yaggaz So I got a H55 AIO connected. Have two fans on either side of the 120mm with a push/pull config. Whereas I averaged 74c while gaming at 2k/75fps before the install. It's now Averaging 51c while gaming 2k/75fps I am calling this a WIN for my personal temperature goal but I still need to achieve the quiet goal AND I cant find a place to mount the Radiator in the P400a without spewing heat back in, OR getting heat spewed on it where mounted. It just finally dawned on me WHY "the fans" were getting so noisy during 2k/4k. Here I was thinking it was the 2080 cooler but now with the Kraken G12 and VRM fan set to my fan hub I knew it couldn't be that. Listening very closely it's the BQ 750 watt evga PSU fan. I was totally unaware they had fan curves?? If I purchase an evga GQ top of the line 1200watt PSU will that keep the fan speed low because it'll be way above what I'm drawing? Thanks for all the advice so far, I would have given up and gone back to my 980 without you guys help.
yaggaz Yeah the pump in the AIO I have at full speed and it's dead silent. I'm very happy with it. :D According to outervision.com psu calculator, where I added up all the components in my system accurately, it recommended 573 PSU wattage. So what PSU should I go for to keep that fan shut the heck up? :) I noticed it also said "Recommended PSU Efficiency 86.72%" This is something else new to me I'm trying to understand. Obviously buying a 1200 platinum evga PSU would cover it but I gotta be budget conscious. Also here is my AIO. I was hoping kevin could take a look at this too as he has the same p400a case as me. The amount of heat this thing spews into the case is tremendous. Having an AIO that pulls heat from the GPU and then spews it directly back onto the GPU and into the case seems counter productive, but I just can't work out where to mount it. Downward into the basement? This is another example of me rushing in without researching The tubes are only 300mm, I should have gone with a 400mm NZXT one as that at least would allow me to reach the case ceiling and mount it as an exhaust.
yaggazThanks heaps, yeah it looks like it's $$$ to get rid of the PSU noise. Do you mean replace the front top fan with the radiator and its fans? How do I make it reach the upper front section? See how the way the tubes point down and then they curve around, this is my first AIO and I don't know how far I can bend them, or stretch them without it pulling off the kraken. I am getting a vertical mount soon enough so maybe that will create enough clearance to give me an extra inch or two of tube length? Thanks for help!
GTXJackBauer I can barely hear mine and it's a Corsair AX1200i. I could manually crank up the fan but leave it alone as my PC barely hits 60% load. I think my PC pulls 500-550w on average at max load while gaming or folding. All I hear are the 9 rad fans and 3 case fans. Even my D5 pumps @ 90% are
kevinc313Glad to see you got results you're happy with, I second Jack's advice on tweaks. Along with moving the rad up, you could try the top-front fan again and/or add a pull fan to your cpu cooler and/or remove the top-rear fan.
yaggaz I also just read this about the Corsair AX1200i "All of the three have smart fan controller that only fires up the fan when the system reaches certain load threshold. That means the fan won’t start spinning until it’s over 40% load for Hx/RMx series. Meanwhile, some of the new Ax models can hold up to 65% at 0 rpm fan speed." So that would mean the fan would almost never come on if you don't go over 600w draw?
yaggaz Haha I ordered the AX 1600i. Ah dear what overkill to keep a fan silent. Now to explain to the missus...
yaggaz I cushioned it with "Hey hun you know how I'm building you a new home work PC? I got you an almost new Power supply..."
GTXJackBaueryaggaz I cushioned it with "Hey hun you know how I'm building you a new home work PC? I got you an almost new Power supply..." If she only knew...."Um, we could power the microwave and a gaming PC at once. Who's with me?"
GTXJackBauerRidiculously overkill but grats!
yaggazGTXJackBauerRidiculously overkill but grats! Hey Jack I was wondering if you can help me out with something. Th 1600i has zero instructions on the cables so I am curious why one end of the cables is always marked “Type”. And the other end “PCI-E”. Or “CPU”. Which end goes into the PSU? The “Type” end?Also It has a 24 pin motherboard cable but the other end is a strange 18 + 10 connection. Do I need all 28 plugged into the psu or just the 18 piece? Thanks
yaggazAlso the PCI-E cables have two different numbers on the type end. One says “34-0 00508”. And the other type says “34-0 00477”Is there a specific type I need to use on my RTX?
GTXJackBaueryaggazGTXJackBauerRidiculously overkill but grats! Hey Jack I was wondering if you can help me out with something. Th 1600i has zero instructions on the cables so I am curious why one end of the cables is always marked “Type”. And the other end “PCI-E”. Or “CPU”. Which end goes into the PSU? The “Type” end?Also It has a 24 pin motherboard cable but the other end is a strange 18 + 10 connection. Do I need all 28 plugged into the psu or just the 18 piece? ThanksyaggazAlso the PCI-E cables have two different numbers on the type end. One says “34-0 00508”. And the other type says “34-0 00477”Is there a specific type I need to use on my RTX? Ok so the 8-pin connectors from 1-10 are all for the CPU power cable and PCIe (GPU) power cable. The CPU cable is for your CPU power header ONLY on your MB and PCIe cable is what powers your GPU(s). Use two individual cables to power the GPU. Peripheral and SATA are for your SATA and Molex power connects for HDs, CD/DVD Drives, etc. The 24 PIN ATX is for your MB. The cable should 'click' in place once they're installed properly. Btw, don't worry about plugging them in wrong because they shouldn't. Each pin has a certain housing shape to it that only aligns and plugs in the correct way so in essence it's noob proof. If you want some extra eyes involved, snap a few shots from end to end and post them on here before powering it on and we'll give you the green light once it all looks proper. Use hosting site imgur to host your images.
yaggazOkay thanks but where it says “24 pin Atx” on the back of the PSU, do I plug in ONLY the 18 part or both the 18 pin part + the 10 pin part?
yaggazThanks. That’s the part that threw me off. 24 pins to 28 pins seems odd. Got to love never hearing the fan on the PSU.I have what I finally want. 2k gaming at 75fps average with both CPU, GPU temps in their late 40s to early 50s under load and a whisper quiet system. I’ve received a massive education in PC cooling since I got the 2080 lolI want to thank everyone that offered advice, way back from day one when I posted the picture of my old case lol. Special thanks to both you Jack and Kevin for all the time and patience you showed helping me get here.Now all I need is a 1440p monitor and then I can experience TRUE native 1440 instead of the scaled I’ve been testing at. I’ve never actually seen with my own eyes what 1440 native looks like on a PC monitor. I can’t wait.Then I can finally present my wife the answer to her repeated question “Are you finally done upgrading yet???” 😎
GTXJackBauerIt's time to move to 27". It will give you so much more in desktop space, browing, etc. 1ms is more for FPS games but if you're not into that, IPS is great since the colors pop more.
yaggaz Heh now I'm ripping my hair out all night researching this not knowing what to do. According to the DPI calculator my current monitor is 102 dpi whereas the ROG you linked in 109 dpi. Does that mean that at the same distance it has better clarity because of more DPI? Edit: Oh good my local Best Buy has them in store. I might drop in during my lunch break and see if I can get a look at some gameplay on it.