to much voltage. or to high a memory over clock for the voltage your using.

gpu memory.

too much technical talk for me..just jump in and bench and see what happens...:)

It's here...the new Swiftech Apogee XT... (the Heatkiller killer)!!! It is more restrictive than the Heatkiller...but doesn't hurt me using it just in a cpu loop and nothing more pumping can't solve.  I will post the results.
 

 
 
I can't believe Sidewinder forgot to add my Shin-Etsu X23-7783D thermal paste... arg!!!  Glad I ordered some  MX-2 and MX-3.  Don't get me wrong... I love Gary and Sidewinder... they must have been swamped... still recovering from their move to a bigger building.

probably let the hose ride up in the res..(guessing)

70°C!?  OUUCHH?!  I know my chip quite well... the closer the chip gets to 50°C... the more prone to crash.  47°C seems to be the threshold.<-----my chip has been above this and still gotten 63k to 65k cpu scores, but will crash if it hits about 78 or so.

johnksss

probably let the hose ride up in the res..(guessing)

Not even close
but i fixed the problem.  back to benching for the day

I will put it to you this way... I made Prestone soda 

Well... the new Swiftech XT waterblock beat my old Swiftech GTZ by 10*C.  It was supposed to be better but not that much better.  I was trying to figure out what it was... so I opened up the old block and found this debris.  I guess I will have to try the old block out again after I clean it and see how much better it really was. 
 
One thing I love about the Swiftech block is the mounting system... you have to love it!  Also the new block's inlet can be rotatated 180 degrees providing more space between the 2 hose barbs which will be nice as 2 peices of Armaflex pipe insulation should fit nicely now.
 

Another Power Predicament:

I spent 300.00 for the PC Power and Cooling 860W PS.  That gives me over 64 amps on that single rail, and I am only using just a PCI-E 8 pin, and 6 pin cable to power the primary 295 in the SLI system. 
(http://www.microcenter.co...ml?product_id=0282286)

Now for that same 300.00 I can get an 1100W ABS power supply
(http://www.newegg.com/Pro...?Item=N82E16817814019)
When comparing the 2 PS's side by side I came up with the ups and downs, considering they both cost the same. 

PROS:
1.  More power: 83A, vs 64A on the 12 volt side (its continuous, not peak power)
2.  More efficient: 87%+ to my known 83%
3.  Modular: (i don't need all the extra wires clogging up the case when only using 2 connections)

CONS:
1. PC P&C has a SEVEN year warranty vs the 3 of the abs

Other considerations:
1.  Already own the PC P&C, no work need be done
2.  Have to shell out the $300 upfront to buy the new abs  from newegg.

Opinions? 

ABS = Tagan

It would seem that the ABS "Dark Beret" series would not be in the same league as PC Power & Cooling PSU's... maybe the "Tagan" series... but I really love the old school single rail concept of the PC Power & Cooling.

PC Power & Cooling Single rail FTW!!!

OC333-  The ABS is also single rail... and more power, and more efficient, and modular

Sgtharry- The Power supply blows cold air out of it.  Heat is not an issue on my computer.  The "chiller" chiller goes through 2 triple rads and a double, which cools off the entire case like air conditioning.

I am going to be the devils advocate... the ABS says its 1100W continuous at 50°C. 

(none of the PC P&C sites work for some reason so you have to directly paste )

Oh no! And you can't RMA them either, or you'd get Co-Ops. If I RMA my 295, I'd want to see if I could work it out with EVGA so that I get a Classified 285 instead of a Co-Op, with the difference in price($379 vs $530) in EVGA bucks added to my account.

johnksss

just need to get back to basics again...when doing allot of changing...you generally have to start sort of over and change your voltage around. start lower and lower over clocks..sometimes the lowers give you better..then after a short break in period yet again...then you should be able to run your original config.

I Don't know why that is John?  But I think you're right...as unscientific as it sounds, it seems to be true.  You find you can't run anything, even though temps are lower than before...you start just toying around running low clocks, off the wall settings for a few days...then find you're working your way back up to your original settings and....now everything works again?!!!  Strange...