AWK16
I'm not much into acrylic design I found it to be very fragile and easy to damage material. I used to like EVGA Hydro Coppers (Swiftech manufacturing) It was solid block. Anyways If I'm not wrong and if you like Heatkiller, they make outstanding blocks with superior nickel plating and great design If I'm not wrong  they are compatible with that card....just a thought :)
 

j_kansas
Hi,
 
I'd like to get some community input on the Hydro Copper line of blocks, specifically those designed for the RTXs.  
 
I am looking at watercooling a 2080 XC BLACK EDITION GAMING (08G-P4-2082-KR; list of $750).  I am investigating the Hydro Copper Waterblock for 2080s (400-HC-1189-B1; list of $180).  
 
The Hydro Copper line seems high in cost and past reviews for the Hydros haven't been the best. Alternatively I can purchase from EKWB an EK-Vector series for $140-160, or a Classic line block for $120.  EKWB doesn't list any of the Black series on the compatibility charts, but since the XC gaming is, I assume it will be kosher. So I'm looking at a GPU+Block purchase of $870 - $930 depending on who I go with.
 
My question is, at this point why shouldn't I just purchase a 2080 FTX3 Ultra Hydro Copper (08G-P4-2289-KR; list of $1,000?)  With a pre-installed waterblock, I would save myself a bit of time and possible screw ups.  I also assume (hope?) that the GPU+Block comes warrantied against leaks, as it was installed by EVGA?  Finally, I'd get a card with a bit higher boost clock out of the box (though I'm pretty sure I could OC any of the XC line to that spec).
 
The downsides I can see are cost (Up to $130 for the labor I'm no longer doing), possibly performance (if I don't like the Hydro Copper design/cooling performance?), and I am getting a custom PCB (Now I'm stuck with EVGA if I ever want to change that block or screwed if EVGA stops making blocks etc).
 
Thoughts?  WWYD?

Cool GTX
EVGA sells an Extended Warranty of 5 yr or 10 yr
 
EVGA warranty allows the use to change coolers
 
For RMA - if you ever have an issue under warranty - You Must install the factory stock cooler  (advantage factory hydro cooper)
 
My experience with EK has always been good
 
If your card is Not listed as compatible by EKWB, reach out to their CS & Confirm fitment
 
I have not found a review that compares the performance of these different brand water blocks with RTX cards
 

j_kansas
Hey, thanks for the info on the warranty options - I did not know that and you're right on making any RMAs much easier.
 
I also can't find any good reviews on the performance of these different water blocks on RTX, which is a bummer when trying to make a decision.  Do you have any personal experience with the Hydro Copper line? I'm still on the fence if buying a pre-installed block is a huge boon.
 

j_kansas
All,
 
Thank you.  Your posts are greatly appreciated, especially those of you reassuring on the Hydro Coppers and length of warranty.
 
You've given me a lot to think about.  I didn't think about the pre-assembled Hydro Copper block being hard to *disassemble*; I had planned to flush once a year.  I would go with the 08G-P4-2289-KR to give me less things to worry about, but if I'm kicking the can down the road maybe it's not so useful.  I also need to remember that I lose options if I never buy a card with an air cooler.
 
@GTXJackBauer - This *is* my first time watercooling, but I'm pretty anal and I have pages of documents on dos/donts, so I think if I go slow I won't completely screw the pooch.  I'm pretty set on an EVGA card; hence why I'm here posting.  For the rest of the CPU, pumps, rads etc I'm 100% sure I'm going with EKWB, so maybe I just need to get a bit more confident and disassemble an XC Black or XC Gaming.  I will note that I wasn't planning on going top of the line and the "Classic Series" lineup (And even the Fluid Gaming TBH, if they ever come out with a block for RTX) does interest me.  Its SPC pump, however, might not provide the best flow for a Hydro Copper...  I hesitate because I don't want to say I'm delegating $X for watercooling, and then end up spending 3X on my first build.
 
@AWK16 - thanks for the shout out on the Heatkiller models; I hadn't heard of them.  And thanks for the heads up on Plexi issues - it was on my mind vs Acetal.

AWK16
 
I totally agree to stay with clear liquids, they won't stain or clog and depending how and which product  you use, you can  go 1-4 years between liquid changes.
 
Aquacomputer has good stuff e.g. "double protect" but also Mayhems new Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ that came out about 2.5 years ago is a superior product, can be used with all mixed metals e.g. aluminum, copper, stainless and any type of tubing.
 
This is the best part...If you use it with only Distilled water you can run this mixture up to 4 years between liquid changes. Initially you add  4 drops of each per 1L of DI and after that every 3 months depending on how much liquid your loop(s) holds, if it holds 1L or less you add single drop of each product, if it holds 1.5L or more you  add 2 drops of each and you can go on up to 4 years.
 
Why I'm saying  between 2-4 years? if you use only distilled, you can go as long as 4 years..yes..this stuff it's amazing, if you use distilled with Mayhems color dyes you should change every 12-24 months MAX.
 
First time around about 2.5 years ago  when Biocide+ & Inhibitor+  was released I had this formula running in my system for 17 months and when I took  my system and blocks apart to check how that product works  I was astonished, my blocks were like brand new and I have copper rads, nickle plated blocks, stainless steal thermal inner sensors and some aluminum inside flow meter ( 2 of them) not even discoloration from heat around micro fin channels,  this product deserves Nobel prize and I'm not kidding..heheh. 
 
15ml bottle of each will last you 2-3 years now you know you have options :)
 

AHowes
I'll say stay away from ek fluids! I used the clear 2 years ago and it didnt last but 9 months! Maybe the bottles were older from the microcenter shelf?

Mayhems X1 clear concentrate is what I used over a year ago and still looks good but going to update the system so I'm swapping it out with you guessed it.. more X1!

Crazy story though.. many years ago I built a water cooling rig for my father and nephew. I only used copper blocks and plane distilled water with kill coils... Both were still clear as day!

I'm talking around 5 years later! I never serviced them nor did they know what to do so they did not either.

I bought my nephews system back from him and dismantled it and the water was shockingly clear!

My father brought his system over a year ago to fix his power button on the case that broke.. so I vacuumed out the large case and decided to remove and flush the CPU block to check it and re paste the block.. and the water was clear!

My system is in the basement and out of sunlight.. I should go back to pure distilled water but for some reason I'm too chicken! Haha

I guess it's from reading the labels are that say to use a inhibitor and anti corrosion in your fluids for the ek nickle plating and pumps.

Anyways.. I'm done with soft tubes that always end up with plasterisation! Going petg the first time. See how the water looks in 10+ months.

Anyways.. mayhems X1 concentrate is cheap enough. Mix it with distilled water and go.


Tip: stay away from color period.. and that also goes for colored tubing! With plasterisation. You end up coating all your blocks and rads! Big mess!

AHowes
I'll say stay away from ek fluids! I used the clear 2 years ago and it didnt last but 9 months! Maybe the bottles were older from the microcenter shelf?

Mayhems X1 clear concentrate is what I used over a year ago and still looks good but going to update the system so I'm swapping it out with you guessed it.. more X1!

Crazy story though.. many years ago I built a water cooling rig for my father and nephew. I only used copper blocks and plane distilled water with kill coils... Both were still clear as day!

I'm talking around 5 years later! I never serviced them nor did they know what to do so they did not either.

I bought my nephews system back from him and dismantled it and the water was shockingly clear!

My father brought his system over a year ago to fix his power button on the case that broke.. so I vacuumed out the large case and decided to remove and flush the CPU block to check it and re paste the block.. and the water was clear!

My system is in the basement and out of sunlight.. I should go back to pure distilled water but for some reason I'm too chicken! Haha

I guess it's from reading the labels are that say to use a inhibitor and anti corrosion in your fluids for the ek nickle plating and pumps.

Anyways.. I'm done with soft tubes that always end up with plasterisation! Going petg the first time. See how the water looks in 10+ months.

Anyways.. mayhems X1 concentrate is cheap enough. Mix it with distilled water and go.


Tip: stay away from color period.. and that also goes for colored tubing! With plasterisation. You end up coating all your blocks and rads! Big mess!