ISSUE RESOLVED, THE GPU WAS DEFECTIVE, ALL IS GOOD WITH THE REPLACEMENT CARD.
 
 
TL;DR
- New PC kept tripping the breaker
- Re-did entire wiring in a freshly built apartment
- Replaced every single component except for GPU Let me be clear on this since many people are misunderstanding, here are the list of components I tested:

• CPU: Intel i7-12700k / AMD R7 5800X / AMD R7 5600X
• MOBO: Gigabyte Z690i / MSI B550i / Asrock B550i / Asus B550i
• SSD: Samsung EVO 970 Plus 1TB / SK Hynix Gold 1TB
• PSU: Cooler Master V850 / Corsair SF600 / Corsair SF750 / EVGA SuperNOVA850 / SilverStone SX1000
• Cooler: Asetek 645LT / EVGA CLC280 / EK-AIO 210
• Keyboard: Keychron K8 / Logitech G915TKL
• Mouse: Razor Orochi V2 / Logitech G305
• Case: Dan Cases A4 v2 / Aklla A4 v2 / FormD T1 v2
• Monitor: Acer EI342CKR / Samsung CRG9 / 7" USB HDMI monitor from Aliexpress
• UPS: APC UPS1500VA / CyberPower PR1500LCD
• Circuit breaker: 15A 20A 25A 60A Nothing but the PC in the circuit (+ monitor)
• Cables: I only used whatever came with the PSU. When I replaced the PSU, I replaced all cables including the 120v power cable as well.

- Moved to a new house (again, freshly built)
- Replaced 3080 with 3050, problem disappeared
- Created my own CP2077 character for the first time in 2 years
- I'm stupid
 

I bought my EVGA RTX 3080 -KR, Non-lhr just before Cyberpunk 2077 came out.
 
Since then, the PC kept tripping the 15A breaker in a brand new apartment (I was the first tenant) whenever I put the PC under load (AAA game, rendering, streaming, etc.).
 
I thought there must be something wrong with the wiring, so I had the management office redo the entire wiring and ground cable, but the problem never went away. Of course, adding an 1500W UPS didn't help either.
 
Over the period of 2 years, I replaced ALL components except GPU. New CPU (intel 10th gen to R7 5800x), new MOBO, new SSD, new RAM, new PSU, and even a new freaking case.
 
But the issue persisted and my life got busy along the way, so I just quit playing games, and most importantly, stopped using that problematic PC until I recently moved to a newly built house.
 
At this new place I just moved in, I was curious whether or not if it was actually the PC that was causing the issue or the apartment's wiring, so I hooked up the PC for the first time in months and it tripped the breaker while updating Windows.
 
I didn't give up, and this time, to 100% confirm my theory, I connected the PC to a 60A circuit that my Tesla charger is connected to (car wasn't charging), and it tripped that too.
 
The only option left for me was to try a different GPU and I happened to have an EVGA RTX 3050 laying around from work so I hooked that up, turned it on, and it's been running Cyberpunk 2077 for an hour.
 
For the first time in 2+ years, I now have a character of my own in Cyberpunk.
 
I feel like I wasted so much time to realize such an apparent cause of the issue, but at this point, I'm just happy that I no longer have to deal with this bullcrap anymore.
 
I'm calling EVGA first thing in the morning at 5AM PST and getting this effin defective card replaced.
 
Looks like I even purchased an extended warranty in the past, it's got 1154 days left lol.

This story makes no sense.
Arc fault breakers, maybe?

This story just doesn't make sense. A 6600 watt breaker (I know it isn't "6600 watt", but for the sake of this comparison, it doesn't matter) tripping from a ~400 watt video card through a PSU through a 1500 watt UPS? There is just no way. If anything, it would be the PSU or UPS which was faulty.

It can't be amperage which is tripping it. Something else, something else.

Looks like a PSU issue here though...

Edit: What PSU models did you try the card on anyway? Not the brand or wattage, the actual model.

I see. Did you try an SFX-L PSU? Would it fit in the case you use?

It sounds like bad news if the SX1000 from Silverstone tripped the breaker too.

Is the card under warranty? You could try having EVGA replace it and see if this happens with the new card too

It is perfectly normal if the load is so sudden and high that you end up within the breaker's tripping curve, regardless of the current rating of the breaker.

Thing is, all SFX and SFX-L PSUs currently on the market use the same two topologies. Both of which do not play well with very sudden immerse loads.

PSUs with high capacitance do better in theory in this regard, but this is countered if they use multiple transformers (ie the Silverstone SFX-L 1000 watt).

TLDR version: The big capacitors on the so called "primary" side of the PSU empty cause of the sudden load, tripping the breakers.

if the breaker has a little "test button" it is probably an ark fault breaker, as they are the Current "new" standard/ requirement - at least in the US
 
What else is on "that breaker" besides the PC ?

the second variable you've introduced is that the 3080 is a much more powerful GPU than 3050. I'd be interested to know if another high power GPU causes issues.
 
As others have said, AFCI breakers are notorious for "nuisance tripping" and sometimes can be sensitive to certain kinds of loads.
 
you mentioned a 1500W UPS. what happens if you power the PC ONLY on the UPS for a short while and load up the GPU? does it overload the UPS?
what about the PSU? is it maybe an older unit with bad ripple?
 
all other factors that I would check.

he probably does not trip the breaker because of the load, those can take a motor startup for few mili seconds prior to trip. North america, bare minimum is 15A on 120v , and can be overide a brief moment for equipment startup. so by code you should not load over 80% a breaker , but for heating element (since they are linear loads) . His PC need to have a constant load over 1800w for few seconds to trip. Assuming he's in n/a.
 
breaker trip also when the electrons are not flowing in sync with the a/c current. see this like a line up of people going forward/backward 60 time every second (60hz), if one person is the wrong way, the breaker trip.
 
imo a short would do something to the psu 1st.
 
and in 2 years, you get yourself a outlet meter , those are 20$ to local store and can be useful for many other stuff.
polarity reverse on the outlet can do funky stuff, even if its a/c, reversing the white/black wire can load the wrong side of a switch/ part of the equipment. once again there's a tool for that.
 

Min_Ahn
UPDATE
I've been playing CP2077 for 10+ hours now, no tripping with RTX3050.
Thought maybe it stablized itself so put RTX3080 back in the PC and it tripped the breaker 5 minutes after boot (with nothing running, just staring at the background).
Now I'm back to playing with RTX3050 till the replacement card arrives. 
Also, I noticed red LEDs on 3080's PCB board would come on for like 2 seconds and then the breaker trips. Every single time.

Initially I would wait to see if RMAing the 3080 fixes the issue. It is a good idea to disconnect the UPS when testing the stability of the system, though I suspect you already tried that. UPSes are known to have issues of this kind when overloaded.

If the breaker trips even after that, then you want to switch PSU for a unit that handles transient loads better.
This is easier said than done, since although there are quite a few ATX sized PSUs that are perfectly capable of doing so, there are only a couple of small form factor PSUs that fit the bill.

Specifically the only two I could currently find are the following:

- An SFX platform made by Channel Well, that is not yet used by anyone, though at least Corsair will use it in the near future.

- The Asus Loki SFX-L Platinum platform that has the new 12+4 GPU 12VHPWR connector and its models go from 750 to 1000 watts, but it has no reviews yet, so I do not yet know the components it has, although the transformer it uses seems to be a high frequency one that fits the bill.

My suggestion is to check stability on the 3080 they send you, without connecting the PC to a UPS, and only go for the Loki PSU Asus has as a last resort. It should work fine if the rest potential causes (overloaded UPS and defective GPU) are ruled out.

Cool GTX

cpt00
he probably does not trip the breaker because of the load, those can take a motor startup for few mili seconds prior to trip. North america, bare minimum is 15A on 120v , and can be overide a brief moment for equipment startup. so by code you should not load over 80% a breaker , but for heating element (since they are linear loads) . His PC need to have a constant load over 1800w for few seconds to trip. Assuming he's in n/a.
 
breaker trip also when the electrons are not flowing in sync with the a/c current. see this like a line up of people going forward/backward 60 time every second (60hz), if one person is the wrong way, the breaker trip.
 
imo a short would do something to the psu 1st.
 
and in 2 years, you get yourself a outlet meter , those are 20$ to local store and can be useful for many other stuff.
polarity reverse on the outlet can do funky stuff, even if its a/c, reversing the white/black wire can load the wrong side of a switch/ part of the equipment. once again there's a tool for that.
 

Good points
 
Taking the "short" concept to the next possibility ---> I wonder if OP is using the same --> Case, KB & Mouse this whole time?
 
If just one of those items has any issue, under the heaver load of the 3080 ......
 
Test this MB on cardboard/ non-conductive surface. 
 
Or even as a first step --> disconnect the case & remove All but the bare minimum:  CPU, cpu cooler, GPU, boot drive, (1) RAM

I have two sets of wireless keyboard and mouse and I switched cases about 3 times (Dan A4, Aklla, FormD).
And regarding the testing environment, what you suggested is exactly how I had the PC running before it tripped- CPU, Cooler, RAM, GPU, SSD, PSU.
 
 
 

Michapolys

Min_Ahn
UPDATE
I've been playing CP2077 for 10+ hours now, no tripping with RTX3050.
Thought maybe it stablized itself so put RTX3080 back in the PC and it tripped the breaker 5 minutes after boot (with nothing running, just staring at the background).
Now I'm back to playing with RTX3050 till the replacement card arrives. 
Also, I noticed red LEDs on 3080's PCB board would come on for like 2 seconds and then the breaker trips. Every single time.

Initially I would wait to see if RMAing the 3080 fixes the issue. It is a good idea to disconnect the UPS when testing the stability of the system, though I suspect you already tried that. UPSes are known to have issues of this kind when overloaded.

If the breaker trips even after that, then you want to switch PSU for a unit that handles transient loads better.
This is easier said than done, since although there are quite a few ATX sized PSUs that are perfectly capable of doing so, there are only a couple of small form factor PSUs that fit the bill.

Specifically the only two I could currently find are the following:

- An SFX platform made by Channel Well, that is not yet used by anyone, though at least Corsair will use it in the near future.

- The Asus Loki SFX-L Platinum platform that has the new 12+4 GPU 12VHPWR connector and its models go from 750 to 1000 watts, but it has no reviews yet, so I do not yet know the components it has, although the transformer it uses seems to be a high frequency one that fits the bill.

My suggestion is to check stability on the 3080 they send you, without connecting the PC to a UPS, and only go for the Loki PSU Asus has as a last resort. It should work fine if the rest potential causes (overloaded UPS and defective GPU) are ruled out.

I tested both with and without UPS in the circuit and nothing else, literally only the PC.


 
Let me be clear on this since many people are misunderstanding, here are the list of components I tested:

• • CPU: Intel i7-12700k / AMD R7 5800X / AMD R7 5600X
  • MOBO: Gigabyte Z690i / MSI B550i / Asrock B550i / Asus B550i
  • SSD: Samsung EVO 970 Plus 1TB / SK Hynix Gold 1TB
  • PSU: Cooler Master V850 / Corsair SF600 / Corsair SF750 / EVGA SuperNOVA850 / SilverStone SX1000
  • Cooler: Asetek 645LT / EVGA CLC280 / EK-AIO 210
  • Keyboard: Keychron K8 / Logitech G915TKL
  • Mouse: Razor Orochi V2 / Logitech G305
  • Case: Dan Cases A4 v2 / Aklla A4 v2 / FormD T1 v2
  • Monitor: Acer EI342CKR / Samsung CRG9 / 7" USB HDMI monitor from Aliexpress
  • UPS: APC UPS1500VA / CyberPower PR1500LCD
  • Circuit breaker: 15A 20A 25A 60A Nothing but the PC in the circuit (+ monitor)
  • Cables: I only used whatever came with the PSU. When I replaced the PSU, I replaced all cables including the 120v power cable as well.

All of the above tripped the breaker with RTX3080 inside of it. I recently tested many different component combinations with RTX3050 but I couldn't replicate the issue anymore.
The replacement card apparently is another 10G-P5-3897-KR so I will keep this post updated.

RMA cards are primarily previously owned. They may have cosmetic blemishes.

The bad situation EVGA is in, is that everyone wants EVGA to accept any blemishes when they send their care in, but expects EVGA to magically not have cards with blemishes when they leave EVGA.

The important question is whether or not the different card behaves differently. More data points.

the second picture "EVGA logo" , looks like possibly - "the protective film" was never removed - scratches might only be in that film
 
the last photo - with what looks to be a "stain of some sort" ... that is a possible red flag - depends what caused it

They might have sent you a card with newer revision PCB (rev 1.0 or 2.0) which should be generally safer to use.