AMDSY3D
 I put it back to stock and now it doesn't disconnect/reconnect. Is it that the thermal paste isn't good, or is it a manufacturing defect?

Not sure I understand your question ?
 
The factory TIM is very good according to the reviews
 
We would need more details about you OC and benchmark software to even speculate on your results
 
RIG specs ?
OS ?
Voltages
Room Temp
Case
Fans & RPM

75 is way to hot there man. That's when your card is giving you a warning it's too much stress. Reroute your wires, change the airflow in your case, and turn your fans up. You might even have to reduce power to it.

.

AMDSY3D

NvidiaFiend
75 is way to hot there man. That's when your card is giving you a warning it's too much stress. Reroute your wires, change the airflow in your case, and turn your fans up. You might even have to reduce power to it.

Sorry, not sure if you mean GPU by "card" or CPU or something else. GPU is at a steady clock with precision showing 2075MHz core clock under load with memory clock at 4700MHz. But if you're talking about CPU, like I said above, I just went with what I've read on other forums. There are 2 sites I followed, Tomshardware and Overclocking guide, won't let me post links as I'm new. But they have temperature charts.

No, I meant cpu. On tomshardware it says overclocking this cpu had some troubles:

The overclocked Core i5-8600K sees sporadic and unavoidable load peaks that mess with its average.

AMDSY3D
What do you recommend? Imo running this CPU at stock is kind of a waste of 400CAD. My mobo when it automatically puts it to 4.5GHz, also reaches same temps. Barely any temp differences at 4.5, 4.7, and 5. Its just that Coffee Lake already runs pretty hot in general.

I'd recommend to buy a different cpu if you want to clock it to those temps or need better performance. Sorry you paid a bunch for it but resale is good.

AMDSY3D
I chose this CPU over the 8700K because of the fact you can clock it pretty high and I saved $175. Rip I guess. Thing is tho I don't think the CPU ever runs at 100%. Might as well wait till next gen then.

There's nothing wrong with your CPU and the overclock, there's A LOT of misinformation on this topic. You should usually look for advice on forums like overclock . net where we have a more advanced user base.
 
Anyway:
- 75 C is totally fine, Gen 8 TJMAX is 100 and anything below 85 (on stress test / full load) is fine.
- As you saying the PUMP led is turning off you may be having some issues regarding AIO Control on your Bios. What reader did you plugged the PUMP on your motherboard?
 
Check how is your BIOS configured to handle AIO_PUMP speed. I don't know much about GigaByte but the CLC pump is 3 pin, so you don't want it to be controlled by the motherboard, just set 100% on bios and on EVGA Flow Control keep it at 100% or a little below (like 2700 rpm, the max is 2900) if you want silence.
 
There is probably some alert control on your BIOs that is turning the WC PUMP off above some temperature, because I understood your fans are also turning off so I imagine you have them connected on the WC PUMP. I personally don't have my CLC fans plugged on the rad/pump, I have them plugged on the motherboard CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT on my Maximus X Hero and I use Asus AI Suite 3 to control them.
 
This is the only way I can keep them from going 100% if I reach 75C, which is ridiculously loud and unnecessary. (on the official CLC topic I posted a detailed configuration on page 14)
 
Anyway, first thing is to check what reader you have your PUMP connected on your MB and how the temperature monitor in bios is handling speed on this particular reader.
 
 
 

Yes I have a 8700K with a CLC 280mm.
 
So you have your PUMP on the HPWR Pump on your motherboard? I don't know about gigabyte but on Asus this reader is for close loop pumps, not the AIO ones. On Asus we have an AIO reader where I just leave it at 100%, the HPWR pump reader has more amperes and voltage so idk what could happen if using it.
 
Try to read your motherboard manual and see if there isn't a specific reader for the AIO pump.
 
If not that, you can try removing EVGA Flow and deleting the folders, then make sure on Bios you don't have any controlling thing on the reader that has the pump connected and test again just to make sure it's not EVGA Flow that is shutting down your pump. Then you can try installing the latest version again (2.0.5) and see if it's solved.
 
If not I would contact EVGA support as you may have a faulty WC.

One thing to make sure is that the pump is plugged into a connector on the motherboard that isn't trying to throttle down the speed. You shouldn't be seeing temps that high and the disconnect and lights turning off means the USB connection has been lost which is a sign that the computer is crashing. The pump is plugged into a fan header not USB. I know some motherboards have a connection labeled for CPU fan but often times that throttles it down but often you can disable that throttling down in the bios. Do not disable CPU overheat protection though since you want that.

AMDSY3D
What's the difference between AIO and closed looped coolers? Isn't this CLC 280 a closed loop? Hence CLC = closed loop cooler? And it's under closed looped in the downloads section? I'm not sure, just asking.
 
Also, my mobo has "SYS_FAN5_PUMP (System Fan/Water Cooling Pump Header)", "HPWR_FAN_PUMP (3 Amp Fan/Water Cooling Pump Header)" and "CPU_OPT (Water Cooling CPU Fan Header)". This is why I'm confused lol. Copied that from the manual. However the reason i chose HPWR is because under HPWR is says "The speed control function requires the use of a fan with fan speed control design. The header also provides speed control for a water cooling pump, refer to Chapter 2, "BIOS Setup," "M.I.T.," for more information.". Same thing under sysfan5, but not under CPU OPT.
 
Thanks for your help.

As I mentioned, I don't know about Gigabyte readers. You can try another reader just to make sure, but seems that one is ok for using your pump.
 
Anyway, you need to do some testing, and my first suggestion is that you remove any overclock you have on the system and do a stress test and see if it's still disconnecting. Did you already tested this?