thanks for great info, this has helped me out a lot. Also I was just planning on using steamed distilled water and the silver coil my loop. Would i need anything else add to the fluid.

thanks man
 

From your guide:

...
Reservoir ( always higher then the pump)
...
Pump(always below the res)
...

 
I understand what you are getting at, but why do you make those statements?  The reservoir does not necessarily need to be higher than the pump and will function just fine either way.
 
Once you get the pump primed, it doesn't matter what height the reservoir is in relation to the pump.  To get the pump primed initially, you can tilt the case in whatever direction necessary to get the reservoir above the pump.  Once the system is primed and the inlet and outlet hoses in the reservoir are submerged in fluid, the reservoir could be the lowest point in the loop and you could still remove the cap and add fluid without any fluid coming out the top of the reservoir.  This is due to the effect of "hydrolock" in the closed loop.
 
Some folks argue that the reservoir should be higher than the pump to provide fluid inlet pressure to the pump.  This logic is flawed.  Since the system is a closed loop, pump workload will remain the same regardless of where the reservoir is placed.  This is because if the reservoir is placed high, any advantage of increasing fluid pressure to the pump inlet will be lost on the other side of the loop where the pump is having to work harder to pump the fluid back up into the reservoir.
 
Just some things to think about when making generalized statements.

DarkOwnage_ state in the guide that Koolance is best for Nvidia GPU's and EK for ATI though.

OMG!  Really? 
 
I think his guide was aimed at being factual.  No need to add more generalized statements of no merit.

Ty_ger07, I thought the issue with the EK blocks being eaten was from Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate additives not Silver Coils?  However, the EK thing still sounded like a batch problem, because you didn't see it happen all over before or after.  Silver may have been the catalyst, but IMHO, something else was amiss there as well.
You are correct about mixing metals, however you do tend to see it much less when aluminum is NOT involved.
What do you use for anti microbial/bactirial and for corrosion personally?

ty_ger07

Do not mix Aluminum and copper this will cause galvanic corrosion. You can have copper, brass, silver, and stainless steel in the same loop 

This is not factual.  Mixing ANY metals in a loop will cause disimilar metal electrolytic galvanic corrosion since they are all of different nobility.

Specifically, this is the portion which is not factual: "You can have copper, brass, silver, and stainless steel in the same loop"

The metals you listed have greater nobility so the problem is reduced, but still the loop will corrode over time by using those metals in combination with one another in a fluid loop.

Coolant- Distilled water is all you need. Pt nuke as well to prevent growth in your loop or silver coil

Remember all those EK blocks with the plating being eaten off?  That was caused by people using silver kill coils.  Silver kill coils will cause corrosion.

I don't use them.   I avoided them for this reason long before they made it into the headlines.

Shooty workman ship that is why you have the ek issue. Even MNPCtech made a comment about it as well saying it was poorly made on my youtube channel

DarkOwnage_

ty_ger07

DarkOwnage_ state in the guide that Koolance is best for Nvidia GPU's and EK for ATI though.

OMG!  Really? 

I think his guide was aimed at being factual.  No need to add more generalized statements of no merit.

If that is true than he should remove any parts in the guide stating which brands he recommends for which parts. Why state if it has no merit right? The truth is, since this is a noob guide so the people reading this guide have little to no knowledge about watercooling then I feel it would be good information to know which brands are considered the top amongst experienced loopers.

All Suggestions are up to date. Ive been water cooling since 2009. Ive also helped people with there wc setups I have had no complaints what so ever when they put together their loop with the parts I suggested

I use the EK blocks which are supposedly affected. Propylene glycol + distilled water is all that is necessary. This will reduce corrosion and microbial growth. Using either PT Nuke or Silver Kill Coils are asking for trouble.

ty_ger07

I use the EK blocks which are supposedly affected. Propylene glycol + distilled water is all that is necessary. This will reduce corrosion and microbial growth. Using either PT Nuke or Silver Kill Coils are asking for trouble.

Ive used pt nuke since 2009 and I have had no issue at all even with the Ek water blocks for the 5970 and 5870(copper with acetal). I never used a Ek Nickel plated product.
The only issue I had so for as water cooling is that I used feser one red uv coolant. That was the biggest mistake it staind my blocks clogged my cpu, rad, tubing and etc. When I spent about a day cleaning everything I switched over to pt nuke and distilled water.
Since then the only issue I had was that I had to clean off the oxidation(which is normal) on my heakiller pure copper 3.0 when I had it.

ty_ger07

Well, the claim is that either PT Nuke and/or Silver Kill Coil caused the nickel plating to come off the EK blocks, right? I have three of the affected EK nickel plated blocks and have not had issues and I dont use PT Nuke or Silver Kill Coil. That is all I was saying.

You do use PT Nuke but not with one of the affected blocks.

They are trying to blame the cosumer thats why.When it was there poor nickel plated product at the time.  
The koolance nickel blocks I have are not flaking at all. I think that says something

ty_ger07

What did the independent laboratory testing conclude? Last report I heard, they determined that it was caused by additives such as PT Nuke and/or Silver Kill Coils. Sure it is possible that plating deficiencies caused the plating to be more sensitive to these negative additives, but the laboratory testing concluded that the additives themselves were the underlying cause.

We should be able to use pt nuke or silver coil with out having any problem using nickel plated blocks period.
This is why EK has the new EN nickel plating process
Lab testing independently not by EK.
http://www.realredraider....showthread.php?t=47917
 qualifications done by tester
Bachelor of Science:

• Chemistry
• Physics
• Electrical Engineering
• Applied Mathematics

PhD Docorate:

• Nuclear Physics

ty_ger07

Your testing information there is from someone in the industry who is comparing ek blocks to hus own blocks. He says ek's blocks are garbage and his blocks are awesome. You think he might be a bit biased? Why dont you link to the independent lab who oficially tested ek's blocks?

The tester is not comparing his own blocks.. DO you think Ek will hire someone who will talk bad about there products.
 
Also Ek had there testing in house so do you think there results are going to be biased.
Users should be able to use pt nuke or solver coil with nickel plated products and not have to worry about anything.

khedge

I like the side window i added to my case it helps cool my cards better.

Hatchetrunner, i was looking at the lamptron fc touch and fc5v2. I like clean look of it but, i here the auto function doesn't work well. Also someone said there was some gaps between the front benzel on there 800d. What fan controller do you use?

I personally do not use any fan controllers. I use 1850rpm gentle typhoons. Rheobus fan controller are great, They just dont have the screens to show the rpm and etc.
 
 My friend has the 800d not me. I personally didn't see any gaps. He uses a nzxt fan controller
This is what his build looks like. I helped him with it showed him how to do the 240mm rad at the bottom to.
link
http://i1213.photobucket....G0054.jpg?t=1317966309
with side window and fans

khedge

Here is my side panel installed. I am going to change those cougar fans out for the black ones. I am going for a all blacked out look for my rig. Water cooling is coming soon and I will do the rad mod for the 240 in the bottom.

Nice The 240mm rad at the bottom mod should take about 10-20 mins.
here are some rad templates for ya hope this helps
http://www.mnpctech.com/Fan_Grill_Templates.html

khedge

hatchetrunner

khedge

Here is my side panel installed. I am going to change those cougar fans out for the black ones. I am going for a all blacked out look for my rig. Water cooling is coming soon and I will do the rad mod for the 240 in the bottom.

Nice The 240mm rad at the bottom mod should take about 10-20 mins.
here are some rad templates for ya hope this helps
http://www.mnpctech.com/Fan_Grill_Templates.html

sweet thanks. Would on of those magnetic filter for a quad 120 be enough to cover the intake for the PSU and rad after the mount?

To be honest I have no clue. I would just take measurements and see if it matches the measurements of the filter.