Wow. That's not good at all!

Idle temps? Mines in the low 20s.. 38-39c load temp and mid 20s everywhere else.

When you install the block.. did you start off with the 4 main screws around the GPU die? And start ea screw where it just catches.. then turn ea screw 2 turns in a X pattern to get an even flat contact?

Then start the rest with the screws that would be around the mem chips.. then once thats good then move down the length of the card in the middle to the end then back around the sides.. then finally do the other side of the GPU die to the end of the card.. bracket last. Bracket goes in between the backplate and card.

Doing it that way you will get the flattest non bowed card contact.

Also I like alot of thermal paste. I do a star pattern just to make sure theirs enough to spread around.. the block will squish out any excess goop.

Also I will point out that on the block itself, 2 of the mounting holes are like raised. Those raise posts are ment to line the block up correctly. They fall into the screw mount hole of the card.

1 is at one end left the GPU die and the other is to the right side further down the block I believe.

Maybe those aren't lines up and its causing the card to not seat flat.

They should of pointed that out in the manual as that would be very important for those 2 threaded posts to fall into the card screw holes or the block wont be flat.

Wish I had pictures of the block on my phone :/

That does seem pretty high for the amount of rad you have there.  Actually it's overkill and you should be getting great temps in general.  Do you know what your ambient room and water temps are and give us a break down of your system and loop involved here.

Lack of proper contact will increase Temps --- the question is what is the Root cause ?
 
What pump speeds are you testing ?
 
Do you have a Flow indicator in your Loop ?
 
Some CPU water blocks are flow specific - if your pushing coolant into the exit port it will flow poorly

Ambient room temps are about 75F and water temps are about 34c. My D5 is running at level 3 and I had no problems with that setting as my 1080 ti sat in the low 40s with that speed with the two rads. Pump is non pwm and flow didn't seem like an issue when I filled it up and cpu temps are in check. I'm just so baffled that everything looks like it's making solid contact with a ton of TIM spread on the block as well.
 
Parts:
1x 30mm HWL 360mm radiator
1x 54mm HWL 360mm radiator
D5 pump
EK Surpemacy Evo cpu block
Hydro Copper gpu block
i7 7700k at 4.8GHz
Rtx 2080 Ti FTW3

Oops I meant meant to say flow did not seem like an issue the way the reservioir drained and returned haha

I'd hate to break it down again without having an idea of what could be causing it in the first place.

Only other thing in could think of is your barb connections. What brand are they? Is their a web site that I can see them at?

Maybe the threads on the barbs are so deep it's seriously cutting down the flow?

Other than that I'd start thinking about connecting evga and see about getting a new block.

Edit: I also see different plugs (bitspower?) you have for the top holes on the block. The threads are the normal depth on those?

AHowes all the fittings are bitspower and I've been using the same ones for almost 2 years now so I don't think the fittings are an issue either.

This problem screams poor gpu-->jet-plate contact. I know you said it was making good contact but I suggest putting some TIM on the screw holes of the GPU bracket to see if those are contacting. Wiggle the GPU bracket around and make sure it isn't raised on anything. Make sure the GPU bracket screws aren't screwed too tightly and coming out the other side.
 
I had a similar problem with one of my Hydro Coppers. One of them cooled fine the other would run about 10*C higher and continue to creep. I took it apart maybe 7 times. Also, the EVGA TIM was garbage. Finally settled on kryonaut. Even now it still runs a few degrees hotter but within a reasonable margin. 
 
Nice rig by the way. I had dual 360GTX int he top/bot with the distribution plate in the side before I went SLI. Here's what it looks like now. I don't have enough cooling. Whole room heats up during long (5hr+) gaming sessions. Only bummer was I didnt realize 2080 Ti FE's don't support EVGA NVLink LED control. RIP 
 

Ya got the flow in the correct direction? Meaning in and out on the pump and cpu?

I know what a pain it can be to see the in and out on the pump and CPU block. Dont matter on the GPU block though.

Just thought that as you have a bubble on the right side of the GPU block.. seems like it should be on the left for any trapped air. With were it is it seems like it would be real easy for that bubble to say bye bye to the pump. If not just tipping the system while it's running I cant see that bubble hanging on hehe.

When I did my first ever hard lines last week on my system I was so proud of my tune from the pump to the CPU and then the next day realize I connected the in on the CPU block from the in on the pump! Haha.. well.. that's what ya get for trying to get stuff done after a night of drinks at dinner.

RustyBrownEye
Here's a closeup of the block. The channels look completely free and the only bubble is the small one to the right of the channels, but that doesn't look like it would impact performance.

From the looks of your block, it looks fine from here.

After looking at your rig again, what exact PUMP/RES is that (brand and model) and is that configured correctly (IN/OUTs) as that could impede the flow on top of so many bends in the loop.  I also had a similar experience with my build a few months back.  I had to run two D5s in serial at 90%+ just to get me a 1 GPM flow.  I should note, EVGA's WB's are known to be a bit restrictive.  Test out the pump speed and increase if necessary and watch the temps after say 30 min of benching.  Keep testing till you feel you found your sweet spot.

auskie
 
I had a similar problem with one of my Hydro Coppers. One of them cooled fine the other would run about 10*C higher and continue to creep. I took it apart maybe 7 times. Also, the EVGA TIM was garbage. Finally settled on kryonaut. Even now it still runs a few degrees hotter but within a reasonable margin. 
 

When it comes to Serial vs. Parallel flow, with Serial, it's a bit more restrictive (forced to go through two GPU WBs) but the temps will differ higher between the two GPUs roughly in the 5c-10c range.  In Parallel configuration, both GPUs are getting the same flow on top of being less resistant but the temps might be slightly higher in general by a few degrees but the deltas between the two will be much closer as opposed to Serial config.



If I had to guess (assuming your top GPU is intake), your bottom GPU is the hotter one between the two because the flow will enter the least resistant path which is your fitting between your GPUs, leaving your bottom GPU a bit starved.  What you should have configured is either Serial or Parallel.  I'd probably go with Parallel in your case by the looks of your system.  


 
I personally use Serial only for pumps to combine the pumping power and use Parallel for GPUs for better flow and closer temps.

Also the pump/res combo is bitspower, it only has one outlet and the return is at the top of the reservoir.
 

GTXJackBauer
If I had to guess (assuming your top GPU is intake), your bottom GPU is the hotter one between the two because the flow will enter the least resistant path which is your fitting between your GPUs, leaving your bottom GPU a bit starved.  What you should have configured is either Serial or Parallel.  I'd probably go with Parallel in your case by the looks of your system.  

 
That was really great stuff! However, in my current set-up the top GPU is the hotter GPU (but only by ~2-4*C). Previously, I had this GPU on the bottom and it would run much hotter... like 10*C. 

Just threw the loop back together and made sure the standoffs were in place. Did the "pea and grain of rice" TIM as GTXJackBauer suggested and ramped my pump up to 100% and will report back once system is bled

That's sad and alot of work!

I'd kindly ask evga for a cross ship after all that.. who would want to remove that block again to go threw the hassle of putting the stock cooler back on and then to just remove that again to do the new block?

Cross ship the man!!!!

Call them up any time of the day.. too bad they cant just take a peak at this thread as then they will know everything you tried to know avail.

:/

Worst luck ever!

I just hope it's the block and not something off on the card itself.