I have 2 independent loops. My 5930K with stock settings runs around 8-10C warmer than my 980ti Classified according to EVGA Precision.
 
CPU loop has older XSPC RX360 rad with XSPC waterblock D5 pump, runs around 37-39C
 
GPU loop has a newer XSPC RX480 rad with EK waterblock and D5 pump, runs around 29-30C
 
I have not had time to take the loop apart, but I just wanted to know if 5930K's run a little warm on idle. At 100% stress it does not go above 55-60C.

Do you have CPU speedstep enabled? Yes
Do you have CPU enhanced C halt states enabled? Yes
What is the CPU frequency and voltage when it is idle?  .702V to 1.071V speed according to CPU-z. The speed jumps between 3600Mhz and 1200Mhz, but most of the time it is at 3600Mhz
 
What should I change?
Where are CPU power saving features?
 
EDIT #1 I recently updated the bios to 2.02, with no change in temps
EDIT #2 Went to power settings in control panel and turned it from performance to balanced. Now it stays at .707V and 1200Mhz, but did not change the temps.


 

 
thank you for your help

What fans? What config push or pull or push/pull? and at what rpm do the fans run at idle? Is it the Storm or Storm Pro? What injector plate are you using? The block has a specific inlet and outlet port have you connected it properly? And finally there are two ways to mount the block standard and goofy which way have you mounted yours? Goofy is recommended for 2011-V3

Nice looking build you do nice work and EVGA should be proud.
I can't comment on EVGA bios setting because I haven't used their boards since 780i so I'll leave that to some others.
As pretty as it is I think you could benefit from the goofy mounting method I know tearing it back apart doesn't sound appealing but it sounds like you need all the help you can get. Give THIS article a read it will explain standard vs Goofy and also illuminate the injector plate (nozzel) issue I mentioned.
Mounting pressure and TIM all play a vital role with results so read his very detailed dissertation and take it all in then apply the knowledge with your build.
If you have good air flow from the front of the case then your setup is OK but I always prefer drawing cold air into a rad via pull or push but with a spacer/shroud and in most cases push & pull combined with one rad one loop.
I assume the rad for the GPU os in the front of the case and it's getting the benefits of the cold air from outside the case hence the good performance of the GPU however it is dumping the hot air into the case and therefore the top rad as well hence the poor performance of the CPU loop.
Quick fix change the flow of the top fans to pull cool air in if I'm correct about the front the this will create a condition known as Positive Case Pressure. If both are filtered it has the side benefit of less dust in the case as the positive pressure seeks any outlet like expansion slots etc vs the alternative (negative case pressure) which would be sucking air from any crack letting dust in. Clearly you see the difference but it's a fine line either way and you must monitor and tweak it so it works with your case. What you don't want to happen is having so much positive pressure there are not enough open area to exhaust causing the fan to under perform. We buy high static pressure fans because they are optimized to improve air flow through an obstruction like a radiator. This is why I said they are many things to consider not the list of which are the components to be used.
Now about the fans: You have selected the wrong fan for the job it has 1/2 the static pressure and air flow of it's brethren the SP120 High Performance PWM fan (High Static) pressure. Yes it is quieter but using PWM signal it is only loud when you need it to be and you'll likey have a headset on at the point ;).
There are other good choices out there for quiet high static pressure fans and I suggest you head over to vsg28 blog "Thermal Bench" and give his fan reviews a read.
I think all you are lacking is a bit of knowledge because it appears you have the skills to put it all together nicely. GL
 
 

one more thing i also have 2 x 980tis on a dedicated loop they idle at about 29c usually. The gpu temp has nothing to do with the cpu temp and that chip runs hot even at idle. When i had this same gear in one loop together the idle temps were about the same. The difference in seperating the loops only showed during load scenarios. build is in my signature and mods rigs if you want to see how mine is setup. 
 

What speed are you running your D5 pump ? 
 
I run mine @ Max speed on a single loop including 2-360 x 120 Rads. , 2 TitanX SC & 4970 - signature build

Only thing left is TIM, air bubbles and airflow

You flushed your system with vinegar and distilled water & rinsed with more water ?

Oh, that's quite a bad combination. Distilled water, silver kill coil, and PTnuke will nuke your waterblock plating and corrode/oxidize your loop. All those distilled water, silver kill coil, and PTnuke recommendations were a fad or thing of the past. Lots of trouble was discovered.

You should not use a silver kill coil and you should not use PTnuke. I would even recommend against distilled water unless you want to mix up your own ingredients. You should buy coolant specifically designed for computer water cooling with anti corrosive additives.

Yes, the problem is very much the silver reaction with the nickel and copper in your loop. Additionally, PTnuke rapidly accelerates the process. Your deionized water fills up with ions quickly. Then it is no different than distilled water. It's a bad combination and you should stop. Google is your friend.

The introduction of additional metals into the system (silver, etc.) or the use of ionic algaecides (copper sulfate, etc.) even in minor concentrations can trigger the corrosion processes.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop...osion_Report_Final.pdf

There is nothing wrong with distilled or deionized water, it's just that you need to also add the correct kind of anticorrosive agent (I forgot which type but I know that it isn't the type in auto coolant) and you need to stop using silver and PTnuke. It's just easier to buy a good premade computer coolant and then experience safety and reliability instead of getting ahold of the correct chemicals and mixing it up yourself and trying to not make a mistake you will regret.

The tests showed that only coolants with anti-corrosive additive keep water blocks clean, corrosion free and easy tmo maintain in the long run. Using other coolants, such as distilled water, with or without algicide, will result in staining, pitting and ultimately corrosion of the blocks.

http://www.ekwaterblocks....S/EK_STAINING_TEST.pdf