Hey Phil.  Hope I can help you in the water cooling aspect of things.  The coolant temp and your delta's do seem high for the setup you have.
 
You'll want your flow running anywhere from 1.0-1.5 GPM.  That is the sweet spot.  I personally run mine at 1.1GPM as that is the setting that keeps my pumps at the lowest audible to me.
 
With the amount of heat surface, you have more than enough to cool almost 450w (@ stock settings) of hardware so something is obviously wrong with your cooling.
 
Are your rads set up in P/P or one or the other?  Have you tried running them at full blast to see if you got a change in delta's?  I will say, never heard of those fans before or know of them in the best fans for rads.  I'd advise on looking for some other fans whether it be on a budget or premium.  I could steer you in the right direction if you choose to head down that road.  Also, P/P does show a good improvement instead of a single fan on a rad for future reference.
 
So in conclusion, I believe your rads and internal case isn't getting good air flow.  You obviously have the water flow, which I think is fine but lack some good air flow.

Btw, the Aquaero is a great unit.  I just recently installed a AQ6 XT and love it.  If interested in my specs, check our my signature and modsrigs for more info.  

Hope this info helps and hope to hear back from you.

First try all front, top and bottom fans as intake and test and see what you get.   Than if that doesn't work, try front and bottom as intakes and top and rear as exhaust.
 
If all of that doesn't work, touch the tubing and radiators to see if they are heated up, make sure visibly the flow is moving because I believe you need to calibrate that flow meter to your aquaero and so its possible it might be off.
 
Let me know if any of this works.

Could you folks share ya load motherboard temp pls? Thanks.
 
Phil

Load temps, not idle. Thanks. 
 
Phil

This is the same load times as the last post above.  Just changed the sensors.  If I were to take my front ambient air sensor and water out, my delta changes drastically.  
 

 
Technically, this should be my real temp because the top sensors are obviously reading a cooler area while the front sensor which is near the majority of the rads in the case, should be the read out as I should be using since that air is being injected into the rads.  I have 120.9 worth of rad for only a CPU and 2 GPUs in SLI.  That's quite overkill if you ask most experts in the H20 community but because I wanted to have the option of running my fans very low for low noise and in only push configuration, I needed to add a tad more rad but this amount is still overkill.  
 
Regardless, its fun and you catch what they call the water cooling bug from time to time.  The last one I had recently was purchasing the Aquaero for monitoring, control and LEDs.  Its probably one of the best investments I've done in a while.

Well to be honest, OC 5930K shouldn't require any manual adjustments to the voltage. It should auto clock up to 4.4-4.5 something like that without any problems and ~1.28V. I can't provide screenshots right now as I dismantled whole setup on Sunday and I'm in the process of refitting it with PETG tubing and adding new waterblocks to raid controller (done) and sas expander (waiting for that one to arrive and see if it will fit because it's unbelievably tight). I will decide then if I add another 480 rad for 3x480 combo. Anyway..
 
Also running 5930K and 970 (EVGA SSC) but on Classy. Granted I don't play a lot VGA heavy games (I think Supreme Commander 1/2 is most taxing game I have), but with old setup 1 D5+360/45+480/45 all fans @1000 rpm (only push on both and doing push from top to bottom - whoooo I shouldn't do that, whooo it will explode! :P But at least I can keep dust in check). My CPU clocked at 4.4 and VGA left at stock. When I load all cores to 85% it still keeps the system reasonably cool - CPU socket (LED display) gets up to 68-70C, CPU cores itself are ~58-64C and if I game aforementioned SC it gets up to 74C (LED display). That's it. I don't waste time on Prime95 as it is meaningless test, but running BOINC number crunching round the clock gets you real life numbers. Also if I put VM up and do some background stuff CPU is never above that cap of 60 and a bit degrees with full load of all cores. Old setup idled at 38C.
 
Most probably your CPU is just bad OCer because you pumping way too much voltage on low frequency.
 
As for the case it looks like there are simply air pockets inside. From what you describing it should work fine, but perhaps humidity of the air is at play here. Tropics, Bah that's hot! BTW: have you tried premix coolants like EK Ekoolant (clear)? It may offer better thermals than just water+kill coil. I know in my case it did even in Europe which is - still - fairly cold/mild continent.

Your voltage isn't so bad.  Lets not forget you're running a 6-core now so things will hit up a bit but its not a horrible overclocker.  Plus, that's what the liquid cooling system is there for in case you need to bump those voltages to hit your number.  I'm comfortable with 4.5 as its been known to be the sweet spot for these chips.  Anything higher and you're in a different ball game.
 

ypsylon
As for the case it looks like there are simply air pockets inside. From what you describing it should work fine, but perhaps humidity of the air is at play here. Tropics, Bah that's hot! BTW: have you tried premix coolants like EK Ekoolant (clear)? It may offer better thermals than just water+kill coil. I know in my case it did even in Europe which is - still - fairly cold/mild continent.

I will have to disagree with that.  Best thermals is distilled water because of its purity as it can contain the highest thermal properties.  Any other "marketing stuff" is with the additives added to it when you could just drop in a kill coil or a few drops of deadwater.  The dyes, that's a whole other nightmare.
 
 

Idle. Ambient @ 31c.

Phil

Philwong

Idle. Ambient @ 31c.

Phil

 
Not bad phil.  Now lets see some load temps.
 

Zuhl3156
 
How are you measuring your temps? Just curious, thanks.

I'm using Aquaero's Aquasuite 2015 since I recently purchased the Aquaero 6 XT and never looked back.  The software is great since you can mix and match different sensors and allows you to create delta's, average of a bunch of temps, calibrate etc.  The thing is endless.  

I use 3 air temp sensors around the case.  Two on top and one in front of the case.  All are intake points.  I than use 2 water temp sensors on the INs and OUTs of the top rad and have a standalone water temp sensor built into my reservoir.

Ahh great Corsair RAM. To be honest I try to avoid all memory from Corsair and couple more manufacturers. The only 2 which I trust implicitly are Crucial and GEIL. Never had a single problem with these guys, but I had for example crapload of troubles with Kingston and Corsair.
 
I see you are running Koolance combo dual unit. Well I was planning on obtaining it for my previous system, but I decided against. Idea of pumps mounted upwards got me the shivers. Also res is very small for two pumps. Here may be your problem. One pump interferes with the other (there is no dedicated pressure/suction tube/conduit you can mount in tubular res). IMHO there is not enough fluid in this thing to feed two D5 pumps (problem compounded by unusual upwards mounting system). EK Bay Res is very nice. Never had a problem with it. Easy to fill and easy to maintain. Because of small case I think you should consider this and ditch Dual combo res from Koolance.  Let's be honest you don't need 2 D5 pumps in such small loop. I'm right now debating if I should add another pump with 3 480 rads and 4 waterblocks and I'm not too sure about that. D5 is a monster pump, if I decide to add 2nd it will be just redundancy thing running on lowest possible speed, but man my new loop will be about 3.5 L in volume. Yours is about 1/3rd of that at most.
 
What you should consider is to obtain low FPI rads. I know that V-1000 is not the biggest of cases, but with low FPI you can improve air circulation through the case without inducing tornado inside. :) Rads from Alphacool are great. A bit of thorough cleaning is required at the beginning (cost about 5-10$ wooooh), but after that it's smooth sailing with fairly to very quiet system. High FPI  rads may certainly compound the problem you have. Quite high temps with not a massive loop. Warm, humid air is much, much more difficult to push through let's say 20 FPI, which I think is what these Switfechs are, and 10 FPI. Out of curiosity which MCR320 you're running? XP or QP. XP is 20 and QP is 12. That's massive difference.
 
As for your question about XSPC rad. If you can get that behemoth inside then no problem. Certainly better than anything from Swiftech. But my advice if you're going with 60mm monster then look for lowest FPI you can find (HWLabds Black Ice SR-2-MP xtreme+ are 9 and any Nexxxos from Alphacool is 10 - it helps, because with high FPI count on a 60 mm rad you need literally tons and tons of air pressure). 14 on XSPC isn't bad, but you can always find lower (two mentioned, also Coolgate has 10FPI rads - heard nothing but good things about them). FPI matters a lot.

Temps look good, phil.  

Is this a single or dual loop and which is the air temp indicator on your graph?
 

What are you measuring your temps with, air and water?  I hope you know, the calibration could be way off and a setup like yours on average shouldn't be that far away in delta's unless something isn't going right.
 
I use 3 air and 3 water temp probes.  I will than check and see which one is "far out there" and what two are closest together and use that as my starting point for Delta-Temps.

Not really a biggie, but just to confirm that the latest Micro 2 is not equipped with a beeper unlike the original Micro.
 
Phil