Dabadger84

DZelmer
 10:00:29 AM PT for the block

Two thousand years latar... Hopefully they release more on Monday/Tuesday.  I really do think not that many shipped Friday because their allocation for shipping that day was full.  At least I hope so.  Otherwise, yikes, cuz only TWO people have reported queuing for it & being able to order. Me & PCLausen.  That's it.

This is not a very good starting sign!

Zvedza
Followed the same things done in this thread, and used a mix of the 10x10 and 20x20 due to availability on the backside of the card.
Vertical mounted with a 140mm Noctua 3000rpm fan at an angle at it, Mem junction temp highest it gets on stress test loops is 64*C
Max Hot spot temp is 66*C
PWR:1-3/MEM:1-3 Stay in the 40*C's.
(+125 on core, +1000 on mem)

Dont have a reference of before since i did this when installed the KP card, but on my 3090XC3 my junction temps were max of 80*C's with nothing on the backplate. 

It definitely makes a big difference, I have before temps and my Junction was getting up to 72+C gaming/stress testing, and VRMs run cooler after the heatsinks by a noticeable amount, considering they don't run that hot to begin with.  
Glad to hear it's working out for others as well.
 
I'll post updated numbers once the card is under the HC KP block, but at that point I have a feeling all of my temps are going to be Doggo Poggers level of low.

Since I managed to snag a HC block, I now need to figure out the rear VRAM water cooling. I am thinking MP5works block but since my card is vertically mounted I don't feel right about using the included bungee cords. I want to drill into the backplate, countersink the holes and bolt the mp5 block directly to it. Just like picture below (via reddit)
 

 
Now the debacle is that I don't know how EVGA will handle me drilling a couple of holes into the backplate. Technically it shouldn't do anything but I don't know about the policies. I am thinking of buying a spare backplate which I can drill away but then the kingpin has a weird design and there is nothing aftermarket. I can try to buy another plate for let's say a FTW3 and try to cut it to fit the PCB design. I wonder if EVGA sells parts for their cards i.e. backplate for the kingpin that I can buy and drill away.

pcgamerv2
Since I managed to snag a HC block, I now need to figure out the rear VRAM water cooling. I am thinking MP5works block but since my card is vertically mounted I don't feel right about using the included bungee cords. I want to drill into the backplate, countersink the holes and bolt the mp5 block directly to it. Just like picture below (via reddit)
 

 
Now the debacle is that I don't know how EVGA will handle me drilling a couple of holes into the backplate. Technically it shouldn't do anything but I don't know about the policies. I am thinking of buying a spare backplate which I can drill away but then the kingpin has a weird design and there is nothing aftermarket. I can try to buy another plate for let's say a FTW3 and try to cut it to fit the PCB design. I wonder if EVGA sells parts for their cards i.e. backplate for the kingpin that I can buy and drill away.

If you're not concerned with a little cleanup, you could always paste that block to the backplate, make sure you have thermal pads under the backplate to transfer the heat from the PCB components to the backplate.  That should work pretty well... but those tubes are so small I'd be worried about flow-obstruction personally.

crawdad420
How would you go about cooling the VRAM in a sandwich style case where the GPU has very little clearance between the backplate and the back of the motherboard?
 
What about if you had a big air cooler blocking the way in a traditional layout?

Even just doing heatsinks with no fan is better than having nothing.  The way the cards are by default, there's no "heat dissipation" on the backplate side of the card, just a "heat spreader" in the form of the backplate.  Attaching heatsinks to it, be that by thermal tape, sticky thermal pads, or paste, will still help.  Even low profile heatsinks with some airflow will help.

Clovis559
 
Buy a sheet of copper, Then use your back plate to drill holes into the copper sheet. Then screw the MP5 works to it. Warranty not in question.
Or use a memory Water block that's only $40-50.

I remember seeing your method of using the copper sheet and it is very tempting. Question questions: What kind of standoffs did you use to ensure the plate doesn't touch the PCB? I see some sort of sheet between your PCB and plate. Also how thick is your plate?
 

Dabadger84
If you're not concerned with a little cleanup, you could always paste that block to the backplate, make sure you have thermal pads under the backplate to transfer the heat from the PCB components to the backplate.  That should work pretty well... but those tubes are so small I'd be worried about flow-obstruction personally.

 
I read a great discussion on reddit where the designer of MP5 works block advised against using thermal paste. The reason being that backplates can either be flimsy and/or not perfectly flat like a machined surface of a waterblock/IHS/die. Paste wouldn't provide the perfect contact which could affect thermals. Using their provided 1mm thermal pad should provide a more even contact.
 
Keep in mind that the parallel version is meant to be used in parallel with your GPU waterblock due to it's thin tubing and restrictive flow. Having that design doesn't affect cooling otherwise this product won't exist. If someone uses that parallel version in series then it would bring the flow rate to a crawl. 
 
I reached out to EK and they have no plans on making a block or backplate (active or passive) for the Kingpin so that is out of the window now.

Just tweeted Jacob about that. Let's see if there are any plans for a revised backplate.
 
Edit:
 

 

pcgamerv2

Clovis559
 
Buy a sheet of copper, Then use your back plate to drill holes into the copper sheet. Then screw the MP5 works to it. Warranty not in question.
Or use a memory Water block that's only $40-50.

I remember seeing your method of using the copper sheet and it is very tempting. Question questions: What kind of standoffs did you use to ensure the plate doesn't touch the PCB? I see some sort of sheet between your PCB and plate. Also how thick is your plate?
 

Dabadger84
If you're not concerned with a little cleanup, you could always paste that block to the backplate, make sure you have thermal pads under the backplate to transfer the heat from the PCB components to the backplate.  That should work pretty well... but those tubes are so small I'd be worried about flow-obstruction personally.

 
I read a great discussion on reddit where the designer of MP5 works block advised against using thermal paste. The reason being that backplates can either be flimsy and/or not perfectly flat like a machined surface of a waterblock/IHS/die. Paste wouldn't provide the perfect contact which could affect thermals. Using their provided 1mm thermal pad should provide a more even contact.
 
Keep in mind that the parallel version is meant to be used in parallel with your GPU waterblock due to it's thin tubing and restrictive flow. Having that design doesn't affect cooling otherwise this product won't exist. If someone uses that parallel version in series then it would bring the flow rate to a crawl. 
 
I reached out to EK and they have no plans on making a block or backplate (active or passive) for the Kingpin so that is out of the window now.

I used these around the bolts, in between the copper sheet and the PCB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYR4DMP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In what scares me about the parallel version, it's not that it would take away from the GPU frontside, but the fact that 3/32" flow to the backside is incredibly low flow no matter where it's coming from.
 
Visually compared to a G1/4" barb fitting:

 
Mathmatically compared, the surface area circle of the 2.5mm ID: 0.03
The surface area of a G/14" (Roughly measuring the smallest area of my G1/4" fitting at 8.18mm): 0.33
0.03 to 0.33 is an insane difference in flow restriction.
 
This is where I'm thinking, just stick a fan on the back instead of going parallel. The serial version of MP5works own product is in a completely different ballpark then their parallel that shouldn't even exist. 
 
 
 

$164.71 USD is an absolute steal. Considering I paid $460 CAD (tax+shipping) for a single sided block via EVGA
 

Clovis559
 
I used these around the bolts, in between the copper sheet and the PCB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYR4DMP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In what scares me about the parallel version, it's not that it would take away from the GPU frontside, but the fact that 3/32" flow to the backside is incredibly low flow no matter where it's coming from.
 
Visually compared to a G1/4" barb fitting:

 
Mathmatically compared, the surface area circle of the 2.5mm ID: 0.03
The surface area of a G/14" (Roughly measuring the smallest area of my G1/4" fitting at 8.18mm): 0.33
0.03 to 0.33 is an insane difference in flow restriction.
 
This is where I'm thinking, just stick a fan on the back instead of going parallel. The serial version of MP5works own product is in a completely different ballpark then their parallel that shouldn't even exist. 
 

 
Thanks for the amazon link. Technically your explanation makes sense and I would love for the designer to chime in to explain more. My understanding is the block doesn't need super fast flow to get most performance out of it. It being parallel doesn't drop the overall loop pressure since the GPU block is not very restrictive and most of the liquid volume is passing through the biggest block.
 
 

DZelmer
Water Can absorb A lot of heat so a little water can go a long way especially when the back side should be under 100 watts of cooling needed. Its getting the heat to transfer to the water fast enough is normally what ends up being the limiting factor.

If it absorbs it and sits there, because the flow is so low, then it retains the heat when you need it to be removed, ending worse cooling performance. If you really think that's effective, you could spend money on it and shoot some numbers, but pretty sure my backplate is going to murder it.
 
2.5mm is a tiny miniscule hole:

What is this water cooling for ants?

I did order one but the series one My loop isn't set up for parallel. I didn't mean no flow. All thing considered for most liquid coolers the g1/4 fittings are over kill....But then again almost all of us tend to go way way overkill!  

Dabadger84
For those wondering just how much difference the HC block makes on memory temps, I'm going to be running PR Stress Test at the exact same settings I ran it on for the AIO, will post back with results, but here's a quick PR single run at +150/+1250 (because I can't run +165 anymore cuz the GPU tries to boost to 2235 & PR goes WHATCHUDOINCUZ) :
 

 
GPU: 43.9C
GPU2: 42.2C
GPU Hot Spot: 54.8C (little disappointed this isn't lower, but it was hitting mid 70s before)
Mem1: 32.8C
Mem2: 35.2C
Mem3: 35.0C
Memory Junction Temp: 54C
PWR1: 39.4C
PWR2: 34.3C
PWR3: 33.3C
PWR4: 32.5C
PWR5: 33.7C
 
Unfortunately there is at least one draw back: The HC block install means one backplate screw cannot be re-used, meaning one area of the backplate is looser than it should be - I think this is part of why the VRM temps barely dropped at all... then again it could be because they were already so low... or what I thought was enough putty turned out to be way too much or not enough. 
 
Edit: Oh and if you care about idles, literally everything is between 20-23C on the iCX Mem/VRM temps, GPU idles at 22-24C, Mem Junction at 30-32C, GPU hotspot around 32-34C.  So pretty much running at room temperature with my current ambient being in the 70.5-71F range.

That's Awesome you sure didn't waste any time couldn't wait to play with it could ya! 

Have to say I am disappointed in these results:
 

 
GPU: 45.4C
GPU2: 45.3C
GPU Hot Spot: 56.6C
Mem1: 36.6C
Mem2: 39.3C
Mem3: 38.7C
Memory Junction Temp: 58C
PWR1: 43.0C
PWR2: 38.1C
PWR3: 37.5C
PWR4: 38.3C
PWR5: 38.4C
 
I was just expecting... I dunno.  Not that it's not impressive, memory temps below 40C for a 36 minute stress test at +1000 is nice.  I guess either the Kingpin AIO does a better job than I gave it credit for, or this block is the beta tier like I assume it is compared to how low it can go with a full coverage block that's higher end.
 
Either way, overall I'd say it's a good purchase for those worried about memory temperatures etc, because that is a pretty gigantic difference, even with the backplate side cooling mods, this is (compared to running the AIO with the backplate pads/paste/heatsinks) :
 
GPU: -3.4C
GPU2: -5.6C
GPU Hot Spot wasn't available yet when I last ran the PR ST on the card with the AIO
Mem1: -9C
Mem2: -12.7C
Mem3: -9.6C
Mem Junction Temp: -10C
PWR1: -5.1C
PWR2: -2.1C
PWR3: -10.2C
PWR4: +4.1C --- So the two hotter VRMs are running cooler now, 
PWR5: +3.9C --- but the 2 formerly coolest ones are now hotter
 
I guess looking at those numbers I shouldn't be disappointed.  It is a 15-25% reduction in iCX Mem temps, and overall everything is running cooler... I do wonder if I had the flow the right way (The GUIDE SAYS INLET ON THE SIDE CLOSER TO THE NVLINK BRIDGE but the ARROWS on the block say otherwise) if it would run even cooler?  I'll never know cuz there's 0% chance I'm taking this loop apart for anything but cleaning.

talon951
What was your water temp at the end of that run?

 
O_o I don't have fancy things like coolant temp readouts - also I was afk for a good 20 minutes after it finished so whatever it had been at at the end would've only been recorded if it were in HWinfo.
 
I love the CPU radiator (top) being intake - it's resulting in my motherboard VRM temps being low as heck.  During that entire Port Royal Stress test my mobo VRM temp peaked at 27C :-D
It's also blowing air through the RAM sticks which is also keeping them cool, they peaked in the 34-36C range during that run.
 

 
If I could just get the fan that's currently on top of the PSU where I actually want it to be (blowing air over the bottom M.2 & in to the PCH fan area) more directly.  There's nothing for me to attach it to now... I will likely reinstall the Asus M.2 expansion card soon - didn't want that in the way during all this leak testing & what not since it's a long metal solid card and whatnot.

This seems to be on topic here.

NVIDIA, this is NOT ok! (Linus Tech Tips)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToTWaZtGOj8