EVGATech_JoseR
Hi (ZHU) and welcome to the EVGA forums! I would not recommend going  with the metallic base Arctic Silver but instead using the ceramic version. The one in the image has metal pieces that may damage the circuitry if it spills over into the PCB. 

Thank you. What high quality thermal paste would you recommend? i want something as good, better or the same found on the GTX 980 from EVGA.

knightsilver
Im not a fan of toms but,
 
 
 
Just make sure what ever tim you use, not to over use the amount of tim. I love AS5, because it does spread even and easy, but just takes abit more prep time and watching what your doing. 
 
link:ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 (its not AS5)
 
 

This looks like the next best thing. Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut or MX4 and it's non conductive.
 
 
 
 

I use MX4 now on my GPUs and CPus, it works just as good as the TIM that comes on the Hybrid and CPU AIOs from any MFGR
I buy the large tube for 19-21$ it is 20grams lasts me quite a while.
Guess you can get the 5g tube if you do not change coolers or build systems often.

Made With 99.9% Pure Silver:
 
Not Electrically Conductive:
Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat,           not electricity.
(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper             greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces,             pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound             is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems         if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)
 
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
 
''capacitive''
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_xtms0yd6E
 
I don't know if any ceramic  paste is better / safer
 
http://www.arcticsilver.com/cmq2.html
 
 
 
with any of it just don't do a sloppy job .   that stuff will get all over everything and smear     I compare it to never seize  use       you want just enugh to ooze  right up  just before you get to the edge of a chip when the cooler is properly compressed  evenly over its surface  
 
 
you can kinda see how much the factory cares on that
 

MX-4   Easy to correctly apply, it has never "dried-out" on me, Inexpensive & easy to find -- running my Folding Rigs 24/7 with it
 
unless your chasing benchmark World Records .......

ty_ger07

bill1024
Not if it gets on those other contacts all around the graphics chip there.
AC5 is conductive, don't want to short those metal bumps around the chip
I would use MX4 or other non-conductive TIM
 
If it is out of warranty you can cover those bumps with clear nail polish.
I have done that on a CPU when I used liquid metal on a delided CPU

WRONG!
 
Arctic Silver 5 is NOT CONDUCTIVE.  I don't know why that myth is perpetuated year after year.  Go to their website and view their product specifications and FAQ if you don't believe me.
 
 
Arctic Silver 5 is very slightly capacitive.  This means that it cannot short anything or cause any permanent damage.  In EXTREMELY RARE cases, in extremely sensitive logic circuits, it may cause stability issues, but as soon as you wipe up the excess, the stability issues would instantly go away.  Therefore it will not cause permanent damage no matter where you accidentally over-apply it.
 
In the areas of concern in your picture, you could dump the whole packet all over those "metal bumps" and will have absolutely no issues at all.  I have smeared it all over those components (capacitors mostly) dozens of times.
 
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

Not Electrically Conductive:
Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.

 
Well I did some testing my self. I used a multimeter and a  600v DC megomiter
 
I put a dab on a piece of paper and put my amp/multimeter on OHMS and the setting of 100M ohms there was no conductivity
I got out the 600v megomiter ( it is closer to 800v than 600v DC) and tested and it was over 1000M ohms, = no conductivity.
That is the highest reading it could be. An electric motor is still good at 40M ohms caution. Below 20m windings going bad, or wet.
 
So my conclusion is I was wrong and Ty_ger 07 is correct. AC5 is not conductive.
But it is "is very slightly capacitive" and the makers of AC5 recommends to keep it away from contacts, pins ect....
From their ads. 
"Not Electrically Conductive
Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.
(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"
 
Now most people who responded to the thread would not use it, if for some reason it can cause stability and when cleaned off it is back to normal. Is it worth the risk. You can not see under the heat sink to see if it is touching anything else.
Me my self, I am still going to stick with MX4 since in my experience it was a couple deg. cooler than AC5.
 

With Arctic Silver 5, you do not 'dab' beads on.
You use a VERY thin coating of the whole die. As thin as you can get it. Scrape it across with a plastic card.
This makes it so it covers the die and any dips in the die, and it does not run over the edges (you can stop the coverage 1/16-1/8 inch from the die edge if you want to be extra careful, but I never do).
And, AS5 lasts REAL 3-5 years, WAY better than that which comes with both the gpu and cpu coolers, which 'really' only last a year before they become puff-like, powdery-like, and dont conduct much heat anymore.
I would NOT go with ceramic, unless you are using a water block, and some ceramics will void the warranty because you can NOT get the cooler off, its permanent.

ty_ger07

bill1024
Not if it gets on those other contacts all around the graphics chip there.
AC5 is conductive, don't want to short those metal bumps around the chip
I would use MX4 or other non-conductive TIM
 
If it is out of warranty you can cover those bumps with clear nail polish.
I have done that on a CPU when I used liquid metal on a delided CPU

WRONG!
 
Arctic Silver 5 is NOT CONDUCTIVE.  I don't know why that myth is perpetuated year after year.  Go to their website and view their product specifications and FAQ if you don't believe me.
 
 
Arctic Silver 5 is very slightly capacitive.  This means that it cannot short anything or cause any permanent damage.  In EXTREMELY RARE cases, in extremely sensitive logic circuits, it may cause stability issues, but as soon as you wipe up the excess, the stability issues would instantly go away.  Therefore it will not cause permanent damage no matter where you accidentally over-apply it.
 
In the areas of concern in your picture, you could dump the whole packet all over those "metal bumps" and will have absolutely no issues at all.  I have smeared it all over those components (capacitors mostly) dozens of times.
 
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

Not Electrically Conductive:
Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.

Geez, a lot of misinformation in this thread.  ty_ger is 100% accurate.

EVGATech_JoseR
Hi (ZHU) and welcome to the EVGA forums! I would not recommend going  with the metallic base Arctic Silver but instead using the ceramic version. The one in the image has metal pieces that may damage the circuitry if it spills over into the PCB. 

I am not the only one who believed it.
 
I did edit that post to reflect the fact it is not conductive, but still is not 100% safe as a mx4 would be.

bcavnaugh

already posted that above  did you look over / read any of the thread ?
 
 
 
quote=Dave3d]
With Arctic Silver 5, you do not 'dab' beads on.
You use a VERY thin coating of the whole die. As thin as you can get it. Scrape it across with a plastic card.
This makes it so it covers the die and any dips in the die, and it does not run over the edges (you can stop the coverage 1/16-1/8 inch from the die edge if you want to be extra careful, but I never do).
And, AS5 lasts REAL 3-5 years, WAY better than that which comes with both the gpu and cpu coolers, which 'really' only last a year before they become puff-like, powdery-like, and dont conduct much heat anymore.
I would NOT go with ceramic, unless you are using a water block, and some ceramics will void the warranty because you can NOT get the cooler off, its permanent.




have you looked over all  Instructions ?
 
http://www.arcticsilver.com/methods.html
 
the bad thing with your spreading it all over the ''die'  is that when you compress the cooler / cold plate it will ooze it out and off the sides  and in to things you don't want it to  .  
 
end result is like image QP4  [ just off the edges ]
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf
 
but it is a fine line on too much or too little  and that all comes with experience,    its more then applying paste and slapping a cooler on  anyway   unless you just want to run it with out the best most efficient cooling    if you got a out of whack lid or cold plate / needs lapping ,  too lose too tight mounting  , tightened dowm incorrectly / crooked / uneven  your just p'ing in the wind   , ya , it may cool good enough for light household or office use . I all ways check for the best and proper flatness and fit  .
 
maybe a GPU is not the same but I apply methods  the same to them .
 
good luck
 

I returned Arctic Silver 5 12g ($25.99) and got two ARCTIC MX-4 4g and kept the ArctiClean
 

What ever ya use, just be smart, clean (like i saidbefore), not not be lazy doing the install...

Isopropal alchohol and a clean brawny paper towel is what I use.
 
@Death
I have been using AS3-5 since they came out.
I guess I just think everyone knows how to apply it like I do.
I guess some people can think a 'thin' layer is 1/8 inch of paste, lol, but its not. Its a very thin sheet that you can almost see the die underneath the layer. That does NOT squeeze out, anywhere, in my years and years of putting together computers (since 1995).

(ZHU)
After the thermal paste change GPU #1 is at 80°C at 52% on the fan matching the new GPU #2 with the exact same numbers with 100% usage on both cards. I'm happy with these results. it's currently 84°F in my room.

I would say (80°C) 176°F is still to hot, how is the Fresh Air Flow in your case to the GPU's?
But then it is  84°F in your room.
What are your GPU's Running that brings up the Heat to 80°C?