evensen007
I did it boys! Tearing down my loop is always annoying, but this was SO worth it. Max Junction temp is now 78c! All temps went down across the board including hotspot and core. The gelid pads got backordered (and then cancelled), so I bought a combo of 1, 2, and 3mm Thermalright pads (12.8w). I actually made a mistake and had to tear it down twice which sucked BIG time. I tried to be clever and use 2mm pads on the front of the card. Well, as you can imagine that ruined the contact between the gpu core and the plate. I SHOULD HAVE CHECKED to make sure the thermal paste made a contact patch after screwing it back together argh. Anyhow, after going 1mm front, and a combo of 3mm amd 2mm on the back I'm all set! I did end up using the backplate so that I got pressure on the pads. I also stuck some extra pads on the back of the plate and stuck some mini aluminum heat-sinks to them. I have a loose noctua fan blowing some silent air directly at the backplate and this combo seems to be the trick. I didn't want to wait for a water cooled backplate (or pay EK for one), so this will do and I am very happy. Thanks to all of you for sharing your trials and errors which led me to this site and the ideas. 
 

This is on a Kingpin right?  So the whole face/die side is 1mm pads except the VRMs that have the puddy?
 
On another note:
 
 
 
We getting closer to B-Day.  Much excite... I took a peak, she's a nice lookin' board.

Welp it's all here, just a matter of getting it done... I've been up since 6PM yesterday, so it's time to crash out and get well rested before I start undertaking this system swappo.
Got all the HDDs & SSDs ready for the swap (except the new system's windows drive, of course), just need to finish grabbing drivers & then the hard part begins.
 

 
And yes, I took a peak... shiny! (already got some dust on it though, darn non-air-tight shipping boxes)
 

Dabadger84


Yolo! Ordered it!

 
Great!

Congrats man. Glad you finally pulled the 5950. Looking forward to some results on it in some other threads :-P

Ran a quick R20 run, temps were a bit higher than I'd prefer, peaked at 65C, that was also with 141W package draw according to HWInfo so I guess that's not too bad?
 
Apparently the score I'm getting now that I have the RAM's profile on & 1800MHz Infinity Fabric, I'm scoring better than most 3900x's do with PBO on... which I do not have on.

Dabadger84
I am so seriously disappointed.
 
Everything went well, I guess.  CPU block disassemble/reassemble was a bit tedious but I got it done reasonably fast... 
 
But, first booted up, GPU acting like no signal with GPU LED on the motherboard on, then I had to trouble shoot that, finally got in to a Windows install, then I could copy the latest BIOS to the USB stick to do that, got that done, now the GPU sometimes not displaying on boot seems to be fixed... however...
 
Yesterday I took the GPU out completely, radiator and all, cleaned it, put it back in, no issues, no new noise no nothing.
 
Today, I took it out to have it out of the way during the parts swap, reinstalled it...
 
RIDICULOUS PUMP NOISE.  I have tried everything I can think of to fix it.  Vertically mounting & letting it run like that for a while, removing it & the radiator from the system & making sure any bubbles present are up in the radiator... nothing makes any difference.  GPU itself temp wise seems to be fine, idling a bit warmer (26 instead of 22-24) than normal but my room temp is 72F so that's probably why.
 
Working on installing all the programs I need to get Windows back to the way it was on the other machine... but this pump noise on the GPU is actually insane.
I'm half tempted to reassemble the Intel system just to see if the pump noise is present on it too, or if this has something to do with the power being provided from the motherboard.
 
Things I can already say I don't like: Chipset on the X570 runs way too warm imo, 56-59C all the time, for what reason?  I don't understand why, unless it's running hot because of it having an M.2 plugged in to it... but I'm not even doing anything that is currently using that thing, it has some of my Steam Library on it... Steam isn't even installed yet.
 
The M.2s were both running warm as well but I put my RAM/VRM area fan & the M.2 fan down below the GPU back in and that seems to have helped those a lot, They're running in the 30s again instead of in the 40s.
 
So far the 3900x itself seems to be running pretty cool, not sure if I have a great mount or not, but it's idling in the low 30s, highest load temp (granted I haven't actually put it under a serious load yet) was 55, at a 63W load.  I'm suspicious that I don't have the best mount-flatness right now, but only way to tell would be to hit it with a proper load.
 
Is it normal to have such a crazy-high voltage stock on the CPU on AMD AM4 stuff?  I'll have to look in to that, I haven't touched anything voltage or otherwise yet, my first task when it comes to BIOS is getting XMP/DOHC on & trying to get the Infinity Fabric to 1:1.

Can't answer to the gpu pump noise but the rest I can give a handful of subjective pointers. Sadly chipset temps are high on the x570, it's why I went with the dark hero when I found one locally for basically msrp plus shipping. But 57 probably isn't bad if the fan isn't annoying. Yes stock voltage on AM4 is high, but load voltages matter more on amd. If you leave it stock its running well within standard settings, you can watch it swing significantly under load in HWinfo64. A lot of people suggest using core optimizer which is found under the advanced bios settings and then under Precision Boost Overdrive. I believe when you set that to advanced it gives the option for core optimizer. I have had mixed success there with only being able to match my manual overclock R23 score but only took a crack at it yesterday. 

So mine definitely gets the occasional bubble pass through in horizontal that it didn’t get in vertical orientation. Would it be possible to position your rad like Gamersnexus suggests running cpu aio’s with the fittings at the bottom for a couple days? I don’t think it’s the issue but maybe you could get the bubbles to eventually settle at a different spot in the radiator. So it wasn’t worth Rma’ing a card over but my radiator itself definitely had plenty of bent fins when I switched fans, maybe yours isn’t filled up quite full? They honestly just need to get the blocks done so we can stop messing with these aio systems. I hate these black lines and I’ve been waiting for months with a few meters of acrylic tube so I don’t have to do hardline multiple times.

Also I’ve seen some PCIE riser cables have issues with gen4 pcie slots. It’s why I switched mine for now, singularity only offers a gen 3 that mounts to the case and I tried to modify a gen4 but wasn’t happy with the result.

If it can make it to the block release I would hold out. Jacob said “mid April well have more info” but I can’t count the number of times I’ve heard that now. I am not betting on EVGA letting us get a second even as a separate sku with how high msrp has gotten elsewhere. But we’ll see, Im still signing up. I am trying to help my brother switch to a 30series and the 3080 queue hasn’t budged. I doubt they get to his 12/1 pre-order until 2022

Thanks so far for you doing the upgrade as I was looking into 5950x or 5900x. build but if temps are that much higher then I might wait or just build a i9 11900k system.
I was looking into building a i9 11900k but the reviews seem that its not much of a upgrade from i9 10900k.  
I did get a 980pro pcie 4.0.  now just need the rest of a system.  looks like amd might be too hot.  
 
Putting a Dynatron A31 amd Heatsink did help the kingpin cool the back of the card as I just used the copper heatsink with a 120mm fan blowing on it. 
So far my RMA 3090 kingpin has been quiet and working.  Have not updated it as my last card would not update the firmware.  I does a few scratches on it. 
Guess who ever gets my old card back will get a like new card as It was clean and even have the clear stickers on it.

wodell757
Thanks so far for you doing the upgrade as I was looking into 5950x or 5900x. build but if temps are that much higher then I might wait or just build a i9 11900k system.
I was looking into building a i9 11900k but the reviews seem that its not much of a upgrade from i9 10900k.  
I did get a 980pro pcie 4.0.  now just need the rest of a system.  looks like amd might be too hot.  
 
Putting a Dynatron A31 amd Heatsink did help the kingpin cool the back of the card as I just used the copper heatsink with a 120mm fan blowing on it. 
So far my RMA 3090 kingpin has been quiet and working.  Have not updated it as my last card would not update the firmware.  I does a few scratches on it. 
Guess who ever gets my old card back will get a like new card as It was clean and even have the clear stickers on it.

I mean the only thing running warm is the chipset.  Everything else seems quite nice.  65C load under Cinebench R20 and that's with the stock voltage which I think is too high but I'm still doin' research seeing how I can adjust it without causing the weird performance bug I say from just doing a straight 1.35V setting (resulted in R20 only using 86% of CPU instead of 100%, no idea why).  I'm also still tweaking memory settings of course, that will take some time.  Idling in Windows in the low 30s.  I do think I need to check my mount, but since I have a 5950x coming next week, I probably won't bother... why waste the past when this CPU is only going to be in the system for a week.
 
Rebooting again to adjust some timings because I noticed the BIOS has TRC set to 85 & the SPD for 3600MHz says to set it to 50. 
 
 

So how does it feel compare to the i9 9900k.  Guess no gaming yet to see the fps tho.
Guess finding something in stock would be the main problem right now.  So i'll keep 
looking for either i9 11900k or the 5950k or 5900k.  

wodell757
So how does it feel compare to the i9 9900k.  Guess no gaming yet to see the fps tho.
Guess finding something in stock would be the main problem right now.  So i'll keep 
looking for either i9 11900k or the 5950k or 5900k.  

Haven't done any gaming yet, and since it's a 3900x at present, it's unlikely it'll beat the 9900K by much if at all, even with the tuned RAM & Infinity Fabric, until I get the 5950x in.  I really wasn't expecting to get a 5000-series CPU for at least a month or two, had I known I was going to win the Newegg Shuffle the other day I would've bought a cheap cheap 3000-series instead just to get the BIOS flashed (because I don't want to mess with the flashback feature) then just went straight to the 5950x.
 

Clovis559
I came to check on your setup. I don’t think my hwinfo is reading the sensors right. My CPU idles at like 18-22c, sometimes heats up to 30-33c when I’m not doing anything, Cinebench R20 30-33c. Then when Conebench is done, it stays at 30c for a bit. (Stock) I knew I was going out of town so I was kinda a butt about playing with it. 
 
One thing a bummer, my quick disconnects cut my flow down. The passage is clearly not 3/8’s. I’m going to try to find a different connect.  Also they don’t have good flow unless pushed together. I could show a pick of how ridiculous it is later. I have some art twine wrapped around the clamps to pinch them together.
 
Is your CPU on water yet? I cannot wait for a block either. My Koolance block works okay. At oeast it doesn’t clog (though unfairly I have filters on the loop now).

 
Pretty sure the 3900x runs warmer than either of the 5000-series options do stock vs stock, but I could be wrong.  I'm idling in the 30-35C range, only time my loads get high is if I'm doing all core testing with like R20 or something - I do think I may have a bad mount or maybe not proper/even pressure, but like I said, since I'm getting the 5950x in on Tuesday or Wednesday, I'm not going to mess with it & waste thermal paste, just going to wait & do the CPU swap, then we'll see how temps are.
 
Kinda ridiculous how the X570 chipset fan is setup, I booted up (room got cool last night) and the chipset was at a nice 39C... but the chipset fan didn't turn on until it warmed up to 55C.  Like... what's the point of even HAVING a fan if it's not going to actually try & keep the chipset COOL lol  It probably doesn't help that the fan area is pretty well covered by the video card... sure there's a gap, but there's not much airflow I don't think.
 
I did skip the air cooler completely though, I was determined yesterday to get everything done in one go, so I very paranoid-ly took the CPU block apart, swapped the mounting bracket (which was not fun, I also dropped the finned/base plate and got what little coolant was still on it everywhere, but no biggie was only a few drops) - had problems getting it back together at first because one of the screws didn't want to go in... fixed that by tightening the other 3 almost all the way, then the last one lined up & went in fine.
 
I think part of the reason my stock vs stock idles are higher with this CPU is because even at "idle" it's still running in the 20-30W range power draw wise most of the time... so considering that, 30-35C really isn't too bad.
 
Does the 5000-series show individual core temperatures in HWInfo?  Because this setup doesn't, which is a bummer.
 
Also, how warm is your 980 Pro M.2 running?  Do you have any active cooling on it or just the shroud/heatsink?  And how annoying is that chipset/M.2 setup on this board? lol I found it pretty ridiculous.  Right now (idle) my Windows 1TB 980 Pro is at 31C/34C on it's drive temps, and the 2TB Games 980 Pro is at 33C/38C - keep in mind the bottom one does have a fan blowing area over the area (albeit at 900RPM, it's still more airflow than it would be getting directed at it otherwise) - pretty sure the 2TB ran cooler in the old system, but then again in that system it was running at PCIe Gen 3 not Gen 4, so perhaps that's part of it.

@Clovis559 Is it me, or does PBO on the latest BIOS kind of do absolutely nothing?  I turned it on just to see what it does... and other than slightly increasing load temps, I don't think I've noticed any noticeable difference in clocks etc.  I went ahead & turned it back off - It seems like I'm getting solid enough gains from just the memory tuning I've done (enabling DOCP & setting some of the secondary timings manually because they were wrong).
 
The extra 5-6C in load temps is most definitely not worth the ~50pt gained in R20 lol
 

alpharius194

wodell757
So how does it feel compare to the i9 9900k.  Guess no gaming yet to see the fps tho.
Guess finding something in stock would be the main problem right now.  So i'll keep 
looking for either i9 11900k or the 5950k or 5900k.  

What games do you play? The 9900k was solid, that’s the one the 11900k feels like an improvement over not the 10900k. The Ryzen may net you a few fps and I did feel like my averages were a bit better but I don’t have fps graphs for them.

In hwinfo on ryzen 5000 we don’t get per core temps but the ccx temps are basically an average across that half’s cores. Ccx0 is considered the stronger half and ccx1 will be a few degrees cooler. My 5900x idles around 30C at 21C ambient with tf8 paste (first time not using cryonaut) and the ek magnitude block (Titan rig had them on sale before xmas at around $160) but i can’t compare temps with my 9900k, i forgot I had silicon lottery delid it so it idled under 30. From what I’ve gathered the 5000ryzen idles under 40 with okay cooling with air coolers thinking 40-45 is acceptable-ish. Haven’t seen anyone mention under 30

Sounds the 5900x is pretty similar in temps, maybe a bit lower, which would make sense.  I'm hoping the 5950x I get is a decent chip - not really planning to do all core OC, but I might try it, depends on how it behaves.  I think I'm looking forward to NOT having "Not Responding" in my task manager anymore when running 10 instances... especially on the 5950x.  Going from 8 to 16 cores is pawgers.
 
Thanks for the info on the CCD1/CCD2 being the "die" temps for each side of the chip, I didn't know that.
 
I would try going for 4.3+ all core on this 3900x, but since I'm only going to be using it a few more days, I figured I'll just not do any OCing on it at all so I can state that in the resale description :-P Not overclocked cuz I dunno **** I'm doing yet.
 
I swear either just the Asus BIOS on this board, or just because it's a 3000-series, there really isn't much in the way of obvious OC settings either, that I can find.  I can't even find the power limit stuff for the most part.  I was going to set it to be able to draw up to 140% like was suggested in a JayzTwoCents video, but that doesn't seem to have done anything either... as it sits, it boost to between 4100 & 4175MHz all core.  The voltage being so high would be worrisome if this were going to be a long term chip... that's one reason I will probably look in to manually tuning my 5950x - I'd rather run it at a lower voltage/lower speed (for non-all core workloads) than have it running at stock & using voltage that's possibly degrading the chip over time.

The 3000 series cpus didn’t see noticeable uplift from overclocking to the best of my knowledge. From what I can tell, auto ryzen voltages seem to respond well to load levels and will not degrade themselves without applying a set voltage like intel but I have found my cpu to really perform better with a negative voltage offset which I didn’t understand coming from intel. It keeps my cpu from ever hitting 1.5v and my temps in r23 runs steady about 2C lower than left at auto with a higher score. So this video is what I’ve been using to mess with core optimizer but I think it doesn’t work as well with dynamic oc because it adjusts the whole V/F graph but dynamic oc choses between multi and single thread based on Amp draw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dU5qLJqTSAc

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