THere are several issues in this thread and what I have to say will not address any one of them. Instead I offer a blanket reminder which could mitigate the problems several of you have. There are no garantees but this is still a good practice when things go south with electronics.
 
Take those cars out (use caution for static discharge) and carefully inspect them for any breaks around solder connections on both side of the PCB board. Look for fractures in the solder joints, or broken connections.
 
While they are out inspect each electrolytic capacitor (can shapped, made of metal, with plastic coverings) looking to see if there is any leakage of fluids. These caps are often filled with fish oil. A bad cap may show signs of buldging at the top very similar to a bad can or jar of something in the pantry, this frequently happens prior to bursting at the scored seams seen on the top of many of these capacitors or leakage around the bottom of the caps.
 
Look for any burned areas or components. Resistors tend to burn when they go bad and with surface mount components I have seen resistors so badly burned nothing was left behind except for burn indications where they once were located. These tiny burn marks can be difficult to notice and I woulsuggest using a magnifying glass or loop to do these inspections.
 
If you find oany of these things you can repair it with a soldering iron and if needed a few inexpensive parts. If you have heated air soldering systems use extream caution, components often are not able to take sustained heat or heat over specific temperatures. Lookup the data sheet for the part number you are working on to find out about heat tolerances. You amy need to use kapton tape or other means to protect surrounding components.
 
Should you or a friend have a multimeter you can check resistor ohms and if you have an ESR or LCR meter you can check capacitors sometime in circuit depending on the meter you have. Be certain to discharge capacitors prior to testing them this way.
 
Good luck and in this case I hope you do find some of these things because you may be able to salvadge your card and have it running like new again. So take your time inspecting things, if you think there might be something bad try to get an even closer look and if still in doubt resolder the connection for suspect components.
 
EDITED TO CLEAN UP A FEW BLIMISHES...

Maximus Panin
There is a EVGA GeForce GTX 550 Ti graphics card with firmware 70.26.20.00.52.
What is the latest firmware update for this model and do I need to be updated ?

We need the actual model number to help you at all.

 

wmmillsWe need the actual model number to help you at all.

 

SajinIf you aren't having problems then you don't need to update your vbios.

It happens that video editing programs do not recognize it.

wmmillsTheres a newer bios from september 2011

I found such versions:
 
GTX 550 Ti 1024 MB 2012-10-31 70.26.43.00.50 PCI-E    952/1089 GDDR5
GTX 550 Ti 1024 MB 2013-01-10 70.26.43.00.50 PCI-E    900/1026 GDDR5
 
Do not fit ?

wmmillsIf you screw up the flash the card is bricked

I did not do anything with the card, I am working on it now.

wmmillsstable mobo/ram/cpu setup on your rig if you attempt it

If you mean overclocking the memory, processor, graphics card - no, everything works by default.

wmmillsGood luck and let us know what happens so others may benefit.

Ok.

EVGA made the gtx 960 right? I'm not seeing much info on it.