KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

No one is telling you to plug your temperature sensor in... But there are benefits to having one. Fan profiles should be made off of water temperatures for the best control over sound and taking care of those water temperatures. It's a cheap $10 investment. I just disagreed with your statement that they're not needed. Water cooling in general isn't "needed" but there are better ways to do things in the hobby. Having a fan profile based off of temperature sensors is one of them. 

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker
 
I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps....
Cheers..

You surely need it if you want to write a fan profile vs. water temperatures. But to each their own. 

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker
 
I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps....
Cheers..

You surely need it if you want to write a fan profile vs. water temperatures. But to each their own. 

I suppose you would in that case.....but for myself all of my Fans are controlled thru a manual fan controller (all fans grouped)....4 Channel with 50w per channel....when I game, slide them up..when Im surfing the Net...slide em down.
Anyhow...we do agree that custom loops are a great hobby....another great thing is most of your initial costs can be recycled year after year...unfortunately you do wind up with a stockpile of GPU and CPU Blocks in your closet :)
Enjoy your loop..it really is gorgeous..I just received my new version 2 EK Block...so will be swapping out my 3080FTW for my 3080Ti FTW...

That's the best thing about PCs, people have their own way of doing things. Personally, I don't want to slide things up and down. I like to automate these processes. 
 

 
I have fan profiles set for devices and I optimize my system this way. I have fan profiles now all based off of water temperatures. The only thing I vary by device is my pump speed. 

bloodhawk1989

rjbarker

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

No one is telling you to plug your temperature sensor in... But there are benefits to having one. Fan profiles should be made off of water temperatures for the best control over sound and taking care of those water temperatures. It's a cheap $10 investment. I just disagreed with your statement that they're not needed. Water cooling in general isn't "needed" but there are better ways to do things in the hobby. Having a fan profile based off of temperature sensors is one of them. 

I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps...which is what you should be monitoring...if your GPU/CPU temps seem high...your Coolant will be high...its not rocket science...its simple thermal dynamics....
I have to ask (and please don't take it the wrong way), is this your first custom loop? (GPU n CPU)
 
Cheers..

Im curious, without a Water Temp sensor, how are you setting up your fan curves? Because without i dont see any scenario where the fan wont be ramping up and down like crazy. That alone makes a temperature a must-have.

KingEngineRevUp

bloodhawk1989

rjbarker

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

No one is telling you to plug your temperature sensor in... But there are benefits to having one. Fan profiles should be made off of water temperatures for the best control over sound and taking care of those water temperatures. It's a cheap $10 investment. I just disagreed with your statement that they're not needed. Water cooling in general isn't "needed" but there are better ways to do things in the hobby. Having a fan profile based off of temperature sensors is one of them. 

I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps...which is what you should be monitoring...if your GPU/CPU temps seem high...your Coolant will be high...its not rocket science...its simple thermal dynamics....
I have to ask (and please don't take it the wrong way), is this your first custom loop? (GPU n CPU)
 
Cheers..

Im curious, without a Water Temp sensor, how are you setting up your fan curves? Because without i dont see any scenario where the fan wont be ramping up and down like crazy. That alone makes a temperature a must-have.

He has a manual controller and has to manually turn the dials up when he games and turn them down when he's not.

TahoeDust
Thanks for the info in the thread.  Install went smooth.  We're up and running...
 

TahoeDust
Thanks for the info in the thread.  Install went smooth.  We're up and running...
 

managerman
Hello!  Thanks for this new FTW3 EK block thread.  I have two Revision 1 3090 FTW3 EK blocks that I installed back in April on my two EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra cards.  After installing the blocks, I tested each card and they performed fantastic (temps, benchmarking, etc) .  I am about ready to permanently install them in a brand new build, Is it worth it to remove the blocks and replace the standoffs on the blocks if I have no issues at this point? Could the card or block "move" and cause the current larger standoffs to hit the card components that caused the short outs??  Or maybe the tolerances are ok on my two cards and blocks???  TIA.
 
-M

managerman
Hello!  Thanks for this new FTW3 EK block thread.  I have two Revision 1 3090 FTW3 EK blocks that I installed back in April on my two EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra cards.  After installing the blocks, I tested each card and they performed fantastic (temps, benchmarking, etc) .  I am about ready to permanently install them in a brand new build, Is it worth it to remove the blocks and replace the standoffs on the blocks if I have no issues at this point? Could the card or block "move" and cause the current larger standoffs to hit the card components that caused the short outs??  Or maybe the tolerances are ok on my two cards and blocks???  TIA.
 
-M

richard203
good news no ned to wait till first week of next month no more, just recieved an email for the ek active front and backplate that should have it by this wed should be able to give an update on how much a difference is from a hybrid to a active front and back waterblock.

earlmarinus
I just received the active backplate yesterday. I have installed it. It is pretty simple to do. I will be putting it in the system later today.

earlmarinus

KingEngineRevUp

earlmarinus
I just received the active backplate yesterday. I have installed it. It is pretty simple to do. I will be putting it in the system later today.

Make sure you torque the screws down pretty well. I have seen other users get bad results because they didn't. 

I have made sure torque down best I can get them with Phillips head. I will post my temps as soon as get some time to get this back together.