KickAssCop
I wanted to check with you guys as to what is best way to reduce memory junction temperatures. Before installing a hybrid kit my junction temperature maxed at 100 C but usually remained at 98 C while mining. In gaming it was more around the 84-86 C mark. I then installed the hybrid kit immaculately and every temperature was down including memory temperatures that remained the same but memory junction temperature ran at 110 C. I thought the hybrid kit was a bad idea so I took it off and reinstalled the stock HSF. This time I even changed a couple of pads for memory and ensured contact was good. I also re-did paste on the GPU w/ MX-4 and everything is better including my memory temperatures. GPU is down from 72 C to 65 C, memory is down from 73-78 C to 70-75 C. However, memory junction is again at 108-110 C. I am out of ideas of what to do next?
 
Any help on understanding which part of the card is running at 110 C during mining would help. During gaming memory junction is OK at 84-86 C mark and memory never tops 70 C. I have ordered the Thermalright 12.8 W pads but they are 2 weeks from arrival (I am not in USA). I am thinking if I should give it one more shot w/ the Arctic 1.5 mm 6 W pads or just let it run for another couple of weeks before I re-open the card. I have already done this 4 times (2 times w/ hybrid, 2 times w/ stock HSF). Nothing is bringing junction temps down to ~100 C mark. This causes fans to ramp up to 100% during mining which of course is annoying.

I don't actually know what the memory junction is. The hybrid kit should have been built more on par with the hybrid the Kingpin has. I took mine apart and the heat sink fits are dippy compared. Your lucky though, why not invest in a good waterblock?

KickAssCop
I have now done this 5 times over. Before touching the card from factory it would not go past 100 C. Now it is running 110 C. I have padded up everything, ensured it is touching the surfaces properly (by seeing the marks on the pads) but still the card is running at 110 C memory junction temps. I am at a loss of what to do next. 

If you had the hybrid kit on it and cooling on the back plate like see on this thread i would go with bad chip and in need of a rma. I would try tech support see if they can help before rma. Try dropping memory clock a little i don't go over 1200+ for mining and drop it to about 800+ when im gaming. Not good! Wish i had better ideas for ya. Unless you can try a full cover water block and some good cooling for the back.

Clovis559
 
I'm in the same boat as you. But the early benchmarks aren't a tell all. The 11 series reviews are delayed because intel said that it is going to release new microcode for the processor, which could make it better, worse, or the same? That's clearly out of most of our pay grades to even understand.
 
I would put a 10900k in a Z590 only because I looked the other day and I could only find a place to buy the Z490 Dark for $500... 
 
Then again I'm interested in some 11900k overclocks. I game at 4k, and it looks like you do too with that huge honkin monitor, so I often wouldn't be CPU limited. Clearly I don't plan to run the processor at stock, so what I am interested in is, how the 11900k overclocks compared to the 10900k in not stuff like Cinebench, but port Royal, gaming. It's a waiting game for sure.
 
Also, BHPhoto had a sale for 10900k for $400, but the board price is was stopped me. I'm hoping when the Z590 goes on sale there is an elite member price!

Well a primary reason for going 10900K or 10850K would be the extra cores for me.
 
Part of what I'm doing now is leveling multiple CSGO accounts at once, that's very CPU intensive because each instance uses 6-10% of the CPU - and with the 9900K 10 instances maxes out the CPU quite often which results in some of them lagging out... not a huge deal for now, but I think the 10900K/10850K would alleviate that issue... and the 11900K being only an 8-core part kind of makes it even less appealing.
Not to mention I could buy a 10900K or 10850K right now and get the swap done and over with if I go Z490 or with a Z590 that's already out.
 
The Z590 Dark may end up being problematic for me if it's got the same heatsink height as the Z490 Dark does above the GPU - that would block me from being able to put a fan on top of the Kingpin card, and that's a definite no no for me.
 
Right now I'm running this thing, while the loop reconstruction/CPU block swap takes place... and I'm scared even though I know it should be able to handle things at least at stock.  I went in to BIOS & set all the CPU power limits to 100W just to be on the safe side (the cooler has a rated maximum of ~120W TDP so I'm being safe safe) :
 

 
It's so tiny. lol  Despite it being that tiny, at idle, which granted is only drawing ~10W, the CPU is still idling in the mid to high 20s Celsius, and the highest load I've seen so far is high 50s C, with a 67W load.
 
I'm about to throw a decent load at it just to see how it handles it... but it's only on there for a few days at most, so no biggie either way.

Just gave this temporary CPU cooler a quick hit of CPU-only stress test in AIDA64 - it held at 99.3W load, downclocked the CPU a tad (which is what I want it to do) and CPU temps only got up to the upper 60s/almost 70C, so it's actually working pretty well I suppose.
I would run it fully uncapped just to test, but I have a feeling it would hit thermal max & throttle hard.
 
But, with a 100W load on a cooler this tiny, I'm impressed that it didn't shoot up in temps... granted, I only ran it for a minute, but it seemed like it was throttling in MHz to hold temps.
 
Guess I can be doubly safe & reboot then set the thermal max temp lower.

 
Welp, my derpness didn't check before using the 45 degree angle fittings on the radiator, I can't fit a fan up there in that spot - luckily there's fans on the other side, so I'm just going to have to forego that one when I put the pull-fans on it again.
 
This radiator is massive.  No other way to put it, just... massive.
 
Had some leaks initially from almost everywhere, dunno how that happened, but I got them all tightened and now I've had no signs of leakage for about 3 hours of running, so I'm running the system with it hooked up as shown in the picture... if it doesn't leak by the time I'm ready to get some sleep, I'll plan on mounting the block back on in the morning.
 
Turns out, the lighting plug in on both blocks is messed up somehow, or just plain doesn't work with the anything properly.  I can use the teeth provided with the extenders and the splitter (that CAME with the kit) to finagle it & make the lighting on the block come on, but it still won't respond to controls - Tried the new block, same thing, so I just left the old block in the loop.  I'm gonna figure out a way to do it so it'll at least light up, even if it's stuck on whatever color it comes up as when windows loads.
 
I tried the "Anti-cyclone" tube that came with the reservoir, while I was working bubbles out (The loop was assembled as you see it there, I did not assemble it prior to putting it in the system because I wanted the tubes proper length, so I cut & fitted them in the system then filled it to leak test this time) is absolutely worthless, so I took that out with a pair of needlenose pliers & put the EK emblem thingy back in, after draining the reservoir a lot so I could get to it without touching the liquid (too much).
 
It took pretty much an entire 1000ml of distilled water + coolant mixture this time.  I stored the previous red/orange coolant in a bottle (after washing said bottle out with distilled water pretty well) as backup fluid.  For now I'm going to run clear, I like the simplicity and how it adapts to the lighting etc.
Wish they had UV coolant dye, but alas.
 
I'm sure there's bubbles stuck in the top of the radiator, but if running the pump at full speed hasn't worked them out in over 3 hours of running, I don't think they're gonna come out unless I completely rotate my system so the radiator is at the bottom... which I can't do while it's on because of the power cord length.  But I'll probably have someone help me do that tomorrow with it off just to see what comes out - hopefully it's not too much because if I need more coolant I have to either make a whole 'nother batch, or use some of the red/orange stuff.
 
I know the right angles I'm using aren't ideal for maximum pressure, but they sure do make keeping the tubes as direct as possible a heck of a lot easier.  I can't imagine their effect on flow will be super detrimental overall, we'll see though.
 
I haven't eaten since right after I got home from picking the block up from the post office, time to grab some grub & relax.
 
I think once I get the block mounted it's going to look pretty nice overall.

 
Lookin' like I'll be poppin' the block back on the CPU after I wake up, cleared most of the bubbles out of the res by draining it partially, shaking the "EK" emblem thing off then refilling it from the bag again.

partially related
http s:// www .tomshardware.com/news/replacing-geforce-rtx-3090-thermal-pads-improves-temps-by-25c

I know they're not the same but the key point is maybe we could see benefits for doing the front side as well?

I ordered enough pads for front side but much appreciated on your how to/before & after findings as I'm hesitant to tear off the front.

KickAssCop
I definitely need to do the front side since backside is done already. Once my thermalright pads are in I will be able to post some results.

Please post pad thickness if you can so others know what to use, I'm very interested in doing the face-side of the card just don't want to get in to it until I know what size of pads I need exactly.

Well she's up & running & testing... Currently the maximum CPU core temp is 3C lower than before, but some of them are only peaking at 67-69C, so that's nicer than before I believe.
 
I'll post results once it's been running for at least half an hour, but I think the temps have already leveled off pretty well at 20 minutes in.  I don't think it's at all possible for this CPU to heatsoak even part of this radiator, at least not at stock, drawing about 156W, pretty sure this radiator couldn't care less.
 
There's some nasty lookin' stuff in the CPU Block that I wish I'd noticed before I assembled the loop again, or maybe it wasn't there before, but it's not enough of an obstruction to cause issues so I'm not going to mess with it until I'm adding the GPU later, then I'll diassemble the CPU block & get it cleaned out.
 
The lighting is "on" but stuck of course, that's the best I can do with EK's CPU block RGB plug being so wonky.
 
Tubes are somehow a bit longer than I would've preferred, but it doesn't look too bad:
 

 
wiring up top is a little messy because of the backplate & RAM fans, which I may get rid of the RAM fan, haven't decided yet.
 

Dabadger84

Clovis559
I did dream of this today O.o
 
 
 
It only overshoots the ram by like 2cm ... I really contemplating a Z590 / 11900k ... Then if I drilled 3 holes, this would mount right up... reach from VRM to VRM ... 

But do the internal cooling areas of the block actually cool what needs to be cooled?
 
Whilst this stress test runs, I suppose I'll grab some food... and temps have actually gone down despite ambient going up O_o I reset my temp readouts to see what it peaks at now.  I think the full cooling capacity of this monsterous radiator finally kicked in & is laughing at this sorry excuse for heat output at stock.
Wondering if a 10900K would be much different in terms of whether or no the temps would be the same.  Maybe a bit warmer I'd imagine because 2 more cores?

The internal cooling is actually pretty big area, but it's outdated as it's just smooth, no fins for additional surface area. I wish there was a modern version of this half the height with fins all over...
You can see it barely doesn't cover the VRMs on the outside.

Dabadger84

KickAssCop
I definitely need to do the front side since backside is done already. Once my thermalright pads are in I will be able to post some results.

Please post pad thickness if you can so others know what to use, I'm very interested in doing the face-side of the card just don't want to get in to it until I know what size of pads I need exactly.

I ordered 1.5 mm and 1 mm packs. I need to stack 1.5 and 1 mm for front ram, 1.5 mm x 2 for VRM and 1.5 mm for power phases since putty is gone. For backside I need to stack 1 mm x 2 to make it work.

Right now I have stacked 1.5 mm Arctic pads for all ram at the back w/ default pads that are squished. For front side VRAM I have 1.5 mm stacked against default pads. And also for 1 ram chip I have 1.5 mm stacked against the default pads. Since those are squishy, they press far enough to work just fine. Only my memory junction temps are 100-106 C which is because 3 sides of ram still need to be done. I could’ve done it with the Arctic pad but I am lazy and want to do it w/ thermal right instead due to better heat conductivity, I am also applying MX-4 between pad and copper to increase conductivity. Of course not doing it on ram chips as they can be broken off if paste sticks too hard.

Hope this helps.

Dabadger84
"Do you think you have enough EK fans?"
 

 
Maaaaaaaybe?
 
And yes, those are all in the system. lol

At what rpm are you running all those fans? How is the noise of your system?

EK asked for a video of what's going on with the lighting on the CPU block again, rather than be a smart arse & just send them a video of the CPU block plugged in to the header & doing nothing, I did a good amount of detail, showing a fan works on the header, but both CPU blocks either flicker and turn off, don't turn on at all, or stick on a random color, when plugged directly in to the motherboard.
 
I think I'm going to swap the CPU blocks anyway, the new one is clean, the one that's in the loop is uh... well if it were lit I'd take a picture & show you, but it's not so O_o
 


 
I'm guessing that's either residue or stuff from the radiator or the reservoir that I should have maybe flushed before installing?  I don't know... but yeah, I'm gonna swap them cuz why not... I'm 99% sure I could take it apart & clean that out, but why bother when I have a new one on hand.