slyraptor
Is it on your evga card or strix?

slyraptor
Still on stock bios your average clocks was close to 2100mhz while oc memory to 1000mhz. My own card can't even hold clocks on that same bios. It fluctuates like crazy. From 2100 down to 1800 even with power slider maxed out

slyraptor
Well its clear as day your card performs better than mine. Mine just cant even hold a stable 2100mhz no matter what I do. are you on water. Did you custom water cool the ftw 3 card?

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor
Well its clear as day your card performs better than mine. Mine just cant even hold a stable 2100mhz no matter what I do. are you on water. Did you custom water cool the ftw 3 card?

I don’t know about talon, but my system is custom water-cooled. The best I can do game-wise is +120/+1250. Benchmarking, +195/+1350 with an average of 2103 MHz for my highest TS run.

Just checking that you’re using the OC BIOS, have NVCP power set to max performance, and all that jazz. Right?

talon951

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor
Well its clear as day your card performs better than mine. Mine just cant even hold a stable 2100mhz no matter what I do. are you on water. Did you custom water cool the ftw 3 card?

I don’t know about talon, but my system is custom water-cooled. The best I can do game-wise is +120/+1250. Benchmarking, +195/+1350 with an average of 2103 MHz for my highest TS run.

Just checking that you’re using the OC BIOS, have NVCP power set to max performance, and all that jazz. Right?

That's pretty much what I've found also. +120 core seems to be the highest possible game stable OC. I've not had a crash using that.

I have the hybrid kit on my FTW3. It did get about 10C benefit from the A/C vent next to it though. :-)

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor
That is my point you are averaging over 2100mhz. Mine can't even hold that clock for more than 5 seconds before dropping to 1830mhz. Something is going on with the boost tables in the gpu bios. If I can lay my hands on a decent bios I would flash out this evga crap stock bios.

Mine’s using the stock BIOS, just for reference. It could just be silicone quality. Yours is achieving at least 1800 MHz, which is all that EVGA guarantees, but what’s your power draw at?

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor
That is my point you are averaging over 2100mhz. Mine can't even hold that clock for more than 5 seconds before dropping to 1830mhz. Something is going on with the boost tables in the gpu bios. If I can lay my hands on a decent bios I would flash out this evga crap stock bios.

Mine’s using the stock BIOS, just for reference. It could just be silicone quality. Yours is achieving at least 1800 MHz, which is all that EVGA guarantees, but what’s your power draw at?

That would be the worse silicone quality if it is really the silicone quality that is the issue because i have never encountered a single crash.  The funny thing is if i undervolted it to 0.965mv, it sits around 2025mhz locked never drops at all. so something is up with the card or its bios. i am using the hybrid bios. my power draw ranges from 330w to 443 watts depending on the workload. the things is if i do regular oc . it begins to drop massively to 1830mhz.

I mean, if you’re able to achieve 1800 MHz or more, and near 450W, that’s pretty much within EVGA spec. Just sounds like you lost the silicone lottery when it comes to overclocking unfortunately.

talon951

slyraptor

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor
That is my point you are averaging over 2100mhz. Mine can't even hold that clock for more than 5 seconds before dropping to 1830mhz. Something is going on with the boost tables in the gpu bios. If I can lay my hands on a decent bios I would flash out this evga crap stock bios.

Mine’s using the stock BIOS, just for reference. It could just be silicone quality. Yours is achieving at least 1800 MHz, which is all that EVGA guarantees, but what’s your power draw at?

That would be the worse silicone quality if it is really the silicone quality that is the issue because i have never encountered a single crash.  The funny thing is if i undervolted it to 0.965mv, it sits around 2025mhz locked never drops at all. so something is up with the card or its bios. i am using the hybrid bios. my power draw ranges from 330w to 443 watts depending on the workload. the things is if i do regular oc . it begins to drop massively to 1830mhz.

I mean, if you’re able to achieve 1800 MHz or more, and near 450W, that’s pretty much within EVGA spec. Just sounds like you lost the silicone lottery when it comes to overclocking unfortunately.

I beg to differ. i didn't pay over $1600 for a so called OC capable video card to accept this low end results. i would definitely return this garbage as soon as availability improves. either get a refund or a brand new replacement. if i wanted cheap garbage i would have spent way less getting an entry level cheap  zotac gpu. This is not acceptable and should not be condoned period. 

If it consistently drops like that during a 3dmark run, you might use GPUZ to record a log of the run and post it here. Maybe there's a clue in there as to why it drops so dramatically.

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor
That is my point you are averaging over 2100mhz. Mine can't even hold that clock for more than 5 seconds before dropping to 1830mhz. Something is going on with the boost tables in the gpu bios. If I can lay my hands on a decent bios I would flash out this evga crap stock bios.

Mine’s using the stock BIOS, just for reference. It could just be silicone quality. Yours is achieving at least 1800 MHz, which is all that EVGA guarantees, but what’s your power draw at?

That would be the worse silicone quality if it is really the silicone quality that is the issue because i have never encountered a single crash.  The funny thing is if i undervolted it to 0.965mv, it sits around 2025mhz locked never drops at all. so something is up with the card or its bios. i am using the hybrid bios. my power draw ranges from 330w to 443 watts depending on the workload. the things is if i do regular oc . it begins to drop massively to 1830mhz.

I mean, if you’re able to achieve 1800 MHz or more, and near 450W, that’s pretty much within EVGA spec. Just sounds like you lost the silicone lottery when it comes to overclocking unfortunately.

I beg to differ. i didn't pay over $1600 for a so called OC capable video card to accept this low end results. i would definitely return this garbage as soon as availability improves. either get a refund or a brand new replacement. if i wanted cheap garbage i would have spent way less getting an entry level cheap  zotac gpu. This is not acceptable and should not be condoned period. 

Then, return the card. EVGA may or may not replace it on account of it not overclocking to your liking. If it’s meeting spec, then it’s meeting spec. It’s a factory-OC’d card, by the way. Means it’s already OC’d and you just may not be able to squeeze more out of it due to silicone quality. That’s just how it goes. If it’s not up to your expectations, then, again, return the card. Not sure what else to tell you other than maybe recommending that you open a ticket if you think there’s an issue.

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor

ObscureEmpyre

slyraptor
That is my point you are averaging over 2100mhz. Mine can't even hold that clock for more than 5 seconds before dropping to 1830mhz. Something is going on with the boost tables in the gpu bios. If I can lay my hands on a decent bios I would flash out this evga crap stock bios.

Mine’s using the stock BIOS, just for reference. It could just be silicone quality. Yours is achieving at least 1800 MHz, which is all that EVGA guarantees, but what’s your power draw at?

That would be the worse silicone quality if it is really the silicone quality that is the issue because i have never encountered a single crash.  The funny thing is if i undervolted it to 0.965mv, it sits around 2025mhz locked never drops at all. so something is up with the card or its bios. i am using the hybrid bios. my power draw ranges from 330w to 443 watts depending on the workload. the things is if i do regular oc . it begins to drop massively to 1830mhz.

I mean, if you’re able to achieve 1800 MHz or more, and near 450W, that’s pretty much within EVGA spec. Just sounds like you lost the silicone lottery when it comes to overclocking unfortunately.

I beg to differ. i didn't pay over $1600 for a so called OC capable video card to accept this low end results. i would definitely return this garbage as soon as availability improves. either get a refund or a brand new replacement. if i wanted cheap garbage i would have spent way less getting an entry level cheap  zotac gpu. This is not acceptable and should not be condoned period. 

Then, return the card. EVGA may or may not replace it on account of it not overclocking to your liking. If it’s meeting spec, then it’s meeting spec. It’s a factory-OC’d card, by the way. Means it’s already OC’d and you just may not be able to squeeze more out of it due to silicone quality. That’s just how it goes. If it’s not up to your expectations, then, again, return the card. Not sure what else to tell you other than maybe recommending that you open a ticket if you think there’s an issue.

They have no  reason not to. I would return it when i am done with all my investigations about the card and  if availability improves. i have every right to do so if it doesn't meet my expectations. It is as simple as that. There is no argument there. Meanwhile i am collecting data and investigating while waiting for stock to improve. Finally like i said if i needed an 1800mhz  AIB card i could easily have saved hundreds of dollars in getting a cheap 2x 8 pin zotac. 

I understand your disappointment, and you do what you feel you need to. Just remember there is a return window if you want a refund.

KingEngineRevUp

slyraptor
Well its clear as day your card performs better than mine. Mine just cant even hold a stable 2100mhz no matter what I do. are you on water. Did you custom water cool the ftw 3 card?

I'm going to tell you, somewhere on this thread I did +195 and +1250 and got like a 21950 Timespy GPU score. But that's not what I'm stable at. 
 
I found that +120 MHz is stable for every game. Sure +165 for some games but screw that, I prefer complete stability. 
 
So that has me at 2055-2070 in games. I know you hear about all these people with crazy OCs, but what they're actually stable at is probably much lower. 
 
You're not really missing out on much. I hope that makes you feel better. 

KingEngineRevUp

slyraptor

KingEngineRevUp

slyraptor
Well its clear as day your card performs better than mine. Mine just cant even hold a stable 2100mhz no matter what I do. are you on water. Did you custom water cool the ftw 3 card?

I'm going to tell you, somewhere on this thread I did +195 and +1250 and got like a 21950 Timespy GPU score. But that's not what I'm stable at. 

I found that +120 MHz is stable for every game. Sure +165 for some games but screw that, I prefer complete stability. 

So that has me at 2055-2070 in games. I know you hear about all these people with crazy OCs, but what they're actually stable at is probably much lower. 

You're not really missing out on much. I hope that makes you feel better. 

Thank you for the vital information. What benchmark were you achieving the plus 195mhz to the core? And during said benchmark what were your average clocks. Here is what I noticed . In superposition, it acts weird by downclocking to 1800mhz. In timespy it is much better. It hovers around 2055 lowest clock to 2115 max which is much better than superposition. That is what I just noticed right now.

Are you on overclock.net? I think Talon and I are already talking to you on there right? 
 
Well if you can, please to a timespy run, log it with GPU-Z and let me see your logs. It will output a text file in the sensor tab. Not sure if I can help much but would like to take a look. 

slyraptor

KingEngineRevUp

slyraptor

I updated my post. There are two test I would like to take a look at. Run timespy with GPU-Z sensors, output your logs before the test so it records them in a text file. 
 
1. PL and Temperature maxed out, leave everything else stock
2. Now add your OC offset, don't do anything to memory
 
Don't do anything with the voltage cure, lock it, flatten it, etc. Make sure it's not locked if you previously locked it.