Hi I took my card apart and to my surprise I saw something that made me think it's really not normal. looked at the LR22 chip one of those is much higher than all the others and I think the waterblock hurts this job because of that.
 




" />




My GPU is mounted at 90 degree ingame with a memory Junction temperature at 96 and the hot spot temp at 105 degree see image from Hwinfo

 
 
spec :
caise : Lian li 011 Dynamic XL ROG
reservoir + pump : lian li 011D distro plate 
radiator 2X:  EK-coolStream PE 360
6X fans Bequiet at full speed
EK-Quantum Vector FTW3
CPU: 10850K 
GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 Ti FTW3 ULTRA GAMING (12G-P5-3967)

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I doubt that one single LR22 choke is causing a bad mount like you are experiencing. The thermal pad compresses when installed properly, and makes the contact even between all of the components.

The reason I say that one inductor is unlikely to be your issue is because the mounts for the core around the core itself would cause the PCB to flex and still make proper contact. One inductor will not cause you to have bad thermal transfer over the entire PCB, it would only cause bad temperatures in one location.

You can order softer thermal pads that will work over the inductors, as the inductors don’t require thermal pads like the other components require. That is why they come with thermal putty from the factory. There is always going to be minor variances in height of components.

Was your HWINFO64 reading with the waterblock installed or the air cooler?

If those are your temps on watercooling, you have something very wrong, especially utilizing two 360mm rads.

What is your CPU temp showing?

How long does it take for your temperatures to get that high? I am paying more attention to your maximum temps, because you are hitting the maximum allowable temps, which is wrong with watercooling. You have a very bad mount of your GPU core is getting to 90+ degrees and your VRam Junction is at 105+

The last photo I uploaded I didn't  restart the HW app. I just did a 1h session on the NewWorld game.
maybe i didn't tighten the waterblock screws enough? I should do a check tomorrow
 
 
 

 
 
The temperatures displayed are really crappy ... With my old GTX 1080 I never exceeded 60 degrees (but not the same power lol)
My cpu can go up to just a maximum of 86 with an average of 66
 
" />
 
 

OP....tighten those screws till you pretty much start to "squash" the plastic washers.....see a lot of posts on here (likely paranoid over the problems with failure after after installing the Block)....you should be able to tweak them down until there isnt much left to tighten......
 
As for screw length..EK provides a bunch of un-necessary sizes that arent needed (adds to the confusion for sure), other than using the little "Screw length visual card" supplied, you should also notice that the correct size is the largest number supplied..separate them and count them if your in doubt...theres enough spare plastic washers to avoid re-using them, use new ones...if you dont have enough extra 1mm pads to re-pad prior to re-installing, just re-pad the VRAM chips and leave the other ones on the Power Phase components, you should have enough for that.....
 
TIP: When ordering your EK Block, always a good idea to throw a bunch of new replacement thermal pads in your cart (there cheap), both for the Block pcb and the backplate ;)
 
For temps, I have 1*480 Rad (56mm thick), 1* 360 and 1*240, with Vector on 3080Ti and Velocity on 9900k, everything OC'd:
Max Temps CPU gaming with fairly decent load on CPU 60c to 63c (very heavy load)
Max Temp 3080Ti FTW3 playing any AAA Title 44c - 46c (46c being absolute Max 100% utilization)
GPU Hot Spot around 52c to 56c...same with Memory Junc
D5 Vario Pump at 2900 RPM (never more than 3200 RPM), pretty much set n forget (pump speed has very little effect and in some cases too high of speed can introduce "turbulence" at your pump outlet. Coolant temp will equalize throughout your loop, same thing when wondering "should i run coolant thru this rad or this block or this other rad first etc etc).
 
My Noctua Fans (no they arent pretty but pretty darn effective) at around 1250 RPM (I dont use software to control Rad Fans, but a manual slider for "specific radiators, dedicated Case intakes and dedicated exhaust) I have a number of reasons why I prefer manual Fan Controller over software.
 
Regardless of all the opinions on the topic, I prefer to set rad fans as intakes (thermal- dynamics 101), set to push the coolest air possible thru them (all the nooks n crannies in your case and dedicated exhaust fan will take care of expelling any heat)..
 
If you have the room for it in your case, its nice to have some dedicated intake fans (not on your rads) that can ensure decent fresh air moving over your mobo....
For fans n rads, look for decent low fpi (fins per inch) as thick as you can fit and load em up with good quality low RPM / High static pressure fans (make that the priority over looking "pretty", you should be able to compromise)....push / pull never yields enough gains to make it worthwhile when working with mulitiple radiators and lots of fans to begin with.
 
Let us know how you make out...if you want more tips feel free to pm me...I started WC'ing full on back in 2013/14 and enjoy helping others out as I was helped initially ;)
 
Cheers

kevinc313
That's worse than an air cooled 3080 Ti at the stock 400w, with good fan support.

It sure is! I had mine is a crappy case on air prior to installing the Block and had better temps.

Update 
 
I disassembled my cpu block and installed the right components
 
LGA-115X with optimal insert L1 and optimal J2     i have a better average 63Temp   4.9GHZ at 1.39vcore

 
1H on New World  CPU   we see the maximun a 87 but he hit very quickly and back down to 70
" />
 
 
RTX 3080TI  
I screwed well as it should. it was really not tight enough so I did the right thing.
the video card still remains hot but it is already much better than before. I run at 70 degree after 1 hour of play.
Yesterday I was still in the 84 degree and above
 
the spot temperature still high...   next time i will open the card to verify if the thermal pad is good.





 
 

I have an all in one kit. Reservoir plus pump : newegg . ca/lian-li-reservoir/p/2YM-002Y-00001

All my fans run to max speed 1300RPM and is to low for the cpu and gpu.
PUMP DDC 3.1 to 3000RPM


When I fill the pc with water I see that it fills up very well and quickly. but it is clearly not an MCP655 
when i touch the radiator i would say they are warm but colder than hot. just as the water temperature seems similar

I just watched a review on my radiator and I absolutely have to get a better push fan only. The radiator that I have a push pull is not effective according to the tests here  xtremerigs . net/2015/02/10/ek-pe-360-radiator-review/

have read in several places that the Cpu is really hot as bas as a furnace. I think i will have to adjust the oc manually at 4.8GHZ for 1.21Vcore its would make more sense for the temperature than 4.9Ghz at 1.395V.

We still advance is it that the HOT SPOT gpu is still too high and what is more precisely the hsg?




I have read in several places that the CPU is really hot as bad as a furnace. I think I will have to adjust the oc manually at 4.8GHZ for 1.21Vcore its would make more sense for the temperature than 4.9Ghz at 1.395Vcore

I have buy new fans  6X Noctua NF-F12 IPPC 3000 PWM  because my case doesn't breathe very well.
 
today i have made a quick OC.  4.9GHZ at 1.235Vcore is up to 1.26vcore   so tested with intel burn test and right now is much better i can do i better score maybe if a tricks more my oc.
 

 
i buy  EK Thermal PAD G 1,0mm     but i dont know what is the difference between Thermal PAD G or F in the manual of installation is a F version. 

perfect i will check this :)     i am waiting my thermal pad , Today I received my noctua fans they are monsters  I am able to feel the push of air just 42 inches away lol 

OP - Your loop is messed up.  It's obvious for three reasons:
 
1. CPU cooling is terrible.  It's really hard to mess up a cpu block or cooler mount for an experienced person, so unless your CPU block is defective, you aren't flowing enough coolant or the coolant is too warm. Or both.
 
2. You have a low GPU core to VRAM temp delta.  Like less than 10C.  Hot spot is about core +15C which is totally normal.  That means the mount is pretty normal, maybe biased a bit to the vram but under a normal gaming load those deltas are totally fine.  If you were mining ETH and had those deltas, you would have insufficient chip pressure.
 
3. You haven't posted any loop coolant temps or flow rates, which means you don't have sensors to check them.
 
I'd say to take some soft tubing/hose and test both the CPU block and GPU block under load with building water at an ample flow rate, like this vid:
 
https://youtu.be/qO0-47to8-E
 
Unless you have a separate known good pump-res and sensors to use.