After getting enough of my system built to test functionality of the two RTX2080ti FTW3 Ultra Hybrid cards (model 11G-P4-2484-KR)
and get some baseline temperature readings under load, I pulled them out and installed two Hydro Copper waterblocks (model 400-HC-1489-B1). Just wanted to toss out my notes and such for anyone else who happens to do this.
The first, most obvious thing I noticed is that the installation instructions refer only to the regular three-fan cards and don't mention the hybrid cooler at all. That model of card isn't even listed in the compatibility section at all, even though it is listed on the website. It's easy enough to figure out if you're the kind of person who is going to rip into a $1500 GPU anyway, but you'd kind of expect better for a $1700 cash layout for card and cooler. The upside is that there are fewer screws to remove since the slot cover isn't as large, and the black washers for the GPU bracket are pre-installed.
When the instructions refer to #4 screws, they aren't referring to #4 screws but to the set of screws labeled '4' in the parts diagram.
Even though my two cards have serial numbers that differ by only 240, the backplate screws differ between them. One set of screws takes a PH1 driver, the other set takes a PH0 driver. The hybrid cooler heatsinks are slightly different, too, and in one the pump power cable is taped to the heatsink while in the other it is held in place by two rubber blocks. The design with the tape and PH0 screws is the older one (going by the serial numbers).
The little sticker covering one of the backplate screws near the NVLink connector is annoying. At least it doesn't say "warranty void if removed" (which is illegal in many places anyway) but it's not mentioned in the instructions and seems superfluous on something which you are expected to remove anyway.
When removing the RGB LED connector, it is quite easy for the socket body to come off of the board and stick to the connector, leaving just the pins. If this happens, be sure to replace it carefully and in the correct orientation, since nothing else keeps you from putting the connector in backwards and it isn't difficult to bend the pins.
The instructions never tell you to put the slot cover back on. Some pictures show the cover in place, some don't. Fortunately it doesn't really matter when you do this, but you can reinstall it as soon as you have removed the plastic shroud that covers the pump/fan/heatsink setup.
The application of heatsink compound on the pump block is interesting. Basically they make contact not just with the GPU but the bracket around it. Since that bracket cools the ram and is screwed to the heatsink that cools one block of VRMs, I guess it makes sense but it sort of looks like overload when you remove it.
The LED cables on my water blocks were extremely short. Shorter than is shown in the instructions (which is pretty short). This made putting things together a bit more challenging. You have to prop the card up at just the right angle on the cooler and even then there is barely enough cable.
I think that's about it. I'm still waiting on other parts to finish the plumbing so I don't know how well it will perform. Does anyone have any thoughts on thermal pads in use on the blocks? I'm not familiar with thermal pad performance so I don't know if it would ever be worthwhile to replace what EVGA provided.