Slots for wire and tube routing were cut out of the top and bottom shelves.  I attempted to use a pattern router bit, but the deep cut forced the bit's bearing into the 3/8-inch thick particle board, ruining it.  

So I switched to using a pattern to guide the base of the router.

The slots along the edge of the bottom shelf were cut in such a way to allow tubing and wiring to pass without significantly weakening the 1/2 x 1-inch u-channel.


Bottom shelf slots:


Top shelf slots:




Finally, two slots were also cut out of a portion of the "false" back:

Any more updates?

Looking good! 

The three pieces of "false" back were attached to the bottom shelf via three pieces of 1/2-inch angle and some socket cap screws.

very nice

In order to accurately drill the bolt holes to attach the perforated aluminum to the side panels, I fabricated a drill template from some left over flat bar stock and a drill bushing I had lying around the shop.

A couple of spacers was used to quickly and accurately place the jig on the work piece (to avoid having to measure/layout the location of the holes).


Some .063 perforated aluminum cut to size:



To accurately cut the rounded corners on the side panels a router jig was fab'd from a piece of the corner round used on the body of the case, 1-inch u-channel and a couple of 1-2-3 block hot glued to some particle board.  Two strips of Mylar from an old drum head was used to smooth out any irregularities.


Tah-dah!

Another requirement for this case is a hidden door latching mechanism.
Look Ma!  No latches!


A length of .125x.75-inch flat bar was bolted to the bottom of the door to act as a lip that will hook into the u-channel along the bottom of the case, for example:


Along the top of the door, there is a piece of angle with three "hooks", which were routed out using a cobbled together router template.  



A thick piece of flat bar was filed down to where it'll slide easily inside the u-channel along the top of the case.  To that three "posts" were bolted to it.  When slid forward, the posts will engage the hooks.

i lvoe people with too much money and time on their hands... cool things like this happen...

A large area of the right side panel was cutout for a 16x15-inch acrylic window.

Coming along nicely!

I made a mistake, placing the false back too far into the case, which required having to re-fabricate the back sheet.  But I figured I could take advantage of the situation by improving the mounting of the motherboard tray, by fastening the tray to the false back with a 7/8-inch long spacer.

I don't remember if I already offered this tip before, but I try to reduce the wear and tear on my 1/2-inch flush cutting router bit by first rough cutting with a 3/16-inch spiral downward cutting bit.

Great work for sure!!! Can't wait to see this completed...+1 already!

amazing build 'till now...can't wait to see it done!

The case itself weighs ~50 pounds, so casters are required.
 
 
Another router template was made to cutout the areas for the PSUs out of the back sheet.  A guide was clamped to the bottom of the template to keep the cutouts perfectly aligned along the bottom.

Turned out that I needed to cut one more slot out of the bottom shelf. But the last time I used my wooden "small slot" router template, I somehow managed to crush one edge, so I quickly cobbled together a new out of some left over t-slot extrusion.  I'm really loving using these t-slot extrusions to make router templates - fast and accurate!


Here's a teeth-shattering video of me cutting out the slot: http://youtu.be/-3V7PWJReus