For instance, if I got all of the pieces now to cool my CPU, could I disassemble it later when I get a new mobo/cpu and then use the same parts to WC my new CPU? If so, that would help me justify the expenses :P
 
Also, roughly how much would it cost to cool my CPU? What about my CPU and 2 GPUs? Is it very difficult to set up for someone who has never done it before? Thanks a lot in advance.

So, watercooling parts are like a case in terms of upgrades: once you have a good one you never really need to upgrade?

Really the only thing you cannot re-use in a water loop is the GPU blocks (if you have them)  CPU blocks can generally be adapted to any new socket with a change in the mount plate.  GPU blocks (full cover) can rarely be used on another GPU.  IF you buy a GPU only block the same rules apply as a CPU block.

Yes, just start with the CPU.  Just get your feet wet.  Only you know what your physically capable of.  If you don't feel comfortable just keep posting pictures and questions and we will take care of you.

I most cases the only thin you end up replacing is tubing with depending on what you use is between 1.50 and 5.00 a foot, and depending on your loop you normally have 5-7 feet some bigger ones go alot higher.
Good example of reusable blocks.  A while back I got a dirt cheap Agopee GTZ block, its a couple years old, but, it was there basically to keep the temps lower as it was a HOT household AND to keep it REALLY quiet.  Now it was a block originally for 775, AM2 and 939/940.  On Swiftechs site there was a collection of adapters all about 10$ a piece, for 1156, 1366, even socket F (1207) for Opterons.  The only time you would likely need to replace a CPU block, is if there was a CPU coming out that was VEYR much larger to where the waterblock would not have adequate surface area to cover the CPU.  Otherwise, give it a few weeks, your old block will likely have a new adapter for it.
 
GPU waterblocks will likely need replacement with new GPUs, as there is SO much difference in PCB and component location and size.  I personally have reused ALOT of parts over the years.

If all you want to do is lower the sonud you could go with high-end air or a self contained LC like the Corsair H70. I have one with soon to be 2xCM Excalibur fans and I can only hear my 2 470s.

I never actually tested it properly with the stock fans but idle temps dropped ~3c just changing the 2 stock fans to one Excalibur and getting my second today and changing the fan set-up cause I can tell I have neg air pressure.

Your first hurdle in Watercooling, is to quit looking at the price.
Every time the loop comes down I trash the tubing and buy new, it's fairly cheap.  Now with fittings, I only use compression fittings from BP myself. Some people use barbs with clamps. all prefrence really, the compression fittings look alot cleaner in alot of cases. I have compression fittings I still use that are 2-3 years old, same with pumps. I just retired a res thats been in several loops and looks as good as the day I bought it. 
 
Alot of it comes down to what you want as far as looks. Compression fittings are $8-10 each, most items come with barbs for free. 
 
Your choice of the coolant is a large topic of argument also. I run a non conductive fluid. And the one time I did have a fitting failure years back (by my own noobish mistake) the loop drained almost 2 liters of coolant all over 3 video cards, my motherboard, and my CPU. I had no damage, took DAYS to clean off the boards, but no damage at all. I use the FluidXP line, they were highly recommended by PPCS back then, and thats what sprayed all over my board when I had the spill and took no damage, so thats what I still use.
 
Cost of my loop? $900-1000 probally, not all bought at once, over the years, just spent another $500 on it this week for upgrades.

Alot of it is fairly intuitive, and you can always get pics and post as you go and ask questions.  I have had leaks before, and I had a acrylic top to 355 with a res top shattered..... really couldnt say why, and it hose down a few aprts. Frankly, I have seen WAAAAAY more damage from  failed PSUs than I have from water. 
Also, bench test it, where you can babysit it and get to it easily, outside your case as this is your first attempt.  So if somehting starts to go wrong you can pull power and dry it up without alot of stuff in the way.
Dont worry, i know it can be daunting your first time, but this whole community has your back, we can assist and answer any questions..... juast get pics of ANYTHING you have questions on.  Many of us here have built a dozen + ourselves, and likely 100+ via forums like this.

What kind of temp decrease should I expect if I WC my CPU? Right now the core temps usually idle in the high 30s C at stock.

Is there any way that I could get by with spending ~$300, just to get me started? I could always upgrade individual components later, right?

Halo_003

Pssh yeah. $300 is enough for a very nice CPU loop.

What do you like more, Copper or nickel?
Do you want a bay res, or tube?
What fans will you be using on the rad?
Do you want to use barbs or compressions?

After I know this I can set you up a nice list.

 
TBH, I have no knowledge of the differences to even know what to look for. Is there any way that you could make a complete list of what all I need, as cheap as possible for a CPU loop, but with something that is still of decent quality? I mean, I know with everything you get what you pay for, but I'm just getting my feet wet when it comes to this stuff so I don't need $500 worth of parts or anything. 
 
EDIT: At $300 I'm still on the fence about getting a kit, but if I could spend ~$200, I would strongly consider taking the plunge, lol.
 
Also, are there any other small things that I should know about? For example, when I clean out my fan filters I usually unplug my computer and take it into another room down the hall so that I have more light to see when I take everything apart. Will having a WC setup require extra precautions when doing things such as this?

Halo_003

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekwaekhffuni.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekradxt2401.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/x2o750du5bay.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big14mabl1id.html x 8
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html x 8


Total cost: $250.45

And with regards to extra precautions.. Unless you mount the rad external, not really. If you do you wanna be careful of course, but otherwise nah.

 
Thanks!! How does that compare to the ones that were linked earlier?

Some say it is, some say it isn't. I've used dyed liquid for years and never had any issues. Guess it's all in who you use. I run FluidXP

Louisville15

Halo_003

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekwaekhffuni.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekradxt2401.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/x2o750du5bay.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big14mabl1id.html x 8
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html x 8


Total cost: $250.45

And with regards to extra precautions.. Unless you mount the rad external, not really. If you do you wanna be careful of course, but otherwise nah.

Thanks!! How does that compare to the ones that were linked earlier?

 
It should be a fair amount better than the others. And I would recommend using distilled water and a silver kill coil, and if you want color go for colored tubing.