Hey guys, waiting for the new Ryzen stuff to drop and since it's going to be a couple months longer than I expected now before I decide one way or the other (9700K vs 3nnnx) on what platform I'm going with for my new system, I'm thinking of upgrading my GTX1070 now while I wait and have money (though it might push the new build out yet another month).  My 1070 is only just over a year old (bought over new years last year when my 780 died, on new years weekend).  I had planned to use it for a while in the new build, but maybe I should take advantage and do it anyway?  I guess I could sell off the 1070, but I was going to keep the old system as a server or something and just use the 4790K's integrated graphics when needed.  With the 1070 I could turn it into a folding rig as well I guess or something though.  
 
Anyway, so I'm just wondering though is it going to be ridiculous overkill running the 2080 on the 4790K (overclocked to 4.4 on all cores)?  It should only be for 2-4 months, but still just wondering (and things happen).  Gaming resolution is 1440 and games are Division, WoW which can take a big FPS hit in high particle/effect group settings (unsure if it's a CPU issue though for WoW), and various other semi-modern games released within the last couple years.  My HX850 PSU should be able to handle it.  My only other decision since I eventually will be watercooled is whether to get the FTW3 hydrocopper or get something with a reference PCB like the XC cards and get a 3rd party block once I build the new system.  If I got the hydrocopper I'd have to get all the water stuff as well to even be able to use it.

i7-4790K is OK for RTX2080.
Maybe is max 10% slower than newest processors. 
RTX2080 is similar to GTX1080Ti and you could expect performance similar to GTX1080Ti.

wedgoku
 
 
Search for my forum post "EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC HYBRID GAMING, 11G-P4-2384-KR (on old i7 4790k) My impression" on the EVGA forums, i'm still running a 4790k @ 4.4ghz all cores & a RTX 2080ti XC Gaming Hybrid @ 2560x1080 21:9 ultrawide monitor, all games play smooth with no stuttering, playing SOTR,Metro:Exodus, BF:V,Anthem, RTX on with max settings. I say you will be fine with a RTX 2080 especially @ 2560x1440(1440P)
 
1."Is it overkill?": I would say yes but then again i'm running a RTX 2080 ti on a 4790k, I plan to upgrade whole system later like you
 
2."WoW which can take a big FPS hit": Wow & most online MMO are running older game engines that don't utilize hardware as well like "Unreal 3 engine " most of those MMO DON'T use multi core cpus & tend to use more single thread performance, meaning if you upgrade to a i7 9700k & overclock it you will get better performance.(I play Blade & soul & Tera both MMO games use the older Unreal 3 engine)
 
3. "My HX850 PSU should be able to handle it"  your Corsair HX 850 has 2x 8-pin PCI express connectors you will be fine, I use a Corsair HX1000w
 
My suggestion is add up the price of all the waterblocks/watercooling components if the price to watercool a RTX 2080 is close to buying a RTX 2080ti I would just purchase a stock air cooled RTX 2080ti instead.

Thanks for the info.  As far as the watercooling is concerned, I'm going water no matter what for the CPU in the new build.  If I did it on the current one it would probably benefit my 4790K pretty good especially since the VRM section on my mobo actually has a hybrid air/water heatsink from the factory.  So water blocks for the 2080's are around 140-180.  I think a Ti would be out of the price range unless I went with the basic black edition.  The price difference between a hydrocopper 2080 and 2080Ti is like $500 which is nearly the cost of the mobo and CPU for the new build.

ProDigit
So, what are you asking then?
Many people report great 4k gaming from RTX cards!
The 2060 gets 1M PPD, the 2080 gets 1,4M PPD.
For gaming, you can reduce the RT effect by a bit, just to correct minimum frame rates, which might be needed on a 2060, but shouldn't on a 2080.
You will hardly notice the difference image quality wise, even on an RTX2060.
 
The 2060 is 1080p future proof, and will run most 4k games with minor quality settings reduced for the next 3-5 years!
The 2080 is 4k future proof! You're pretty sure to be able to play nearly all games for the next 3-5 years or so at full quality settings! 
If you ever plan on running multi-monitors, perhaps it's better to go with a 2080ti for full quality gaming experience, but a 2080 might still get you decent frame rates even on 3 monitors!
 
I would have advised against an RTX 2070, because they only got 1,1M PPD, and the 2x price of a 2060 wasn't justified, but I see lately the prices on 2070s has been dropping; and 2080s now cost what 2070 costed in the beginning.
 
I'd say a 2080 is a good match for that CPU. There's a chance that the 2080 ti would work very good as well, as you have 4 cores, 8 threads.
For folding, you only need a 3Ghz dual core to run 1 card, or quad core to run up to 3 cards. So your system could (in theory) run 6 GPUs.
 
One thing you can still do, is install the 2080 (ti or non-ti) AND the 1070, and enable cuda on these cards.
Some games, that support cuda, will make benefit of the parallel computations of the added second GPU.

I guess I'm trying to convince myself that I should upgrade a card I've only had for a year.  I had not planned to buy the GTX 1070 in the first place though and was going to hold onto the 780 until the 2xxx cards were out but the 780 dying on me kinda threw that out the window. 
 
As far as monitors right now I plan to continue single monitor gaming on the 144Hz 2560x1440 gsync monitor I have but I also run a 1080 in dual monitor setup so I can have other stuff up (streaming apps etc.) while gaming.  I'm assuming your multi-monitor comment was more about using multiple monitors for actual gaming though? (spreading the game across multiple screens i.e. higher resolution).  Assuming I end up with a new Ryzen and assuming the CPU config charts that were "leaked" are in any way accurate, I'd probably go after the 12/24 thread part. 
 
For the folding it would only be done like on the old system and I'd leave the 1070 in the old system when everything is done being build for the new one.  I'm just as likely to try to sell of the 1070 though unless my wife all of a sudden decides she wants to do some gaming then the old system would become hers in the end.

The black had a low power limit. The higher models have a higher power limit. You basically take care of the temp limit with water cooling but then you'll hit the power limit. That's the difference in the ftw3 besides the huge air cooler.. the kingpin is listed at the same power 360watt power limit but also a 520watt limit.. not sure about that as I see around a 400watt when hitting it, but then one can get a 0 power limit bios.

When you hit the power limit it will force the card to go down in clock to lower the power draw.

Ignorance is bliss really.. it's TRUE.

You should not hit the power limit though in games at 1440 though.. this will happen in benchmarks.

My advise is the ftw3.. the card came alive after installing the water block. Get that card below 40c is where she overclocks best.

flyinion
I thought the FTW model would be a higher clock but direct from the EVGA listings for these two cards the boost clock on the FTW3 makes no sense and both are $1299 cards.  Why is an FTW card slower?  Even the XC Black is listed with a faster boost and is $150 cheaper.  
 
EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 GAMING, 11G-P4-2483-KR, 11GB GDDR6, iCX2 Technology, RGB LED, Metal Backplate

• 1545MHz Boost Clock

 
EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC2 ULTRA GAMING, 11G-P4-2387-KR, 11GB GDDR6, iCX2 Technology, RGB LED, Metal Backplate

• 1650MHz Boost Clock

EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 GAMING, 11G-P4-2483-KR, 11GB GDDR6, iCX2 Technology, RGB LED, Metal Backplate
 
EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 ULTRA GAMING, 11G-P4-2487-KR, 11GB GDDR6, iCX2 Technology, RGB LED, Metal Backplate
 
The difference between the two is the silicon on the SKU 2487 (higher priced) has a better silicon on advertised speeds while both still get the same beefed up VRM section.

2080 with 4790k oc?   sure, you will be fine!
i am a 4790k stock with TitanXP.    
But you may want to wait; because August is in 3 months and Nvidia will surely have 2019 GPUs ready to debut!     = )

I doubt it.. only way nvidia would rush is if AMD caught up and surpassed them in speed. Ain't happening.

GTXJackBauer
 
 
It's usually 2 years from release dates.  Nothing is coming up afaik and wouldn't make sense for Nvidia since they've been coming out with the lower tiers the last few months.
 
I believe it's safe to say you're good for at least 12-18 months before another GPU shows it's face. 

Phew that's good to know.  I was a little worried for a second there.  Hmm.  So I have two options that I could do right now without waiting for more money.  
 
Option 1
2080 FTW3 Ultra Hydro Copper + custom loop parts to put the current CPU/VRM on water along with it.  The CPU block would be usable on the new system later on just need a mounting adapter if I end up going AM4.
 
Option 2
2080 Ti probably one of the XC flavors (FTW3 Ultra is out of the price range by about $100) and then put it on water later when I do the rest of the parts for the new system.
 
I'd rather avoid the hybrid cards from either line just because it would be pointless since I'll be doing a custom loop at some point for my CPU.  It's just do I do it now or on the new system.
 
 

GTXJackBauer
I personally went with a 2080 Ti for that extra horsepower for high end gaming on 1440p 144hz.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking I should do.  Just need to figure out which one now then.  I can always put it on water later.  Can I assume the XC cards have a better VRM section than the 999 black edition?  Or are the XC cards just overclocked versions all on the same exact PCB and I should maybe just grab the black edition and hope I get a decent chip? Perhaps the better idea budget-wise is the non-Ultra FTW3 if the XC and lower all have the same VRM/etc.?

AHowes
Their is a real huge nice thread on here about the black cards if you really want to get an idea about all the crying about the power limit from fellow black card owners begging for some kind of miracle bios cure but then find out their is no cure cause of the cheap chips (non A chips? or whatever) they got.

Ahh ok, so avoid that one then.  So the XC cards don't have that issue then is what I'm hearing?  I also may have found a co-worker who wants my 1070 so that could take a nice bit of the new GPU price sting away :)
 
EDIT:
Found a few threads about it and I see now.  So yeah I think I'm definitely going to be looking at least at the base XC card no matter whether I go 2080 or Ti version.  

AHowes
More fans and bigger heatsink the cooler and quieter.

Ah ok, of course that won't matter once a waterblock goes on it though 

flyinion

GTXJackBauer
I personally went with a 2080 Ti for that extra horsepower for high end gaming on 1440p 144hz.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking I should do.  Just need to figure out which one now then.  I can always put it on water later.  Can I assume the XC cards have a better VRM section than the 999 black edition?  Or are the XC cards just overclocked versions all on the same exact PCB and I should maybe just grab the black edition and hope I get a decent chip? Perhaps the better idea budget-wise is the non-Ultra FTW3 if the XC and lower all have the same VRM/etc.?

All the PCBs are the same from Black and all the XCs except the FTW3s and Kingpins.  Those are larger PCBs and beefed up VRMs (Power).  The difference is OC/Power limit.  The Black has the non 'A' Chips while the XC and up have the Nvidia labeled 'A' chip meaning it can handle clocks better in the higher ups (2K+) but don't forget, nothing is a guarantee.  Only the advertised boost speed is what you're paying and further then that is a gamble.  The black has a 112% power limit while the XC is 130% I THINK and the FTW3s/Kingpin are higher than that. 

I went with the 2080Ti Black Edition because of cost and waterblock (On sale right now + Associate code equals more savings on your total purchases.)  I added to it so it came out around $1200.  It auto clocks around 1875hz while gaming.  Sure I can get close to 2000Mhz but I truly don't care for gaming that is.  For benching, sure you're limited by the 112% power limit but I'm not really into benching that much but do it from time to time for kicks.  It ends up on the consumer if they feel $150-$400+ to have 100-200Mhz+ on the GPU.

My Black purrs @ 40c-42c (water) on BF5 on ultra settings and averages 90-120FPS.  Some other games like Rocket League I'm capped at 144 FPS.  Mind you this is on a 27" Dell 1440p 144hz Gsync screen.

Thanks guys. I'm probably going to see about doing the basic XC card plus a water block for use at some point while they're on sale now. I have one question. I'm interested in getting an ICX card for the temp sensors. All of them say ICX2 in the detailed specs. But only the XC ultra 2 and FTW models list it on the name and main product page. So do all the cards have it or are the product pages not correct?

flyinion

wedgoku
 
 
Search for my forum post "EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC HYBRID GAMING, 11G-P4-2384-KR (on old i7 4790k) My impression" on the EVGA forums, i'm still running a 4790k @ 4.4ghz all cores & a RTX 2080ti XC Gaming Hybrid @ 2560x1080 21:9 ultrawide monitor, all games play smooth with no stuttering, playing SOTR,Metro:Exodus, BF:V,Anthem, RTX on with max settings. I say you will be fine with a RTX 2080 especially @ 2560x1440(1440P)
 
1."Is it overkill?": I would say yes but then again i'm running a RTX 2080 ti on a 4790k, I plan to upgrade whole system later like you
 
2."WoW which can take a big FPS hit": Wow & most online MMO are running older game engines that don't utilize hardware as well like "Unreal 3 engine " most of those MMO DON'T use multi core cpus & tend to use more single thread performance, meaning if you upgrade to a i7 9700k & overclock it you will get better performance.(I play Blade & soul & Tera both MMO games use the older Unreal 3 engine)
 
3. "My HX850 PSU should be able to handle it"  your Corsair HX 850 has 2x 8-pin PCI express connectors you will be fine, I use a Corsair HX1000w
 
My suggestion is add up the price of all the waterblocks/watercooling components if the price to watercool a RTX 2080 is close to buying a RTX 2080ti I would just purchase a stock air cooled RTX 2080ti instead.

Thanks for the info.  As far as the watercooling is concerned, I'm going water no matter what for the CPU in the new build.  If I did it on the current one it would probably benefit my 4790K pretty good especially since the VRM section on my mobo actually has a hybrid air/water heatsink from the factory.  So water blocks for the 2080's are around 140-180.  I think a Ti would be out of the price range unless I went with the basic black edition.  The price difference between a hydrocopper 2080 and 2080Ti is like $500 which is nearly the cost of the mobo and CPU for the new build.

RTX 2080 Hydro Copper is great choice.
I think it's wrong to older hardware dictate you model of new one.
People should buy new GPU even if he work on 20% less performance on older platform.
Same is with SSD/HDD, don't buy SATA II because your motherboard not support SATA III.
Or USB... if you like RTX2080 or RTX2080Ti and your CPU is older better work 20% slower than to stay with slower GPU with new processors.
 
I believe you should buy Hydro Copper or model compatible with Watercool.de Heatkiller waterblocks.
Experienced users mostly recommend Watercool Heatkiller as best quality. Now they offer few versions and 3 completely different models. It's hard to decide because all of them are beautiful and backplate is cool. Performance PC I think have them.
I will use their blocks for my next GPU. Without any delay with new motherboard arrive CPU Block Heatkiller IV Pro Black Copper and with GPU Heatkiller for graphic. Now I have fabric waterblock. This is advice worth of gold.
 
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserk%C3%BChler/GPU_Kuehler/%22Geforce%20RTX%202080%22