Lookin' like the $5k setup it is. lol

Clovis559
 
That monitor omg so lucky! I’m always tempted to get one

https://smile.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-49-inch-Odyssey-FreeSync-LC49G95TSSNXZA/dp/B088HH6LW5/ there's no time like the present :-P
 
This build is a monument to my full "YOLO" mode theme for this year.

Any links to the thermal pads used. I tried searching GeLid thermal pads on Amazon but came up with nothing.
Also 3mm seems really thick. Isn't 2 mm the right size?

pclausen

Dabadger84
 
https://smile.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-49-inch-Odyssey-FreeSync-LC49G95TSSNXZA/dp/B088HH6LW5/ there's no time like the present :-P

 
Damn, I paid $1,399 just 3 weeks ago for that monitor.  Should have waited a few more weeks I guess for a $150 savings.  I tried to see if Amazon would do a price match, but it doesn't appear so unfortunately.
 
I like the monitor but am somewhat disappointed by the vertical resolution being only 1440 pixels.  I came from a Samsung curved 49" 4k monitor with a full vertical resolution of 2160 pixels.  I really miss that when working on spreadsheets and browsing web pages.  I still have the other Samsung and now use it exclusively on my "work" workstation.
 
The perfect monitor would be 5120 x 2160.  Maybe there will be a "G11" or something one day, lol.

 
Almost: https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=5120x2160&qid=1613930833&sr=8-2
60hz tho 🤔

pclausen
Yeah but 34" though and 60Hz like you said.
 
LG is coming out with one that has potential:
 
https://www.werd.com/51054/lg-has-created-a-curved-49-inch-ultrawide-monitor/
 
But no real specs released yet.

I dunno about that article, it claims 5120x 2160 at 49” 32:9...
but 5120x2160 is not 32:9, it’s 21:9. So in a 49”, that’s gonna be a really... weird... monitor... Massive in height, to be uncomfortable to use...

Back more on the topic at hand, I ordered some of these:
 
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YWL7DFS/ With thermal tape https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZY1JNJV/ and some higher conductivity pads: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CGL7MLN/ 
 
Plan is to remove what I have on there now, put the new pads & heatsinks over the VRAM areas (on top of the backplate) only, then use the Ayunni 1mm & more of the new heatsinks/some of the old ones, in combination with the thermal tape, to actually STICK stuff to the backplate so it won't slide around.
 
Having messed with the backplate fan A LOT during the liquid loop install, I've had to readjust the current heatsinks a few times now, because those pads are doing absolutely nothing in terms of stickingness.
 
I may just revert all the heatsinks to thermal tape, haven't decided yet.  It seems like, even though the thermal tape had "lower" heat transfer stated, it did a better job in most areas I've replaced with 1mm thermal pads.
I also have some 0.5mm Ayunni pads incoming to try & further thin down the pads between the backplate & the heatsinks, in areas where it's actually flat.  We'll see how it goes.
 
The new pads, tape & heatsinks should be here Tuesday or Wednesday.
 
I think I'm just going to basically cover the entire area of the backplate that has heat-producing components with heatsinks.  Like, everywhere, from the front of the card, all the way back past the other VRM areas.
 
The new heatsinks are quite a bit larger than what I have now, but they're the same height (almost, 11mm vs 10mm), so they should work well together, and it'll allow me to get rid of what little silver heatsinks I still have on there, if I want to:
 

 
But for now, I'm still in this configuration, just with 1mm Ayunni "6W/mK" pads between the VRAM chip areas & the heatsinks, everything else is still the stock thermal tape that came on the other heatsinks:
 

Dabadger84
Back more on the topic at hand, I ordered some of these:
 
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YWL7DFS/ With thermal tape https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZY1JNJV/ and some higher conductivity pads: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CGL7MLN/ 
 
Plan is to remove what I have on there now, put the new pads & heatsinks over the VRAM areas (on top of the backplate) only, then use the Ayunni 1mm & more of the new heatsinks/some of the old ones, in combination with the thermal tape, to actually STICK stuff to the backplate so it won't slide around.
 
Having messed with the backplate fan A LOT during the liquid loop install, I've had to readjust the current heatsinks a few times now, because those pads are doing absolutely nothing in terms of stickingness.
 
I may just revert all the heatsinks to thermal tape, haven't decided yet.  It seems like, even though the thermal tape had "lower" heat transfer stated, it did a better job in most areas I've replaced with 1mm thermal pads.
I also have some 0.5mm Ayunni pads incoming to try & further thin down the pads between the backplate & the heatsinks, in areas where it's actually flat.  We'll see how it goes.
 
The new pads, tape & heatsinks should be here Tuesday or Wednesday.
 
I think I'm just going to basically cover the entire area of the backplate that has heat-producing components with heatsinks.  Like, everywhere, from the front of the card, all the way back past the other VRM areas.
 
The new heatsinks are quite a bit larger than what I have now, but they're the same height (almost, 11mm vs 10mm), so they should work well together, and it'll allow me to get rid of what little silver heatsinks I still have on there, if I want to:
 

 
But for now, I'm still in this configuration, just with 1mm Ayunni "6W/mK" pads between the VRAM chip areas & the heatsinks, everything else is still the stock thermal tape that came on the other heatsinks:
 

Oooo that's a good price for that 20pcs of larger heatsinks. I ordered myself a few also.
 
I'm curious though, how do you plan on using these with that thermal tape AND thermal pads? For my heatsinks, I just plan on using this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PSWX2XQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which is double sided adhesive thermal pad that is .5mm thick. I figure using this between the little black heatsinks and the backplate would be good. So I was curious who you were to incorporate the tape.
 
Also, I setup my KP card last night on a test bench to do some testing and I noticed the GPU side heatsink (not the block itself) is much larger and better than the solution on the 3080 FTW3 Hybrid cards. I haven't torn this card down, but I would wager on the KP the orange heatsink makes good contact with the memory chips, but I noticed increasing the card's onboard fan had a big impact on the non-GPU thermals. So I am thinking I wont even tear my card down and re-do the thermal pads on the GPU side, and only do it on the backplate side.

vulcZ
Hey Badger any chance you took pictures of the card's GPU assembly? I'm curious to see what the waterblock and GPU-side heatsinks look like with the shroud removed. Really I'm curious to see how much memory contact there is, and if there's any room for memory cooling improvements outside of reapplying the thermal pads. Thanks!

I haven't messed with the face-side of the card at all.  The heatsinks on the card's GPU-die side don't contact the memory as far as I understand it, that is still done via a copper plate that contacts the VRAM on that side & is thermal pasted to the coldplate of the GPU die block.  I'm too paranoid to risk taking the card apart fully & having to redo the putty/clean it thoroughly, I've only messed with the backplate side.
 
Wish I had seen that "double sided adhesive thermal pad" stuff earlier, that would've saved me this irritation of the stuff I currently have on there not staying in place.  Might have to buy some of that myself.
 
I'm probably just going to redo the stuff with thermal tape for now, as it seems without "pressure" or stickiness, having pads instead of the tape on the backplate-to-heatsinks interface isn't performing any better.

vulcZ

Dabadger84

vulcZ
Hey Badger any chance you took pictures of the card's GPU assembly? I'm curious to see what the waterblock and GPU-side heatsinks look like with the shroud removed. Really I'm curious to see how much memory contact there is, and if there's any room for memory cooling improvements outside of reapplying the thermal pads. Thanks!

I haven't messed with the face-side of the card at all.  The heatsinks on the card's GPU-die side don't contact the memory as far as I understand it, that is still done via a copper plate that contacts the VRAM on that side & is thermal pasted to the coldplate of the GPU die block.  I'm too paranoid to risk taking the card apart fully & having to redo the putty/clean it thoroughly, I've only messed with the backplate side.
 
Wish I had seen that "double sided adhesive thermal pad" stuff earlier, that would've saved me this irritation of the stuff I currently have on there not staying in place.  Might have to buy some of that myself.
 
I'm probably just going to redo the stuff with thermal tape for now, as it seems without "pressure" or stickiness, having pads instead of the tape on the backplate-to-heatsinks interface isn't performing any better.

Aw okay, so it sounds like it's exactly as it's done with the 3080 FTW3 Hybrid. Meaning, the whole copper plate physically touching the waterblock using thermal paste thing. I had assumed the KP card had a better implementation since the memory is way more sensitive to increased fan speeds. On the 3080 FTW3, not so much.
 
So I'm thinking I wont touch the front of the card either. It's crazy the memory thermal improvements from just messing with the backplate, wow. I'm taking this pretty seriously, I even purchased a slim fan (https://www.amazon.com/gp...s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) just to cool the backplate lol. Now I just need to figure out how to physically attach it to the heatsinks when I apply those. I'm thinking maybe a hot glue gun, but we'll see.

 Exactly, I actually used the plate from a 3090 hybrid kit on a Kingpin. It's identical. I left the front side memory alone too. it cools nicely.

Dabadger84

vulcZ

Dabadger84

vulcZ
Hey Badger any chance you took pictures of the card's GPU assembly? I'm curious to see what the waterblock and GPU-side heatsinks look like with the shroud removed. Really I'm curious to see how much memory contact there is, and if there's any room for memory cooling improvements outside of reapplying the thermal pads. Thanks!

I haven't messed with the face-side of the card at all.  The heatsinks on the card's GPU-die side don't contact the memory as far as I understand it, that is still done via a copper plate that contacts the VRAM on that side & is thermal pasted to the coldplate of the GPU die block.  I'm too paranoid to risk taking the card apart fully & having to redo the putty/clean it thoroughly, I've only messed with the backplate side.
 
Wish I had seen that "double sided adhesive thermal pad" stuff earlier, that would've saved me this irritation of the stuff I currently have on there not staying in place.  Might have to buy some of that myself.
 
I'm probably just going to redo the stuff with thermal tape for now, as it seems without "pressure" or stickiness, having pads instead of the tape on the backplate-to-heatsinks interface isn't performing any better.

Aw okay, so it sounds like it's exactly as it's done with the 3080 FTW3 Hybrid. Meaning, the whole copper plate physically touching the waterblock using thermal paste thing. I had assumed the KP card had a better implementation since the memory is way more sensitive to increased fan speeds. On the 3080 FTW3, not so much.
 
So I'm thinking I wont touch the front of the card either. It's crazy the memory thermal improvements from just messing with the backplate, wow. I'm taking this pretty seriously, I even purchased a slim fan (https://www.amazon.com/gp...s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) just to cool the backplate lol. Now I just need to figure out how to physically attach it to the heatsinks when I apply those. I'm thinking maybe a hot glue gun, but we'll see.

I think this is more of a PCB heatsoak being better on the Kingpin than the regular Hybrid cards.  The Kingpin PCB has "more gold" in it and is a bit thicker, resulting in lower temps, then the cooling on the VRMs areas is much better, again resulting in lower temps, further lowering PCB heatsoak, then on top of that, I'm doing additional thermal pads on the backplate side, then the heatsinks on the back plate... again reducing temps.
 
In general the Kingpin's cooling is just plain better than the regular Hybrid cards, not withstanding the fact that the Kingpin has a 360mm radiator.  That's clearly evidenced by the fact that some of the VRM temps on this thing, out of the box, were outright "cool" in comparison to what I saw on the 3090 FTW3 Hybrid:
 
FTW3 Hybrid:

Notice, that's with a pretty heavy undervolt, 1980MHz @ 950mV
Kingpin:

2130MHz @ 1025mV - The VRM temps are just plain better across the board.  The sensors are clearly in different areas, I.E. the FTW3's hotspot is PWR4, whereas the Kingpin's hotspot is PWR3, and the memory temps are a bit higher (that's stock vs stock, no heatsinks on either of those examples).
Then the latest from my currently over-done thermal pad debacle that I'm going to fix once the adhesive stuff gets here:

And that's at 2160MHz @ 1068mV with a +1000MHz VRAM clock, and despite the OCs, everything is running cooler, because of the additional heat dissipation & thermal pads on the backside conducting the heat to the backplate better.
 
I imagine once I finally get things nailed down on the back side, I might get brave & finally take the card apart, but dealing with cleaning up the puddy is not something I really want to do lol

After testing with the heatsinks in my backplate I found that the direct contact of the aluminium heatsink gets better heat transfer than with a thermal pad (I used high end 0.5mm 15k/w gelid thermal pad).

I won't move the case and the card is flat so I might keep it like this. Being careful not to scratch the backplate.

Do you get better results with the thermal pads between the heatsinks and the backplate?

I just leave them there. I though a high conductivity thermal pads will help a bit but nope.

Even now I touch the heatsinks without anything between them with my fingers and I feel how hot they are.

Is there any heat disipation difference between the black aluminum heatsinks and the silver ones?

The two options i have are both 40x40x20mm. Silver and black.

But I'm not sure if the material-color makes a difference.

The black ones are cheaper for some reason.

Black 13€. 5 pieces 40x40x20
Silver 12€. 2 pieces 4ox40x20

Cool I just ordered them.

I have 30mm one tall right now and for the heat are good but I can't install properly a fan on top because of my cpu cooler. I'll replace with this 20mm tall.

One question I spoke with you not long ago about fans for the radiator. The Noctuas 3000rpm gets too noisy for me (rattling sound) so I'm between the Noctua NF-A12X25 30€ each or Bionix p120 14€ each. They are both red and yellow lines in the picture I attach.

Which one do you recommend? Price is quite a lot but maybe it's worth it. I will leave them in the motherboard header at 85% or 90% constant.

That's really strange. I get opposite direction. Not by much but around 2°C same scenario and same ambient temp.

Tomorrow I'll test with the new heatsinks. 30mm tall vs 20mm tall. Lower than the ones I have now but I can put a fan on top of them.

The funny part comes when after curves in afterburner, temps, overclock, tweaking,...etc, i get 3 fps difference in games when stock than overclock (playing in 4k). In Port Royale there is difference but gaming not.

I expected more difference because vram and gpu core speeds are higher and also running cooler with the tweaks and heatsinks.

Hello, I have a strix oc 3090 that was running hot when overclocking/power modding. I ended up putting it on water using an ek block, but found it was still not overclocking well. It was decent, but would still throttle a bit from what it was set to. Ended up getting an MP5 works backplate cooler. The backplate was burn your hand hot after running, but when I added the MP5 works backplate cooler to the loop, it stabilized it. No more throttling. It also mines really well now even when I overclock the memory, because it has active cooling on both sides. That cooler can be used on any heat spreader type backplate. Just make sure backplate has thermal pads on all key components.