Phillips 66 makes motorcraft oil.

Still researching a few details
 
leaning towards the Amsoil signature series - after finding this:  Premium Protection for High-Horsepower Ford Mustangs
 (excerpt)
 
"AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for Ford Mustang applications calling for 5W-50 motor oil and requiring the Ford WSS-M2C931-C performance specification."
 (end excerpt)
 
 
Amsoil's product page (AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-50) was not very clear at all -- when looking for that information, confirming it complies with the FORD WSS-M2C931-C spec. Requirements.
 
Have you been happy with their filters ?  or what brand filter do you like to use
 
Searching online for information, has been bit of a pain, my car's information does not align with the ROUSH supercharger 5W-50 requirement

To be safe always defer to the recommendations in the warranty...
For example if the warranty "recommends something" and you don't use it...you are now asking the manufacturer, of whatever you used, to defend their product...
The imagination can run wild at this point.
If warranty is important, to you, the safest course is to follow it.
More secure, Less messy and straight forward...imo

just ordered 12 Qt (case) AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil
 
need to get that 10 Qt oil change done .... before storage until warmer days with dry roads are back
 
going with the FORD filter
 
Decided to join the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program, saved $45.75 on that one case
 
- the membership was $10 for 6 months
 

 
 

harley262
 
nice car, mustang much better choice for a daily. youd have to put a bit of loot into a c2 to make it drive well, stock they are so sloppy and loose. the only real advantage the c2 has is the "wow" factor, you get a whole lot more looks in the vette.
10 litres, does it have an oil cooler or you getting extra for spillage?

2019 has the Gen3 Coyote 5.0 liter V8 engine, it takes 10 Qt oil - this is a standard amount of oil for this V8
 
My super charged engine requires premium oil in the engine - full synthetic 05W-50 - this is not the same Weight range, as the "stock 460 HP V8" requirements are only 5W20 oil & extended change intervals
 
yes, it has an oil cooler - this is a stock feature

Cool GTX
 
2019 has the Gen3 Coyote 5.0 liter V8 engine, it takes 10 Qt oil - this is a standard amount of oil for this V8
 
My super charged engine requires premium oil in the engine - full synthetic 05W-50 - this is not the same Weight range, as the "stock 460 HP V8" requirements are only 5W20 oil & extended change intervals
 
yes, it has an oil cooler - this is a stock feature

i ran amsoil syn 5w40 for a couple of vag cars when the oil changes were not free, seemed to work great. but i bought it from a local guy who signed up like you, who sold it a case at a time and would drop it off.
oil cooler i was thinking a big front mount with a hole cutout in the bumper cover/grille.

starting to think about what updates I'll make next ... looking at these
 
Anybody have GTECHNIQ - Crystal Serum Ultra - put on their car ?
 
Are any of the "ceramic coatings" that much better at keeping your car clean - make washing the car take less time ?
 
Also curious if anyone using an add-on "oil catch can" ?

Sajin
Ceramic coats are great for keeping the car paint in the best of conditions, but if you drive fast, and get a rock going at those speeds the rock can still penetrate to the paint, and can still leave nicks that won’t remove paint until the coating is taken off. I personally do not have a ceramic coating on my cobra.

Catch cans aren’t need if you’re fastidious about engine maintenance. Don’t use a catch can either.

This....Maintenance is key...and also if you're not racing the car, you should be fine....
 
 
Me and my Mustang...my face excised...no one wants to see that

I run an oil/moisture separator with a check valve in the PVC line where it comes out the block, before it goes back into the intake plenum.
Blown/heads/cam/intake 306, 93 SVT Cobra. It does help keep the intake plenum and intake valves clean.
It catches a lot of oil, moisture on a humid/foggy day, any gas blow by. I was surprised at how much gunk it catches. 
I had the intake off to change the injectors and add a new fuel pressure regulator, the intake was fairly clean and dry.
Also the rear plugs #4 and #8 used to be a little wet when I would pull them, now since the oil separator they are dry.
The check valve helps stop the engine from getting pressurized when in boost. A very sensitive brass check valve from McMaster.
Basically the same oil separator one would use on an air compressor, works great.
All the parts and hose right from McMaster Carr dot com.
 

 

transdogmifier

Sajin
Ceramic coats are great for keeping the car paint in the best of conditions, but if you drive fast, and get a rock going at those speeds the rock can still penetrate to the paint, and can still leave nicks that won’t remove paint until the coating is taken off. I personally do not have a ceramic coating on my cobra.

Catch cans aren’t need if you’re fastidious about engine maintenance. Don’t use a catch can either.

This....Maintenance is key...and also if you're not racing the car, you should be fine....
 
 
Me and my Mustang...my face excised...no one wants to see that

Nice Ride
 
What wax or sealant are you using ?  I remember love bug season in Central FL
 
The initial cost of the two step paint prep/polish & 9 year "ceramic" sealant ... I'm looking for glossy paint & minimal time / effort to get the bugs off the car, wheels, glass .... after I get home from a joy ride.
 
Spending an hour or two detailing the car after each ride - is not my idea of enjoyment .... wax on / wax off ....

Cool GTX
 
I will not try to drive over the curbs & you don't try to pull 1G in the corners & we will both have fun
 
Besides I like my 4Runner

No issues with corners my stance is wide enough, and as long as you have a newer mustang you won't be going over curbs and crowd plowing. If its an older suspension that was not heavily modified like mine was so I could stay on the road then yeah staying off the curbs and out of the crowds may be an issue. I do mess with some muscle cars, trucks, ricers off the line though from light to light a lot of hurt ego's from a moving brick with twin Turbo like my old Frankenstein -.-. I applied that sticker on the windshield and it didn't give me the 100hp they said it would on the site, even poked it with a stick and said do something. So took matters into my own hands. Jeep is still pretty fast even with the 35" tires and 3.5" lift. :o
Still more fun than a mustang, and even your 4runner offroad. Just saying haha. Have owned a 4runner as well. Meh compared to what a Jeep does, had to pull a few out and watch a few leave on the mountain in GA Beasley Knob. Rained for two days previously. Ripped a taillight out that day.

bill1024
I run an oil/moisture separator with a check valve in the PVC line where it comes out the block, before it goes back into the intake plenum.
Blown/heads/cam/intake 306, 93 SVT Cobra. It does help keep the intake plenum and intake valves clean.
It catches a lot of oil, moisture on a humid/foggy day, any gas blow by. I was surprised at how much gunk it catches. 
I had the intake off to change the injectors and add a new fuel pressure regulator, the intake was fairly clean and dry.
Also the rear plugs #4 and #8 used to be a little wet when I would pull them, now since the oil separator they are dry.
The check valve helps stop the engine from getting pressurized when in boost. A very sensitive brass check valve from McMaster.
Basically the same oil separator one would use on an air compressor, works great.
All the parts and hose right from McMaster Carr dot com.
 

 

 
Diggin' the Car!! Nice!
 

It is more like this one. It has to be a very low opining pressure. I think the one I got was 3/8in???
https://www.mcmaster.com/check-valves/air-flow-check-valves-5/
 
For some reason they are not letting me see my order history.
I'll try to get some numbers off of it and take a pic of the setup I have.
And I'll see if I can find the thread from the corral where I got the info from.
He had links to all the parts he used and I pretty much copied what he did.
 
Mods on the car:
GT40x heads, E cam, 75mm MAF, 42# injectors, 340 LPH fuel pump, 3:73 gears, Vortech S trim 8# boost
A/F ratio gauge, Boost/vacuum gauge, after market fuel regulator, 3 row aluminum radiator
ceramic coated FRPP shorty headers, BBK catted X pipe and Dynomax 2.5 cat back
Centerforce clutch, new radiator fan clutch and fan blade, new gas tank, headlight/corner light kit.
New motor and tranny mounts,  oil separator setup to keep intake clean. 
I changed the discharge pipe in that pic to the metal one with the bypass valve installed.
And put a smaller pulley on for a couple more # of boost.
I am sure there is more, there always is!
 
 
EDIT my link won't go to the part, just goes to where the checkvalves are.
1096T11  is the part number of the one I am looking at.  But let me check the forums and my car to make sure 1st