ty_ger07

GTXJackBauer
It wouldn't seal right but once I put plumbers tape as I forgot to put some as I usually do for ALL my fittings and they all currently do, the leakage has since stop and I just don't mess with it.

Eww!  Gross.  Bad advice.  Don't use plumbers tape on computer water cooling.  1) The little shreds of plumbers tape can plug up the microfins inside waterblocks (and other locations) and 2) It isn't necessary since it is a fitting sealed by an o-ring.  If the o-ring isn't sealing, there is something else wrong.  It makes no sense to seal the threads with thread tape and ignore the leaking o-ring problem.  O-rings should seal with nothing more than hand-tight.  You can tighten it more than hand-tight, but the point is that if it doesn't seal hand-tight, you have a mating issue.  Check that both surfaces are flat and smooth.  Check that the o-ring isn't damaged.  Check that the o-ring has a light coat of Vaseline.  And check that the fitting's threads aren't too long, the threads aren't galled up, and that there is nothing else preventing the o-ring from making full contact; the o-ring should make full contact just by turning in the fitting hand-tight.
  
Don't use thread tape to fix an o-ring problem.  Ever.  That's super ghetto.

ty_ger07

GTXJackBauer
 
I've been around veteran watercoolers for several years and by some, this has been done for almost 20 years.

Whichever veterans you are around have no idea what they are doing.  This is basic.  An o-ring should seal hand-tight every time.
 
These fittings don't use tapered thread.  Thread tape is designed for tapered threads.  Pointless.  The thread tape won't jam up properly and seal in the way thread tape is meant to seal.  On the trailing side, the threads will be in tension and the thread tape will seal on that side in compression, but the trough of the thread on the leading side will be under no load and you will still have a spiral leakage path for fluid to leak out.  You are basically trying to jam as much thread tape in there as you can to plug up that spiral leakage path, but it shreds under shear load as you thread the fitting in, and then as soon is the fitting is tight, the one side compresses, and the other side opens up; any tape which did jam on that side is instantly uncompressed as soon as the fitting is tightened.  It's literally like trying to slide a piece of thread tape between two surfaces which are 0.010" apart, and then once you do that, open up the gap to 0.015" apart.  Pointless.  Waste of time.  Gross.  Don't do it.
 
Simple sketch:

See the spiral leakage path in blue and realize that this is a 3 dimensional object and that it is one long coil which is not sealed.
 
Again, this is basic.  Search anywhere about BSPP, BSPM, or JIC thread and see for yourself.  Everyone everywhere will recommend NOT using thread tape or thread dope because 1) it doesn't work properly (because they aren't tapered threads), and 2) it can cause tightening, mating, and sealing issues with the o-ring mating surface which is what was designed to form the seal in the first place.  And then, of course, in this application, it is especially harmful for shavings of thread tape to wind up in this cooling system's tiny passages.

GTXJackBauer
With that said, I suggest you spend some time redoing your loop.

In what way?

GTXJackBauer
No one here is saying do this to replace a faulty o-ring.  An O-ring is priority no question about it.  What you're overly explaining here is something in a commercial setting but we aren't running high pressurized loops Tyger.  I've been taping my threads this since the beginning of time while others were doing it longer than me.  Some were teachers, plumbers, engineers, etc.  I'm sure everyone around the globe will have a different approach and opinion.  No need to make it more complicating.  It's a PC loop. lol

As for your loop, I would never recommend that routing since the flow will enter and leave the least resistant as not all blocks will get an identical flow rate and the flow has to pass through the blocks again on its way out which leaves me to believe your bottom block is getting the most flow.  If you left the GPUs in parallel and had it leaving out the CPU block would be more logical.

GTXJackBauer

ty_ger07
 
Thanks for your unsolicited critique anyway.
 

 
You're the one that came in here trying to discredit me while I was helping another member.

You're treating PC loops as if they were some commercial piping in some high rise

not to mention you couldn't even figure out that your loop's routing was a huge no-no.  You should do some more research before going after others.

GTXJackBauer

ty_ger07
 
Parallel versus series loops is a choice.  It's not a right vs wrong thing.  You may be shocked to realize that I tested both series and parallel, didn't see much difference in performance, and choose parallel because it looked better.  Shocking!  I've been water cooling for 13 years.  Come on, give me some credit.
 

 
I wasn't implying that parrallel GPUs are a no-no but your routing to the CPU block and BACK to the GPUs in parrallel was a no-no.