underwraps

Msi L dual fans at 55% are almost silent
You need a water block on this card if the fan is that Loud.

The more I think about how this card was designed and all the extra parts it needs to make everything work smoothly is to suck in the consumer to spend more than what is actually needed. This is a shrewd marketing strategy. 
I hope the marketers are getting their fair share of profits on this

Like I said - the cooler on the Classified is much larger than reference 680s. You can't compare the Classified to the Lightning as it is apples to oranges - one blows out (Classified) and one dumps heat into your case (Lightning). No need to troll.

For me is that important thing blowing air from graphic card out of case. Gentle Typhoon AP-15 can't do much if 3000RPM blow 80-85C on powersupply and motherboard always during gaming. 
It's now maybe 70C in gaming but later with new better driver and with stronger games temps will be around 80C never mind what cooler you use. Usually is like that. And of course Classified cards are stronger than all non reference design cards. Than you have heat out of case, double RAM, better voltage regulation section, more phases, and at the end design if you think on that. 
Me - 100% for Classified or stock with double video memory.
 
Other sell backplates on card only on exsepensive models, others are without that raise the cost of DCII models and because if you tuch screew you lose warranty with many manufacturer.
With this you can change, you have video how to do that. Some cards are for SLI and extreme overclockers, of course some of them will open to remove backplate. Than better option in shop and who need buy one for top card. Who want without than leave without...
 
Some can buy 4 cards with backplate and they maybe must to remove backplate from 3 or all.
He will say Better to sell without this like before,
I pay 3 backplate or 4 and need only one. That is 100$ more, ... Why??? Do you have pack cheaper without backplate.  
Always will some people complain.

Can I get the bios please underwraps? I don't have 10 posts yet so I can't PM. :(
 
*EDIT : Thanks razym!

I was looking for one myself. Well, two really 
 
There's not much information about block compatibility with GTX680 Classified cards. I don't even care about full cover blocks. We have one coming out in 1-3 weeks here (though supply may be fairly low, so pick them up fast). I need information on what universal blocks are compatible, and I can't find any 
 

smartikat

Ok, a few post ago, hidden in a wall of text...  

Danger Den Waterblock for 680 Classified?  Full coverage block???

Anyway, I checked both performance-pcs and Danger Den website...  The Classified is clearly listed as compatible.  I left a email message with Danger Den trying to confirm.  We shall see.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=631&cat=48&page=1#tabs

smartikat

Ok, a few post ago, hidden in a wall of text...  

Danger Den Waterblock for 680 Classified?  Full coverage block???

Anyway, I checked both performance-pcs and Danger Den website...  The Classified is clearly listed as compatible.  I left a email message with Danger Den trying to confirm.  We shall see.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=631&cat=48&page=1#tabs

Careful with Danger Den water blocks as they are very heavy; 3 pounds each, that's twice as heavy compared to other brands.

Stock cooler Junk..   Highest i can get is 1430mhz @ 1.35v on core and on AIR so iv given up on stretching further.   The second the GPU reaches 79-80 degrees it thermal throttles. (LN2 pos)   I will wait and push it and post up my big single classified scores with water in couple weeks and see how it does.   ;)
 
Iv built another system so plenty more to go...

1300/1800 some have with AIR. 
That's interesting clock for me. 
 
razym what is your temps with that clock on 1.212V ???
... but you have too cards. With one is probably little less.
I must to look for EVboot too on caseking or performace.pc
 
What can I do without EVBoot...???  
 

Vlada011 I was getting upwards of 85C. My fans were at 100%.  However, keep in mind it was around 47C outside that day. I believe it was at least roughly 31C inside. When gaming (borderlands and trine 2 coop mostly that night), temps never went past 70-72C.
 
I got to 1300 and stopped when I saw my temps. It was a heatwave anyways and not the best time to push hardware and more of a time to underclock if you didn't want fried chips. Apparently some people are getting to 1350, but that's also not something I'd go on air.
 
In other words, it may have been a fluke. I won't know until I put my system back together and either add just a CPU loop or cool both GPUs with water as well.
 
You can do modest overclocks with this particular bios without an EVBot. An EVBot lets your voltage go even higher. Remember, this bios caps at 1.212. An EVBot goes up to 1.35, if I recall correctly.
 

Vlada011

1300/1800 some have with AIR. 
That's interesting clock for me. 

razym what is your temps with that clock on 1.212V ???
... but you have too cards. With one is probably little less.
I must to look for EVboot too on caseking or performace.pc

What can I do without EVBoot...???  

*crickets*
 

Dwensel2001

Horus1

When is the GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper edition supposed to come out? I have been waiting and waiting and waiting I want it now darn it I have my system built just neeeeeed that component.

I second this!!! Some new tidbits of information would be great (ie. price, picture of the block, clocks, etc.)

***HINT HINT***

Maybe even a more specific release date. Best we have is end of August.

razym
can you share the 680 classified modded bios for me?
i wanna change the voltage (1.212V)
but i dont know how to do that
help me please

Just like the 580 Classy, the only option for a water block will most likely only be from Swiftech (from EVGA).  It's the only way I would run a 680 Classified...under water.  I bet we get some very good results after the block is released.  Should be a fun time!:)

I hope that the amount of radiators you have is just you being careful... I'm going with a 140 quad + 120 single. Not sure if that would be enough cooling for a Tri-SLI classy though... Might need to add a duo 140. Thoughts?

Bajawah
First off : Is there any way to turn that damn white LED off on my Classy? It lights up the whole damn room.

 
I like that, led from HW not from fans.
And I like small cathode when don't see light sourse only shine little.

smartikat

Regarding Universal Block.  I am currently using the EK Universal blocks for my 3way SLi.  Temp is around 31c idle and 45c heavy load.  I can hit 1400 easy.

Now, the problem.  The RAM gets hot really fast.  I have heat sinks on all of them, but honestly, you need a lot of cooling to cool them all down properly.  But for a watercooled box, you usually don't have a lot of internal fans.

The first week I have this setup, my system will crash (hard locked) after an hour use, not even under load.  And the heatsink would be extremely hot to touch.  I ended up hooking 3 FANS directly blowing at the heatsinks, and another one blow the heat out at the back.  Now, the box is stable as a rock and I can OC it as I wish without problem.  But the noise is crazy.  Watercooling is NOT supposed to be like this.

So, don't bother with the universal block.  Not worth it.  The moment the full coverage block comes out, I will be switching.

 
FABULOUS info brother, thank you for sharing this.  will certainly save people lots of time and frustration:)

mtechx 

I hope that the amount of radiators you have is just you being careful... I'm going with a 140 quad + 120 single. Not sure if that would be enough cooling for a Tri-SLI classy though... Might need to add a duo 140. Thoughts? 

 
 
Definitely being careful. I live my life with two rules:
 
1. Measure six times, cut once.
2. Always better to have more than not enough.
 
Technically, a nice thick radiator with low FPI (say, the RX360) can handle two SLI cards and a CPU easily. A 120.1 can handle a CPU easily too. 
 
So, by your build, the quad can handle your cards and your 120 single can handle your CPU easily. However...
 

thebski
What kind of rads? What kind of fans? What fan configuration? What is your ambient temp? What kind of performance (temp delta) are you expecting? Etc

 
He's right. What radiators are we talking about, in terms of thickness and FPI? If it's a bunch of high speed fans like the 140mm 1800rpm blaster fans then they are louder, but can be fan speed controlled to be superior to the gentle typhoons that are almost dead silent. Ambient temperatures topped 45C here but it's cooled down to about 30-32C, so that's also important.
 
Anyways, I think a dual radiator setup (in any case) will top one radiator. Whether or not you go for huge tdelta performance for overclocking or pure silence, it's always better to have more than enough cooling than not enough. I used to have a spreadsheet to calculate how much heat transfer in BTU and watts that your setup would cool and how it would affect flow rate, but if you can find one, you can calculate if your setup above is enough and how much you can even OC it by and keep performance high.