You heard a pop? I would take out the GPU and give it a once over and smell it, see if it smells like burning.

Can you test the card in another pc?

Have it checked at a local pc shop then.

The pop (clicking) sound should come from the relay in your PSU. That is completely normal when shutdown the PSU.
 
Usually when GPU is unstable it won't shutdown the PC entirely, should just exit the current program or just freeze.
 
Blackscreens or directly shutdowns should mostly be the PSU problems. I suggest you buy a new PSU, platinum 1000w+, and try it on. If not the PSU problem just return the new psu, and RMA your GPU.

The point of me saying have your card tested at a local shop would determine where the issue is coming from. Buying another psu is another option as is rma'ing the card.

Okay, I was playing COD warzone and had only +70Mhz on the card and %118 power. Game freeze at 1995Mhz. Then I dialed it back to +60Mhz and played COD MW Multiplayer and it crashed after 2 minutes again.
 
Then, I went online browsing this EVGA forum and my computer just shut down randomly again while just the browser open!
 
This is really unacceptable for a card that costs $110 more than the Founders Edition which runs at higher clock speed.
 
Please look at my purchase history, I had EVGA 580 > 680 > 780 TI > 980 Ti and loved the quality of the products but this GPU and with all the wait and delay, you would think that it would be worth the wait. Very bad experience so far, especially now if I have to RMA it and wait for another GPU. I think I will just return it and wait for AMD.

I dont know if you have read my other thread but my GPU crash in COD MW Multiplayer and Warzone and my computer simply shut down 3 times (2 yesterday and one just half an hour ago).
 
The GPU was idle as I was using the browser to browse posts here on EVGA and all of the sudden, my computer turned off.
 
I want to try one last troubleshooting step and see if it will fix it, how can I flash the old OC BIOS? I made a backup but no idea how to flash it.
 
Thank you.

Very well could be, I've seen several here on the forum where that was the cause.

I'm having the same issue with the 3080 TI variant of this card, after switching back to my 1080TI the problem no longer persists, leading me too believe that it's indeed a video card issue. 

As my computer is top end, and the PSU is Gold rated EVGA as well. 

Classic PSU / extension cable problems.  Never heard back from OP so have to assume removing the extension cables fixed it.  1000w G2 should be fine.  The other guys - your PSU might be good, but goes into protect on the load.  3080 Ti FTW3 put my 1300W Seasonic Prime Gold into protect twice and the PSU is otherwise OK, switched to a SF Leadex SE Plat 1000w.

As someone else suggested to monitor that 12v rail in real time.
There's a monitoring program u can use with a tablet or phone
"Remote system monitor server control"

alandx
I think it is your PSU problem, you should get a better PSU

He has an EVGA G2 1000W Gold+. I guess you are just trying to get your post count up based on most of your posts are useless and also show you dont even read. 

The popping sound most likely came from a safety shutdown of the PSU. I would not expect that to be a blown capacitor.
 
Further to that, PSU cable extensions are problematic when they don't come from a known qualified source simply because by adding them there are more points of failure added to the equation of power sourcing the GPU.
 
All that being said I still dont get why 2025-2050 clocks were considered "bad" from the OP when the turbo clock of 3080 ftw3 is at 1800 if I am not mistaken.
 
As for the PSU being a problem thats unlikely unless it was an old used PSU. If that was the case then lets say a 10% per year wear and tear of the PSU + the overclock at 118% + whatever the rest of the system is using, there is a chance that the PSU dropped out or the extensions caused a problem.
 
I have clocked max 2110mhz on mine on default settings but preferred to undervolt it for less heat, noise and better stability. Still think 30 series is a waste to be kept at default when it can perform superb with an undervolt. Current 0.825mv/1950mhz stable.