Johnny_Utah

bcavnaugh
At lest now only the EVGA Graphics Card is Missing

 

Lookin' sharp there brother.

Thanks

GTXJackBauer

AHowes
Naw seeing the low flow on my ek supreme CPU block with it being the only block in the loop and a large 360 fat EK rad.. I cant imagine adding more blocks to that loop like one large mono block and GPU. Barely see the liquid moving in the ek res.

What pump are you running and what's it set at?

EK Revo 140 D5 PWM set on max. Damn plate in the ek supreme CPU block used is standard. Next build will grab a bigger opening less restrictive plate for it.

AHowes
Naw seeing the low flow on my ek supreme CPU block with it being the only block in the loop and a large 360 fat EK rad.. I cant imagine adding more blocks to that loop like one large mono block and GPU. Barely see the liquid moving in the ek res.

While the EK Supreme CPU block is relatively high flow restriction there is no way it should restrict flow that much. And water barely flowing will impact cooling performance. Testers recommend around 1 GPM and this is visibly more than a trickle.
 
What can happen is that the cooling engine can get blocked with debris. Remove the block and disassemble it *. Check the cooling engine and give the bits inside a gentle clean. Don't use vinegar... some people do this and end up corroding their block. Use use water and a tooth brush and physically move any small particles of junk that have accumulated. It is also worth running a cleaner through your system with a filter in series to make sure any other junk in the loop gets caught before hitting the CPU block again. I've used Mayhems two Part Blitz system. First step is an acid that does not hurt copper or nickel. Second is some foaming agent.
 
* Usually I avoid taking CPU block apart as if you are not careful you can damage the O-ring, either by trapping the O-ring out of its channel or over tightening. But in this instance it is worth doing with care. (Take particular care putting it back together again). (You also need to test away from loop to make sure in not over tightening you did not under tighten as well!)
 

bcavnaugh
At lest now only the EVGA Graphics Card is Missing

 

 
They have done a really nice job on the aesthetics on the Hydro Copper this generation. Very smart. Congrats.

givingtheheat

bcavnaugh
At lest now only the EVGA Graphics Card is Missing

 

 
I had no clue evga had its own block, I like it more than the ek and others I've seen.  I think I found my block lol.  Let us know how it performs!

Will Do!
Ti XC/XC2/FE
EVGA Hydro Copper Waterblock for EVGA/NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC/XC2/FE, 400-HC-1389-B1, RGB
Back in stock and still on sale, Still waiting for the FTW3 myself.
EVGA Hydro Copper Waterblock for EVGA/NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 XC/XC2/FE, 400-HC-1189-B1, RGB
FTW3
EVGA Hydro Copper Waterblock for EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3, 400-HC-1489-B1, RGB
EVGA Hydro Copper Waterblock for EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 FTW3, 400-HC-1289-B1, RGB
 

Quick preview. Should be done putting it all back together tonight.
 

Well... I will join it.
 
Here is a close up of my work in progress rig with an EVGA RTX 2080 XC Gaming. It is currently installed with the air cooler for initial testing. Assuming that it passes that okay, then I have an EK Water Block waiting to be installed to make a second loop.
 

 
Now there was also a little drama yesterday... somewhat off topic, but if anyone can advice me off thread (by PM or whatever) I would be grateful: 
 
I attached my CPU D5 pump to my PSU to fill my CPU loop and bleed the system. Nothing else - thankfully - was attached. There was a fairly quiet pop sound (like a popcorn being cooked in a pan and pop-ing), a slight wiff of smoke and the circuit breaker to that part of my house was triggered. Oh dear. Clearly the PSU is screwed now. But the original cause... was it the PSU or the D5 pump that failed? Has anybody heard of a D5 causing that kind of failure or is it more likely the PSU?
 
Anyways... the last thing I want to do is get a replacement PSU only for that to go pop as well! 1) A multimeter test of the D5 proved that the pump was not shorted at least. 2) I wanted to see if the D5 still runs, without risking another PSU. Ladies and Mentelgen... let me introduce you to my new PSU. (Yes, I know that this is insufficient for the X299 Dark and RTX 2080 Ti).
 

 
Well... the pump seems fine. Hopefully a new PSU will arrive tomorrow so I can get back to testing the GPU. See... back on topic!!!

Cool GTX
Second card finally arrives - from Amazon .... was Ordered 20 Aug & originally set for 24 Sept delivery .... actually delivered 11 Oct ... 18 days late

Follow my other Threads - to learn more:  Code Name: RTX project         &     Post "Your" EVGA 2080 Ti Ultra benchmark Scores
 

 

 
I occasionally get tempted by adding a 2080Ti on water but at the least I'd love to be able to just hold two of them at the same time.
 

SimonOcean
 
 
Well... I will join it.
 

 
Well... the pump seems fine. Hopefully a new PSU will arrive tomorrow so I can get back to testing the GPU. See... back on topic!!!

Lol this is hilarious. Kudos to the DIY power.
 
I'm about 99.5% done with this thing.
 

 

 

 

 
The whole setup (prior to the 2080ti FTW3 upgrade) 

 
Cheers

transdogmifier
The new tech.....I wants it...If they put out a non-RGB one I will jump on it immediately.....
 

 
If they dont, you could always just switch the LED's to off in their software. 

SimonOcean

shiftsix

transdogmifier
The new tech.....I wants it...If they put out a non-RGB one I will jump on it immediately.....
 

 
If they dont, you could always just switch the LED's to off in their software. 

Or Ducktape!

 
Nah. I don't want to add to the "See, they like RGB" metric. I'd love to see that trend die a horrible death.
 

gutcheck
And for those of you whom yelled at me about a backplate.....
 

See? Don't you feel much better now? LOL. Looking sharp.

 
So in the whole chaotic mess that was the 2080 Ti pre order, I had a Best Buy pre order with an estimated ship date of 10/26... On a random best buy trip I asked what their stock was, and to my surprise they found one about 70 miles away. Bought it, drove hard, and picked up the prize. Also installed a new 1000 watt g+ psu, upgraded form and 750watt. Cancelled the pre order. Sometimes its worth it to check.
 
 
 

EVGA XC Gaming. Performing really well on EK block.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here mine 
 

GTXMan

4STAR
@gtxman what sort of thermals you seeing from that single 360 rad ?

 
I can hit 51 on the card depending on the game during extended sessions on my 24/7 OC which is +100/+1000 - that's with ambient of ~32, 33. Project Cars 2 VR for example will take me there. Other games like Forza 4 on physical display never go above mid 40's, so it varies.
 
Fans are running at 1k RPM. I was aiming for a balance between decent temps and lowest possible noise levels (I have an almost-OCD level obsession with noise) so it's working out but I think for my next update I will replace the LCD fan controller - it's barely usable and sometimes beeps for no reason - and probably go with a 480 rad to fill out the additional space and improve cooling. I'm still aiming to use the Corsair "quiet edition" fans and keep RPM on the lower end.
 
I typically wear my Bose noise-cancelling headphones so I don't hear it at all when gaming or doing music production but other tasks when I don't use the headphones I'm constantly amazed at how quietly this thing runs given the power its putting out.

If you're still interested on a non bay controller, have a look at the Aquaero 6 LT or their QUADRO controller.  Both from the same company (Aqua Computer) and one has more features (6 LT) than the other as they both use the companies software (Aquasuite).  Don't want to break it all down as there's lots to talk about and its a learning curve but great stuff to literally run it all on there.  The Aquaero 6 LT seems to be sold out and has been out for a while, while the QUADRO is new and a much cheaper solution to controlling and monitoring your stuff.
 
Check here for more info.