Y'all might wanna check your mount if you have a gap.. I used 2mm thermal pads per DaBadger's thread.
 

Robert0507
Does the HC have a specific inlet and outlet or can they be hooked up in any order?

Sorry for the late response, the side closer to the IO bracket is for inlet and the side closer to the power input us the outlet, designed for that flow direction specifically
You can use any of the 3 ports on each side for hooking up your fittings

It's small as hell 😆Dabadger is just being OCD 😆

Finished my loop yesterday. Now time for some oc on my hc kingpin. So far max On 520w 130 core/ 1400 mem
15130 in PR
Might need little more advice for getting the max oc.

Dabadger84
130 core 1400 memory isn't too shabby for not messing with Classified Tool at all.  Score sounds about right for those clocks.

Yeah hope i can get higher scores once i mess with classified.
Seems like all the 3090 cores are re spun cores (3080ti)
Hope that doesn't effect performance at all

Edit 130 core/ 1600 mem

Gaze upon this monstrosity.

CptT95
that card barely fits in there LMAO

 
I've seen people do a water loop in this case by side mounting their card, but even then this card is almost the length of the case.  I would've had to put the pump behind or just above and then run the tubes across the middle of the case and connect them on the inside. If any of those fittings or plugs are lose, or if they fail, you might as well kiss the whole build goodbye. I did try it, but couldn't figure out how the mounting widget screwed into the other do-dad.
 
Honestly, I'm at peace with the fact that my case is now an open air case for the foreseeable future.

degenerate
For those who have disassembled the KPE Hybrid and installed the KPE HC block: Is it possible to de-shroud the KPE without removing the pump/block assembly & VRM heatsinks?

100% yes.  The shroud is a completely independent unit other than the RGB plug in, it's not connected to anything but the PCB by screws, some of which are also backplate screws.
 
The VRM heatsinks have their own screws holding them on, they're the 4 weird looking ones as compared to the rest of the screws:
 

 
The two black ones near the top side in the middle by the OLED, and the two on the bottom left & right that aren't lined up, those hold the VRM heatsinks on/keep them attached to the puddy.  As long as you don't remove those, the VRM heatsinks won't go anywhere.
 
Pretty sure you have to remove the backplate, and the two screws near where tubes go in/out to remove the shroud if I'm remembering correctly.  I did it once to test magnets effecting pump noise when I still had the AIO on my card.
 
 
 
In other news, I'm performing some tests...
 
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/1064386 Effective clock on that one was "only" 2145-2175...

The one PCIe bracket screw might need to be removed that's towards the slot - may even want to entirely remove the bracket because otherwise the curved-end under the shroud might make it hard to take off. Pretty sure the OLED has to come off, because the outer 2 of those connect to the shroud.  Might have to remove all 4 of the black screws near the pump's tubing in/outs.
 
But I'm 99.9% sure the AIO pump head does not need to be removed at all to get the shroud off.
 
 Edit: Observing a video of removing the shroud to redo the paste, guy took off the PCIe bracket & the only part that's still grabbing is the OLED & in/out tube area because he hasn't taken those screws off yet.  So I'd say remove the bracket or at least remove it's screws.  

I had all screws removed (incl. PCIE bracket) except for the 8 screws holding the pump/block & the VRM heatsinks. It was frustrating...
 
So it turns out it was one of the threaded tabs on the shroud for securing the backplate. When lifting the shroud, said tab would catch on the edge of the block/pump assembly. I had to loosen 2 screws of the block/pump assembly near the PCIE fingers in order for it to have some "give" so that the tab could clear the obstruction (which was the outer-most edge of the pump/block assembly, the black plate).
 
So everything is now back installed and I have to run some tests to see if I borked the factory application of paste & pads. I was reefing on that shroud pretty hard too hope I didn't bend the PCB or something. *fingers crossed*
 
The plan was to re-do thermal pads on the backplate, install a custom heatsink ontop of the backplate and then de-shroud the PCB but once I got the backplate off I realized it requires the shroud to fasten the backplate, so now I have to order some screws and nuts so I can secure the backplate without having the shroud installed. We're still hiding in our bunkers here in Canada due to the flu so project goes on hold until next week.... blargh.
 
Does anyone know what size & thread the backplate/shroud screws are? They are tiny.... M1.5 or something it seems like but I need to be certain.

kissTheApex
Ummm, how bad of an idea is it to install the pump/res combo on top of the PSU shroud? I mean, if there’s a catastrophic leak, it doesn’t matter where it is things are going to get messed up, to put it mildly.

I think right now the plan is to get EK FLT240 D5 pump/res combo and mount it horizontally on top of the PSU shroud, as far away from PSU as possible.

Having a liquid leak in to your PSU can be fire-hazard level bad, so that's definitely not a good idea.
 
Having said that, as long as you make sure your fittings are tightened properly (and not over tightened or leaking) before you power the actual system on (leak test without powering on the system, easy peasy), it should be completely fine no matter where it is.

Well unfortunately every day this week is getting in to the 90s & not cooling down anywhere near enough for me to get the ambient in my room down enough to bother with an extended OC session looks like.  If we get lucky & have an evening storm as the sun's going down to cool it off outside earlier, I'll give it a go, otherwise I probably won't bother this week.
 
I once again have to call somewhere tomorrow & schedule an appointment for my vehicle, the dealership I normally use flat out said they can't even do the alignment on the vehicle because it requires some kind of special bolts that only a BMW dealership would have in stock - and the size used depends on how the alignment is, so just ordering them isn't a good idea since it may need different sizes etc... which means I have to call the nearest BMW dealership, go through they're intrusive process of setting up a service thing then get an appointment set & take it in, then who knows how long (or how much) that will cost.  Part of me wishes I'd never bought the thing with all these stupid issues already, but at least once that's done there's nothing left to do but drive it for the next 6+ months.  Would have been nice if they'd actually LOOKED at the alignment setup the first time they had the vehicle in there & told me this THEN, I could've already had the alignment done at a BMW dealership by now if I'd known it HAD to be done at one.  Grrrr... few things I hate more than complete wastes of time/gas/money like yesterday's drop off/pick up was.  I could've slept in or done something actually productive instead of all that mess.
 
 
I guess the fact that eVGA actually had Hybrid cards available on launch means the 3080 Ti has indeed been in the works (as was speculated) since the 3080 launched.  NVidia are going on my evil company list if they keep this crap up, it's quite clear they don't give a rat's arse about customers or gamers in general with the way they've been doing things the entirety of the last 9 months.

Curious what flow rate you guys get in your loop. Thanks

Where can we get the classified tool?
Thanks

air cooled 11700k @ 5.0ghz
kingpin hybrid
xmp 3200 ram
regular case, regular conditions
 
too cheap to pay for port royal