K this is the point where I'm starting my campaign to get +1s on ModRigs & get eVGA to post THIS system instead of the absolute garbage temporary monstrosity they posted on Twitter/Instagram etc of mine...
 
https://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=42891 - any and all plus ones are appreciated folks!
 
So here's the screenies I actually made sure are PROPER screenshots:
 
Port Royal 15668: https://www.3dmark.com/pr/1028885 

The fact that that was with the CPU at absolutely STOCK WITH no PBO blows my mind.
 
Time Spy 21919: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/20183189 

 
These were both done with the CPU at 4.7GHz.
 
Time Spy Extreme: 11790 https://www.3dmark.com/spy/20183335 

 
As you can see, Time Spy won't run at as high of clocks as PR at the same voltages, and I didn't really want to push any further... my VRAM literally will not do 1500.  I tried with 1.41625V and it actually ARTIFACTED in PR then failed out of it.  1400 will run multiple runs without crashing as long as I let the GPU cool down a bit between runs though.  1300 is very stable in both benchmarks with no voltage increase on the VRAM over stock.
 
 

Dabadger84
K this is the point where I'm starting my campaign to get +1s on ModRigs & get eVGA to post THIS system instead of the absolute garbage temporary monstrosity they posted on Twitter/Instagram etc of mine...
 
https://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=42891 - any and all plus ones are appreciated folks!
 
So here's the screenies I actually made sure are PROPER screenshots:
 
Port Royal 15668: https://www.3dmark.com/pr/1028885 

The fact that that was with the CPU at absolutely STOCK WITH no PBO blows my mind.
 
Time Spy 21919: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/20183189 

 
These were both done with the CPU at 4.7GHz.
 
Time Spy Extreme: 11790 https://www.3dmark.com/spy/20183335 

 
As you can see, Time Spy won't run at as high of clocks as PR at the same voltages, and I didn't really want to push any further... my VRAM literally will not do 1500.  I tried with 1.41625V and it actually ARTIFACTED in PR then failed out of it.  1400 will run multiple runs without crashing as long as I let the GPU cool down a bit between runs though.  1300 is very stable in both benchmarks with no voltage increase on the VRAM over stock.
 
 

I have noticed the same between PR and TS. I usually run my TS runs at a slightly lower voltage and clock speed. That’s crazy about monitor resolution though being the most significant change

alpharius194
I really hope EVGA honors my hydrocopper version queue spot because it’s a different sku. Convinced someone that dropping the 2k for a card that you will get in a month is better than buying a pre-built for $4100 (ekwb does make a nice looking pre-built though but their parts choice is mediocre at best) for a 3080. I want to compare the two when I put mine together with my own pads and paste.

They should, I know two people that have gotten in queue for it besides you that already have the regular Kingpin & are either getting a HC block for it or already have one coming/on it.

alpharius194
Ya I’m hopefully in the next batch for just the block. Need to finalize whether I’m switching over to hardline now. I bought the fittings but am getting cold feet about leaving my pc out of commission while I experiment with bends

That's a big part of why I went soft tubing, besides worrying about bends & leaks and the like, I did not want to have to worry about having my system down for very long.  Even as it was, with doing soft tubing, me taking my time, picking up the block during the same day, and having to run some new tubes for the second radiator & block n' whatnot, it still took me an entire day to go from up & running without the block & 2nd radiator, to drained, apart, redone & refilled.
 
Of course, installing the block was part of that downtime & I took my time on that part in particular because I didn't want to kill a $2k GPU when this was my first time ever putting a liquid block on a GPU - and the outlet not allowing me to put a fitting on the top side of the block with the backplate installed meant I had to re-measure one of my tubes while mid-reconstruction too.
 
I would be very interested to see someone with soft tubing that's done direct CPU to GPU or GPU to CPU and then radiators & how much of a difference there is between their temperatures & mine, with similar ambient.  I've been told "the order of the components doesn't matter much" but it seems like my temps in general are a bit cooler than most people's, and I don't think it's just my ambient & having push/pull on both rads.

alpharius194
That’s why I went with the alphacool radiators that have a drain in the bottom, it makes my life so much easier after having built one with other radiators. I actually made soft tubing look really nice on the build I put together for my brother, mine looks like ass in comparison but I was lazy and did the tubes first cut. Using angled fittings on his I actually made it look very clean.
As for the loop order I’m in the same boat as you but understand jayz2¢‘s logic of the difference is minuscule due to the pump cycling the whole loop multiple times a minute with a D5. Idk if I will change my loop order though I have a hard time believing there’s absolutely no difference.

I would love to see someone test this.  If I could afford the investment in to building a whole 'nother system right now, I'd do it myself, but all of my funds right now are going towards saving up to get a decent vehicle when my time to return to the workforce rolls around. Which the ironic KekW of my system being worth more than what most people would consider a decent vehicle is not lost on me... but I ain't downgrading unless I have to cuz this system & the usage thereof is one of the only things I enjoy in life currently :-P lol

Debating a RAM swap to a 4000MHz/CL15 4x8 kit... I'd be returning my 2nd 2x16 kit & getting that one, then reselling the kit I'm still using of the 2x16, assuming the 4x8 performs properly.  I imagine that 4000/CL15 is literally just 3600 CL14 sticks with looser timings, because it runs the 4000/CL15 at 1.5V - mine can run 3800/CL14 at 1.5V with no issues at all, at least I haven't had any issues yet.

Well TBH two of the main reasons for switching would be it's a native 4000MHz low timings kit, and it's a 4-stick kit - I really like how the system looks with all 4 DIMMs populated... I know, choosing aesthetics over performance is derp-worthy. lol
 
I listed the newer (still returnable) kit on EBay.  We'll see if it sells, if not I'll just return it & eat the fee I think... I'd love to keep the full 64GB of RAM but if the CPU can't run 1900 infinity fabric with all 4 installed, at all, because of the fact that it's seeing it as 8-DIMMs due to it being Dual-Rank sticks, that's a serious downer to me keeping them.
 
If that sells or once the return is processed, I'll order the other kit most likely.  If I wasn't trying to consolidate funds to get a vehicle, I'd just order the kit now - I have the money, I just don't want to spend it :-P lol

Just ordered my block, did you replace the pads with all 1mm thick? Excited/nervous to pull my first gpu apart. Have to order some black angled fittings now and some new pads and start plotting how to clean my messy cables up

alpharius194
Just ordered my block, did you replace the pads with all 1mm thick? Excited/nervous to pull my first gpu apart. Have to order some black angled fittings now and some new pads and start plotting how to clean my messy cables up

Stock pads are 2mm thick, pretty sure about that - I measured them and that's what I put on to replace it, works perfectly.

alpharius194
Edit: dang alphacool and fujipoly pads seem to top out at 1.5mm

The VRM pads might be thinner, but VRAM on the die side is 100% at least 2mm, and mine is running great with Thermalright 12W/mK 2mm thick pads up in there. 
 
You could stack 1mm but that's not ideal if it gets squished at all it could be an issue.

CptT95
I bought two kits of 2 x 8gb and they had sequential serial numbers, fresh from the factory, and are basically a 4 x 8gb set

I think the complications only happen when you're talking about more than 8GB per DIMM, I've never experienced the issues I had with getting 4 sticks to work at anything above stock like this before, but I've also never run 16GB on a single stick before either.  I imagine that "The IMC is seeing 8 ranks because you have 4 sticks of dual rank RAM installed" bit being why my CPU wasn't havin' it was indeed the case... BUT... we'll find out, whenever I managed to get up the courage & order that 4x8 GB kit.
 
The newer 2x16GB kit is on it's way to a new home for $325 shipped - guy offered $300 and I countered with $325 noting 'keep in mind this includes free shipping, which is not free for me' lol, I let the dude know the kit 100% performs as expected at stock & that it can definitely run 1900/3800 if his Infinity Fabric can hit 1900 and he took the offer.   I also explained why I was getting rid of the kit, cuz it's less money lost to resell it & let it go on to someone that'll use it, than it is to return it to Newegg when they could charge anywhere from 15-30% on restocking fees.
 
I think this time, if I do get the 4x8 kit, I'm gonna go with the Royal Silver/Platinum.  I think they'll match the nickel/silver look of my EK CPU block, and since the Copper on the Kingpin Block is literally pretty much invisible, I don't think gold sticks are de wae.
 
What do you think, would a kit that can run 4000MHz @ CL15 1.5V be able to run something like 3600MHz @ CL12 or CL13 @ 1.5V? lol I will probably try that when I get it in, just to see if it A: Boots & B: doesn't toss a flood of WHEA errors as soon as I get in to Windows.

alpharius194
I could see 13 at 1.5 and maybe 12 at a real dram OC voltage. I don’t think GSkill is releasing these kits in their new royal elite scheme but the textured heat-spreader is so cool. I think the only 4000 kit is 1.4v for CL16 with loose secondary timings

What would you set for b die 3200 cl14 Gskill memory, to run 14 timings at 3800?

CptT95

alpharius194
I could see 13 at 1.5 and maybe 12 at a real dram OC voltage. I don’t think GSkill is releasing these kits in their new royal elite scheme but the textured heat-spreader is so cool. I think the only 4000 kit is 1.4v for CL16 with loose secondary timings

What would you set for b die 3200 cl14 Gskill memory, to run 14 timings at 3800?

The 3800cl14 kit direct from gskill is 1.5v. Start in small steps so you don’t run into post issues. Ram sticks are binned. I personally wouldn’t jump from 3200-3800 the first try. Maybe try a spot between 32-36, try 36 and then try 38. I took too much of a chunk out on an Aorus B550 and had to disassemble half the pc to pull the battery and reset the cmos. They weren’t Samsung B-die though, I haven’t had Samsung ram crash that hard but it definitely wasn’t fun to deal with.

alpharius194
They finally Got the right build up on Twitter lol my block arrived today. Just waiting on some angled fittings so I can clean everything up and my thermal pads to arrive. Said F it and bought thermal grizzly 2mm and thermalright 2mm pads so I can compare size/squishiness to the stock pads

Yeah someone messaged me about it in PMs a lil while ago. Awesome that Jacob did that & they got it done that quickly 😁

Try 14-15-15-15-35-50 with the same settings & see if it still spits errors like hotcakes.  If it doesn't, it's one of the other primaries not the CL.