Son a a bi! 3 hardware stors latter and all i could get was m3 x10 have to shorten every one with old school hack and back nut off. See you guys in 7 hours!!! 
 

Scarlet-Tech
M3x6(or 8) if I am not mistaken @antandbetty

acebound
Screw size M3x6 with a .031 thick plastic washer both painted black 9 req. my local hardware had no black.
Drill clearance hole out with .125 dia. drill, assemble enjoy!

acebound
Screw size M3x6 with a .031 thick plastic washer both painted black 9 req. my local hardware had no black.
Drill clearance hole out with .125 dia. drill, assemble enjoy!

Hmm I need a drill press, Don't think I can just hand drill it. Does this affect the backplate mount with the air cooler back on? I believe it shouldn't.

I just want to state.. Two tubes stand between the GPU loop and completion.. One of them I wasted probably 10 feet of acrylic trying to get the bend right.  The last try, I got 2 out of 3 perfect bends.. the 3rd developed a fold and then cracked.. I really wish that Performance would get the PETG tubing in....  This is a very very basic loop for right now, but I am going to use soft tube in the last two areas just to get past putting this together, and then test the loop.  
 
Basically, one of these two runs has become the bane of this build so far.

antandbetty
not at all. i just did it by hand and you don't need a press. all you are doing is slightly increasing the holes for the m3 screws to fit through....
 

nycx360

acebound
Screw size M3x6 with a .031 thick plastic washer both painted black 9 req. my local hardware had no black.
Drill clearance hole out with .125 dia. drill, assemble enjoy!

Hmm I need a drill press, Don't think I can just hand drill it. Does this affect the backplate mount with the air cooler back on? I believe it shouldn't.

Alright next time i flush the loop. I will be doing the back plates. Isnt it possible to just use the ek washers?

Hi all,
Some testing tonight not bad for water I'm pleased!  With both switches on volt meter reads 1.34v out of the gate. Open and use Classified Controller things don't match up. I set 1.4v in controller and volt meter reads 1.52v which is what it took to run results below. Temps never went over 39 Celsius "Ice water". I'm useing the K|NGP|N kpex2c bios it has been solid for me. I did alot of testing at 1650 core 1000 mem with volt meter at 1.42v this will be my game settings. The water block has definitely stepped this cards game up from air cooling.....Cheers
 


http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4732322

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4732738
 

I am only a few steps away from completing this thing... I need to plump the CPU.  Sadly, I can not use the CPU Block that I wanted, because the rigid tubing fittings are in the way.  I had to modify my EK block bracket to fit in the area.  Hopefully I will have some good news tomorrow. 

I don't think the bios is the issue. Vincent has multiple bios options on Kingpin forums. You can also find every bios on OCN as well, and since they have made multiple, and haven't released one in a while, that usually means the bios is complete. Some drivers don't agree with all cards. It happens.

acebound
Hi all,
Some testing tonight not bad for water I'm pleased!  With both switches on volt meter reads 1.34v out of the gate. Open and use Classified Controller things don't match up. I set 1.4v in controller and volt meter reads 1.52v which is what it took to run results below. Temps never went over 39 Celsius "Ice water". I'm useing the K|NGP|N kpex2c bios it has been solid for me. I did alot of testing at 1650 core 1000 mem with volt meter at 1.42v this will be my game settings. The water block has definitely stepped this cards game up from air cooling.....Cheers
 
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4732322
 
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4732738
 

1650Mhz, nice gaming clocks.  Do your remember what your best stable air clocks and volts were and bios used?
 
Thanks
 
 

Scarlet-Tech
I WIN I WIN I WIN!!!!!!!!!!
 
Guide coming, but for realsies!!!! ONE-OFF RIGHT NOW!!!!
 

Looks awesome!!! Why didn't you get the piece that link all the cards?

Scarlet-Tech
because it interferes with the Probe It Connection on the bottom card.  Since I monitor my cards very closely while overclocking them, I want full access.  EK refuses to make the Plexi Parallel terminal with the inlet/outlet port on the bottom of the terminal, only on the right side covering the probe it.
 

Ah, I understand completely. Still looks awesome.

Ah hmm. I was thinking about that when I pulled the stock cooler of that an LED could go. Good job though, would of had no effects on my black blocks lol. 

Scarlet-Tech
Nope, the Acetal would have giggles and carried on, lol. I like Acetal, but this was hard to pass up. It took a lot of patience, and it is fully reversible for RMA purposes.

I'm waiting to see how you did this. I'm in the process of drying my board and such.

SS

First and Foremost, this is a minor modification that is fully reversible.  If you damage your cooler, LED strip, waterblock, ego, pride, joy, or anything in the process, I take no responsibility.  I enjoy modifying things, so I decided to make the EKWB for the K|ngp|n RGB.
 
Tools needed:
 
Jewelers screwdriver set, Scotch Double sided tape,a Dremel, no care for your waterblock warranty, patience, 980 K|ngp|n and EKWB plexi tops.  
 

 
Start by fully removing the air cooler: Notice on the bottom right that there is 1 screw exposed, remove it.
 

 
Remove the two screws on the back side of the cooler:
 

 
On the front side, lift the black cling on the far left side using extreme caution not to break the black cover or cut the cooler shroud, remove the screw underneath it:
 

 
Once the shroud is off, you will find 3 LED strips.  You are aiming for the long strip, (it is locating between the edge of the shroud and the lettered plate here.  Remove the two screws on the bottom side and loosen the third one just slightly:
 
  
 
 
You will find that is has tape holding the wires in place and the led strip.  Gently remove it and not tear it for reinstall/rma purposes (no picture)
 
Grab the PCB and water block, and set the block to where you can look at the PCB through the block, draw a box around LED_BOTTOM: (no box pictured :-P)

 
I apologize now, I forgot to take a picture of this step in the process...  Dremel the underside of the block to make room for the LED plug.. Only dremel the LED_bottom spot.. the others are too short to utilize efficiently, and you can see how ridiculously amazing they look with only the long strip.  Once you have enough room for the plug to comfortably fit without flexing the PCB, clean everything throughly to remove any plexi that is left, then do the full block installation per the instructions. You can leave the LED installed during this part.  This is post install:
 

 
Grab the Double sided scotch tape and slap it on the block.  use a good knife, and trim the excess double sided tape at this point, or it will only collect a ton of dust at an alarming rate.. Since you won't see it, make it as close to the plexi as possible, but keep your knife on the nickel, since it creates a straight edge to trim the tape. Stick the LED strip to the tape... That is very important. :-p try to get the cables taught, but do not pull them too much.
 

 
Voila!
 

 
Go reap SUPER SEXY rewards!!!
 

antandbetty
What a AWESOME MOD! 
They look freaking great!!!!!!!
 

Thank you :-D

acebound
Scarlet-Tech,
Hats off to you and thanks for the guide too

Absolutely. I will be trying to identify a way for the pumps and cpu block. I think they will be powered by the aquaero 6 though.