be swapping that one over to 3080Ti...I've never been a fan of clear acrylic at all...4 different series of EK Waterblocks have all been Actetol ...they pair up nice with the Nickel backplates.
 
For controlling RGB lighting with any Asus Board...plug in RGB cable to any RGB header on your Mobo, then easily control lighting effects with Asus Aura software.
 
I have a "notify" in with EK and am planning on trying out the active backplate....considering how toasty warm the Nickel backplate gets under heavy load, I'm quite sure the Active Backplate wil be quite effective....love the idea of "sandwiching" the PCB between Water Blocks...very cool EK !!