jamexr
Jesus, I must have gotten a dud FTW Ultra. I see all these core ocs of 130+, mine can barely do 100 mhz stable, and that's only on 3dmark. If I play a game I get crashes (even with voltage slider to the max). Apart from 3d mark, are you guys testing with several games other than 3Dmark? 
 
Mine will pass 3Dmark fine with 100mhz oc on core, but games, nah, full on crashes.

I haven't actually tested +130 extensively in games, I've been experimenting with undervolting to try & lower temps & power draw, so far seems pretty good, getting 2010-2025MHz boost clocks with 950mv reading out as the voltage draw & only about 340W maximum draw, with temps peaking at 58-60C...
 
How mad would y'all be if you received a REPLACEMENT AIO from EK and it arrived looking like this:
 

 
The outer box from UPS is completely undamaged. Which means someone seriously PACKAGED IT and SHIPPED IT like that.
 
EK is very close to getting on my "never again" list.  That hole is deeper than it looks BTW, I'm not even going to open it unless they respond to my request for a paid label because I'm not paying return shipping again, telling me to open & check if it's damaged.  At this point I think I'm just gonna get a refund.

chorl
Hi, newbie here.
 
Thinking of getting this card (FTW3 ULTRA), but after reading some threads, I have two questions (and more they came if I finally purchase it):
 
- I like very much the Zero-RPM profile of these cards, if I flash new XOC Bios, will I lose it? I think if card is in "Normal" switch, it should retain this profile, but not so sure.
- Third fan control from Afterburner, is it already resolved?
 
Thanks!

Fan control in Afterburner is still super wonky, but that's on Afterburner to fix not eVGA.
 
Zero RPM mode is only available on the "Normal" BIOS, the OC BIOS (if you flip the switch to OC) does not have zero RPM mode & will bottom the fans out at 33%... You can however set a fan curve yourself in Precision X1 that lets the fans spin down to 0% when the GPU is idle, that's what I did.  There is a "normal" and "oc" XOC bios, and the same applies to them.
 
Unfortunately the current NVidia drivers (457.09) are causing fan control issues with everything, hopefully that will be resolved soon with another driver update.

Cards will boost into the 1900's without the beta bios an extra 50-150mhz isn't going to make anything really tangible in games where you'd realistically want to get a different card with ****tier customer service.

Paddy32

chorl
 
Thank you very much for your quick answer!
 
So, all the people who are using Afterburner for UV, are they having issues with their fans?
 
If I'm lucky next week I can have my card, so I'm taking into consideration all these things, for not messing up with the card, in EU stock is very limited, RMA could last forever...
 
Thanks again.

It would be sad to RMA a card because you don't know how to set a custom fan curve. It's really simple in Precision X1 :) You can set fan to turn off under 55°C. As an example with my GPU, I flashed the BIOS and put the new OC BIOS on my EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3. Then I have saved 2 profiles on Precision X1 :

- an "OC" profile: +200 Core / +1000 Mem, +100% Voltage, +118% Power, Default OC Fan Curve (which I find to be very nice). I use this profile when I'm gaming and general use of the PC. Sound of the GPU fans are barely noticeable. Idle temperature is about 33°C. (41°C idle when RTX Broadcast on, it consumes a lot)
 
- a "casual" profile: +0 Core / +0 Mem, +0% Voltage, +100% Power, Custom fan curve that turns off under 55°C then ramps up to 50%, then at 80% at 80°C. 5000ms fan reaction time. I use this profile if I'm leaving my PC on all night long running a macro, mostly on bluestacks. Idle temperature is about 42°C.

Sorry, I've been misunderstood (don't speak english natively).
 
I won't RMA a card for having bad luck in OC/UV, etc. It's the bin lottery, I would accept what dear RNGESUS gives to me. In fact, I have now a UV Strix 3090 which performs quite well with UV...But has unbearable coil fan (even with UV, 1200 platinum PSU, 14+2 VRM in motherboard), so I'm going to return it to seller.
 
That's the fabric of my nightmares, coil whine. I can expect mid range performance, don't care, but this sound, is freaking me out. That's my second RTX returned card. First one was Gigabyte Gaming OC with defective power connectors.
 
I know these FTW3 has been reported as affected quite a bit for coil whine, I only expect to get a quiet card, make some modest UV, and get my life bak. I'm really tired of this RTX launch.
 
But thank you very much for your recommendations, I'll take them if I can finally get the card.
 
Thanks!

Dabadger84

chorl
Thank you very much for your quick answer!
 
So, all the people who are using Afterburner for UV, are they having issues with their fans?
 
If I'm lucky next week I can have my card, so I'm taking into consideration all these things, for not messing up with the card, in EU stock is very limited, RMA could last forever...
 
Thanks again.

The issue with the Afterburner fan control is just that they run less than what you set it to, it's not a serious issue (for example, if I set the fan to 80% in Afterburner, it runs  at 71%.  If I set it to 86%, they run at 80%, so it's not a huge deal), and it will likely be fixed when Afterburner gets it's official update, since the Ampere stuff is still in beta, technically, I think.  You can always set a custom fan curve there, or do what I'm doing & fight with Precision X1 & Afterburner to control fans and also have an undervolt curve.
 
The real fan issue right now is the one caused by NVidia drivers making fan 1 & 2 not work properly with custom fan curves, I.E. they're spinning up & down at 0%, running a lower speed than the 3rd fan etc, but that will be fixed in the next NVidia driver update (hopefully), and that happens with custom fan curves in Precision X1 and Afterburner both.  Simple way to avoid that is set the BIOS switch on the card to OC mode (which defaults the fans to 33% when idle) and set the fans to "Auto" in Precision or Afterburner, letting the BIOS control the fans, then they all run at the same speed.
 
If you want to avoid the second issue, just don't use the 457.09 drivers, use the previous one until they release the next one that fixes the fan issue.  The Afterburner issue we just have to wait on them to fix.  Neither of those should result in anything bad happening to the card though, as long as you're keeping an eye on temperatures as much as one can, it should be fine... and keep in mind, NVidia cards will throttle when they hit their Temperature Target, so the risk of actually damaging the card because of a fan issue is very low.
 

Thanks again, I'll stick to that once I grab one of these (difficult task, at least here in EU).
 
PS: Newbie to the forum aswell, is there any kind of "Thanks" button or something?

Here's my experience, it's not extensive, this is from a standard user just playing around with the XOC BIOS on the card. 

I seem to have dropped in performance from the "OC" switch BIOS(original one) when going to the XOC Beta BIOS, from this forum thread. Let me try to explain it. 

I am using an in game benchmark and from actual playing experience to determine my early findings. The game is The Division 2. I made changes to the graphics to full ultra, DX11(12 kept crashing), Vsync off, 1440p. My FPS avg with the original OC Switch BIOS was 127 within the benchmark and in game actual gameplay, around 120 to 125. My X1 settings are as follows: 500 VRAM offset(10k mhz), 100 core clock(maxes to 2070 in benchmarks and in game), 100 on the voltage, and temp and power target sliders in-sync all the way to the right. 

With the XOC Beta Bios, no changes to the in game graphics and settings, is now 88 FPS inside the benchmark and around 85 in game actual gameplay. My X1 overclock settings are the same as above. 

For sh and giggles, I did an almost default run(0 mem offset, 0 core clock, 0 voltage, 118%/91*C pwr target and temp slider all the way up. My results were exactly the same as mentioned above. Umm, what? 

Here is the rest of my specs of the gaming PC: 

8700k OC to 5.1ghz(AIO)
32gb G.Skill Trident RGB RAM @ 3200mhz
3080 FTW3 Ultra(mentioned above)
Game is loaded on a WD Black NVMe 500gb SSD
MB: Z370 Asus Rog Strix E-gaming
PSU: 850w EVGA Nova G+ 80+ gold cert

I don't think this beta BIOS is for me. I am losing performance in a game that I play often. I haven't tested any other games but I can't imagine the results to be that different. 

My million dollar question is: How can I flash the Stock BIOS back to the GPU so I can re-adjust my OC settings on the OC bios switch to where it was BEFORE I loaded the Beta XOC BIOS? 

I appreciate anyone reading and dropping their feedback on my comments above. 

Edit 1: I'm leaning towards my PSU isn't beefy enough for this BETA BIOS. I think with the voltage slider all the way up to 100, it's taxing it to it's brink. I'm guessing here. Please don't roast me. I can't think of any other reason as to why performance would go down with the same OC settings as I had prior to loading up the XOC BETA BIOS. I'm perplexed. Ok, I think I'm done...

Dabadger84
So now instead of PwrLmt on GPUz the limited factor I'm getting is VRel, I'm new to using GPUz to figure out why my GPU is being limited, what does that one mean? Voltage Regulation? or what?
It also only got up to 400W power draw during Port Royal on the OC BIOS which used to get up to 420W on the same settings.  I understand it's a beta, just giving my initial experience feedback.
Should I reinstall Drivers after the BIOS update just to be on the safe side?

vRel = Voltage reliability --> is the cards performance limiting issue

I've been gaming with mine at +130 on the core clock, and +800 on the memory with no issues. Been playing mainly Baldur's Gate 3 and Control, so far. It ran Timespy at +177 without issue IIRC.

chorl
Thanks again, I'll stick to that once I grab one of these (difficult task, at least here in EU).
 
PS: Newbie to the forum aswell, is there any kind of "Thanks" button or something?

There is, but I'm not sure how to do it lol
 

schmak01
 
I'm with you on this, the undervolting on this card is amazing.  I am getting better, more stable clocks at .900 mV @ 1950 and .950 mV at 2010 than on stock.  the prior my temps never get to 60 C with a 45% fan, the latter they get to 65 with the same curve.  On stock, my frequency would jump all around between 1890-2010 which is annoying as heck, gives me lower 1%'s in FPS, where as with the undervolt I am stable and constant on frequency.  I think my average FPS is slightly lower, 3-5 FPS, but my bottom 1%'s are way higher, it's my top 1%'s that are lower, and that gives a smoother experience with cooler temps. 

I've been gaming at 900mv @ 2010MHz & not having any issues, did some GTA V single player, bit of Watch Dogs 1 & Port Royal, also did about an hour of Mafia 1's remake.  The overall performance does seem much smoother & the frequency is definitely jumping around less, I'm essentially at 1995-2010 constantly.

How can I flash the old BIOS? The original OC, please?

With what software do you undervolt ?

EVGA_JacobF
 
Due to many users request, have a new BETA BIOS that increases the maximum Power Target. This BIOS is only intended for the extreme overclocking user and does not have any other changes. Please note the following:
 

• This update will increase the power consumption while overclocking, and is recommended you have adequate cooling and power (850w+ Gold minimum) when using this.
• EVGA does not guarantee any performance increase or overclock while using this BIOS update.

 
Any other questions or concerns will be answered in this forum thread only. Please post below your results and feedback!
 
 
BIOS Instructions (Windows Installation):

• Download the correct .zip file below for your graphics card below.
• Extract the files to a location on disk.
• Make sure no programs are running in the background, and double click Update.exe
• Press "Y" to begin the update.
• DO NOT TURN OFF POWER OR RESET DURING THE UPDATE PROCESS!
• After update, restart PC.

 
EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 FTW3

• EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 FTW3 ULTRA – BIOS 1 (Normal) |BIOS 2 (OC)
• EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 FTW3 – BIOS 1 (Normal) |BIOS 2 (OC)

NOTE: There are 2 BIOS's, one is for the BIOS when switched to the normal stock position, the other if switched to the OC position

 
When are these going to be finialized?

Safe to swap from OC to Normal bios while PC is running or do I need to power off before I change between the two?

Installed OC bios. Passed port royal with +115/900. Many games are crashing on this settings, so I found +105 is stable for most games except GTA V and metro. For GTA +90 is stable and for Metro +75. Waiting for watercool heatkiller, hope this helps make it stable everywhere with +120/135

Even with 0 on memory can't pass anything on 120 core, Metro is still crashing on +90. Funny thing is that Metro is not consuming even 400w of power. Seems like I lost in silicon lottery)) Tried undervolting, 1935 @ 0.962v, 1980 @ 1v - extremely bad, so I went to overclocking instead. Really hoping waterblock will change it, and I could clock higher.