Hi guys,
I recently purchased an Hydro Copper waterblock for my RTX 2080 BE and I'm having issues with temps.
I already tried reinstalling the block 7 times, checking for the TIM application on the block, prints on the thermal pads, tried to mount with and without the GPU bracket but didn't get any luck.
Temps are around 70°C under load in FurMark.
What could I try that I didn't yet ?
 

Here are pictures I just took when uninstalling for the 8th time the waterblock (that was without the GPU bracket). I had pretty much the same results (and temps) with the GPU bracket on.

I tested the cooling on my CPU and there is no problem in temps (60 max in prime95 on smallest fft). Wouldn't a bad flow rate impact negatively my CPU cooling too ?
 
As for my loop I'm using an EK XRES D5 PWM pump, a Hydro Copper waterblock for my RTX 2080, a EK Velocity waterblock for my 8700k and a 360mm slim radiator from EK. Everything is wired up using soft tubing and EK compression fittings.

jeanbono
I tested the cooling on my CPU and there is no problem in temps (60 max in prime95 on smallest fft). Wouldn't a bad flow rate impact negatively my CPU cooling too ?
 
As for my loop I'm using an EK XRES D5 PWM pump, a Hydro Copper waterblock for my RTX 2080, a EK Velocity waterblock for my 8700k and a 360mm slim radiator from EK. Everything is wired up using soft tubing and EK compression fittings.

How is this setup?
Like
EK XRES D5 PWM pump - 360mm slim radiator - GPU - CPU - back to EK XRES D5 PWM pump
or
Like
EK XRES D5 PWM pump - 360mm slim radiator - CPU - GPU - back to EK XRES D5 PWM pump
 
What Model is your EK Velocity Water Block?
 
Your 360mm slim radiator is not even good enough for the GPU alone.
 
If going to the CPU First then the Flow to the GPU could be Poor as well as dumping the heat from the CPU into the GPU.
Even Under Water the RTX Graphics Cards Run HOT. You need 2 Loops or at least a Second 360mm Radiator (Non-Slim) for the GPU.

 

EK D5 PWM pump is some G2 version. That pump have changes and customers report more problems then with original D5 with speed controller.
Some of them say that didn't know why temps are bad before they didn't change pump. If pump is bad you can get nice temp on first component connected but much worse on second component no matter on pump speed even if you keep increase pump speed.
 
Listen my advice, stay with Laing D5 w speed controlller and Watercool.de parts. Much better build quality.
They not made products in Asia. Aqua Computer and Watercool.de build parts in Germany.
 
Politic of companies best could be explained with this, if my glass crash accidentally... (off course that will not happen).. I need to pay 150 euro to EKWB if I want same model.
I need to buy and D5 Pump PWM G2 together. If glass reservoir crash with Heatkiller I pay 19 euro, and for that money I even get coffee cup with their Logo. Don't even to talk about other compatibility and opportunity to switch on completely different pump or extend reservoir size or add RGB in same reservoir-pump combo you have.
No one on market ever in previous 20 years offer such compatibility and quality together in watercooling industry.

Than something else is problem. Weird because I didn't notice people who complain on contact on EVGA Hydro Copper models before and this year.
 

jeanbono
The first component in my loop is actually my RTX 2080 but like I said I get nice temps on my CPU (which is right after my GPU).

OK how is it set up In and Out on what Ports?
Myself I use All Koolance Products for Pumps and Radiators and so on.

Too much tim isn't a problem.

I was using a HC block on my 2080 Ti KPE and getting bad temps. With the stock AIO, I'd see high 30s and into the low to mid 40s while gaming with the fans maxed under the OC BIOS. With the HC, mid to high 40s. This is above what I would see with full cover waterblocks (EK) on a 1080, 1080 Ti, 2080 or 2080 Ti. 
 
I went through all the nonsense of trying different TIMs, application methods etc. What fixed it was ditching the HC block and installing a EK-VGA Supremacy GPU block. Now temps stay in the low to mid 30s while gaming. Idle temps are around 22-23c. 
 
Look on the bright side, your HC block didn't cost $300. 
 
Loop is 2x EK 240 PE rads, 4 Corsair ML120 fans at a fixed 40%, EK D5 PWM pump at a fixed 100%, 8086K with a EK velocity block, Thermalright TFX TIM. 
 
...and loop order doesn't matter. The whole thing will equalize. Your ambient air temp will make a much bigger difference than loop order. 

Hey guys,
Thanks for all the answers.
Here are pictures of the pcb & block cleaned up. I checked and everything seems pretty flat to me...

bp7178
I was using a HC block on my 2080 Ti KPE and getting bad temps. With the stock AIO, I'd see high 30s and into the low to mid 40s while gaming with the fans maxed under the OC BIOS. With the HC, mid to high 40s. This is above what I would see with full cover waterblocks (EK) on a 1080, 1080 Ti, 2080 or 2080 Ti. 
 
I went through all the nonsense of trying different TIMs, application methods etc. What fixed it was ditching the HC block and installing a EK-VGA Supremacy GPU block. Now temps stay in the low to mid 30s while gaming. Idle temps are around 22-23c. 
 
Look on the bright side, your HC block didn't cost $300. 
 
Loop is 2x EK 240 PE rads, 4 Corsair ML120 fans at a fixed 40%, EK D5 PWM pump at a fixed 100%, 8086K with a EK velocity block, Thermalright TFX TIM. 
 
...and loop order doesn't matter. The whole thing will equalize. Your ambient air temp will make a much bigger difference than loop order. 

How did you mount your Supremacy block? I had/having the same problem and am looking for a fix.

360mm slim is more than the 240mm slim that the AiO comes with. Should perform better.

Try clean cpu block first then all other component like radiator and the pump, see if that help with temp. If not, buy different block from other company (EK, Alphacool,Heatkiller). I know this might sound waste of money buying another block, but at lease you'll know what or which gpu block is the faulty one

Cool GTX

Jahusaphet
360mm slim is more than the 240mm slim that the AiO comes with. Should perform better.

Has the 8700K CPU on the same loop - post #5

Very true, I did not see that. Sorry for the mistake.

Too me that looks like a lot of thermal compound on that GPU... and I do agree that there is no such thing as too much thermal compound since the mounting pressure will simply squeeze the excess out... However the excess can only be squeezed out if the mounting pressure is ample and everything is making good contact, make sure that you are tightening everything down correctly and that the block is sitting flush. What thermal pads are you using? 
 
Regarding loop order, I will say that generally speaking it does not matter...
 
How is your flow rate? Could you possibly provide a close up picture of your CPU block? Did you take the CPU block apart before adding it to the loop? Also when running Prime95 what version were you using and did you have AVX fully disabled? Was the CPU overclocked when running Prime95?