bill1024

What are you doing for memory, I may have a link that can get you going for 5$ a stick.

Think I'm good on memory chips, but you could post the link for others.
I have 16x G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series I picked up sometime back from a member here.
12 sticks are in 2x of my SR2, but I should have enough to put back into those laying around.
Thanks

Do the SR2's come close to the folding power of the P4's?

Quite some impressive stuff. Just did a little math. One Xeon 4650 is like $3900 and people have made 4p's out of it, which makes it $15.6K, lol.
 
I think that it would rather be wise to get a couple of 4/2p's folding side by side of a little older models rather than going for these ones.
 
 

Doing some playing around since my 212's aren't here yet.
I think this would really work well with a very simple made cross bar to
hold the heatsink to the mobo/CPU. As you can see good clearence on the ram.
The bottom of this ThermalTake Mini Typhoon is almost the same size as
the HIS of the cpu. Ya it a small forum factor HS but I think it would be
plenty for this setup in the way of cooling. If only I had 3 more I'd be
up and running in no time. Good luck finding these at a good price.
 
Edit or maybe not, after placing a memory chip in the blue slot on the
other side there becomes a small clearence problem. Nothing a small
mod to the heat pipes wouldn't solve, but something that needs to be said.
Turning the HS 90% would work well, but then we are back to the Musky mod
for connection to the mobo.

just hammer mod it with some love. it would be the first time ive done some bending mod. you should see what I do to people a/c lines in their cars when they are in my way.

Anticipation is high, yes??lol  Hope it goes smooth for you wolf!
Nice build man..
 
@Bill ,please post that mem link. I may be very interested. Thanks!

I would like this PM too.

Looking good there, The performance figures are next?

I was fully prepared to use the musky-mod method on all four CM 212s, but after scoping things out once I had the heatsinks in hand the solution was ridiculously simple for three of the units and preserves my preferred front to back airflow scheme for the basement folding rack (that's only about 20% done so far). Here's the 2 minute CM 212+ mod I did for three of the CPUs on my H8QGi-F, which would work for all four in a caseless setup or in a large case with clearance for CPU4.
 
First I disassembled the bracket and put it back together nested. I used small pliers to pop off the mounting screw retaining washers, not really caring if they got mangled. IIRC, 6-32x1-3/8" was the perfect mounting screw length for the G34 socket, but 6-32x1-1/4" had enough length to thread into the G34 socket backplate without fighting the springs. I did cut some screws to 1-3/8" as I ran out of the 1-1/4" screws.
 

 
Next you need to remove or cut off the locating pin on the base of the 212+ so it doesn't interfere with the bracket seating. They can be removed with pliers (I used 6" Vise-Grips on one) or simply cut off with flush cutters as they are mild steel. I used Xuron cutters on the rest. If you for some reason you don't want to remove the pin you can grind or file the side of the bracket stack, it doesn't need much to clear. I found that cutting them with the Xurons to be the fastest solution.
 

Here's what it looks like ready to mount, this 212 had its pin pulled. I chose to use mounting springs on the three simple-mod 212's.
 

 
Here's what they look like mounted and operating in my 2U SM case. (It's also my avatar for now!)
 

 
As you can see, I could only mount three of them that way due to CPU4 being hard up against the side of the case. I used my version of musky-mod style mounting for that one. Rather than use a 6-32 threaded rod (cut off screw) I used a 6-32x1-1/4" screw with an aircraft style jam nut. That lets you use a screwdriver to thread the screw in and then you only need to tighten the nut a small amount in that restricted space, which lessens the fiddleyness of the process a bit. Being up against the case wall the fewer turns needed pays dividends. You can see that I dinged the lower fin slightly, ewps, easy fix. Using philips screws (or allen hex socket with a ball end wrench) would have been easier, but I had the slotted stove bolt style screws in stock so that's what I used. I was concerned that the tight quarters would impact the cooling performance on CPU4, but it runs second coolest of the four CPUs.
 

 
I was going to make a plexiglas cover with cutouts for the CM 212's to maintain the board's component cooling, but after making a heavy cardboard template as a test I have decided to just leave that in place until the rack is built and figure out what I want to do with it then.
 
With the H8QME-2 and 8439's running nekkid sitting on the front half of the server case and all four of its coolers blowing hot air toward the CM 212's on the G34 the temps are still decent. At 80 F ambient the hottest CPU is at 47 C and the coolest is at 38 C. CPU4 is at 40 C.
 
Right now this is my mini-folding platform next to my desk. The heatsinks on the H8QME-2 are CM Hyper 101's (lapped up to 1000 grit paper) with two Rosewill 46 CFM fans on each CPU exhausting rearward. The 101's are like cute little baby 212's
 

 
I wish I had room for the H8QM3 4p, the last piece of its puzzle, the ankle-biter 8425's, just arrived this morning!
 

Yeah it is tight on one bank of RAM.
 
I hear you about the sleep thing, I have been fighting falling asleep after dinner almost every night.
 

TheWolf

One of my experiments worked out pretty good for the hold down of the Hyper 212.
T Plate its applied the same way as Musky's mod, but no drilling or tapping holes bigger.
Only problem is price, in Lowes a 2 pack is $2.59 + tax.
Where as the shelf standard is $4.36 +tax for 72" only size they had.
Being tight on money I only got one 2 pack T Plate for the experiment,
and ended up getting the Shelf Standard to save the few bucks.

With the T Plate I cut and use the top part as shown in the link pic with the three holes,
if you use this route be sure the plate is turned so the center hole is furtherest out away
from the heatsink so it aline's with the mobo holes.

Edit: also mount it underneath the stock 212 center bracket,
if placed on top you have less clearance with the heat pipes
because of the width and causes some problems.  
Oh and be sure to use the furtherest out hole on the 212
bracket, I found out the hard way, one end I had the bolts
in the closest in holes and the other end in the furtherest out.

I'm going to go ahead and use this one because its already finished.
Fabing the others now with Shelf Standard..

 
Reported for awesomeness!

TheWolf

Johnny_Utah

TheWolf

One of my experiments worked out pretty good for the hold down of the Hyper 212.
T Plate its applied the same way as Musky's mod, but no drilling or tapping holes bigger.
Only problem is price, in Lowes a 2 pack is $2.59 + tax.
Where as the shelf standard is $4.36 +tax for 72" only size they had.
Being tight on money I only got one 2 pack T Plate for the experiment,
and ended up getting the Shelf Standard to save the few bucks.

With the T Plate I cut and use the top part as shown in the link pic with the three holes,
if you use this route be sure the plate is turned so the center hole is furtherest out away
from the heatsink so it aline's with the mobo holes.

Edit: also mount it underneath the stock 212 center bracket,
if placed on top you have less clearance with the heat pipes
because of the width and causes some problems.  
Oh and be sure to use the furtherest out hole on the 212
bracket, I found out the hard way, one end I had the bolts
in the closest in holes and the other end in the furtherest out.

I'm going to go ahead and use this one because its already finished.
Fabing the others now with Shelf Standard..

Reported for awesomeness!

This should work with the same bolt kits as Musky mod.
Might be best with a tad longer screw at the T Plate mount points than his kit calls for.
I just used bits and pieces I had laying around for that test.
First I only picked up the 2 pack of T Plate as a test and didn't
go back for the bolt kits until after this was completed. As said
after thinking things threw the cost was more than I was willing
to spend at this time or I would have gone this route all the way threw.

Edit: if you use this method it be best to also place a flat washer underneath the spring.
The hole is pretty large in the T Plate as you can see in the pic the spring is trying to slip threw the hole
in one shot. It dosn't but would make a better pressure point with a flat washer underneath.

Edit2: After thinking about it the bolts and nuts might need to be bigger than used in Musky's mod
As stated before the holes in the T Plate are a good bit bigger than the ones in the Shelf Standard.
You can see what I used in the pic, but I don't have a clue what size they are & those could be shorter
than what I used. As said I just used stuff I had laying around at no cost for the test run.
There is defiantly room for improvement and appearance with a better chose of bolts use for this mod.
Plus sawing all the way thew the T Plate, as were I only sawed a little over half way then snapped it off
leave a jagged edge on the first one I did. Shortcuts are not always a good idea. lol 

 
Indeed there are always room for improvements but the fact that you found a piece that LOOKS a hell of a lot better and does the job without having to resize the existing holes is incredible.  I just sawed off my first one.  I sawed from one end first then the other.  I am just going to grind it down until it is flat (really doesn't need to be perfect but I am like you, I would rather it be done right and even).  I purchased a crap ton of 6-32 items, 3/8' 1-1/2" and 2" (along with washers and nuts) so I could figure out the best way to proceed.

Johnny_Utah
I purchased a crap ton of 6-32 items, 3/8' 1-1/2" and 2" (along with washers and nuts) so I could figure out the best way to proceed.

I found that the 1 1/2 worked well for me, I snipped the head off with wire cutters then
used 3 nuts one to clean the threads back up and two locked together so I had a way
to hold it still while I used the other to clean the threads.
Edit: Also found it eaier to use the uncut end of the bolt to thread into the mobo.

Congrats on the BR Wolf, that was very inventive and certainly an idea that others can follow in the future!