I think even the non ftw3 block only fit there specific board . The non ftw3 Evga boards have A different layout as well

I installed the block the other day and tested the new system late last night. The card was running.. lights on and all.. no picture. Mb was beeping and showed an issue with the VGA. Checked in the bios and showed no card installed.

So I figures either the card is bad or the water block is touching something on the card and grounding out.

So after draining the card (dual loop) and testing my former 1080ti and seeing it was fine in the same slot.. something is up with the card.

Today I removed the water block and installed the stock cooler. Fired right up and seen the post screen! Card is fine.. bios recognized the card installed this time. But what did I do wrong as I didnt notice anything looking off removing the water block?

So I read this thread.. I seen how many did what I thought was logical with the black side up for the bracket.

Instructions show silver side up with the screw threads facing up.. hmm.

So I check the card where the bracket was and then thought maybe the bracket is ground out on something as I see some solder spots on the left top side.. theres nothing else around the bracket to touch.

So I grab my 10x loop and check and guess what? Yup. The bracket for sure was touching one of the solder stops. Basicly a solder connection from a backside component threw the pcb. And I could tell because half the round solder was flattened from a straight edge. As in the flat edge hitting it from the bracket! Same flat edge on another stop below that solder connection.

No idea really how it will fit any different if I flip the bracket over.. but no doubt that's why the one side is black coated to protect from grounding out so now it all makes sense! :)

The thing is that edge where its black is not fully coated. So kinda like a bare edge.

I'll flip the bracket and see if it fits any different and away from those parts.

I may just coat those 2 spots that touch with nail polish or maybe just on the bracket to insure it dont ground out again.

Seems fine.. when I pulled the block off I had a heck of a time getting it apart as the thermal paste had such a good seal.

Also now when I look at how close the bracket is to the memory chips.. I bet it's getting in the way of the thermal pads making a good seal as the bracket is much higher then the chips.

So that could be why the one guy had better temps when he placed the pads directly to the chips insted of the way the pads are already mounted to the block.

:)

Its alive!

I've been having a hell of a time installing the Hydro copper block on my system as well. Have to drain my loop and reinstall the block for the 3rd time now to troubleshoot the issue. I wanna shoot my computer lol. Temps start idleing at 25-30c but after about 10 mins of a game its hitting 70C+and its got to be contact is off because I can manually squeeze the card together and the temps immediately drop by 5-10c.

That bracket is a pain, this is probably one of the more difficult coolers to install. Once its on though it is pretty decent.

esschallert
I have the same problem, with my 2080 Ti + hydrocopper, temps are rising up to the 70°C after a run of timespy. Is this also a issue with the bracket? I've installed it like in the instruction with the black side to the pcb. 
 
This is my GPU loop 

 
Flow direction is from the lower left to the upper right.
 
If it's the issue with the bracket should I just flip it like others did with the silver side to the pcb?

No DONT DO THAT!  Short the card!
 
Black side down like you have it.
 
Did you start with the 4 main screws around the GPU die when you put the block on?  If so maybe just remove the gpu bracket all together. Maybe your screws for the bracket are too long and are preventing the block from fully seating to the GPU. You'll have to check and see if you see marks on the block from the bracket screws if so.